Golf IV / Jetta IV :: Deleting EVAP System?
Dec 23, 2015
I'm trying to delete the EVAP system on my 24v to clean up the bay. I tested the purge valve and it comes up as 25ohms so i was wondering if I could remove it and wire in a resistor to the connector in order to trick the car into thinking that it was still there.
Next question is in the picture listed below, would i be able to cap off # 11 and where the lines go into the intake manifold or would i have to delete the hoses going to #10 and #13 as well?
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It all started with a fuel cap loose light (it wasn't) after a day or two the MIL came on and got this code I reset it but I'm sure it'll come back since there's probably a real leak. What can I check myself to find this leak?
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I have text message alert set up, so when they come in it pops up on screen and I can read it or have it read to me...... But after reading is there a way to delete messages from the Info system ?
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Got a CEL tonight while driving. Originally I was driving and the light came on saying that my gas cap was loose. I corrected the problem when I got home and tightened again. The light stayed on however. I ran a scan with the OBDII and it gave me a code for EVAP- Very Small Leak .
I was reading around and some people suggested the MAF. Which would make sense because I recently had all of that stuff off and gave the engine a deep cleaning while it was exposed. I just don't see how the MAF could relate to the code my car is pushing?
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I just replaced my evap box along with most everything connected to it (had some bad servos and replaced other stuff for good measure). AC works great now, but the heater still doesn't work. I've had this car 4 years and the heater has never worked. When I took the box apart, the doors were naked (no foam). Heater core looked ok, but thought it would be stupid not to replace it while I was there.
So, I was hoping this may cure my heater issue, but was really only looking to get the AC going. So, the car had been running for 30-45 minutes and while the heater was on, I went to check the heater core hoses, the pass side hose was hot, the driver's side wasn't. Driver's side goes to axillary pump and bottom of coolant reservoir. Not too long ago, I replaced the mechanical pump and t-stat along with other stuff (crack pipe, etc.). Thought I'd get everything while I had the system drained. Didn't work then, either.
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so my girls car is throwing an evap code (P0442) small leak detected. I bought a new oem gas cap and replaced the purge valve solenoid under the hood. that didn't work, CEL still comes on about 100mi after clearing the code.
I have checked the rubber hoses that were attached to the purge valve solenoid when i replaced it and they are fresh, no dry rot or cracks that i can see. The hose on one side goes to a hard line that runs under the car to the back, the hose on the other side of the solenoid runs under the intake to the throttle body. That hose was fine as well. Connections were tight and i even put better clamps on the hose ends that attach to the solenoid. So I have ruled out that portion of the system (under the hood).
I also removed the rear seat to access the fuel pump. All those connections seem nice and tight, I don't smell any strong gas fumes indicating a leak so i don't think the fuel pump gasket is the problem either. Finally, i checked out the hard lines running under the car front to back and I see no apparent or obvious damage. I assume my next step is to pull off the rear passenger wheel well liner and asses the charcoal canister and the LDP connections, correct??
The last thing I will mention is, Idid notice the 2 fuel lines that attach to the fuel regulator are in pretty rough shape, however not leaking any fuel. Are both of these lines actual liquid fuel lines? I am thinking one of them is a vapor return which may be part of the EVAP system. If it's dry-rotted and leaking vapors could that be the culprit??
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I have a 2005 1.8 TJetta GLI owned for about 2 months now. Gas cap warning pops up then goes away when I turn off the car then check engine light comes on. I've change the gas cap to new oem one changed the purge valve [URL] .... After a couple of weeks same issues again brought it to my mechanic he ran a leak detector and told me that there are Evap leaks. I read somewhere that I might need a need charcoal canister and a fuel tank.
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Okay, so a few weeks ago, my tire blew out on the freeway. Of course my spare wasn't in there and when I got one I couldn't get the lugs loosened. My 4way was too big on all sides. It was late, I am a single mother of two young kids so I had no choice but to drive slowly to get it off the freeway. The next morning I came back fully prepared, got my car in to get a new tire. I have been driving with ONE code for my CEL, but at the shop (where I use to work) I used the scanner and it threw 5 codes.
