So i was driving and I went to shift and my clutch never came back up. Long story short after searching the forums i think it might be my slave cylinder and throwout bearing. There was a puddle of fluid under the car.
I was planning on using this DIY : [URL] ....
Just wondering if all i have to do is follow this up to step 48 and replace the throwout bearing and slave cylinder.
So i was trying to adjust my freinds shift linkage on his o2j and i got a little ahead of myself and forgot to put the shift tower in the home position before making the adjustment. after i realized you can't shift into second ( either that or 2nd and 4th are extremely close together now and feel like the same gear ). I try to get it in home position even with the cables off ( did this for experimentation) and still wouldn't go into home position...meh. still have all the other gears including reverse .
View 4 RepliesMy 03 Jetta is having transmission trouble. It will shift from 1st to 2nd but wont shift to 3rd. It is an automatic 2.0.
View 10 RepliesToday, driving the car around town it was suddenly really hard to shift in/out of first when the car was stopped. Driving, no problem at all. Then within the ~15-minute drive, it got progressively worse.
Got the car home, checked and noticed that my HPA short shifter was wearing out (the splines), so I threw on the stock piece and figured everything would be ok... not the case. Here's what's going on:
- When the car is off, I can shift through all gears easily (and into the proper gears as far as I can see.. which tells me that shifter alignment should also be fine)
- When the car is off, and (for example) I have the car in 1st - I can let off the ebrake and the car doesn't roll (it's in gear), when I press the clutch, it will roll
- When the car is RUNNING, I can't shift in/out of any gears at all. This morning it was just really tough, and it was actually easier if I didn't have the clutch pedal all the way to the floor.. but now I can't at all if the car is running
- No signs of anything leaking under the car
- The car is APR Stg 3 and I have about 50k miles on a stage 2 clutch. Prior to this, I didn't notice any slipping, weird noises when shifting, etc.
Sound like either master/slave clutch cylinder? Or more like a clutch issue itself?
So, For the past week or so, I've been noticing that my clutch has been getting harder and harder to depress when I go to shift. I only have 1500 miles on the car and picked it up 3 weeks ago. When I took delivery, the cars clutch was silky smooth.
This "tightness" is almost as bad as my 6MT clutch on my old subaru (which needed to be replaced because the spring on the pressure plate tightened). What could be making the clutch feel so heavy? I'm not too familiar with the VW clutch. Is it hydraulically actuated? If so, maybe the fluid is low or leaking?
My R is stock. When I accelerate hard and shift, I can hear like a whine noise when I press the clutch to shift.
Its like something continue to spin fast when I press the clutch at high rpm.
I just brought my gti in for the 20K oil change etc... I have noticed something weird... when I accelerate hard or have been driving for a while, and then shift into neutral or push in the clutch, the engine revs up to almost 2K, then back down to 1K once or twice, then finally settles to 700rpm's. It doesn't do it cold, or when I have the AC running.
I have no CEL's, and the dealer just said they ran a fault check, and it was clear. I do have an APR exhaust and a K&N intake (I think stage1 tune)... I asked about the PCV valve, and they said that would throw a code... They said they could do additional diagnostics out of warranty, since they think it has to be part of my aftermarket stuff.
I don't know if it's related, but if I really jump on it, in 5th gear or so, I can hear the car losing a little rpm's then around 4K just for a second, then it's goes back to normal... This only happened once or twice, so maybe it was just in my head...
Just a heads up to all MKIV GTI owners out there, new and old. If you feel like the tension on your clutch pedal is deteriorating get it checked earlier rather than later. Because if the slave cylinder malfunctions and leaks you will be faced with a big repair bill due to the fact that the slave cylinder is located inside the tranny. Secondly because of this design, which I think is very stupid, it leaks onto the clutch assembly and can get on your clutch plate. At that point you should replace the clutch plate to prevent any further damage that might be caused by slippage. The clutch plate should not come in contact with any fluids or it will compromise the functionality.
