Golf IV / Jetta IV :: Chokes The Power Past 3500 RPMs And Continue Running Rough
Mar 29, 2016
I own a 2001 Jetta GLX 12v VR6, lately the car has not been running well. It chokes the power past 3500 rpm's and will continue running poorly and sound sort of like a Subaru boxer engine. Sometimes it corrects itself and runs okay but goes back and forth.
I ran the codes on VAG COM:
6 faults found:
17551 - Load calculation cross check
P1143 - 35 - 10 upper limit exceeded - intermittent
16712 - Knock Sensor 1 (g61)
P0328 - 35 - 10 Signal too high - intermittent
[Code] .....
I ran VAG COM a couple of days before these codes came up and I had a different code dealing with air/fuel mixture, something about fuel running to rich. I'm stumped.
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So over the last couple of days my GTi has been hesitating as I accelerated past 2500-3500 rpms so I took it in to the dealer this morning to have them look at and sure enough, it had blown an Ignition Coil.
I know this was a common issue with the 1.8l Turbo engines but I thought this had been corrected in the new models.
I have a '10 GTi with 14000 km's on it and some mods (see signature). And no, they didn't comment or ask about the APR chip or intake.
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So,I have a mk4 GTI vr6 . I've got an idle that moves about 25 rmps up and down. As well as the throttle hesitation between 2.000 and 3500 rpms only at mid throttle. Has a kinda new maf. That I cleaned. clean THrottle body kinda new coil pack and wires , new plugs. Tried a lot it all worked but it's still there.
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The wife's Jetta wagon has been giving us some issue. It is a 2001 2.0 AZG engine auto trans wagon. 195,000 highway miles and well serviced and taken care of.
Here is the symptom : Engine will NOT rev over 3200. It will hit 3200 and stop dead. This is the case either in gear and driving or just sitting in Neutral. The engine seems to take a bit longer to start but does every time. The car seems to run great other then the 3200 rpm ceiling.
Wife has been driving it around like this for a while and I have let the codes accumulate. Here is the codes it gave me.
16727-cam position sensor- I just replaced the CPS with no improvement, issue is still there and code still pops up. I was told this code comes on when the car does not fire on the first rotation anyhow so it could be something else.
16804-cat o2 bank 1
16990-ICM issue
Cleared the codes and restarted the car. 16727 comes on immediately but other codes take a while to come on again.
I am leaning towards maybe an electrical issue? Bad ground, alternator output or something. Any tips on places of ground, connectors etc to clean and check? Also one or two guys keep mentioning coolant temp sensor and crank position sensor...but wouldn't those toss a code too?
I also pondered a plugged cat but I dunno, have had that before and you can usually tell right away...the car runs great until it hits 3200 and it is like a governor kicks in and she stops dead at 3200.
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I have this problem with my 2001 Santa fe 2.7 Lt auto done 326,000 km no power on hills sometime want rev past 3500 revs and sometimes will rev past this, it seem to get worse when fitted new fuel filter in the tank? have put new filters and O rings in injections, have just fitted new coils and the cat has no restriction. Starts first time but did have trouble the auto would not start in park until pulled top cover and got it out of park and started it in neutral changed the trans fluid and seems to move through the selection better. Could it be the fuel pump??
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It feels like I have zero back pressure until I hit about 3500rpm. The car kind of struggles and chugs a bit until it hits the power band and then it takes off like everything is normal...
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Just drove home with the AC on full blast in 100F and the fan did not continue running at all when I shut off the car. Every other car I have had with an electric fan keeps the fan going for some time to cool the engine.
I had my car in to the dealer last fall and they did a body control module update that I thought was going to fix this. Although it did manage to kill the sunroof closing VAGCOM hack, it did not apparently fix the coolant fan issue.
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I made an earlier thread about minor low speed crash and airbag deployment that has sense been fixed.
The engine 2.0 (AZG) will rev to 3000 (3200 sometimes) RPM and stop. This is only if you give it about 20% / 25% throttle. If you give it full throttle it spits and sputters. When I had the airbags installed. The codes were read it and also came up for cam sensor and o2 changed that and now the codes are gone. No CEL and it is exact same issues still. I can't tell if ECU is doing it but it feels like it's not getting enough gas or air since full pedal makes it stall.
