I have a 00 Jetta 2.0 AEG engine code and my cooling fans don't seem to be kicking on the low setting. I have changed out my FCM and have also checked the fans to see if they were burnt out and both fans work on both low and high settings. This is also causing my car to overheat but the high speed will kick on when the temp gets too high.
View 9 RepliesI have a 2016 f250 bought in December with an ac problem. The temperature in ky has heated up the last month and the ac has not been able to keep up. The fan seems to work properly but, the air temps seem to vary while on the same setting(max). The problem also varies from nonexistent to mildly bad to horrible. The ford dealer found low side pressure at 60psi and the high side at 300 psi. At idle. Evac and recharge and test. Within a day or two, same problem. A week later at the dealer. Low side 50. High side 275. Found and replaced sticking expansion valve. Road tested and passed. Again within a day or two same thing. Yesterday it was 100 outside and the vent temp was 65-70 degrees. Today at home I ran the ac 4 or 5 times and is was cooling around 45-48 degrees. The outside temp was not as hot today as yesterday. The truck is the lower trim lariat with the dual zone ac. It does not have the voice command. The service advisor was going to consult with the service manager and discuss what to do and to discuss opening what he called a "hot line" to ford. This truck is rapidly getting too much shop time for a new truck.
View 2 RepliesMy, auxilary cooling fan isn't working. However, the bigger (primary) fan is working fine. Fuses, looks ok and i see clutch is engaging fine too. well, the a/c is working but not as it used to before. Its cold but very faintly. I suppose this could be because of the not working auxiliary fan.
View 15 RepliesI recently picked up an 02 Golf with a 2.0/5-speed. It's just a plain-jane model without all the bells and whistles. My fans and A/C aren't working. I can deal with no A/C but the cooling fans are kinda important. I did all of the trouble shooting. Both fans work on low and high when jumped at the radiator temp switch so my fans aren't the problem. I replaced the temp switch with no change. My OBD-II scanner shows that my actual coolant temperature was about 10 degrees off from my temp gauge so I replaced the temp sensor too. The timing belt and water pump were both changed about 5K ago.
I borrowed a "good" FCM from a buddy's car and that didn't work either. I went through the troubleshooting diagnostics for the FCM harness and see that I do not have continuity between T14/14 & T14/5 on the harness side. This indicates that the "F38 Ambient Temp Swicth" is possibly my culprit. Everything else checks out good on the FCM harness. Where is this switch located? I've searched online and found nothing specific to my 02. For the sake of testing can I jump these 2 wires for continuity to simulate a working switch? From what I've read this ambient temp switch disables the fans and A/C when air temps are below a certain temp. My next step is going to be wiring in a variable speed fan controller if I can't figure this out .....but I'd rather not get in to that if I can get the factory setup working.
I've been troubleshooting my AC for the past couple of months -- 2000 GLX -- and have narrowed it down. I have taken the connector off of the Radiator Fan switch and followed the Bently procedure to start the fans. The high speed will run with the ignition switch ON, but I can't get the low speed to operate. The Bentley manual said if the low speed doesn't run, to use the electrical diagram to find the problem. I need to know where the signal for the low speed fan comes from. I have ruled out fuses, etc.....
View 15 RepliesI've decided the first issue w/ my new-to-me jetta I want to focus on is the cooling fan constantly running. I suspect this is potentially related to the temp gauge not reading anything, which I suspect might be because of the coolant temp sensor.
So basically, when I turn the key to on (I'm pretty sure it's on, not start), one of the cooling can comes on. It's the fan on the right side as if you are sitting in the driver seat. I've been looking at the wiring diagram for this issue as well, and the only other thing I can think of that isn't a computer involving issue would be the thermo switch. But it seems like both fans should be coming on in that case, and it's definitely only the one fan that is coming on.
