Golf IV / Jetta IV :: Died While At Stop Light Now No Crank / Just Click
Aug 30, 2016
The other night I was coming home from work in my 1999.5 MKIV 2.0 Golf (Only about a 2 mile drive), once I got to a stop light my car just turned off. No loud bang, no sputter then die, just off (Like I turned the key). After trying to start the car with just a click, pushed it into a nearby parking lot with a friend steering. Once in the park lot we tried bump starting the car (it's a manual) with nothing the car sounding like it wanted to go but never did. The next night I pushed it back to my house, pulled the starter and the battery, and had both of them tested. The starter extended and spun up fine and the battery was in excellent shape.
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Removed battery cables and held together to clear ECU ... Re-attached and no crank not even a click ...
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Driving home on the highway today, not boosting, just regular driving. Car was acting fine, then just shut off. Tried starting, and it would crank, but not actually start.
Got it towed home. Scanned. Two codes: 01314, Engine Control Module. And again, 01314, Engine Control Module. Tried clearing codes, and it says "comm. error". Im using the VAG Check scanner from ECStuning, has always worked fine.
Thought it could be fuel pump, but the fuel pump primes when I open the door. I did notice that the throttle body refuses to align when I put the key in the second position, when it always has before. Radio works, all presets work. Unplugged the battery for a half hour, replugged, nothing. I'm leaving it unplugged overnight to see if that does anything.
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So I drove my car about a mile to a friend's house and when I went to start it back up 10 minutes later, I got no start and no crank. Just a single loud relay click from the engine compartment. Tow truck tried jumping it and then thwacking the starter solenoid to try and get it going. No dice. Battery seems all good.
Had some interesting things go wrong the day before which may be related to it. First, I was tracking my MPG and fuel trim on a highway trip and the trim and fuel consumption data just stopped coming in. Speedo and RPM data was still coming down the OBDII but I just assumed that my reader took a ****. Later that night I noticed that the lights on my climate control (the manual kind) went out. Tapped on it and it came back on, but only briefly. The bulb looks shot.
No engine strangeness on the drive over or earlier in the day. I drive it most every day. Has 215,000 miles on it.
I'm guessing either a short or bad starter. FWIW, I've also been experiencing the typical starter whine after starting. Was meaning to take it off and grease it. Not sure that has anything to do with it. I also tried rotating the crankshaft to make sure the engine wasn't locked up and it does turn, albeit not incredibly easily. It does have oil on the dipstick.
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I have a 2005 ford f250 6.0 I was driving back home from a interview and my truck died at a stop light it would crank but no start I tried replacing the stc fitting didn't work so the I replaced the ipr still didn't work bought a new hpop still didn't work I'm lost at this point I have low pressure oil pump is working new icp, what is going on?
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My jetta failed to start for me at a local grocery store. It would crank super slow once or twice then stop. Tried push starting it to no avail. Got it towed home, and thought to try a new battery, figuring that the alternator might be bad. Got a new battery yesterday (still under warranty), threw it in the car, and gave it a shot. It turned over slow 4-5 times then stopped.
I have been having the ever-annoying shifter rod rattle for a while, and it recently got much more obnoxious. I am beginning to think that maybe the more obnoxiousness was my timing chain though. It sounded like marbles, but the noise sounded like it was coming from the intake, not the side of the motor. Also, not sure if this matters but the battery terminals got super hot after I tried to start it last. What to check? Electrical short? Timing off? Something from the shifter rod fell into the motor? Some other strange issue?
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I recently purchased a 01 1.8t GTi with a blown timing belt. I got the car rebuilt, did all maintenance work like brakes , hub/bearings, bushings, oil and all the good stuff that goes into getting the car back up and running. I've finally started driving it and I'm having a weird issue.
Yesterday , I stopped at a red light and the car randomly died on me. Pushed it off the road and checked things out but I couldn't see if there was anything wrong but about 10 minutes later , I was able to restart the car and drive home. Now today , on my way home from work the car starts back firing and I lost all power and rolled to the side of the road where he car would just continue to crank. I was able to get it restarted but it cut out again a couple seconds after. I don't have my code scanner but I know I do have one lean code for something. Maybe cause I have a leak between turbo and dp. I don't have access to vagcom unfortunately..
