Golf IV / Jetta IV :: Cranking Strong But Will Not Start
Jul 17, 2015
I have a mk4 golf 1.8t that cranks but wont start. It was running fine for about a year. Then one day it will crank and not start. Since this issue has happened I have replaced the :
-fuel pump-
-fuel pump relay-
-coils-
-spark plugs-
-crank position sensor-
-fuses-
the car still cranks strong (with a jump bc its been about a month or so since its actually ran)
no fuses blown
fuel lines have pressure ( maybe have to bleed the lines ?)
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I have a Mk4 GTI with the 24v vr6. Car wont start, just cranking for days. This all happened a week ago. I was at work, went on lunch at 12 and drove home to eat, come back at 1 and park it. 4 o clock I get off, try to start my car and nothing. Just cranking no turn over. Ive had no prior problems with this car, other than some misfires from 2 different coils, which I've replays 2 of them.
Car has absolutely no spark. Here's the parts I've regretted throwing at it because of this
-Coolant temp sensor
-Spark plugs
-Crankshaft sensor
-Fuel pump relay
I thought for sure it would of been the crankshaft sensor but I put it in and got nothing. I've checked all my fuses and they are all good. Finally got my code read with a vagcom last night and got these 2 codes
01177 no communication to ecu
01314 no communication to ecu
I also get no CEL when turning the key on "ON" which tells me ecu.
So I've kind of narrowed it down to 3 things, but it wouldn't surprise me if it was something else though. I think it's either the ECU, relay 428 for ecu, or wiring on the ecu. I swapped in a working BDF ecu and got nothing. I figured it would at least start and then cut off because of the immobiliser, but maybe im wrong. I know when my key imobiliser died it started and then cut off, maybe with a different ecu that's not married to the car is different and wont start, I am not sure. how this works.
So after the ecu swap didnt work I started reading wires. Going off the diagram here [URL] .....
I have found the following
a) pins 1/2 for ecu ground are OKAY read 12v
b) pin 21 read 12v
c) pin 3 would go to about .12 while cranking. idk what it is supposed to be
d) pin 23, which is ground to the relay 428, read .01, which is the same reading i got off the ground for the relay spot
e) pin 62 gave me nothing with the car off
So right now my concern is kind of on the relay 428. I don't know what it is supposed to read but that seems kind of off for .12v power while cranking and .01 ground. What should these readings be? should i be reading them while cranking?
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I have a 2001 Golf GLS that normally starts on a dime.
It's already had replaced:
New Starter - 11/2/12Ignition Coil / Plugs - 5/22/13Rebuilt Alternator - 5/9/14New Battery - July 2015
The other day, nothing happened when trying to start her, no cranking or anything. The lights work, battery is good.
Yesterday, I depressed the clutch all way to the floor and it started.
Not sure if it's related, but I'd like to trouble shoot before I take it to a shop who's going to want to replace everything.
Car has 154,445 miles. Not original owner, so don't know how they drove it. We got it with 150k
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I've got a '93 Dakota that wouldn't start this morning after a cold snap, it used to fit just fine in any temp. It's cranking strong, can smell gas, and it's getting spark (used an inline tester). Battery had a full charge. Lay night the windchill got down to -40 Fahrenheit.
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I have a 2004 Jetta w/ the 2.0 engine, auto transmission. Lately it has developed a very gassy smell when idling. Could be all the time I guess, but I only ever notice it when idling. It seems more noticeable on the passenger side of the car, or maybe my wife just has a better sense of smell than I do since she noticed it before I did.
The car seems to run fine, about the same as it always has. The idle is slightly rough, but it has been like that ever since I got the car. I got it with about 110,000 miles on it and had the timing belt and water pump replaced as soon as I got it. Mileage now is about 130,000. No info on the maintenance history of the car, but when I had the timing belt changed they said it looked like it was probably the original one.
The check engine light has never come on. I think I'm due for some new spark plugs so I was going to be replacing them soon anyways. Not sure what to check out here that might be causing this?
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I bought a 2004 Santa fe with the 2.4 engine not running. It will not get spark, it is getting fuel I can smell it strong after cranking...It has a new crank position sensor, I took the timing cover off to verify. Whoever put the sensor on cut the wires and soldered/ heat shrink them back together obviously because they didn't want to remove the timing belt. It Also it has a new ignition failure sensor, all fuses are good, there was a spare computer in the vehicle which I tried still no luck. I took loom off and looked at the harness and can't find anything.
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2000 1.8t 5 speed Jetta ... The car has run fine up until recently when I started having some starting issues. It was intermittent, and got more frequent and longer. The car will crank but not fire. In the beginning, I could crank it for a few seconds, turn off and turn back on and then it would fire like nothing happen. This continued to happen and progressively get worse until I could not get it started, I could smell fuel which lead me to assume I had to spark.
Today I went out to swap crank sensors but only tried for a little while and cant really get my hand up there. So, I disconnected the battery for a while, went back and connected it, and it started. Up until this point I have had the same 2 codes, over/under boost, but the car has always ran with them present. I scanned today and got a p1545 Throttle position sensor code...But only got that one time. Ive been messing around with disconnecting and reconnecting the battery and among one of these times, the EPC light came on and would not rev passed 1k rpm. turned it off, turned it on, and it was fine after that.
Im sure I have a sensor about to let go Im just not too sure which one it is. I dont have vcds and am not getting a low signal code from the crank sensor with the scanner I have.
