Golf IV / Jetta IV :: Cranking But Will Not Fire - Fuel Smell
Mar 1, 2015
2000 1.8t 5 speed Jetta ... The car has run fine up until recently when I started having some starting issues. It was intermittent, and got more frequent and longer. The car will crank but not fire. In the beginning, I could crank it for a few seconds, turn off and turn back on and then it would fire like nothing happen. This continued to happen and progressively get worse until I could not get it started, I could smell fuel which lead me to assume I had to spark.
Today I went out to swap crank sensors but only tried for a little while and cant really get my hand up there. So, I disconnected the battery for a while, went back and connected it, and it started. Up until this point I have had the same 2 codes, over/under boost, but the car has always ran with them present. I scanned today and got a p1545 Throttle position sensor code...But only got that one time. Ive been messing around with disconnecting and reconnecting the battery and among one of these times, the EPC light came on and would not rev passed 1k rpm. turned it off, turned it on, and it was fine after that.
Im sure I have a sensor about to let go Im just not too sure which one it is. I dont have vcds and am not getting a low signal code from the crank sensor with the scanner I have.
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I have Golf MK4 variant 1.6 77kw BCB 2005y
When i crank engine i hear it fire immediately for a fraction of a second, then it carries cranking empty few turns and then fires again.
Happens only on a first start after standing still few hours.
[URL] ....
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Ok so I disconnected the fuel line and the fuel pumps when I turn the key to on and when I crank it it's not pumping gas ..
Changed the relay
Changed the crank pos sensor
I'm at a loss what would cause the fuel pump not pump when cranking?
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2000 Golf Gl AEG 2.0
My car smells of fuel in the exhaust and when checking the oil it is mixed. I have a cel and it says the o2 sensor is bad, not sure if a bad o2 would be causing all of this or not. The air filter is clean and I have done a few oil changes also. The oil is low also after so many miles but cannot seem to see any leaks.
Car also has over 200,000 miles. Is it necessary to change the gear oil in the vehicle?
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B5 1.8T - A few weeks ago, I had some battery issues. Long story short, I ended up changing the battery. A few days later I began to have an issue with my coil/ICM. I decided it was probably a good time to do the delete and conversion to 2.0FSI coils. Before doing that, I used a generic hand held scanner to clear codes and see which would come back just to have a baseline for after the conversion.
At this point, car is not starting at all and I'm getting smell of fuel after cranking. I pull out plugs and see they are soaked with gas. I probably shouldn't have, but at this point I went and converted everything over, expecting that when I was done it would start....
Meanwhile, at this point the car cranks but doesn't start, and it seems as if fuel is dumping into the cylinders. Hooking up to an Elmscan5 and Scantool software, I get absolutely no codes (it IS connecting to ECU to some extent). Im not even able to get the cable to work at all with VCDS lite..
So I have NO codes and a car that turns over but wont start and smells strongly of fuel when I'm cranking it.. I am reluctant to buy anymore tools or software at this point; I'm thinking maybe I fried the ECM, or could it be as simple as throttle body adaptation?
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I own a 99 Mk4 Golf 2.0L the issue I have been experiencing for almost a year now. Is that I'm getting a fuel odor smell every time the car is either idling or moving. My check engine light is on I have also noticed after pumping fuel the car has a difficult time turning on. It eventually turns on and runs .
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I drove my Aurora 300 miles one morning and when I arrived home it was running fine. I shut it off and went in the house and after 10 mins, went to leave again. It just cranked and cranked and wouldn't fire. I assumed it was the fuel pump and upon pricing one out, decided to wait and just plated another car. The Aurora sat all winter and now with the weather a little nicer, decided to try and fire it up last week. It cranked for a few seconds and there was a small explosion under the silver cover plate on the motor. It sounded like a backfire. It did it 2 more times and I stopped trying. It seemed to be coming from the intake and the foam on the under side of that silver plate is singed on the side by the power steering resovoir. Is there something there that could be pooched? Could it still be a fuel pump being that there is something exploding there? Could it be a fuel rail issue? I have read that there have been recalls. And where is this fuel pressure regulator?