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My Daughters jetta will at time no start after it has been locked then unlocked. She told me that if the car doesn't beep when locked she sometimes has the problem.
The dash will light but no crank at all. Could this be an alarm issue or something else? I
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I have a volkswagen jetta glx vr6.Today my key wont turn (unable to crank engine) and the car won't detect my key (no remote entry/lock function).I've detached the battery.
Plugging the batter back and keeping the key in:
1. Off position causes the "Electronic Immobilzer" light to blink.
2. When in on position. no "electronic immoblizer light comes on.
3. In anycase I can't get the ignition to work.
My engine check/airbag lights are also on and my radio/ac doesn't work. Also the electronic controls for rear view mirrors don't work. Half of the tail (exaust) pipe rusted and has fallen off.On the funny sideI asked the guy at VW to appraise my jetta for a trade and he said it would be $500 for the car !! ONLY After the company official tested the car this won't start...the sales person left, since it was 6PM on Friday. I was left alone and had no option other than to leave my car at Pugi VW showroom and ask a friend for a ride...Long story.
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stop oil pressure light will come on at 1800 to 2000 rmp i just changed the oil to full synthetic now i see the oil light come on at 3000 rpm i changed the oil pump and sending unit and the car sounds good no rattles what could be the problem ?? its been doing this for 2 years now
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I have an 03 vw Jetta 1.8t with around 100,000 miles and I recently ran into a problem with the car jolting, or slipping when I get on it hard. And also when I'm sitting at a stop light it will jerk forward like it wants to go. I've tried a few things like cv axels and some other things but I'm just hoping it's not the tranny.
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I've got some problems going on with my 2001 VR6 Jetta. I was driving home from my way to work this evening and all of a sudden the indicator light came on and told me to stop and check the coolant level. Within about three minutes the car was already up to about 200. I pulled over to a gas station and the coolant reservoir was completely empty. So I began to pour coolant in the reservoir and fill it up I notice I was pouring a lot of coolant so I went to the hood looked on the driver side below the bumper and water/cool was pouring out everywhere. I inspected as many radiator hoses as I could and did not find any cracks. The water seem to be pouring out from around the thermostat housing. My question would be since I don't know whole lot about cars would they crack thermostat housing because you need to have this problem?
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This morning I went to my car started it for 10 seconds the light on my dash said stop and to check coolant, I got a ride to get some coolant filled it up, drove to work than drove home after work and the coolant level is at the same place I filled it up as this morning. What happend that it was gone last night than fine today? 03 vw gti vr6 24v ....
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2002 1.8t Jetta Wagon with the automatic transmission. They've had it for about a week now and we've been trying to iron a few problems out. Mostly cosmetic until the last couple days.
The coil pack harness is trash. I bypassed a couple of the extreme cracked wires in attempt to keep it going until the new one comes in hopefully at the end of this week. We put new plugs in but only afterward did we find out that NGK or VW is the way to go. We put autolite iridiums in.
New fuel filter, however, the line connecting the tank to the filter will not click into place completely. We are able to start/drive the car without the line popping off from the pressure, but you just have to tug on it with your hand to get it off, no need to depress the clip.
The car seems to run better cold. Once it is warmed up and you've been driving around town for 10-15 minutes is when the shuddering starts. It ONLY dies when in Drive or Reverse while at a complete stop. The idle drops down to 400 rpm or so, you can't rev the motor/drive. Sometimes it will come back up to normal and you can go, sometimes it will go back and forth but you can't get any power to the wheels. Sometimes it will drop the RPMs and shudder at 400 for a couple seconds then just die. It always starts right up without hesitation. In park/neutral the idle is still slightly erratic, occasionally bumping up to around 1300 rpms for a second or two then back to around 900 or so.
When we bought the car, we test drove it and it was fine. Of course that is how it works out. They drove the car for about a week. In that time, it shuddered and died once, and would occasionally shudder at a stop light but there was no issue driving it or loss of power when accelerating.