I am having issues with our 2001 vw jetta wolfsburg edition with a AWW engine the cooling fans not working properly. I had a bad fan and replaced it and since changed the thermo fan switch and the module under the battery and still no luck. With the key off I can jump the fans via the plug for the fan switch only low speed works with the key off. with the key on i can get both speeds of the fan to operate. With the ac on the fans operate.. normal driving the fans will not operate. and the engine will overheat and fans will not go on. Any other relays or sensors that could be faulty?
View 2 RepliesI have a quick question, I got a 2005 mk4 gli, and when the cooling fans go on, only one works, the other one does not, I checked the fuse and its fine.
View 13 RepliesMy 03 Golf ac is not working and i am looking for a wiring diagram/ troubleshooting chart. the cooling fans turn on low and I hear the engine surging like the compressor is trying to cycle but it is not.. When I jump the low pressure switch the fans go to high and no power to the compressor. I get a flash of power to the compressor but just a blip every ten seconds. I am trying to check continuity of the ac clutch but having a difficult time getting in there hot. I just bought the car and fixed light body damage on the right front but it was not even bad enough to hurt the washer bottle. Hard to believe the hit caused damage to the ac? AC seems to be charged with about 100 psi static pressure. Why are diagrams so hard to find?
View 2 RepliesI have a problem with my 2005 gti 1.8t , I had a issue with my cooling flange leaking, I changed it yesterday refiled it with g12 and distilled water took the car for a test drive about 20 min in see the temperature go up, no steam or water leaking any where, turn on the heat notice no hot air from the vents,turn on the ac no cold air, and the fans are not turning on. Everything worked the day before I did the coolant flange, am thinking is this possible because the coolant temperature sensor broke? fans will not turn on at all even if it overheating. If I leave the radiator cap off the coolant is spiting out of the overflow expansion tank don't know where to start looking for some pointers. Would bad thermostat cause the fans not to turn on?I think is impossible that the fans and the thermostat broke at the same time with the fact that everything worked the day before..
View 9 RepliesI have a 2001 jetta 1.8 turbo. when I turn the car off the cooling fans stay on and kill my battery. Ive been told it could either be a relay or temp sending unit but i dont know what one to tackle first, also my coolent temp stays way low almost as if the thermostat is stuck open.
View 2 RepliesAlrighty. I have replaced everything dealing with my coolant. New water pump, mishi radiator, pusher fans, thermal switch, temp sensor, t stat, t stat housing coolant pipes, also new gasket and o rings. All new coolant pentofrost sf. Today I went to bleed the cooling system and waited til it did not suck any more coolant down, and we're no signs of air bubbles. Today when I drove it a to Walmart it began to over eat quickly. I pulled over and looked ubder the hood. Coolant was dripping out of my 19-21 pounds moroso cap. And my coolant hoses were rock hard.
Although my top radiator hose was very hot and my bottom was not, but closer to the motor it was. Like if there was a blockage but there isn't in the hose that goes to the block on the bottom of my radiator. Even with the air flow and my fans manually turned on when I first started the car it was steal overheating. On my vehicle there is not a reservoir it has been deleted. I have just my hoses and my radiator that's it. I don't know what can be causing this to happen. Also I ran an air pressure test and my head gasket is not leaking. Any clue what could be going on????
I have a problem I can't seem to figure out. My car has a misfire at idle. It has stumbled every once in a while at idle before while at Red lights. Now it does it all the time. Check engine light is on and I got 5 codes. P0300, p0301, p0302, p0303, p0340, and p0012. The last two are for cam position sensor. I took it outo and looked at it. Looks fine. I reinstalled it and hand cranked the motor with a meter hooked up and I am reading about 10 volts when it senses the metal ring going around. So I think that is good. I sprayed brake cleaner on all the hoses to see if the motor reved to hopefully find a vacuum leak. Nothing. I also noticed today that my cooling fans or my ac don't work. Now I have another issue to deal with. I checked all my plugs and wiring and coils also.
