Golf IV / Jetta IV :: Changing The Color Of HVAC Controls
Jun 23, 2015
I know it's just one bulb behind the fan speed control knob. I also know (or was told, rather) that the lighting color is red because of some red plastic doo-dad. What I don't know is whether or not this plastic is red because of a film or coating applied to clear plastic or if the plastic itself is red.
I work at a graphics shop so I've got translucent vinyl film in various shades and tints of blue. If it's a film or coating applied to clear plastic that makes the lighting red, I could probably remove it from the plastic and apply a blue film. I'd really prefer not to take apart the dash to remove the HVAC controls only to find out that I'm stuck with red lighting.
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Question to those that have the car - is it possible to change the display colour of the radio? Can it be done via MFD?from the "white/silver" "buttons" to darker "buttons"?
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So after owning my 2012 for 2 days I've pretty much got the stereo all figured out. (usb ftw) Now I'm trying to figure out how to use the hvac controls. Is auto the best setting? If I set the temp to 20c/68f will the car just keep that temp year round?
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How difficult is it to change the bulb(s) for the dome light in a 05 GLI (mine is burnt out). Also the lights behind the HVAC Controls is burnt out as well, so is that difficult to get at and fix. I wouldn't think those would be on the same fuse cuz all the other interior lights work and everything, but I don't know.
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Bought a used 2000 Jetta, 2.0L AEG engine by the looks of it, 188k miles. Previous owner told me he did a bit of work on it, and acknowledged the coolant leak - have to fill the overflow ball about once a week. He said he recently replaced the timing belt, water pump, and tensioner pulley. Not sure if that has anything to do with it.
From what I can see it seems to be leaking at the outlet flange (see pics of rust).
Would any of this cause the water in the overflow ball to be rusty yellow (see pics)? Should I just go ahead and replace the ball and then the o-ring at the outlet flange?
I'm new to VWs, but am up for a bit of work to make sure it gets to 200k miles (bought the Bentley manual).
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I was just wondering if it's worth the hassle to change the interior light color on the cluster, etc from green in my 09 to the bluish white seen in the 2010 & up models as I much prefer that.
Also, I have tinted my tail lights but I have some creasing from the curved shape. I plan on removing it & starting again but I was just wondering if there were any tips or tricks to make it a bit easier?
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My left HID lamp started to flicker quickly a month ago. It seemed like it was a loose lamp housing connection when I hit bumps. I took the housing out, coated the connections with electrical grease and fit it back in tightly. Now a week later the lamp changes to an amber tone after it is lit aprox. 10 secs.
Does this indicate the bulb is about to fail? Is this a common issue? 04', so I know it is out of warranty and I am sure the bulbs aren't cheap. I even did the vagcom mod to save the bulbs during the day
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When my hvac controls are turned to hot, I'm getting only luke warm air. When moved over to cold it feels like the a/c is on...granted it is 21 degrees here. What I've done so far:
1. Flushed the coolant system at the local COOP TBA
2. Flushed heater core-Both heater hoses are hot to the touch as well as the heater core itself. The hoses are within 10 degrees of each other tested by an infrared temp gauge.
3. Verified the blend door actuator is moving. I can see it spin while attached to the box as well as I pulled it out and plugged it in it will move from hot to cold.
4. Smacked the #$%! out of the blend door box.
The fan still functions as it should from low to high. The truck also gets up to operating temp as usual.
Is it possible the actuator is still faulty even though it moves and not going all the way to the heat side? I considered picking up a replacement but I hate to start throwing parts at it.
Did the blend door give up? The snow is here and I need the heat for those 4am waterfowl hunting trips.
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In the sticky post on the LED lights and how to change them. I was able to open the radio and removed the 8 green caps that was covering the radio's blue LEDs. I love the result.But the front of the HVAC knobs still shows the retro cyan color. I think it's the same blue LED with the green rubber cap over it. I tried opening it but failed. I didn't want to break anything. I want to go back and take a look at it again.URL...(Yes, the neo wedge bulb on the HVAC position indicator (left-most; Off, Low, ..., High) is out, I need to order some more. Originally, they were orange I think. I prefer blue. The green indicators in front are working fine.)
I had the bulbs replaced more than a year ago, but now I'm tired of looking at the retro cyan color. How to open it without breaking the parts inside?After unscrewing and taking the center console out of the car, I am able to isolate the radio unit from the HVAC controller unit and open it to reveal the circuit board, but I could not separate the HVAC knobs from the board. I don't know if the HVAC are soldered to the board or not, so that's where I stopped.
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I have never seen a car with more electrical problems in my entire life. Everything is wrong with this thing. Driver door controls don't work. The only way to get the driver door to roll down is if i take the positive of my battery and put it back on, boom window rolls up and down for 10 mins and than stops working. It literally seems like if i take the positive off my battery it solves all my issues and everything works. The car wont even start in 15 degree weather. I don't even want to know how long it will take me to start this thing in -30 weather. Its got a very loud knocking noise in the right rear. I Haven't been able to go to school for a week cause the thing is stuck in my driveway.