What I'm wondering is if we should go ahead and order the R8 coil pack and spark plug kit from HSTuning. I'm hoping that the harness fixes the issue, but if it could be cheap spark plugs or a coil pack going out, I'd like to get it all done at once. My main concern is the possibility that it could be the transmission. The symptoms feel like loss of power, not slipping, but still, I'm worried that maybe it could be the issue.
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I own a 1998 Volvo S70 with a turbo. As I was driving the other day I shifted the car from 4-5 gear. After I had the car in 5 gear, it chugged forward. I pulled to the stop light and the car stalled. It started again and I made it home. I checked the fluids and they were low so I added oil and power steering. It drove fine for the rest of the day until later in the evening when it chugged again after shifting. I then drove it the next day and the car completely died at the stop light. I couldn't restart it. It would turn but wouldn't stay on. There was also a strange smell coming from the engine after trying to start it again. Ive been told possible fuel pump or maybe the catalytic converter because of the smell..
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Lately I've been hearing a constant click from what seems to be my chains side of the motor. Tensioners and chains were said to be done around 123k. After I've been driving it for a few minutes I hear the click. I thought it was the trans/ throw out berrying but when i push the clutch in and have it in gear i can still hear the click. It is not rapid like a tensioner like a tick tick tick, its like tick......tick......tick, could this be my top end of my block not receiving enough oil? I have a cracked oil pan, doesn't leak that often but i feel as if that is the source of the problem. Also I feel as if i lose power once i hit about 4300-4400 RPMs could that be because of low oil pressure?
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My problem is my 6 CL died going down the road I got to stop light & she quitly died. I got it started after a few tries & made it to BK, kept trying to start sounded like choked for gas. Hour later starts goes 1/2 mil dies call towtrk. Changed fuel pump(not so bad) fired her up, first couple times ran a sec. and died.
3rd time a charm it started & idled (a lttl ruf) for 20 min.& wife takes it to gas station shut off & restarted no problem & back home. 1 hr later I get in to run an errand & it dies I push it hm pop hood seems awfully hot. Is there a way to test the CPS unit?
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My 1999 GLS Wagon died on me at a stop light. The motor turns but won't start. Replaced fuel pump, filter, fuse, and relay on advice from a few friends. Still no go. Another friend recommended I check the crank sensor.
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I was at a stop light. The light turned green and I let off the brake. Just then the car died while I was in drive. I couldn't put it in park. I was a little panicky. It broke down on a major road in morning traffic. I tried starting the car. Nothing. I think I managed to move the shifter into neutral and tried starting the car again. Not a problem this time. Maybe a few minutes had lapsed. It bothers me of course because I've only made 4 payments on it and I'm planning on a trip out of town this weekend. After I dropped my son off I made it home without incident. What caused this?
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About 2 weeks ago, my jetta decided it didn't want to start. Was getting symptoms of a bad ignition switch prior to this. Could get it to start one by jiggling the key. Replaced the ignition switch and now could hear the starter relay click but still no start. Yesterday, installed a reman starter and got it to start once. Could here the solenoid click when trying to start. Was reading on here or somewhere that it my be my power control relay, so took the top off to look at it and it was fine. Battery was down about 100 amps so it was replaced and still no start. Going to go see if my vag com will talk to to the ecu. Thinking about pulling the starter out and having it tested.
MK2 are so much easier.
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2001 1.5 Accent. It has not been starting consistently for the last few weeks. Ive had to use the jump box on it a few times and that worked.
The other day (cold day!) it died at the stoplight after driving for about 20 mins. It made a grinding crunch sound from under the hood as it died. After several attempts on jump box it fired up and ran again for about 15 seconds and died and made sound again.
This repeated itself a few times before I got it towed home.
I removed alternator and it tested good (PASS) at two parts stores...testing 3 times each.
Battery has about 14 volts at the posts without having charged it after event.
What would cause the car to die and make the awful sound? And why would it appear to need a jump start?
I was thinking alternator but.....
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