View 1 RepliesBought a mk4 1.8 gti golf last week and day after I got it I filled it up with petrol at Tesco. Since I did that, the engine management light has been on. It hasn't affected the drive or anything so haven't done anything about it yet.
One of the guys at work plugged in his computer thing to it to find out the fault and the code was coming up as 'cooling system malfunction'. He took the fault off so the light no longer comes on but now it makes the most horrendous noise like a grinder or something when the engine is running. I have not driven it anywhere and won't until it has been looked at but just wondered what others thoughts on it might be? Could the noise be something to do with the turbo? Had new cam belt, water pump etc at about 138000/139000 miles (November 2013) and hasn't done more than 10000 since.
Just picked up a 2004 MK4 Jetta GLS 2.0 for really cheap.
As the title reads I have found some issues with the car after giving it a once over.
Dash/Radio lights - My Dimmer Switch is not getting power. I was wondering what the next step would be. I checked all the fuses and there is no issue.
Cooling Fan - I read about testing the plug and a CFM. Which should be done first?
A/C - I changed Electrical-Switch & Relay: A/C Clutch Switch and it did not fix the issue.
So I picked up this 24v vr6 in florida and it has the folowing codes:
p2181 malfunction in cooling system
p0303 misfire in cylinder 3
p0305 misfire in cylinder 5
p0300 random multiple misfires detected
p1570 engine control module disabled
I am thinking the ecu is fried? otherwise why else would that last code pop up. misfire codes im assuming are related to the ecu because theres new COP on each cylinder, newer starter, newer alternator, new spark plugs. Cooling system malfunction im thinking could be the ECT sensor, apparently the water pump was replaced a little while back.
If the ecu is fried can I buy a new one chipped from like APR or do they need the existing ecu and then they modify it?
I want to start by saying I'm new and don't really fully know how to search vortex, I'm sure there's probably a bunch of things about this. I have an 04.5 gli, my temp gauge reads 190 all of the time but according to vag com I'm running at about 220 some times higher. I've heard my fan kick in once in the year I've owned it. Also I get a decent amount of power loss after driving for about 20 to 30 minutes. Idk if that's related, but just hard wire the fan with a switch? I don't have a lot of money so I'm not really trying to play a guessing game replacing stuff.
View 6 RepliesSo my ac stopped working, well actually I bought the car in the winter and never realized it didn't work until the summer rolled around. The clutched pulley won't engage and I don't know why. I checked all the fuses and checked the the pressure in the system and its all good.
Here's the weird part through. I put my multimeter on the connector for the compressor and it reads 12v whether I have the ac on or not.
So I took apart my key fob the other day to put it into a new shell, only to realize you can't swap an oval-buttoned key to a rectangle-button fob, so I reassembled my key and now it doesn't work. I can unlock the door manually but it doesn't disarm the alarm. I can start my car and the alarm will go off but the engine stays running. Battery's are good. I don't get it.
View 3 RepliesSo I picked this clean mk4 up and its my daily but what to do. It already has new coilovers and little things here and there.I recently noticed my e brake doesn't work I tried adjusting but no luck what can it be the cables seem to be intake. Also if I get a bov does it make my gas mileage crappy?
View 7 RepliesWell our remotes only worked close the car and was driving us nuts. You'd have to be within 10 feet or so to arm or unarm the car. So i looked at the wiring diagram for the comfort control module and found which pin the antenna wire is at. Its pin 10 of the smaller connector (12 pin i think) and is a copper wound wire with a clear sheath around it. its the only one that doesn't have a colored insulation around it. I removed the terminal and wire from that slot and installed a new terminal with 6 feet of wire spliced on.
I then routed the new antenna wire along the door sill and to the rear seat area. Its now a 6 foot antenna instead of the small 2 foot one. I then started walking away and arming and un-arming the car. i got to the end of my court (roughly 50 feet) and it was still arming and un-arming even if i held the remote low and not up in the air. Id have to say this was a HUGE improvement and i am much happier not having to walk down stairs to arm the car.