Golf IV / Jetta IV :: Codes For Random Misfire And Small EVAP Leak Detected
Jul 7, 2015
Okay, so a few weeks ago, my tire blew out on the freeway. Of course my spare wasn't in there and when I got one I couldn't get the lugs loosened. My 4way was too big on all sides. It was late, I am a single mother of two young kids so I had no choice but to drive slowly to get it off the freeway. The next morning I came back fully prepared, got my car in to get a new tire. I have been driving with ONE code for my CEL, but at the shop (where I use to work) I used the scanner and it threw 5 codes.
P0300 Random misfire
P0442 Small EVAP leak detected (this one was already there)
P0420 Catalyst system below threshold bank 1
P0301 Misfire cyl 1
P0303 Misfire cyl 3
My beautiful love is an 02 Jetta 2.0 4 Cyl. Now, since 4 of these codes popped up AFTER my first blowout (I turn 30 next month, knock on wood)
Did driving my car at 5 mph about a mile and a half (everywhere up until the gas station was NO PARKING) do something to my car? All of a sudden, any in town driving ESP IDLING makes my check engine light blink and my car has no power I just have to pull over wherever I am. I checked the car out myself on the side of the road and my cat was glowing. After this I do not drive my car.
So, what should I do. I did a tune up. Should I replace the 02 sensors then the cat?
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so my girls car is throwing an evap code (P0442) small leak detected. I bought a new oem gas cap and replaced the purge valve solenoid under the hood. that didn't work, CEL still comes on about 100mi after clearing the code.
I have checked the rubber hoses that were attached to the purge valve solenoid when i replaced it and they are fresh, no dry rot or cracks that i can see. The hose on one side goes to a hard line that runs under the car to the back, the hose on the other side of the solenoid runs under the intake to the throttle body. That hose was fine as well. Connections were tight and i even put better clamps on the hose ends that attach to the solenoid. So I have ruled out that portion of the system (under the hood).
I also removed the rear seat to access the fuel pump. All those connections seem nice and tight, I don't smell any strong gas fumes indicating a leak so i don't think the fuel pump gasket is the problem either. Finally, i checked out the hard lines running under the car front to back and I see no apparent or obvious damage. I assume my next step is to pull off the rear passenger wheel well liner and asses the charcoal canister and the LDP connections, correct??
The last thing I will mention is, Idid notice the 2 fuel lines that attach to the fuel regulator are in pretty rough shape, however not leaking any fuel. Are both of these lines actual liquid fuel lines? I am thinking one of them is a vapor return which may be part of the EVAP system. If it's dry-rotted and leaking vapors could that be the culprit??
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It all started with a fuel cap loose light (it wasn't) after a day or two the MIL came on and got this code I reset it but I'm sure it'll come back since there's probably a real leak. What can I check myself to find this leak?
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I recently found these codes. My car is APR 1+. The car seems to run fine so I'm not sure what is going on. I changed the plugs at ~60K miles and now have 72K miles.
Address 01: Engine (CRZ) Labels: 06F-907-115-CDL.clb
Part No SW: 5K0 907 115 M HW: 8P0 907 115 B
Component: 2.0l R4/4V TFSI 0020
Revision: 5BH20--- Serial number:
Coding: 0403010A180F0160
[Code] ....
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My 2007 Sonata continues to throw a P0456 code, small evap leak detected, gas cap is tight, getting ready to check the evap hoses. The question I have is the evap system covered under the emissions warranty at all ?
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This is the code i pulled from Vag. Its not the gas cap...
VCDS Release 805.0: Generic OBD2
Mode 03: Emission related fault codes
Address 10 (Engine): 1 Fault Found:
P0456 - EVAP System: Very Small Leak Detected
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2004 VW touareg v6 - engine light on - autozone diagnosed as code P0456. Possibly gas cap, so I replaced with aftermarket gas cap from auto zone. Light still on. What can I do or replace to fix problem. I read something about a N60 or N80 valve. Is this something I can buy and replace myself. Most of my mechanical experience is related to working on a 85 CJ7 with an inline 6cyl or Chevy trucks. If the N valve is a easy fix, any instructions and pictures of how to do this.