View 2 RepliesMy mother In law's a/c is not working. Last year I replaced the compressor, fcm, and pressure sensor and nothing. Well fast forward a year and I'm here again trying to sort it out. I unplugged the connector to the compressor and there is 2 black wires 1 wire has 6 volts (not 12v) and the others reads nothing. When I turn the A/C on the fans do come on.
View 6 RepliesSo i have a 05 1.8t gti... just bought it about 3 months ago and it has a stage 2 south bend clutch... the car has only 68k on it and the clutch is slipping already... it was driving fine then about a week ago all hell broke loose and it's slipping bad... now for my question what performance clutch is recommended? I have a giac tune and its pushing about 21 boost... . would a 2.0 performance clutch work on the 1.8t?..
View 12 RepliesDriving home yesterday and the ac wouldnt come on my 2003 golf. Worked fine day before. All fuses are fine. Small fan works but large one needs to be replaced but its been that way. Ac button works fine too. What else would cause the clutch to not engage? I believe the pressure is fine as it worked fine the day before.
View 3 RepliesI'm a new owner of a 04 gti 1.8t. The car has been modified with a ko5 turbo @ 20psi, apr tune, 3" turbo back exhaust, hks bov, and a FMIC. The car is amazing, but with my luck after only a few days of owning the car the clutch started slipping.
View 2 RepliesHere's the story: was on my way downtown last night to get a new suit (I'm in Savannah, GA so it's hot) and AC was working great. The Jetta (2003 AWP) is a stock-everything-1.8T that has never had any AC work done to it from the day I bought it new. I figured it was doing just fine so just leave it alone. Anyway, leave the suit shop (bought a gray three-piece) and go back to the parking lot, start up and get ready to leave, no cold air from the vents. I get it home and do some reading on here and also in the Bentley manual and get into some preliminary troubleshooting. Here's what I have so far:
- Engine running/AC button ON/Blower on "3"/Recirculation OFF/Engine at operating temperature
- Turn blower ON - visually verified that clutch is not engaged and compressor is not spinning
- Shut car off, compressor does turn by hand easily
- With AC button on and blower on, passenger side cooling fan (behind radiator) is ON but driver side cooling fan IS NOT on - I think this indicates a problem from what I've read
- Checked cabin fuses 5, 16, & 25. All have low resistance (good continuity) and are not discolored. Just to make sure I scuffed the contacts with a scotchbrite pad and reinstalled them
- Same deal for the top-of-the-battery power distribution block. All fuses checked okay and were scuffed and reinstalled
- Moved on to the pressure switch/pressure sensor. My vehicle has the 3-pin sensor so jumping contacts is not a possibility. I need to rent/buy a duty cycle meter to check it. Any good tutorial on how to do this? Do I disconnect the connector and check it right at the switch or must I break out the wires and check it in parallel with the connector attached to the sensor?
- I grabbed a flat-head screwdriver and gave the high-pressure and low-pressure service valves a poke and got a good blast of pressure from them so I don't think the system is empty.
- Did a little more reading and found I needed to check voltage at the 3-pin connector on top of the battery power distribution block. I did this with the key ON - no power at any of the pins. Repeated with key ON and engine running with AC button ON and blower ON - still no voltage. For these measurements, the connector was DISCONNECTED. Does this matter? Do I need to have it plugged in to get voltage there (i.e., read the voltage from the rear of the connector with it installed?)
- Finally, and perhaps most enlightening, I suspected I may simply be low on R134a so I bought a can with a pressure gauge on it. Connected it to low-pressure side with engine running, AC button ON, blower on "4", recirculation OFF. The gauge read ~150 PSIG. Yes, this seems high to me too; however, the compressor is still not turning at this point. Does it need to turn to get a good pressure reading from the LP service valve? I recall from everything I read that if pressure is too low, the clutch won't engage, and if pressure is too high, the clutch won't engage
So, as far as I can tell I have a few problems...
1. The driver side fan doesn't run when AC button is ON
2. No voltage at the 3-pin connector on the battery power distribution block Incorrect methods...there is voltage there.
3. Low-pressure side of the AC system is too high Called and checked with a local mechanic...I won't receive correct pressures if the compressor is not turning.
