Golf IV / Jetta IV :: Cluster Is Not Working / Sometimes No Gauges Or MFA
Jul 20, 2014
So I have been having issues with a cluster in a car I recently bought. Sometimes it works fine, sometimes no gauges or MFA, sometimes just no gauges. All of the dummy lights work, and the odometer has power, although it does not seem to record miles when the cluster is not working.
I checked for power, good. Looked in the Bentley for grounds, there are 3. Terminal 9&24 and a sender ground, terminal 7. 9&24 both show continuity, but I get zilch on the sender ground. Tried looking in the wiring diagrams and google but I cant figure out what a sender ground is or if it should have continuity?
Next step is to try another cluster, but I don't want to go through the trouble of switching it to a new cluster if the ground is bad.
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out of nowhere the right side of my cluster stopped working. The speedometer is completely dead and when ever i go around a cornor my gas guage drops to 0 and beeps. I haven't changed anything with the car and the only thing i e messed with recently was the valve cover.
Is there any wires close to the valve cover that could cause the cluster to short only on the right side?
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So I just got a new car tonight (01 Jetta 1.8t) traded my tdi for it. They failed to tell me about the lighting problem. The dash light (blue ones that light up whole dash) only work sometimes. Don't work when headlight switch is on (have euro switch) but they will work sometimes if you put the left blinker or hazard lights on. Illumination for window / lock controls are glowing red, same as all the buttons by the vents up top of the radio, ac / climate control lights not working. They did end up telling me that they swapped the other car they had (2L golf mk4) and they swapped in that dash and it worked no issues. Do I need a whole new cluster?? Or is there something I can try to fix it?
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This is on a 2001 golf, 5 speed, ALH.
Just went for a drive the other day and the ABS light started to flicker on, and then it was accompanied by 3 loud beeps, which I understand is the ABS warning.
Then the gauges all died like I turned the car off, but the engine was still running. No limp mode, no stumbling, nothing.
The needles then bounce back to where they should be, and various lights on the dash flicker, oil pressure, battery, etc. Not any pattern to them, they all just kind of blink on and off randomly. Then it will stop and run fine for 20-30 minutes (longest I have driven it like this)
Sometimes when I put the key in the on position before starting it, the gauges will do the same thing, without the beeping, and it is like I am cylcing the key on and off several times, needles on the fuel and temp gauge bounce between zero and their actual reading (other gauges don't move because I'm at zero rpm and zero mph)
I have replaced fuses 11 and 15, checked battery voltage with the car off, idling and at 2000 rpm, 12.3 volts with the car off, 14.3 with it idling and at 2000 rpm
The cheap code reader at the parts store gave me a P1650 code, which is intermittent communication error on canbus (paraphrasing) which makes sense for the symptoms, but I know on these cars sometimes a totally different system in the car can interfere elsewhere.
I am going to check/clean grounds, what else should I be looking for?
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I have a 2001 Suburban 2500 4WD. When driving over any bumps, the gauges go to 0 (all gauges, speedo, tech, fuel, temp,etc.) and the battery, abs, and airbag lights come on. It is just an intermittent problem. Everything immediately comes back up until the next bump.
Note: nothing else is compromised (headlights, radio, performance, etc. are not affected)
I have taken the cluster out and "bounced" it around in my hand while the truck is running and cannot duplicate the problem. I have check ground wires and battery cables.
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So I'm getting ready to do some repairs on my Yaris (almost 200k miles, clutch went out recently, have a kit on order). Driving a manual without a tachometer us dynb, so I've been looking into third party tachs or replacing the stock one with a different cluster that includes one.
Specifically something like this one: [URL]
I don't know if this would be a drop in replacement on the hatchback or not though. 07 hatch replace your panel with an OEM from another model that includes the tach?
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Currently my gas & temp gauges do not work, so I assume the cluster is shot or needs fixed etc. my question is can I simply replace it with a used one from eBay, or do I need to send this one back to be programmed? I was reading about the immobilizer which I assume the 2003 is subject to as well?
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have a 2000 golf TDI 5 SPD Manuel. Was driving into work today and I got on the gas a bit and all the sudden the battery light comes on I hear the beep dash noise and my guage cluster shuts off. I pull into work. Car seems to be running fine.. All belts intact. battery brand new. Car starts and operates fine. At idle dash works. But when I tap the accelerator pedal that's when dash shuts off and battery light comes on. Bizarre. I checked a few fuses not exactly sure which one would be bad but. I didn't see any popped ones. I did notice that my top cluster of fuses all the connecting points are browning but fuses are good. So I am not sure if it was already like that....