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Got a CEL tonight while driving. Originally I was driving and the light came on saying that my gas cap was loose. I corrected the problem when I got home and tightened again. The light stayed on however. I ran a scan with the OBDII and it gave me a code for EVAP- Very Small Leak .
I was reading around and some people suggested the MAF. Which would make sense because I recently had all of that stuff off and gave the engine a deep cleaning while it was exposed. I just don't see how the MAF could relate to the code my car is pushing?
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CEL came on after a couple of driving cycles showing code P0456 (evap emission control system very small leak detected)............. car drives fine has good gas mileage.....
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I had a check engine light cane on. I took it for it to get checked and they gave me this code- P0457 EVAP small leak detected. ECM has detected a large leak in the EVAP System during a system monitor test.
The paper said I had a leak in the Evap canister or hose. I took the truck to a mechanic and was told I had Bad oxygen sensors. Can Bad/Dirty oxygen sensors make this error code come up?
Exactly where the oxygen sensors are? I was told they were behind the mufflers but I didn't see any and the diagram I found was not accurate.
2002 Ford Ranger XLT v6 extra cab.
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Trying to troubleshoot my 2001 Elantra (173k). I'm having intermittent trouble codes being set and I'm wondering if they may be related:
P0302
P0303
P0446
The cylinder 2 and 3 misfires are relatively recent. Plugs and wires are visually ok (and not that old). I swapped plugs 1 and 4 with 2 and 3 to see if the plugs are bad. It took 3-4 days, but the P0303 set again (and it's very intermittent - car will noticeably lose power for a few seconds, code set, then run fine for several days). I also sprayed carb cleaner on the intake manifold gasket with no change in engine idle, so the gasket appears to be intact.
I had read in a forum somewhere that the misfires could be related to a vacuum leak, which could also be setting the P0446 code. I removed the charcoal canister and inspected the lines - visually ok.
I bench-tested the canister control valve and it did operate, though I noticed some charcoal blocking the valve so it would not close all the way when energized. I used compressed air to blow the debris out of the valve and it appears to close properly now.
I went to hmaservice.com and noticed there are no instructions for the P0446 DTC. I've been using a Haynes manual instead. For quite some time now when refueling, the fuel nozzle shuts off every few seconds (I have to slowly put the fuel in to avoid).
Some questions:
- Can these codes be related?
- Based on my symptoms, should I replace the canister control valve? What about the charcoal canister and the charcoal air filter - should those be replaced as well?
- What else should I check?
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I have a 2005 F-150 W/ 5.4 triton, and am having multiple codes. They are:
P0172- System to rich(Bank 1),
P0174- System to lean(Bank 2),
P0300- Random misfire,
P0303- Cylinder # 3 misfire detected,
P0304- Cylinder #4 msfire detected.
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So on monday the following error codes appeared on my car. What needs to be replaced off the error codes?
P0300Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected2014-02-04 13:48:29
P0301Cylinder 1 Misfire Detected2014-02-04 13:48:29
P2030No Description Available2014-02-04 13:48:29
P3030No Description Available2014-02-04 13:48:29
C0033No Description Available2014-02-04 13:48:29
P0603Internal Control Module Keep Alive Memory (KAM) Error2014-02-04 13:48:29
C1400No Description Available2014-02-04 13:48:29
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Here are the codes I'm getting:
P0455 - large evap leak
P1451 - main control (evap canister)
P0306 - cylinder 6 misfire
P0174 - bank 2 lean
are these all related? Or two separate issues. I have replaced all the evap lines with new lines. I have a new egr valve, and exhaust manifolds, and what should I look at 1st
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I was driving the car normal with no problem. Got to a red light stop an as I was coming out of the red light the car started to hesitate a bit. So I start to drive home as I was driving home my check engine start to blink and then it stay on. When I got home and park the car I shut off ,then start it up again then the check engine light was off but the hesitation was still there. Then I got my computer and got the vagcom and got this code :
16684-random/multiple cylinder misfire detected
P0300-008- implausible signal
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I was having an issue with my car not going into boost so I plugged my code reader in and it had 2 codes 1 was p1200 n249 malfunction and the other was diverter valve malfunction so I did the quick easy one and got a new factory diverter valve but it still doesn't go into boost and still reads p1200 n249 what do I need to replace or should I do the n249 bypass it's a bone stock jetta 5 speed.