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I have a 73 f100, I want to paint it the color of a 2004-2015 the factory grey, this color or was there a darker grey
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I have a 2003 1.8t awp head that needs replacing but can't find one with that exact code of awp! My question is can I just buy another 1.8t head with a different code?
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My car is a 2.0 AEG manual for reference.
So, my alternator died last night and when I changed it this morning, I fired her up and now when I turn my light switch one click I can see my high beam light illuminated on the dash. If I have the switch on any setting, it's illuminated but no lights are on out front except the dtr lights. Turn signals work fine and so do the brake/tail lights. I checked the fuses for both low/high beams but they were fine. I saw someone mention an ignition switch while I was searching but I'd rather get other opinions whether it is that or not.
Edit: My original test drive the car ran fine minus the headlight issue. But upon driving it through the city when I was coming to a stop at a redlight the battery light came back on and it died. It fired right back up and barely made it across the street to a parking lot before it died again. It'll fire up but won't stay on. On my way to an parts store for charging system check.
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I was wondering if it would be just a plug and play to exchange manual a/c controls to automatic climate control thingie. Id expect CAN coding but im just wondering if i could just bolt on and code or is there way much more to it like additional control module and what not .... maybe even not possible at all.
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So I have a 12v vr6 jetta and I really want a better exhaust with a nice clean and loud growl. My friend has a mk5 with a full Apr exhaust that sounds absolutely amazing and I want it to sound like that and I am willing to change my rear valance to the later mk4 jetta style if needed.
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I own a 2000 Jetta auto with 200k on it. I have the same problem. It wouldn't change gears till 4000 rpm i scanned it. And got the cods g38 and g68. So I changed both. It was working fine then again same thing it works then stop works. So scanned it again and got same codes changed them again worked fine then stopped working so I took it to vw and they told me same thing same sensors and the wire harness so I changed them again got the parts from VW this time. It was working then stopped. And when I turn on the car and drive my gear box display goes all black for at least 10 min driving then goes back to normal. But sill doesn't change gears. Now not even after 4000 rpm. Ps. When I do it manual 1st gear 2 and changes fine once I put it on drive doesn't not change gears.
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Reprogramming my key for my 1999 mk4 jetta. Recently the battery died on one of my key fobs and the other fob that i have has been dead since i bought the car. i put new batteries in them both now. I have one flip key and the only other key i have is the valet key. How I could re program my fobs?
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I recently changed my battery and now my auxiliary doesn't work. I have read that it's simply changing a code with program. Vagcom-(VCDS)
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I'm having some electrical issues with my 04 jetta and have no idea what is wrong. This came up recently after changing the solenoids in my 09A tranny (side note: tranny works now ).
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I recently replaced the whole head and head gasket on my 2003 jetta 1.8t and it is still overheating so I have to replace either the thermostat, cooling fans, timing chain, or water pump. I have $700 and they said they can fix it for that. So should I spend my $700 and hopefully the problems go away or should I just try to sell the car as is and try to squeeze as much money out of it as i can?
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Got a 02 Jetta 1.8T 5spd auto tiptronic with 100k miles. Having issues with shifting. Trying to determine if its electronic or mechanical. Had a short in solenoid 10 N283 which melted the TCM. Put in a used N283 to see if the trans is still ok mechanically. Plan is if its ok to put new fluids and solenoid pack. What do the experts think does is need a full rebuild or will new electronics do the job?
After putting the used N283 solenoid the trans works but not correct. The problem is in the shifting only. Feels like its out of time. When you start moving from a stopped position from 1st to 2nd the car takes off good but when changing gears it reves and feels like its slipping then it hits hard into 2nd. Then 2nd-3rd is a fast shift and not hard. 3rd-4th slips and revs a little then changes gears 4th-5th is fine. all down shifts are fine. Does not mater if the car is hot or cold its the same.
If I disconnect the MAF 1st to 2nd shifts fine with no problems. 2nd-3rd little rough but not bad. Problem with disconnected MAF when going in Drive at 30-40mph all of a sudden it jumped into 1st gear and felt like I was slamming on the brakes.
With the MAF connected and I shift manually in tiptronic mode each gear runs real good with no slipping at all. But same problem happens when switching gears. I can drive it smooth if i accelerate to 3000 rpm and then left off the gas a little and it shifts fine.. Same with the other gears.
I got a used TCM to rule that out and the problem is close to the same. It tries to shift at lower rpm but still does about the same problem. I did recently had a MAF go out. Put in a new bosch and no change. Did my VCDS scan and only codes I get is "17840 secondary air". I can get operational data on some solenoids but not sure what parameters to look for.
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