Golf IV / Jetta IV :: Compressor Will Not Disengage Even With AC Off - Battery Draining
May 2, 2014
Clutch for the AC Compressor will not disengage even with the AC off. The only way I can daily the car is if I disconnect the power from the AC Compressor at the compressor itself. Seems the AC compressor has a constant draw if it is plugged in.
Plugged = dead battery...
Unplugged = good battery...
I'm getting ready to rip the damn thing off the engine and calling it a day, but that would defeat the purpose of me buying a new compressor.
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I have an 02' 2.0 Jetta Wagon, and the A/C is having some issues. Since I know close to nothing about A/C systems, I took it in to a few places to have it looked at. I've had the whole system Evac'd and recharged, and have had the low pressure fitting replaced (apparently there was a slight leak there), and the system is still not working.
The A/C worked fine when I first purchased the car a few months ago. Shortly after my 800 mile trek from Oregon, back to home, the A/C started to only work intermittently. The compressor would engage, then disengage, repeat...It seemed like a bad idea to keep trying to use it in its sad state so I stopped using it altogether. As I said, I had the system emptied and recharged, but it still only works intermittently. It sort of follows a pattern where upon start up it works longer, and switches on and off at shorter intervals, until it doesn't engage at all.
There are no strange noises from the compressor, and when it was hooked up to the machine, it proved to be performing its function well.
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I recently bought a 2000 Golf VR6 and I've noticed that my fan to the radiator stays in way too long and think it might be draining my battery. I don't even have to start the engine, once I put my key in the fan starts going. I'm getting really annoyed of having to take the out the fuse to get it to turn off. The battery is brand new so I don't think that's the problem.
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I have a 99 Jetta mk4 and the factory alarm appears to be draining the battery. If the car sits for more than a day with the alarm set the battery light will come on.
If I don't set the alarm it seems ok. I assume it is something with the alarm but I realize there could be some other issues contributing. For example there is a light on the radio that blinks. It obviously uses some power.
I have 3 specific questions.
1. Where is the alarm located and if I disconnect it will is screw up other things? i.e. will the car start and run. Will the remote keys work etc.?
2. Is is possible for ME to disable the auto door look feature. The manual says take it to the dealer but is there a switch or similar that I can access on my own?
3. What is a good battery that people recommend in this size? I noticed the oem factory battery is 575 CCA and I have seen replacements as high as 650 CCA..
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My car has been having an issue with battery draw. when I don't drive it for 2-3 days the battery is drained enough for me to need my jump pack to start it. I have done a wire tuck on the motor and also have air ride. I hooked a wire up between the battery and the negative cable with a light connected and it lights up with the car off. What I have done so far is to pull each fuse in the door fuse panel individually and the light stayed on the entire time. Next I pulled the power feed to my air ride system out and the light flashes and I can hear what sounds like a relay clicking. If the issue were the air ride I would think disconnecting it would make the light go out.
I need to pull the fuse panel that was on top of the battery and pull those fuses out too. Should I try pulling the relays as well?
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I am new to the R32 but I have a 2nd owner 60k 2004. The battery keeps draining, put the new one in and it was good for a day. If you jump it, it will work for about 2days and then it is drained down to 3 to 4 volts. No lights or readout on gauges. I am stumped.
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My 01 GTi (12v VR6) was having some trouble shifting into, and out of, first and reverse so after a bit of research I decided to try adjusting the shift linkage as it seemed like a possible easy fix. After doing that I tried backing it up in the driveway and after a couple of shifts to different gears it ended up getting stuck in reverse. When I pushed in the clutch pedal to let it roll forward I noted that it seemed to be resisting rolling forward despite the steep incline. Once it reached a less steep incline it stopped rolling forward completely, so I'm thinking that it probably won't come out of gear because the clutch won't disengage all the way.
I've done some searching around and from what I've read so far it sounds like it could be a worn or damaged clutch fork, the hydraulic lines, master or slave cylinder, or even a broken clutch plate. What I don't want to do is pull the transmission and clutch, only to find that it was something much easier to fix.
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I have a truck, info is in my sig, and the A/C system has lost it's charge. I haven't had the truck too long and don't know how long it's been since it's been ran. I have a little background in A/C and refrigerants so I just have a couple of questions. Since this system leaked down to atmospheric pressure, how do I go about removing the oil from the compressor? I might have to remove the compressor but was trying to avoid it. I can if I need to. I know that it's R134a and it uses POE oil that is azeotrophic so you can't remove all the water and the remaining water will turn to sludge and acid. I know that I should probably change the drier and all the o-rings, but is there anything else that would need to be changed?
I know that the pressure switches are good, or at least the low pressure, because when I put some refrigerant in my girlfriends car because of a leak, I put the rest in my system to see if I could get the system to turn on and cycle. It did and I shut it off. The system was at 0 psig when I put the gauge on it and it took about 3 weeks for it to complete leak back down to 0. The compressor sounded good so I would think that it would just be a small leak. I think that the low pressure switch saved the compressor when it was low on charge. Am I overlooking anything? I have a manifold set and a good vac pump. I think I can just charge it back up to factory charge after I fix the leak and go from there.