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I just bought this car... today... ran great until I got a few exits from my apartment (I think the car knew I had my hopes up for successfully making it home) and all of a sudden the car shut down. There was no smoking, shuddering, or weird scents of any kind. Had my girlfriend following me and she said she didn't see or smell anything... the oil level is good, pretty clean... coolant is clean and pink... timing belt was just done about 5k ago... but she cranks and stumbles a little but that's about it. Battery died from repetitive attempts at starting and now I think that old girl needs to be replaced... but does this sound like a crank position sensor issue like I'm guessing? or possibly cam position sensor? Also might add that the dipstick and oil cap hole had a little smoke coming out of it when I pulled it to check the oil situation... B5 1.8T wagon
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To start I was driving home the other night, car just stalled out and would not start back up, at all. Just cranks over and over. Things I have checked
- I am getting a spark from the plugs
- Fuel pump primes when key is turned on
- Fuel comes out of lines, even more so when key is switched over so pressure should be ok, I have not checked exact pressure due to not having a gauge.
- I have checked all relays under the steering wheel (just visual) some had brownish on the connectors and I cleaned all that off.
- All fuses are good and not blown (voltage meter also showed power coming to a few key fuses I checked.
I am down to a few things that I have read could be possible causes
- Camshaft Position Sensor
- Crankshaft Position Sensor
- Not sure what else to really check
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I have a Mk4 GTI with the 24v vr6. Car wont start, just cranking for days. This all happened a week ago. I was at work, went on lunch at 12 and drove home to eat, come back at 1 and park it. 4 o clock I get off, try to start my car and nothing. Just cranking no turn over. Ive had no prior problems with this car, other than some misfires from 2 different coils, which I've replays 2 of them.
Car has absolutely no spark. Here's the parts I've regretted throwing at it because of this
-Coolant temp sensor
-Spark plugs
-Crankshaft sensor
-Fuel pump relay
I thought for sure it would of been the crankshaft sensor but I put it in and got nothing. I've checked all my fuses and they are all good. Finally got my code read with a vagcom last night and got these 2 codes
01177 no communication to ecu
01314 no communication to ecu
I also get no CEL when turning the key on "ON" which tells me ecu.
So I've kind of narrowed it down to 3 things, but it wouldn't surprise me if it was something else though. I think it's either the ECU, relay 428 for ecu, or wiring on the ecu. I swapped in a working BDF ecu and got nothing. I figured it would at least start and then cut off because of the immobiliser, but maybe im wrong. I know when my key imobiliser died it started and then cut off, maybe with a different ecu that's not married to the car is different and wont start, I am not sure. how this works.
So after the ecu swap didnt work I started reading wires. Going off the diagram here [URL] .....
I have found the following
a) pins 1/2 for ecu ground are OKAY read 12v
b) pin 21 read 12v
c) pin 3 would go to about .12 while cranking. idk what it is supposed to be
d) pin 23, which is ground to the relay 428, read .01, which is the same reading i got off the ground for the relay spot
e) pin 62 gave me nothing with the car off
So right now my concern is kind of on the relay 428. I don't know what it is supposed to read but that seems kind of off for .12v power while cranking and .01 ground. What should these readings be? should i be reading them while cranking?
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I have a 2001 Golf GLS that normally starts on a dime.
It's already had replaced:
New Starter - 11/2/12Ignition Coil / Plugs - 5/22/13Rebuilt Alternator - 5/9/14New Battery - July 2015
The other day, nothing happened when trying to start her, no cranking or anything. The lights work, battery is good.
Yesterday, I depressed the clutch all way to the floor and it started.
Not sure if it's related, but I'd like to trouble shoot before I take it to a shop who's going to want to replace everything.
Car has 154,445 miles. Not original owner, so don't know how they drove it. We got it with 150k
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I have a mk4 golf 1.8t that cranks but wont start. It was running fine for about a year. Then one day it will crank and not start. Since this issue has happened I have replaced the :
-fuel pump-
-fuel pump relay-
-coils-
-spark plugs-
-crank position sensor-
-fuses-
the car still cranks strong (with a jump bc its been about a month or so since its actually ran)
no fuses blown
fuel lines have pressure ( maybe have to bleed the lines ?)
