The cruise worked perfect before I lowered the car and now it works occasionally.. It was on most of the 10 hour drive to this part of Florida and around town it's worked but has started to act up a bit again now.. Sometimes the cruise light will flash and then won't work but other times it's fine any input? The car is an otherwise stock AWP at 107k miles..
View 2 RepliesHad the common problem of ARB rubbing the drive shaft after I lowered an extra 15mm - It didn't rub before I went this extra 15mm. I got adjustable drop links on and they also didn't work. I basically told the garage to sort it out and they put standard drop links back on (not genuine) and also new wishbones because I needed them. Got my car back and the rubbing was even worse. So I raised it back up the 15mm, to where it was before the rubbing started, yet it's still rubbing like crazy. I'm wondering if the new wishbones may be causing this because of new bushings or something and it all being tighter. And also what am I supposed to do? I shouldn't have to buy a whiteline ARB because it wasn't rubbing at this ride height before the wishbones and drop links were changed.
To summarize:
>Lowered car extra 15mm, rubbing started
>Drop links and wishbones changed, rubbing is worse
>Raised back to the point where rubbing started and still rubbing just as badly.
03 Jetta. The cruise has not been working. Turning cruise on and off works fine as light comes on on dash. Brake pedal switch was replace about a year ago, and I don't think that is the problem because when this was the car would actually go into limp mode.
Just checked the clutch pedal switch by jumping the plug (This was the blue switch lower on the pedal), and still no cruise function. I'm really leaning toward it being the "set" switch/button on the steering wheel as this just feels kinda broken. Did I test the clutch pedal switch correctly? Any other reason the cruise would stop working?
I am proud new owner of a 03 Mk4 Bora GLI. I have some issues that I could use a hand with. My symptoms are as follows:
1. Speedometer stopped working.
2. Fuel gauge goes on the fritz (rapidly declines) when parked on an incline or going around corners.
3. Cruise control does not work. "Cruise" light come on the dash but the set/reset button on the stalk does nothing.
Note: All fuses are in tact.
I have a 2004 GLI that I just completed the slave cylinder on, after i got everything back together my driver side axle is now rubbing really bad on the sway bar where it connects to the endlinks. What could be wrong?
View 2 RepliesWhile driving on the highway I lowered my seat. Once it got to the lowest setting, I heard something sort of like a snap, and it threw an airbag light, so I raised the seat back up. I'm new to VW, but I know there's lots of possibilities for the light.
2000 Jetta GLS
04 Jetta GLI 1.8T... Just picked this girl up last week and I love it. Super smooth ride and shifts cleaner than any car I've driven and owned.
Originally wanted a TDI, but I couldn't resist this deal that fell in up my lap. Occasionally the EPC light comes on and goes away. Working on diagnosing it in the mean time...
I've searched the other "screaming" problems but they don't seem to fit, they're either when starting and/or cold, or when flooring it.
My car screams occasionally after I start it. Get in, crank car, let go of key, good beat of pause, and then SCREAM! It's fairly loud. Doesn't do it every time, does it whether hot or cold. Once or twice it screamed again after I had backed up and stopped (no it's not the brakes, they do squeal but it's a different sound).
While I'm in the engine troubleshooting the AC system, I figured I may as well get into a few other issues I've noticed.
I have a stock 1.8T and my turbo feels like it's surging occasionally. A few months ago my diverter valve started making the "blow off sound" when I shifted (manual transmission).
Is it possible for a faulty diverter valve to dump the boost overboard and cause the turbo, and engine hp, to surge? It almost feels like I let my foot off the gas for a second or two (i.e., engine power is very peaky).
A second thing that comes to mind is a clogged fuel filter. I know VW does not recommend ever changing it so it's never been done. Is this a possibility as well?
Air filter is clean, by the way. There's a K&N washable one in the stock air box and I can see daylight through it so it's not too dirty.
My car is stored outside rather than in a garage in winter. I do notice bogging or "gargled" acceleration maybe 4/10 on occasional days and sometimes the engine light will come once this happens and then other times it doesn't come on when it occurs. Engine light usually comes on rarely but when it does, it's when the bogging is really bad.
Question is what would be the most cost effective way to solve or find out what the issue is? And/ or, what would you think the underlying issue would be for starters? Also, does my year car have a MAF sensor? BTW the cabin filter and air filter were just changed a few months ago but unsure if this would include the shop cleaning the MAF if I do in fact have one.
So I just noticed now that my car is popping slightly at idle occasionally...It doesn't do it all the time and the idle is kinda lumpy but always holds at 800-900. Sometimes it drops a bit lower.
Also when starting it up in the morning, or when the engine is cold it doesnt rev up to 1500rpms it just starts and immediately drops to 800-900??
When I press on the gas and keep the pedal at one spot, say 2000rpms, it slowly drops down to 1500??