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It happened about 6 months ago, when I was getting ready to leave work then all of a sudden, the R wouldn't start. Flipped the key on and off in the ignition a few time and it started. had a weird idle, bouncing all around at about 1000rpm. Driving it home, the car wouldn't hold an idle and i had to play with gas the whole way home. Once home i could not get her to start again. Checked for spark, had spark but change all 6 plugs and coils anyways cause the service was due.
I scanned the car with a scanner just to check the codes and all i got was a pending crankshaft sensor code. Replaced the sensor cause it wasn't too expensive and i didn't want it to be an issue. I have also notice at the time that the fuel pump wouldn't initially prime when opening the driver door. Got a new job, and didn't have the time to mess with the R, but now I am trying to get her running again.
With the fuel pump not priming I immediately went to think of fuel, and replaced the fuel pump relay with a brand new dealer one. I haven't retested for air/fuel/spark since I just started to re-work on it. But last time I did have spark as when I sprayed some starter fluid, she chugged a little. Also now, when i disconnect and reconnect the battery i hear the initial prime, but when the key is turned to the on position, I don't notice a secondary charge.
I checked the fuel line before the rail and there is some type of pressure(I don't have the tool to check precise pressure). I also scan the car now with just a code reader and I come up with nothing current or pending. I am in the process of trying to borrow a vagcom to read further into the car.
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I have a 2011 GTI (stock - no mods) and noticed in the past two weeks or so a gas smell. The past few days it will be strong at start up after sitting for a few hours. I brought it to the dealer and they did not find any issues. After long drives, the odor is not present.
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My Jetta makes a clicking/clanking noise when I turn my steering wheel from standstill. I was told it was my CV joints. So I replaced them and its still making the noise. I was told then it was my struts/shocks. Is this true? The sound is coming from the front driver side wheel. Also, when looking at this tire. I noticed that while this one does have some wear it is even throughout the tire. However, this tire has more wear than the others. The others look brand new.
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I have Golf MK4 variant 1.6 77kw BCB 2005y
When i crank engine i hear it fire immediately for a fraction of a second, then it carries cranking empty few turns and then fires again.
Happens only on a first start after standing still few hours.
[URL] ....
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Ok so I disconnected the fuel line and the fuel pumps when I turn the key to on and when I crank it it's not pumping gas ..
Changed the relay
Changed the crank pos sensor
I'm at a loss what would cause the fuel pump not pump when cranking?
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I've had an intermittent problem on my DSG GTI. It will crank about 5 - 10 seconds before it turns over. It doesn't happen all the time. I've also noticed it stalling out after start up occasionally.
After several trips to my lame dealer they can't find anything wrong or duplicate the problem.
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Summary of Events:
Lower radiator hose decided to disconnect itself.
Stopped and had car towed home.
Connected hose and filled coolant system.
Car is hesitant to start and takes a couple seconds of cranking.
Misfires in cylinder 3, and a few in cylinder 5, no other codes.
New OEM plugs, no change.
Swapped coil packs around, no change.
Idle is rough but at speed, everything is smooth.
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Yesterday, after having driven the car twice, I got in it to move it, and it would not start. It almost turns over, but never reaches a start, until the dash prompts me to to STOP. I also notice a stong gasoline smell when I get out of the car. What this might be?
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There is a strong gas smell in the car when the car is idle. Ive checked for leaks under the car, checked the gas cap and i check the engine area for any wet spots, everything good. Where else to look .
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I have a ’90 Toyota 4Runner with a 22RE fuel injected engine having 176000 miles. Cold start is fine and idles normally. However, after it has warmed up (hot soak) it will still start right up but will run rough and die unless I give it gas to 2000 RPM and hold it there for 5 seconds or so. Then it will return and hold normal idle. There is also a strong smell of gas. Basically it floods. I have replaced the distributor cap, rotor, spark plugs and distributor itself then ran two cans for fuel injector cleaner through it. I also disconnected the Cold Start Injector Timer Switch thinking that was the problem. Nothing had an effect. Compression is a little low in all cylinders (expected with this mileage) but nothing drastic. One last thing I don’t know if it deserves mentioning. The muffler has something broken inside because it rattles loudly. I have not gotten to that yet.
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I have a 2013 F150 XLT 4X4 with the 5.0. It has 53k miles on it and I purchased it new. A few days ago I tried staring my truck, and on the 5th attempt it finally started. Well I went and replaced the battery because it tested weak. It happened again this morning and it didn't start. I had to have it towed to a mechanic. It turns over strong so I'm thinking it may be a fuel problem. It's not a security issue regarding the smart key. I tried my wife's key and still It didn't start.
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When it gets really cold out, I start getting a good strong squeak from the back of the car when the rear suspension gets worked hard (i.e. twisted). I suspect the bushings on my H&R rear sway are the culprit. Greasing? With what? I don't want to use a lube that eats the rubber part of the bushing, or does any other damage.
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My mk4 golf 1.8t aum has intermittent boost it boosts strong then just drops off ....
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Just in the last couple days, after driving for a while, I noticed a strong burning smell immediately as every time I opened my door! It doesn't feel like it's from the engine bay, but more likely from underneath of the car (I could smell it near the rear wheel arch). The smell starts very noticeable and diminishes quickly! BTW, it's a 2015 GTI DSG, 2-month-old, 2700 miles, pure stock. I got a bit concern on this since it never happened before.
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