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My golf 2.0 vw isn't doing so good right now. It has 227000 miles on it. It has been driving great, and then last week it started to idle rough. It idles between 600-800 rpms. it fluctuates between 600-800 rpms. It had the check engine light on before this happened i was told by my brother that it was an 02 sensor. I had it checked for what is causing the engine light to come on today at o Rileys, and it came up with 11 codes. Some of the codes where 02 sensors, it was running to rich, needed a new computer, evaps system, fuel pump, fuses, coil pack, spark plugs, It shakes when you sit in it when it is idling like not a bad shake but a small one you cal feel, l'm including a video of it running.
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So my new problem is cold engine starts If it's mildly cold out like 30-40 F or 0-10C and has been sitting awhile the car won't start on the first couple of tries. It tries to start but I guess chokes/sputters out like its not getting enough gas. Warm engine it starts instantly.
I put a bottle of gumout regane fuel system cleaner in the tank hoping its a dirty fuel system seeing it feels like it chokes out on gas during the cold start. I'm about half way done that tank and was going to add another bottle on the next tank.
I'm worried about the cold winter approaching and found out issue 8001 today that the oil pan heater is ripped off with broken wires and missing cover.
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The problems seems to be getting progressively worse, it has a rough idle and when it smooths out is only at about 600 rpms and still sounds strange. Also, I am running extremely rich, blows flames quite often and in OCMD I went 100 miles on a half tank. Car is stage 1 unitonic with sai and evap deleted. I changed the maf and that didn't change anything. I was searching for vacuum leaks yesterday and noticed that one of the vacuum caps I have on the bottom of the intake manifold was dried out so I took it off so i could put my finger over it and see if it ran better, when the cap was off it ran great but when I put my finger over it it would go back to an awful idle Now when I come to a stop it will sometimes drop the rpm so low that it shuts off, when I am driving you can't tell a difference.
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I dont know if this is related but my ignition switch went a few weeks ago, I got the part in the mail this week and was planning on changing it today, but a few days ago my 99 Passat v6 started bucking, kinda like it did when i needed motor mounts...but my engine is really weak and rough. I opened the hood and saw that my air filter hose was disconnected right after the MAF (or at least i think its the MAF).... I don't know how long its been sucking up dirty air. but does that sound like they are related? a friend of mine said if i can see the butterfly valve in the air hose, open it up and spray a can of carb cleaner in it, put the filter back on, start the car and let it run, then do it again with another can and it should fix it. I cant see the butterfly air valve in the hose, since the hose goes down behind the engine. Should i just spray it in anyway? or does have to be press on the gas pedal...
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I don't own a VW, but my friend does, and she knows absolutely nothing about cars. She drove me home from a friend's house today, and I noticed her car was sitting at insanely high RPMs, even though we were only going like 60-65. The car was ranging from like 4500-5200rpms the entire way home, and the engine sounded like a lawn mower.
Don't know many details on the exact model of 2002 jetta it is (I'm a subaru guy) but it's an Auto. I was convinced she had it in 3rd the entire way instead of drive. I asked and she said it was in drive, but I was sitting in the back so I couldn't quite tell. Not sure how being in 3rd works on an automatic, but she could still come to a full stop. The car was pretty much constantly sitting at above 3k whenever it wasn't at a full stop though. Like, after letting of the brake at a stop light, and pressing the gas, it'd pretty much immediately flick up to 3k and never go below.
So, not sure if this is normal for these cars, but I thought it'd be worth asking since it would suck for her if this could have been fixed earlier. My subaru sits at 3k when I hit 60, and only hits 4k if I'm going like 80, so I just thought this seemed pretty weird.
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Random rough idle about every 30 seconds at low 700s (rpms) and it'll bounce up and down a little. The code was p1515 (No CEL or other lights have come on yet) which is something about the intake manifold valve and there is an air-shooting noise that is pretty loud but just sounds like air that's being lost somewhere like maybe a leak and that happens when i rev right before you can hear the engine rev the air/shooting noise occurs. I don't really think I'm losing power but I got the car recently so maybe I am and don't notice it. If this is a common leak or something with the intake manifold valve let me know,
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I have been beatingy head against the wall for the last month with this car. It started out by just running really rough and stalling out. Found out that I had a bad clamp on the air intake that attaches to the throttle body. Replace that after I already replaced the MAF. Everything was great till couple days later then the car just crank crank crank no fire....
