I have a 2001 jetta 2.0 engine with only 130k on it. Yesterday I replaced the battery and everything was fine but then today as I started it up to go to work I started moving and the check engine light was flashing for catalyst damage. I heard that sometimes coil packs will pop if you change the battery.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2002 VW Golf, with 203,000 miles on it. The check engine light is already on because the cat has worn out. I'm saving to buy a new one. However this morning about 5 minutes into my trip to work my check engine light flashed a few times. After pulling over and turning around to go back home the flashing stopped and the check engine light went back to be solid. Could the worn out cat have caused that? The car seems to run like normal. I did feel a little something when the light started blinking, but then it went away. The dealership and my regular VW mechanic have both said that the car is safe to drive regarding the catalytic converter until this winter when I get my tax return back. I have very little money right now for a repair. I should have more in a couple of months. The only thing that has caused the check engine light to blink in the past was the ignition coil pack. The car is on its third one and I know that feeling, this wasn't it. Plus I just got a new coil pack in June 2014.
View 16 RepliesGot this engine code error, how to proceed?
I have a '00 accent, just purchased a few days ago from a private party, when I bought it, I had a mechanic look it over, gave me the OK and said it passed inspection, no mechanical or obvious running problems with the car.
So I was driving around yesterday and the check engine light came on, took it to get the oil changed because I wasn't sure last time it was done, had the oil changed, light stayed on.
So I took it to auto zone to read the error code, was given this information. How to proceed?
My question: was there some some OBD code or light I should have expected (that didn't show)? What did the flashing Check Engine Light mean?
At 10:30pm last night, I picked my wife and bro-in-law up from the Logan airport, and on the way to drop BIL at his house, I saw a brief whisp of steam/smoke rise from the passenger side hood/wheel-well when idling at a top-light. I exclaimed that the car was smoking, but BOTH my wife and BIL insisted that we had been stopped over a steam grate. (In 70 degree weather? I puzzled, but since BOTH said that had been the case...).
A few minutes later, the check-engine light flashed (three times, I think) and then went off. I drive with an OBD ScanTool attached on the dash, so I immediately switched it to scan the codes, but it reported "clear" / no codes! Either immediately before or immediately after, the car lost accelerating power for 1 or 2 seconds (at most), but then resumed normal driving. No other dash lights were on, though I did not look at the temp gauge.
I am a former chef and professional cook, and have a VERY sensitive sense of smell-- there was NONE; I watched attentively, and the absence of further smoke/steam seemed to support the unseasonal steam-grate hypothesis. I had also picked up the car within the last 24 hours from THE HONDA DEALERSHIP, who I had asked to look everything over to ensure another 6 months of problem-free driving. (I rejected their offer of a $249.00 "triple flush" of transmission, brakes, and pwr steering.) We have otherwise had zero problems with the transmission or cooling-- the car is old, but maintained reasonably well and driven less that 5000 mi / year. Boston driving, but not aggressive or 19 years old!
No further thought, as all seemed okay except for the brief "blip", and pregnant wife, brother-in-law, two dogs, and I all wanted to get home.Drove the 2ish miles to our apartment, with no further blips. At a stoplight about 3 blocks from home, a LOT of smoke/steam started coming out from the hood. Still no lights or OBD codes! At that point, I pulled over within 5 seconds, and noticed that the temp was pinned or nearly so (If there is supposed to be a light on the gauges, I had it all the way dimmed). Looking under the hood, the spray pattern on the hood insulator made it easy to find the split in one of the hoses connected just under the distributor (about 1.25in OD; I'm guessing coolant or transmission, based on the symptoms??).
While waiting for a tow-truck (since I wasn't even sure if it would do any damage to drive the remaining blocks to my driveway), and after things had a chance to cool a bit, my wife restarted the engine for a second so I could check if any additional fluid came out of that split, but none did. Once the temp was back down towards the low end in 20ish minutes, I drove the car about one block so I could stop blocking traffic-- it drove fine, and the temp didn't visibly rise in that 200 yards. Still, the CEL was not on (or flashing) during startup or while running, and there were NO OBD CODES.
Check engine light flashed for a very brief period, car ran very rough, and then check engine light (exhaust system malfunction) stayed lit. Took to dealer this AM and service advisor asked that I bring it back on Monday morning (loaner promised) but in the meantime, I could continue driving it unless the engine light started flashing. Car is now running okay, but last night it seemed to be running on only 6 or 7 cylinders. Only 93 or 94 octane gas is used and I've owned enough German cars to know how the gas cap should be tightened. Seemed like an oxygen sensor malfunction last night but now I'm not certain.
View 15 RepliesI bought my Jetta almost a year ago, and I've been constantly replacing parts. Unfortunately, my engine misfired twice and the CEL has come on for P0420 which is inefficient catalyst. This is the only code being thrown. I've cleared it like 10 times, but it keeps popping up.
View 9 RepliesMy 1999 Camry with 169700 miles has this 'check engine light' code: "Catalyst system efficiency below threshold". We have a mechanic we trust so we'll bring it to him this week. We spent a couple thousand fixing this car about two years ago and I'm not sure it is worth doing that again. Carmax offered us 1200 for it around this time 2012.
View 17 RepliesI have a 2006 F-150 with the 5.4L. I got the check engine light and the computer says catalyst deficiency bank 2. So I assume the passenger side converter is blocked. Is there anyway to either take out the cat and replace with a piece of straight pipe and bypass the o2 sensors or take the cat out of the housing and put the housing in and then bypass the o2 sensors.