P0300 Random misfire
P0442 Small EVAP leak detected (this one was already there)
P0420 Catalyst system below threshold bank 1
P0301 Misfire cyl 1
P0303 Misfire cyl 3
My beautiful love is an 02 Jetta 2.0 4 Cyl. Now, since 4 of these codes popped up AFTER my first blowout (I turn 30 next month, knock on wood)
Did driving my car at 5 mph about a mile and a half (everywhere up until the gas station was NO PARKING) do something to my car? All of a sudden, any in town driving ESP IDLING makes my check engine light blink and my car has no power I just have to pull over wherever I am. I checked the car out myself on the side of the road and my cat was glowing. After this I do not drive my car.
So, what should I do. I did a tune up. Should I replace the 02 sensors then the cat?
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I have always on my vcds this fault 17881 - EVAP Leak Detection Pump: Open Circuit P1473, what is this? I have golf iv 1.8t ...What is this and what problem to my car. I have got this fault more than one year....
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Im wanting to delete my abs brake system in my f150 2002 2wd all disc brakes.
I have to change the module with some kinda valve? and turn off the Abs in a tune?
I know the basics of a brake system, but im lost in the abs stuff.
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Last week I got a hole in my lower heater coolant line and I did a quick fix and added G12 to get the car home but I got to thinking, the way I'm using this car now, I'm not so sure I need the heater.
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So, I have a 2009 IV, and it has about 60,000 miles on it. It's still has it's Toyota Certified warranty.
The check engine light has been going on and off for about 3 months. I hooked up my scan tool, and it says there were a bunch of codes popping up for the evap system. I did the obvious repair and replaced the gas cap (with a Toyota cap), and that worked for a few weeks, but the light came on again.
Since it's under warranty, I took it to the dealer and it turns out the vaccum switch (or maybe pump) for the charcoal canister was bad.
Struck me as a rather strange thing to go bad on a relatively newer Prius.
Anyway, had the water pump recall done while it was there, and hopefully all is good now.
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Just found out I have a problem with my evap system (97 Grand Prix GTP). My SES light comes on intermittently. Not sure what the number of the code is, but my mechanic said it was because the vacuum was too strong (not a leak). He said could be from a kink or clogged hose. What this could be? Are the hoses and canister easily accessible for me to check?
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2003 passat GLS stock w/ 1.8T, MIL comes on after full tank drops to about 3/4 full. Code 16826 will clear but keeps coming back, always when the tank is about 3/4. I have replaced gas cap but, no luck. Also, sometimes after filling the tank the light goes off by it's self.
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2001 X, Limited, 6.8L
Recently, when i turn my X completely off and remove the key, I hear something that sounds like it runs on and off. I popped the hood and it sounded like it was coming from the EVAP canister. It will engage several times, even while my vehicle is off. I am not sure if this problem is related but sometimes when I turn my key off and remove it, my air will still be running if the switch for the air isn't turned off. Could this be related and point to a bad ignition switch? Or is this a coincidence and my ignition switch is bad along with a whole other string of problems within my EVAP system?
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Check engine light emissions evap system code comes up when the system is scanned what could be problem? 1998 chevrolet prizm...
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I have a failure on the evap system of my 2002 Escape, and need the proper testing procedure for this particular purge valve. I was able to fix the purge valve on my 2013 Explorer, with no issue, but the Escape has a different type and I'm not sure I'm testing it properly. I want to verify the purge valve is working properly instead of just throwing parts into it. I know it is likely either the valve or the gas cap, but it could be something other than those two items, so I want to get the simple stuff checked out first.
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My 1997 aerostar 3.0 6 cylinder, throwing code p1443 for the evap system. What should I be looking for?
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i have a b.5.5 V6 4motion and My check engine stays on the majority of the time. I've had a tech check the code and he tells me its my Evap system. The same tech told me that it was actually pretty useless to repair the problem unless the check engine light bothers me..
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I have a 2006 Hyundai Azera that is coming up with the error code P2422. I have figured out that the code relates to the EVAP system. I have cleared the code a few times but it always comes back within a few kilometers. Also I have started to notice at some gas stations that the gas stops pumping around every $5 i put in the tank. This only happens at some gas stations but not all that i go to.
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2009, 89K miles ... As title states, check engine light came on today and after the codes were pulled, I got P0496. It was referred to as "Large EVAP system detected". I'm guessing this may have something to do with the fuel vapor management system but not sure what's a sure bet to check.
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