I cleaned the grounds pulled the plugs and coils, had perfect spark. Put everything back come to find out after going thru my Bentley manuals I jumped around the fuel pump relay fuel pump kicked on perfect started great! Replaced the fuel pump relay BAM! Ran great!!!! For 2 days..... After that right when I pulled into the drive way the car would not start.... So I tried everything again.... To no avail..... Check the codes again, now I'm throwing these codes which yes I did cross reference in my Bentley manual.
P1117- O2 sensor heater circuit bank 1 sensor 2 short to ground
P1198- O2 sensor heater circuit bank 1 sensor 2 electrical malfunction
P1472- EVAP emission control LDP circuit short to ground
P1516- Intake manifold changeover valve circuit open
And the dreaded same code I've had the whole time........
P0102- Mass or volume air flow circuit low input.
I have also tried tracking down any bad wires, and testing resistance...
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the last couple weeks the engine has been running poorly, rough idle .... and sputters until about 4k rpm with a noticeable loss in power. No clue what it is ... it seems to spring up after I got a coolant hose leak on top of the motor.
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My 04 EDGE 3.0 when sitting in Park will not rev up past 3500 RPM. The check engine light has been on for awhile showing P0316 and I believe P0302. My mechanic said number 2 is misfiring; the coil packs/wires/injectors are all good. He said eventually if I want to keep it a new engine would be needed, but as long as it's not burning oil it should be okay to drive for awhile. Why it won't rev up? I wouldn't think one cylinder misfiring would cause that.
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I was driving along the highway cruising at around 100 km/h when out of nowhere the car started driving a little rough so I look down and the ASR (traction control) light was on. I got off the highway, shut it down and fired it back up. The ASR light was off and car running like normal. When I got home I scanned it and these codes came up:
The catalyst code if from my catless turbo-back exhaust which I plan to fix next month with a tune. Anyway I cleared all codes and continued on my way without any other hiccups. So is my MAF sensor dying/dirty? ECU? N75 valve? Boost leak? I'm making a boost leak tester today just to 100% eliminate that variable, though I'm fairly certain I'm good there.
The car is mostly stock except for a few bolt-ons, all of which I've had installed for thousands of kilometers now. Here is what isn't stock, not including suspension, wheels, etc:
Forge 008 diverter valve
034 Motorsports PVC silicone hose kit
Samco boost hose kit
Forge silicone turbo inlet pipe
Eurojet SMIC
custom built 2.5 stainless, catless turbo back
AEM Dryflo short ram intake
GLI MFA cluster
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I just replaced my injectors in my 12v vr6 and now having some problems. Mainly having issues with start up. Having to feather the gas to get it to start and still runs rough for a min or two.
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So the Jetta started running rough, then stalled after starting. Couldn't drive it home so I had to tow it. Got to the house and read codes. It gave me P0135, P0171, and P0321. I researched and saw that the only code of these three whose symptoms included stalling was P0321, so I replaced the Crankshaft Position sensor. Tried starting it, and it wouldn't start at all. I kept at it for a while thinking it would catch, but after 5 minutes the battery was too low to crank. I tested the old crankshaft sensor, and had resistance of about 900 ohms, so it was in range. For giggles, I pulled the new one and checked it, also in range. I put one of them back in, and proceeded to scratch my head. Charged the battery up, and now not sure what to do. I need to do a very close hose inspection, but there are no obvious tears or breaks.
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My 03 civic will drive fine when the engine is cool. But after getting off the highway, or running it at higher speeds, when I put it in gear, any gear, it will start choking and bucking like its running out of gas. Once I get it above about 2000 rpms, the choking stops. The read out said it was the egr valve at first, we had it cleaned, but it didn't fix it. The readout now says recirculation insufficient or something like that. I'm wondering how serious this is, and if I should be driving it.
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