Golf IV / Jetta IV :: Crunching Noise When Switching Off Ignition
May 14, 2014
I bought a mk iv 2.0 GTi last week and twice now I've heard a sound what i can only describe as someone stamping on an empty can after switching off the ignition and opening the driver side door.
The sound, sounds like it comes from under the bonnet.
The car runs sweet engine is all clean sounds ok no other knocks or bangs.
What could be causing this? It seems to happen after the engine is warm and I've given it some throttle but only when the engine has just been turned off.
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A grinding/crunching noise recently started happening to my 2001 vw vr6 12v.seems to be coming from the front of the car but only when i accelerate. I hear it through all the gears and am a little concerned as winter is approaching.
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What I have happening is clunking that can be felt in the pedals and dead pedal at random time. Bad vibration can be felt through the cabin but this is hard to quantify since I already had VF mounts, I'm lowered on PSS9's, have camber plates, etc etc. It just seems to me that the vibration has gotten worse than the "normal" vibration these mods would introduce. Whirring/rotational noise that comes and goes and seems to be right in front of the the driver's seat. It also sometimes seems to go away if I am cruising down the road and I push the clutch in.
Crunching noise (almost like a CV joint which is shot) but this noise appears randomly at various speeds and when driving straight. All of this is pointing me more and more towards a tranny problem which is not what I want to hear but I also don't want to keep driving my car without knowing what is wrong with it. One note is I did install the trans shim, replaced black cap on end of trans in Feb and didn't notice anything out of the ordinary at that time
I have pulled the driver's axle 3 times in the last month and can find nothing wrong with it. I have pulled the suspension apart on the entire front end and found/see nothing. I have pulled, twisted, shaken, etc everything looking for bad or worn parts/bushings and can find nothing.
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i am trying to wire a cooling mist W/M kit, and it says to connect the com terminal to the ignition "KEY ON POWER". which i assume is the wire that powers on when they key is inserted into the car.
ive searched and i cant seem to find info related to the key on power that's referenced in the instructions.
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2003 Jetta, has a bad clutch so has been sitting for about 6 months. Unfortunately, it is not the most water tight car, so it is a little humid/damp inside. Here's the issue, put the key in, try to turn it, won't budge. Shot some lock ease in, still no turn. What to try next?
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I am having a little issue with the ignition in my car. I had the typical no headlights/wipers/heater etc. so I ordered up a new ignition switch and when I went to replace it, the switch fit perfectly and had the correct part number but when I put my key in to try and start the car I couldn't even turn the key but when I put the old switch back in it would turn just fine. Also when I removed the old switch I noticed the red wire going to the switch was slightly burnt right at the terminal.
Here is the basic procedure I did:
-Unhook negative battery cable
-remove lower dash/ center console
-remove switch
-install new switch
Whats this little metal piece? I did not see that when I did mine...
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OK, here's the update so far.
- new battery
- all fuses fine in panel, all fuses fine on battery pack.
- am getting power to trigger switch upon engine crank (tested w lamp and volt meter).
- did the 'mechanics tap' on the starter motor body
Still no crank when key is turned, instrument panel/gauges light up as normal
So am I right in thinking that I've narrowed the problems down to:
1) bad solenoid
2) bad starter
3) bad connection between battery and starter
or have I missed something?
Also, is there a way to directly test the starter (or indirectly test the solenoid) by applying power to the starter?
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Just got this car it's 2001 gti turbo. The guy said that the key fob was back. But I changed the starter and still no luck. It had all new plugs and I went to check for spark and there was no spark or fuel. So then I got a new crankshaft sensor and still no luck. I haven't gotten the chance to check for spark yet. And now those lights and beeping keep happening even without the key In the ignition. Can it be the ignition switch or something worse?
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One night i get into my car its a 2002 mk4 golf 2.0 engine and i turn my key to start it and i turn the key all the way and i am getting no sound at all no clicking or even the engine trying to start. the key just turns all the way and thats it my stereo turns on and my interior lights turn on but my headlights dont turn on and my cluster gauges needles dont move at all . its like my ignition is not sending any signal to the engine or my cluster gauges. the cluster lights work but that it. when i turn the key to start i am getting nothing . What this could be?
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Went to start my car today but couldn't move my steering wheel at all??
Ignition still works and i can turn my keys but not the wheel?
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2001 Golf with A/T. 130,000 miles. Daughter went to turn key, heard a "snap" sound, car wouldn't start...no "click" from any electrical contact, starter apparently not getting any "juice". key now turns in switch too easily...can't feel the usually resistance when turning key. Key fob works, steering wheel turnable, can move trans lever out of "Park" into all positions with foot on brake. Broken key cylinder, or some link to ignition switch? Car at repair shop, waiting it's turn.
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So I have a 2010 jetta 2.5 and my key is stuck in the ignition has been for a couple weeks also don't know if it's related but when I start the car I can pull the shifter out of park without pressing shifter button just have to press brake and after I shut the car off if I take it out of park and put it in gear it just freely rolls only stops if it's in park. NOT A DSG
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I was putting my rear driver window up yesterday, and I hear a crunching noise.....it struggled, but I was able to get it back up. What should I do? I'm thinking it's the regulator, or a clip came off of the window, etc.