My next steps are to check the voltage at the compressor connector for 12VDC. I suspect I'll get 0V because it's clearly not turning. I'll do this once I can figure out how to get the dang connectors apart without breaking them. 11-year-old heat fatigued plastic is brittle...
Finally got the compressor connector apart.. there is 12VDC on pin 1 and 0VDC on pin 2 (it's a ground, so there shouldn't be..ground continuity check good). Ohmed out the clutch...from what I can tell, that circuit is open. However, I am not 100% sure I was on the contacts because of how the connector is positioned. I'm going to get a dummy connector from a salvage yard and connect it up and make sure I have good contact before I call it a bad clutch.
I drive a 24v vr6 GTI in 6-speed I was coming home and as I turned and got on the gas a little and all of a sudden there was a pop and my car couldn't go in gear when I release the clutch. Luckily I was close to home and basically cruised in neutral. I jacked it up and found that my axle is twisted. Now I was aware the boots were torn before so I'm assuming the axle got screwed up but my other concern is, why won't my car go in gear? Here's the photo of inner CV. I'm hoping it's just an axle and not the clutch.
View 8 RepliesMy AC doesn't work right now, however, sometimes it works. It's very random, it doesn't matter if its hot outside or if its cool.
What happens is my AC clutch doesn't engage. when I turn ac on, it raises the idle for a second, and as soon as it does that, my ac compressor gets around 12 volts for less than a second, and the idle drops again. it does that in a loop.
My fans work fine, both high and low speeds, everything else works, all the fuses are good. I changed the pressure switch, didn't fix the problem. I also checked the ac coil and clutch. everything clicks and works. ground on the compressor is good.
Other odd thing - positive wire on the compressor constantly getting around 3 volts. What can it be and what else do i need to check?
My 2001 Golf seems like the clutch is slipping. It bangs into gear at low revs so bad you think you've hit a large pothole. I'm hoping it's not the whole transmission that needs replacing, because we only have 135000 on the clock.
View 2 RepliesI am not very familiar with transmissions and clutches, hence I just purchased a used transmission for my jetta 1.8t, i was told that i might as well do the clutch while the transmission is getting done. I just purchased the car two years ago and the guy said that he put a vr6 clutch in. so my question is, what exactly will i need to get for both the transmission and clutch replacement. Like I mentioned, I only have bought the transmission so far.
View 6 Replies Ive got a 2001 MKIV Golf GTI. Recently I've had some clutch problems, I kept returning to the car and finding the clutch on the floor. After a tow My mechanic managed to get it back after a lot of pumping and messing around, and told me It needed a Slave Cylinder. So that night after driving home (clutch wasn't feeling good) I came out and found the clutch on the floor again.
So I went out - got a new genuine slave cylinder and replaced it myself. But now I cant for the life of me bleed the clutch - I've bled brakes plenty of times but never a clutch. I am doing it manually, I've read online some guides.
1) Crack the bleeder & push pedal down... because its got that spring, it stays on the floor.
2) Close the bleeder, pull clutch up with hand...
Ive been doing this over and over and over, but nothing happens... fluid isn't even coming out of the bleeder. Im guessing this could be because the slave has no fluid in it and there is an Airlock?? I want to try to avoid getting another tow truck.
I was just curious, is running stage one clutch with f21 turbo kit. I would like to know if it will hold up as long as I don't launch...
View 2 RepliesI have a 2003 2.8 GLI and my compressor clutch will not engaged i provided the clutch with a direct power and ground from the battery and it engaged. i also went to the junk yard and got a couple of Fan Control Module ($4 each) and it still does not engaged.
View 3 RepliesI just finished installing a new clutch kit on my 2003 Jetta Wolfsburg Edition 1.8 and I have absolutely no pressure on the clutch pedal, I am pretty sure I installed everything correctly. How do you bleed the clutch lines, how do you know if the slave cylinder is bad. When i push the clutch pedal it just goes to the floor with absolutely no return.
View 4 Replies