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I have charged system 134 ... Compressor works at start up until warm, then light flashes and compressor disengages. No noise and gets cold until motor gets heated.
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Just noticed yesterday that the compressor clutch does not disengage while the air conditioner is on. It is 2005 V6 Sonata Elite. All the other cars I have ever owned had compressor clutches that cycle. Internet searches indicate that there might be air conditioners with only a low-pressure switch.
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The A/C in my truck stopped working last year, and this year I intend to fix it. I believe the problem is with the compressor clutch because it was making noise as it would engage or disengage. It was making this noise for a good year or so, and then one day the noise stopped and I have no A/C. So I am only assuming its the clutch.
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My Chevrolet 1992 Caprice Air conditioner is chilling but the compressor doesn't disengage when reach the right temperature inside cabin... There seems to be a temperature control or a sensor and I don't know where is it...
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AC compressor won't kick on at all. I know the system doesn't have much refrigerant (just replaced the line that runs from the expansion valve to the bottom of the drier, the drier itself, and the condenser)..
Evacuated the entire system with a pump. Tried putting refrigerant in and the pressure on the gauge goes up immediately into the yellow/red...jumped the connector on the high pressure switch and the fans came on, shouldn't the compressor kick on too?
Checked the 14 pin connector on the fcm for 12V...PIN number 8 is barely seeing any power which leads to no power getting to the compressor...
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The dealer diagnosed my a/c as needing a new compressor and clutch. I had an a/c specialty shop install a remanufactured compressor and clutch. however, they could not get the compressor to kick on. I checked all fuses (all are good).
I checked the compressor continuity (good, 0 ohms). I checked the plug where the compressor clutch plugs in (it reads 12 volts). the funny thing is, it reads 12 volts anytime the engine is running (even if the climatroinc is turned off). I am definitely not an a/c expert and really don't know how this stuff works.
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In my 2001 2.0, my AC has been blowing hot air for a while now. It was intermittent at first but now is constant.
The compressor runs without going off when the AC is switched on. I can tell because I see the compressor clutch engaged and spinning.
I tested with AC manifold gauges and these are the readings I got.
Engine off : Low is 0, High is 135
Engine on, AC on full blast after running 10 min at 1500 RPM:
Low is 4, High is 135
Looks pretty bad.
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I am trying to figure out why my AC is not working. Both fans are coming on and the AC button is light up but it is not blowing cold. The charge was checked and it has a good charge. The compressor appears to not be engaging. I checked for power at the electrical connector for the AC compressor and my voltmeter is showing voltage between 3.1-8.3 volts. It jumps around between that voltage every few seconds. The fuses have all been checked and are in not broken. What else should I be checking?
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2000 jetta 2.0
so far i have replaced 2 fans ; thermal switch in radiator ; ran all the tests i can find ; all fuses and relays seem fine ; jumped compressor and it engages .
key on & car NOT running there is no power to the compressor.
I wanted to check the low pressure switch but every test is for a 2 wire set-up.... mine has 3 wires. which wires do i jump?
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I have a 2004 Jetta wagon 2.0. About 2 years ago my compressor was replaced with a used one and the a/c was working perfectly fine. Last year the air from the a/c began to get warmer until it completely stopped blowing any cold air. A couple of weeks ago we checked the freon lines and they had plenty of pressure in them. We also checked the fuses in the car and on top of the battery along with the fan control module. The compressor spins from the serpentine belt but the clutch does not engage and there is no power in the wires going to the compressor. There is power at the high pressure switch but the condenser fan does not come on unless the switch is jumped. Could the culprit be the ambient temperature sensor?
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Ok My Ac doesn't work on my 05 Jetta 2.0 blows hot air. These are the steps taken so far to no avail
_Function test A/C System_ A/C is not cold_ Recover A/C, System was low
_Pressure test system with nitrogen for leaks_No Leaks Found
_Charge system and add dye
_Test operation
_Found compressor not cutting in_ Inspect for ground at compressor_OK
_Test for power at compressor_NO POWER GETTING TO COMPRESSOR
_Inspect fuses_OK
What's going on with this and what the next steps might be?
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Compressor does not engage, and my fans do not come on when I turn on the A/C. They do come on low speed when I jumper pins 1 and 2 on the temp switch plug, but they do not come on high speed when I jumper pins 2 and 3.
I have replaced the FCM with a new one, as well as a guaranteed working used one; neither one changed anything. I assumed right away that it was the fcm because my original one has a hole eaten through it from battery acid.
Compressor clutch ohms out within spec, and it will engage if jumpered.
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I have a 2003 2.8 GLI and my compressor clutch will not engaged i provided the clutch with a direct power and ground from the battery and it engaged. i also went to the junk yard and got a couple of Fan Control Module ($4 each) and it still does not engaged.
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