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I started the car one morning after it snowed. the red "BRAKE" light is constantly on and while the car is moving it beeps which is extremely annoying.. I have tried:
-Topping off brake fluid
- another ebrake sensor (under the center console)
- brake pads have plenty of meat on them
- brake light are working
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I just bought a 2002 Jetta 1.8t today and have a few questions for some of you with vast knowledge on these cars.
1) When I lock the car the interior lights don't turn off, and about 5 seconds later the dash lights turn on. I sat outside in a lawn chair and waited 10 minutes to see if they would go off and they didn't. Would that be a faulty door switch or the CCM acting up?
2) Doing a 3" catless downpipe with 3" straight pipe?
3) Are there any major issues I should look out for? The car seems to be in pretty good mechanical condition, minus a loose exhaust hanger that rattles at idle. Not bad for 119,00 miles.
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I'm finishing up the install of my sequential shift light and I integrated it into the oem gauge cluster. [IMG][/IMG]
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2001 Jetta 1.8t... Recently made a change in the engine head because in broke the timing belt and had to do valves etc., the car was without power(battery disconnected almost a month), now when it start, a light(symbol orange)comes in the cluster and the engine shuts off, what is causing this problem.
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I just picked up an '03 Golf and decided to put in the euro switch I had from my old Jetta. When I turn the headlights on (either parking or full) the instrument cluster blue back lighting and the red interior LEDs work only sometimes. When they work, they all work, but probably about 9 out of 10 times, they just won't come on at all, so I have to sit there turning the switch on and off repeatedly until they do come on. What could be causing this? It's definitely not a fuse since they do come on eventually, so my first thought was maybe a relay, but which one? What else could be going on?
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The cluster works fine in the car. MFA works. The immobiler does activate but my ecu has an immobilizer defeat so it doesn't kill the car. I'm not having any of the usual issues with cluster swaps. I'll get the immobilizer issue recoded later. My issue is with the fuel level indicator. I have half a tank of fuel and it is reading full. I've researched and found out the r32 has 2 fuel sending units and this may be where the problem is. If so is it a matter of re-adapting the cluster or is it slightly more complicated than that?
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So, before we diagnose further, i have my fuse #43 pulled because that has been the only thing that somehow magically makes my car run when its not plugged in. I believe I've been dealing with a bad distributor and haven't come up with the funds yet to mod it for a v6 mustang coilpack.
BUT as the title describes, this just started happening today. The cluster wont turn on, fuel pump is cranking over, and the starter will whine as it cranks but no spark. Is the distributor getting that bad or am i looking at something worse?
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I am going to remove my Instrument Cluster for an illumination LED changing, to convert them to the white colour. I found out that Immobiliser is located on Instrument Cluster, is there anything I have to be careful?
It's 1999 Bora. I think Immo 2 on it.
I found one Thread that someone had the problem with Immobiliser after cluster removal (it was also for LED job), a car was not starting, he suffered some time tried lots of things, but then everything went OK, even though he wasn't sure what was wrong.
So, do you think there is a high potential risk to take it out? Do you think I have to cut battery connection beforehand?
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I have a 2004 F150 (New Body Style) with 5.4L 3v and about 266k miles. My Alternator finally bit the dust and my instrument cluster went from reading speed, temp level, odometer, RPMs to being blank and all needle gauges bottoming out on the "0" side. Removed Alternator and had it tested, found Alternator Failed tests. Ordered and Installed New aftermarket 110a Alternator. Battery was fully charged (13v) and passed load test out of the truck. After installation, started the truck with no problem, instrument cluster gauges all read normal when turning key to on position, after starting and let run, instruments and gauges blacked out and returned to "0". Battery was reading 13v and with truck running read about 17v. What could be causing this?
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I have a 2000 f350 XLT SD v10 gas. The radio works, the heater works and the power windows work too. It's just the cluster. Lights work in the cluster it's the gauges are dead truck starts fine.
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Just started happening today. Dash cluster beeps, all warning lights flash, then gauges and lights go dead while under acceleration or cruising. Upon stop and return to idle the dash starts to operate properly until I take my foot off the brake pedal and start to accelerate. Tried searching and didn't find anything. What are the possible causes?
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I've got a 2002 jetta. new ecu, new cluster, new keys (new to me from a 2010 beetle) all installed but my windows, door illumination, locks and electric mirrors dont work. Windows will go up and down with key in door, and locks work that way as well. if i put my old cluster back, everything works fine.
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I am having a slight issue with my cluster. When I turn the key on or start the car, the speedo needle goes crazy for about a minute then stops above 0mph (points at 5mph when im not moving). While that's happening, the other needles don't work until the speedo normalizes. It also does this when i turn the car off. What this could be? I heard about the VSS can cause speedo issues but what about the rest? I also heard the mk4's can have cluster failures. it's a 99' mk4 vr6 jetta 5spd.
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