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During recent trip to WITW 2011, I started smelling fuel vapor after stopping and getting out of the car. The smell was easily noticeable near right rear wheel which is obviously at the fuel filler door and neck.
Also, at one time the fuel level showed tank 3/4 full, but after filling it up I discovered that it was nearly empty with appx. 3 Gallons left. After filling the car back up to full, the fuel level went back up showing full, however the fuel vapor odor stayed the same on the way back home.
I have scanned the car and no codes.
Inspected under the car for fuel leaks and found none.
Removed access cover over fuel pump under rt rear seat and did not see any signs of leaks.
Removed rt quarter liner to visually inspect, but did not see anything unusual.
Which component could cause vapors to escape if faulty? R32 now has 31k on it.
I searched and read about possibly faulty fuel sending unit causing faulty fuel level reading, so I will be checking that next. However, no mention about fuel vapor problems.
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2009 Toyota corolla Automatic, 1.8L NON 1ZZFE
Died while Friend was driving .
No MIL, no history or pending codes.
Verified spark with a test plug and a ignition wire tester. Has spark while cranking.
Verified engine has fuel at injectors, removed rail and attempted to start while monitoring injectors, visually fuel is being sprayed out.
Verified compression by removing #2 spark plug, inserted finger into hole, compression forces my finger out of the cylinder head.
Security light comes one initially for 2 second when key is turned on, but goes away during cranking.
Cranks nicely, wont fire or start.
Not sure what's wrong, looking for an EFI or Ignition wiring diagram.
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2003 1.8t gti ... Today when I got in my car...it fired up perfectly normal but when I got in it from leaving school it took 5min to fire up. The engine turned over but wouldn't fire all the time as if the spark plugs were bad. So I bought new NGK spark plugs and had the same issue just a little bit ago.
I know the obvious thing would be to change the ignition coils but they're out of stock everywhere so I have to have them shipped. My question is is the ignition coils the problem? They looked a bit worn but nothing serious.
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On the wifes Santa Fe 2.4 AWD every few starts it seems to crank over longer than it should. It will usually crank right up like it is supposed to. Every few times it may take 3-4 seconds of cranking before it will fire.
The car runs great, averages over 30mpg per the computer. No codes. I don't have a clue what it could be.
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My '08 2.7 has difficulty starting in the morning. It makes the normal cranking noises but won't fire up immediately. I typically let it try to catch for 5-10 seconds, pause, and try again. Then I wait a minute, try again, and everything starts fine. Then it'll start normally the rest of the day.
Pardon my ignorance, but isn't there some sort of compartment that holds fuel into the engine with a check valve that keeps it from releasing back into the tank? Could it be that this valve is leaking?
Or does it sound like I need a whole new fuel pump? I tried to find schematics, but had no luck. I tired hmaservice.com, but I'm not willing to install the Adobe SVG app (obsolete and security risk) to view the documents.
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How long does it take to fire up the engine?Just got mine running today and I'm new to 6.0. It took about 4 seconds the first time, and considering this was a used engine I figured that was very fast to fire up. However, subsequent starts which I had expected to be less cranking are also taking about 3-4 seconds. I haven't had any experience with an oil actuated injection so maybe this is typical for the design?
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My Jetta makes a clicking/clanking noise when I turn my steering wheel from standstill. I was told it was my CV joints. So I replaced them and its still making the noise. I was told then it was my struts/shocks. Is this true? The sound is coming from the front driver side wheel. Also, when looking at this tire. I noticed that while this one does have some wear it is even throughout the tire. However, this tire has more wear than the others. The others look brand new.
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After running to operating temp, if the car is turned off then restarted (like you would at a gas station, which is where I notice this) the engine will turn and turn and turn but not fire. I have noticed that stomping on the acceleration will cough it into life during this procedure. This doesn't happen every time and I have recently run high octane gas during a long distance trip.
106K miles...
Recent p0441 fault codes and gas cap warning light...
No other problems or codes...
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2002 E-250 with the 4.6 V-6. Pulled the 30 amp fuse, replaced the fuel filter, replaced the fuse, now the truck wont start. Checked the fuse and the kill switch under the passenger kick cover, all ok. Cranks and cranks but wont fire. No problem prior to changing the filter. Even swithed out the relay with another, no luck.
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