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I've had my '97 Silly-Car since 2000 and it's been the best vehicle I have owned. I've been keeping up on the basic maintenance and what-not as well (getting a new motor mount and the PS pump released soon). I'm up to about 278K and aside from burning more oil (approx 1.5 qts after a 1300 mile trip - time for rebuild?/toss?), it's running beautifully. Anyhow, recently I got in, started up, shifted into Drive and heard a crunching noise.
I've talked with the mechanic dude (about 20 yrs as a 'Toyota dealership mechanic, then went off on his own) up the road I take my car to all the time and he says he's never had to replace one of those.
I've looked around here and there to try to figure out what exactly to get to replace it, but I'm not really sure what the piece is called. I do know that 'plastic gear selector cover things' does not come up with any matches lol. Perhaps it's just a part of a whole 'assembly' I have to get, or maybe just get a blank piece of thin black plastic and trace out a new one *shrugs*. I'm just kinda not wanting to accidentally drop anything (coins that get tossed in the ashtray lol) down in there.
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As the title suggests, I am getting a crunching noise when I turn left on my 2013 Passat SE. It sometimes occurs when turning right also, but doesn't happen as often as turning left. Hard to describe it any other way. What could be causing this noise?
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I bought a used 2013 Santa Fe Sport 2.0T Limited in August from a Hyundai dealership near Vancouver, BC. The vehicle had fairly high mileage (95K) but had been well-cared for and I got it for a fair price.
After a few days I noticed there was a "crunching" noise coming from the rear driver's side quarter panel area when going over the u/g parking ramp into my condo. The rear seats also jiggle and rattle at moderate speeds. Didn't really notice either on my test drive before buying it, as I just went over smooth roads.
I searched this forum and found some good leads, such as the inner quarter panel being loose, rear trailing arm issues, or perhaps some faulty welds. I printed out this info. reported by other owners and brought it to the dealership.
As kind of expected, the technician each time has said he couldn't hear anything unusual. (selective hearing?) The suspension system is supposedly sound.
My friends and family members all hear this creak (under the right conditions when the rear wheels are at uneven heights)...it's not my imagination. I've taken out the styrofoam cargo support and nothing changed.
I had a loaner 2015 Santa Fe and there was no such noise.
The rear seat jiggle is also irritating. I've experimented with putting the seat backs at different angles and nothing really works.
The vehicle has about 500KM left on its 100,000KM warranty.
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I've been trying to chase down a creaking noise from what I think is the front passenger side for about a month now -- it happens when I accelerate and the weight of the car (2005 mercury mariner) shifts. It's mostly a creak but almost a knocking/crunching sound that seems to correspond to when I give it gas.
I recently got my sway bar links and tie rod ends replaced, so I could have sworn it was a bushing on the control arm. Spraying silicone grease doesn't do anything, and last night I noticed what I think is the same noise happen when I shift from park to drive.
Could this be a worn motor mount? I'd rather replace that on my own than have to bring it in and get a new control arm installed so I can get a realignment.
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My 2007 Prius, 181189 miles, made a crunching sound when I left the freeway this am while stopping. No shaking, vibration or noises while going at speed.
When first accelerating I hear a crunch then clicking. This happened at each stop until I parked. Sounds fine when going in reverse.
I am at work and am wondering if I need a tow truck or try to drive 75 miles home tonight?
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2008 Prius with 105k miles was throwing code (P0A92) and had accompanying grinding/crunching noise. Intermittently, The HV battery would drain down and the car would have difficulty starting. The car was stranded in the middle of a 2,000-mile trip in October after extended use of the A/C, and was left at a friend's house until February.
After weeks of arguments with local Toyota dealerships, who refused to listen to Toyota's national service representatives and demanded that we purchase a replacement battery for $3,000, I purchased and installed a HybridAutomotive grid charger. The Prius started and drove, but lost power about 10 miles into the drive back. Being in a hurry, we resolved to return with a trailer and tow the car back to my shop.
A replacement, low-miles transmission was installed per directions in the FSM. There was some trouble getting the inverter pump to bleed (I ended up taking off the return hose & pouring coolant backwards through the pump), and I had to swap in a spare 12v battery due to the old one being discharged. The car showed codes C0205 and C0200 (left front wheel speed sensor signal malfunction, right front wheel speed sensor signal malfunction), but no other issues.
About two weeks and 3,000 miles into the transmission swap, the battery I'd swapped in would no longer fire up the computer. A test showed the battery I'd swapped in (which I purchased in 2005) was only outputting 300 CCAs (out of a rated ~1,000). The Prius accessory battery was charged and reinstalled. The battery started the car, but would often need to be charged overnight in order to start the car (even though it would pass voltage and CCA tests). When the car won't start, attempting to jump it off another car doesn't work, and the battery had given readings as low as 10.5 volts, indicating a bad cell.
Yesterday, I had the car's owner run the in-car test procedure. Voltage was 12.3 without load, 12.0 with load. The third test could not be completed because the car shuts down. As the voltages were slightly low, the battery was replaced under warranty, but the car is exhibiting the same symptoms with the new battery. I'm now suspecting a bad inverter and/or failed inverter pump.
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So recently my car has been making almost a crunching noise in the front end of my car usually pulling out of the driveway or hitting any type of bump. But it doesn't seem to always happen. It's a louder crunch when it's colder out. It almost sounds like a rusty door being closed/opened rather then a crunch. My car has just about 77k on it and this is the only issue I have with it.
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I have a 2001 Elantra GLS. After reading info on the forums it sounds like my crunching/clunking noise when I go over bumps would most likely be the upper control arm. Is this the only control arm?
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