View 14 RepliesI got a 2013 Turbo. This morning I gave it 90% throttle and I got shaking, check Engine light flashed on and stayed on until I layed off the gas. It drives fine under regular throttle, but for ie. Passing someone on the highway.. Yeah ain't happening, idk if it just won't downshift, or the turbo is acting up.
I have an Injen intake and Had it installed since day one or two of ownership. Bought the car brand new, it has 43k miles, and I usually give it WOT a few times a day ()
But it's weird how all of a sudden it's doing this, I tried restarting the car, leaving it to rest for a while and same result. I personally think it's the tranny not being able to downshift, even holding a gear at high RPM, it shakes. Turbo sounds like it's working fine but who knows what's going on under the hood.
99 Ford Ranger 4-cyl. Check engine light is on; pulled fault code: "catalyst efficiency below threshold, bank 1." Cat converter is new as is rest of exhaust, o2 sensors are new, and its been recently tuned up.
View 6 RepliesI had the transmission filter and fluid changed at the local VW dealership had some issues with that but they straightened that out and its been fine for a while well then about 2 or 3 weeks ago i was trying to mess with an audi and hit the gas (has the 6 speed auto tranny) and the car kinda stuttered and the check engine light flashed probably 4 or 5 times then went off, it did that a few times after that then my wife was driving it and it did that stutter again and the light stayed on, the code said misfire on cylinder 2..
So I replaced the plugs today and it did fine at first but when i got to about 55-60 and went to speed up and it started to miss pretty bad then steadied out and sped up. no check engine light or anything but it was missing.
2011 eb just turned 36k. Today on breezeway it shuddered like it swallowed a bird, and check engine light flashed on. Went to see customer left and light was off. Back on breezeway and shuddered on entrance ramp so this time I stayed into it so either there's a light that will stay on or just launch it and this time the dealer will have something to fix that they can diagnose. Check engine light is on its fine as long as I stay out of the pedal. Still have 8 months left on power train warranty but what am I looking at for a diagnose, there is definitely a problem now. What the dealership should see?
View 7 RepliesSo for the past few weeks my check engine light has been on. I have a mechanic friend that scanned the computer and says i have a running lean code.... says it could be anything. So i have been driving the car since and now the epc light and drive train lights are coming on... car revs up and down and sounds like is going to die... got the car scanned and says something about the throttle position sensor... before all the lights started coming on i got my fuel pump replaced..... could a faulty fuel pump be the cause? I had my mechanic, clean the throttle body and it ran good for a few days... now the problem is back... I have a 2004 1.8 gti. Do i have to replace the throttle position sensor? Fuel pump again? New throttle body again? I read somewhere on here that a guy replaced some wires near the ECM and the problem went away...
View 7 RepliesSo I get back from being stationed in Korea for the past 2 years. I get my car out of storage and the check engine light is on. I scan it and get P0601. I do some searching on the Tex and see that it's the ecu. I'm tuned on APR. the question is can I take it to a local APR dealer here in Houston and get the ecu looked at?
View 6 RepliesI'm new to the VW world and just bought a 2002 Jetta 1.6SR about two weeks ago. I just realized that when I turn the ignition on before cranking, all the lights come up except the CEL and traction control light. There are no codes stored when we checked it with a scanner. I took apart the cluster today to check if someone had taped in front of the LED but there was nothing, and the LED was intact, it just won't light up! I put everything back together and when I turned the ignition on.
I realized that the traction control light came on for the first time but still nothing for the CEL. I turned ignition off and on again, this time both the traction control and CEL didn't come on. Whenever I unplug the cluster and install it again, the traction control light will come on once, then if I turn the ignition off then on again, it will stop working. I even removed the MAF sensor to test the CEL but it never came on! All the fuses are intact as well... So my question is, is this a faulty cluster, LED, or is something wrong with my ECU?
Getting an emissions code. I deleted the emissions with the delete kit. Used the plug in resistors that came with the kit that is supposed to keep the cel off. Here's the code.
P1426 evap emission system purge control valve circuit open .
So I heard from a friend you can use a 330ohm 10w resistor to bypass a check engine light cause from deleting the evap and SAI? I have an 03 gti 1.8t
The buddy that told me drives an 01 gti vr6. He wired the resistor to the evap sensor and it cleared the evap code but now Has a code for the SAI. Any information on how to do this to my car successfully (1.8t)?
MK4 GTi - My check engine light came on a few days ago and when I checked it, it pulled code P0420.
Just this morning, the check engine light went away.
Is this a common issue? Or should I go get it checked just in case?
So my gf's check engine light on her 01 Golf flashes once in a while, and it misfires. But the thing is, it doesn't stay on, and it's once in a while (like once or twice a week). She has new spark plugs, and new wires. I have a feeling it's the coil pack, but I really don't know if it needs to be replaced until the check engine light actually stays on.
View 14 RepliesJust a few days ago I was driving and I noticed as I went over 35 mph my car would stutter and the check engine light would start flashing. And when I slowed back down the car drove fine. I'm wondering what the problem could be? Feels like the car is losing power. Car is currently at 119k miles.
View 1 Replies2004 VW jetta 2.0 ... So my vehicle stalled on me i replaced the battery, the alt, and then when i started it after installing the new alternator it didn't sound right so i checked it out and saw a spark plug wire was in very bad condition and was causing a spark where the spark plug and the spark plug wire connect so i bought a new set of spark plug wires and swapped the old ones for the new ones. Now when i start my vehicle the check engine light is blinking and the car definitely does not sound right. i am positive i did everything correct when swapping the spark plug wires but i am lost as to what could be the issue.
View 1 Replies