Got a 2001 Jetta 2L automatic 200k miles with gremlins. possibly multiple unrelated problems. First problem that presented is that the transmission will occasionally not shift into 4th gear. I discovered that if I stop the engine, then restart it, it will again return to normal operation, hence the thought that it is electrical. After a year or so of this, second problem pops up: the engine will die while the car is driving, or some times idling at a light. I've also noticed that the interior lights flicker somewhat in intensity when on and the engine is operating, so there could definitely be a grounding issue somewhere. I have heard that the ECU/ECM connectors could become corroded, but haven't yet dug into it to look. Any guesses as to where to begin?
View 2 RepliesMkIV 2.0 ... My 4th cylinder will occasionally misfire if I release the clutch at too high of a rev. It is intermittent but happens if I do a burn out or something. How to fix this other then stop doing burn outs and such.
View 2 Replies2002 1.8t Jetta Wagon with the automatic transmission. They've had it for about a week now and we've been trying to iron a few problems out. Mostly cosmetic until the last couple days.
The coil pack harness is trash. I bypassed a couple of the extreme cracked wires in attempt to keep it going until the new one comes in hopefully at the end of this week. We put new plugs in but only afterward did we find out that NGK or VW is the way to go. We put autolite iridiums in.
New fuel filter, however, the line connecting the tank to the filter will not click into place completely. We are able to start/drive the car without the line popping off from the pressure, but you just have to tug on it with your hand to get it off, no need to depress the clip.
The car seems to run better cold. Once it is warmed up and you've been driving around town for 10-15 minutes is when the shuddering starts. It ONLY dies when in Drive or Reverse while at a complete stop. The idle drops down to 400 rpm or so, you can't rev the motor/drive. Sometimes it will come back up to normal and you can go, sometimes it will go back and forth but you can't get any power to the wheels. Sometimes it will drop the RPMs and shudder at 400 for a couple seconds then just die. It always starts right up without hesitation. In park/neutral the idle is still slightly erratic, occasionally bumping up to around 1300 rpms for a second or two then back to around 900 or so.
When we bought the car, we test drove it and it was fine. Of course that is how it works out. They drove the car for about a week. In that time, it shuddered and died once, and would occasionally shudder at a stop light but there was no issue driving it or loss of power when accelerating.
What I'm wondering is if we should go ahead and order the R8 coil pack and spark plug kit from HSTuning. I'm hoping that the harness fixes the issue, but if it could be cheap spark plugs or a coil pack going out, I'd like to get it all done at once. My main concern is the possibility that it could be the transmission. The symptoms feel like loss of power, not slipping, but still, I'm worried that maybe it could be the issue.
Is it plug and play. My cruise control hasn't work. Numbers look right on vag and switches/fuses are all good. So I am left to assume its the stalk.
View 2 RepliesHaving issue where the set- on there cruise control doesn't work? I can set the initial speed, and increase it with res+ but I can't decrease the speed. This is difficult because I cannot unlock my ecu and change programs. I have a mk6 2012 gti.
View 6 RepliesI am plagued with p0170. Since it started getting the code I have Cleaned maf sensor that was on car (didn't work).
Replaced maf sensor with cheap generic replacement (didn't work).
Thinking it was just a cheap maf I bought a not cheap oem one (didn't work )
Replaced front o2 sensor (didn't work)
Tested intake track for leaks. (No leaks ) boost gauge also reads 25 in hg which also means no major leaks from what I read Tested fuel pressure, and it was perfect.
Changed spark plugs to nkg coppers gapped at .28 (I have a stage 2 ecu but am currently using stock one until issues resolved )
Only think I have not replaced are the spark plug coils and the map sensor.
I also plan on getting a after market wideband o2 sensor so I can see what's going on.
It also seems to pop up when I cruise around 30-40mph. I have taken the car for long drives after clearing codes on high ways amd high speed roads going 45+ and the code won't pop then. Only seems to at lower speeds .
So im getting coils put on in the next 2 weeks, its my first time driving a lowered car i wanna go as low as a can on the coils (which are solowerks s1's) i dont wanna rip my front end off the first week so should i keep it a good height then keep going lower or just go all the way down and drive more carefully(roads not the best where im from, but for sure possible)
Also anything that i should replace while i'm down there besides the strut bushings
When I am done accelerating and let off the gas and just cruise, i am getting a decently loud noise, enough so that you want to keep your foot on the accelerator a bit because under acceleration there is no noise. No noise at idle either. It's like downshifting to a lower gear at a higher rpm and how the engine noise is loud...but I think it's the tranny or something.
My mechanic (who is amazing) thinks it is the dual mass flywheel.
It is a 2004.5 GLI 6spd with 122,000 miles on the original clutch.
I had a motor go bad, overheated, replaced it with another motor. Got it all back together and upon test drive I am having a low rpm (below 3k) bad hesitation/misfire. The engine runs just fine at wide open throttle.
First thing i checked for were plug wires and vacuum leaks. The only difference between the old block and the new block is the fact that i replaced the MAF with a new one, as i was getting a maf code on the old engine. I can't get it to throw a code...
Got a Vr6 a couple weeks ago and recently the gauge has been acting strange. Few days ago the gauge went from normal to showing completely empty and did that for a couple days (gauge would just display normal and occasionally just drop straight to empty and sit there until restart) but yesterday it started just sitting on full. Even when restarted just goes to full. I assume its the sender unit ....
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