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What is going on with my sisters passat 2002 V6 GLX Auto 4Motion. Here is the codes:
16730-Camshaft Position Sensor (G163) Implausible Signal
P0346-35-00
16684-Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
P0300-35-00
16688-Cylinder 4: Misfire Detected
P0304-35-00
16690- Cylinder 6: Misfire Detected
P0306-35-00
16689-Cylinder 5: Misfire Detected
P0305-35-00
I changed Both sensors and it still same problem. Car only has 40,000 miles didnt change timing belt.
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my car was running fine yesterday. Today the check engine light came on and it started to run funny.. I checked the diagnostic code and it says the the cylinder is misfiring and that oxsygun sensor is malfunctioning. (Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected)
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I guess misfires are a rite of passage for these vehicles. I purchased it only a week ago. Welcome to Hyundai...
The car has 53k kms. It's throwing P0300 and P030X on all cylinders. There was one instance of P0128. The engine runs smoothly and doesn't seem to down on power, although I have nothing to compare it to. The only performance issue is that it acts as if there is a rev limiter at 6k rpm. It sputters and stops pulling above 6k. Strangely, it doesn't throw the codes under load. The light flashes while it's running steady-state.
I pulled the plugs and they appeared to be in excellent condition with no erosion of the electrodes. The ash is slightly more white than I would expect, making me wonder about it being excessively lean. I called the dealer. They told me that coils are problematic. Replacing the coils made no difference.
That lead me here. I found the thread "Check engine light flashes then stays solid," which referenced the ECM update.
Interestingly, of the codes mentioned on the TSB, the car is having all but the last two.
- P0300: Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected.
- P0301: Cylinder 1 - Misfire Detected.
- P0302: Cylinder 2 - Misfire Detected.
- P0303: Cylinder 3 - Misfire Detected.
- P0304: Cylinder 4 - Misfire Detected.
- P0128: Coolant Thermostat (Coolant Temperature Below Thermostat Regulating Temperature).
- P0328: Knock Sensor 1 Circuit High Input.
- P0461: Fuel Level Sensor A Circuit Range/Performance.
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My buddy has a 2010 tiguan and hes having a misfire issue. It has a hesitation and the interior lights seem to dim with the hesitation. Heres the codes that pulled up with vagcom.
4 Faults Found:
000768 - Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
P0300 - 000 - - MIL ON
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 11100000
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 255
Mileage: 148426 km
[Code] ....
What it might be?
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Took my Camry into the dealership for some preemptive work. Mechanic located a small oil leak under the car. Went through several iterations of cleaning/driving it for a few days to see if the issue would reoccur, unfortunately it seems to been a consistent leak (small).
The mechanic was unable to fully pinpoint where the leak is coming from (something about the oil riding down the power steering line down). We started off with two potential locations:
washers around/near the VVTI line, the housing on the engine. I've been wanting the metal VVTI line for a while, so I went ahead and replaced it. Unfortunately, the leak continued.
I was advised that in order to work on the housing on the engine (describe as possible bad seal) they would have to remove the power steering and the engine. Estimate to be 15-20 hours. They would remove the housing and reapply the seal.
Would like to reach out to the members of TN for advice. As of right now, the leak is very small and there has been no noticeable oil accumulation on the drive way. Still, this issue is somewhat annoying.
I've attached a pic, there's a very small drip of oil. It's located on mid/passenger side of the bottom bay.
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