So I have a 12v vr6 jetta and I really want a better exhaust with a nice clean and loud growl. My friend has a mk5 with a full Apr exhaust that sounds absolutely amazing and I want it to sound like that and I am willing to change my rear valance to the later mk4 jetta style if needed.
View 3 RepliesI'm looking to upgrade my exhaust system. From down pipe on including a cat. P-chip and p-flow air filter installed on GLI
View 5 RepliesI am thinking about changing out the whole exhaust system heads all the way back to replace my annoying glasspack setup that came with the truck when i bought it. its a 95 f150 5.0L im thinking about getting hooker headers [URL] .....
And that's as far a i got because i want duel outs but don't know what kind of cat i need and what kind of muffler. and even more which brand of muffler because i want a really deep tone but not extreme loud. How to put this exhaust system together?
I'm upgrading my head lights and added a euro switch. I need to splice into some wires. I want it to look clean and waterproof. I'm looking into t taps or a quick splicing terminals that go directly over the wire when closed it splices into wire leaving male end to hook the new wire up too.
View 4 RepliesI had read in the forum that there is an aftermarket upgrade available that modifies the older ML system for Bluetooth, MP3, etc. best way to modify or upgrade the ML system.
View 6 RepliesI have a 2009 SEL 4 Motion w/ RNS 510, MDI.
I am very happy with the car apart from the quality of the sound system. Coming from Audi, BMW earlier being used to their premium systems, the Dynaudio in the Tiguan is not doing it for me. There is the lack of midrange dynamics and no punch in the low tones. What would be the best way to increase the quality w/o paying too much? Also, where in the Pennsylvania/New York area are there good shops that could do such job?
My fiance just bought a 2006 Avalon. Unfortunately she bought it certified used and it did not come with the JBL sound package. She is allowing me to upgrade her stock sound system.
What is the maximum size and mounting depth of the front and rear door speakers. Looking on Crutchfield, I would guess that both front and rear are 6-1/2" but I really need to know the mounting depth.
Is there any way to replace the stock nav system with something that is easier to use and more up to date and works? I did upgrade the disc and it's still a pain to use. My Iphone does a much better job, is easier to use. Also can upgrading the stock suspension on a 2003 SC 430, I got it a couple of months ago with 24000 miles but would like better handling but would like to keep the ride decent.
View 3 RepliesI just got a brand new 2008 F150 supercrew FX2 last wed. I love it, it's my first truck ever and I'm excited to drive it. I wanted to change the exhaust to something that has a low rumble and is deep, not too loud or anything.
View 1 RepliesWant to install exhaust system on my 06 F350.Tell me,what is the best brand for my truck,I know, very good intake system is from K&N,what about exhaust?
View 10 RepliesI am in the planning stages of installing / upgrading my X's sound system. This isn't the first time I've done an install like this before, but am running into a bit of trouble with the steering wheel controls.
I know there are options out there as far as interfacing, but my problem is finding the other harness. To be more specific, I know if I pull my radio out, there are 2 harnesses back there. One is the one you get the kit and splice the after market radio into the factory harness. EASY I Know.
Now, need a harness that plugs into the other plug? I'm not a fan of cutting/splicing into factory wires. Most of the steering wheel control kits just require you splice with 2-3 pins on that other Plug and you should be set. I'd really love to just have another adapter that plugs into that harness so I can connect what I need.
I have a 2003 1.8t awp head that needs replacing but can't find one with that exact code of awp! My question is can I just buy another 1.8t head with a different code?
View 4 Replies My car is a 2.0 AEG manual for reference.
So, my alternator died last night and when I changed it this morning, I fired her up and now when I turn my light switch one click I can see my high beam light illuminated on the dash. If I have the switch on any setting, it's illuminated but no lights are on out front except the dtr lights. Turn signals work fine and so do the brake/tail lights. I checked the fuses for both low/high beams but they were fine. I saw someone mention an ignition switch while I was searching but I'd rather get other opinions whether it is that or not.
Edit: My original test drive the car ran fine minus the headlight issue. But upon driving it through the city when I was coming to a stop at a redlight the battery light came back on and it died. It fired right back up and barely made it across the street to a parking lot before it died again. It'll fire up but won't stay on. On my way to an parts store for charging system check.
I own a 2000 Jetta auto with 200k on it. I have the same problem. It wouldn't change gears till 4000 rpm i scanned it. And got the cods g38 and g68. So I changed both. It was working fine then again same thing it works then stop works. So scanned it again and got same codes changed them again worked fine then stopped working so I took it to vw and they told me same thing same sensors and the wire harness so I changed them again got the parts from VW this time. It was working then stopped. And when I turn on the car and drive my gear box display goes all black for at least 10 min driving then goes back to normal. But sill doesn't change gears. Now not even after 4000 rpm. Ps. When I do it manual 1st gear 2 and changes fine once I put it on drive doesn't not change gears.
View 7 RepliesI know it's just one bulb behind the fan speed control knob. I also know (or was told, rather) that the lighting color is red because of some red plastic doo-dad. What I don't know is whether or not this plastic is red because of a film or coating applied to clear plastic or if the plastic itself is red.
I work at a graphics shop so I've got translucent vinyl film in various shades and tints of blue. If it's a film or coating applied to clear plastic that makes the lighting red, I could probably remove it from the plastic and apply a blue film. I'd really prefer not to take apart the dash to remove the HVAC controls only to find out that I'm stuck with red lighting.
Reprogramming my key for my 1999 mk4 jetta. Recently the battery died on one of my key fobs and the other fob that i have has been dead since i bought the car. i put new batteries in them both now. I have one flip key and the only other key i have is the valet key. How I could re program my fobs?
View 2 RepliesI recently changed my battery and now my auxiliary doesn't work. I have read that it's simply changing a code with program. Vagcom-(VCDS)
View 9 RepliesI'm having some electrical issues with my 04 jetta and have no idea what is wrong. This came up recently after changing the solenoids in my 09A tranny (side note: tranny works now ).
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I recently replaced the whole head and head gasket on my 2003 jetta 1.8t and it is still overheating so I have to replace either the thermostat, cooling fans, timing chain, or water pump. I have $700 and they said they can fix it for that. So should I spend my $700 and hopefully the problems go away or should I just try to sell the car as is and try to squeeze as much money out of it as i can?
View 7 RepliesGot a 02 Jetta 1.8T 5spd auto tiptronic with 100k miles. Having issues with shifting. Trying to determine if its electronic or mechanical. Had a short in solenoid 10 N283 which melted the TCM. Put in a used N283 to see if the trans is still ok mechanically. Plan is if its ok to put new fluids and solenoid pack. What do the experts think does is need a full rebuild or will new electronics do the job?
After putting the used N283 solenoid the trans works but not correct. The problem is in the shifting only. Feels like its out of time. When you start moving from a stopped position from 1st to 2nd the car takes off good but when changing gears it reves and feels like its slipping then it hits hard into 2nd. Then 2nd-3rd is a fast shift and not hard. 3rd-4th slips and revs a little then changes gears 4th-5th is fine. all down shifts are fine. Does not mater if the car is hot or cold its the same.
If I disconnect the MAF 1st to 2nd shifts fine with no problems. 2nd-3rd little rough but not bad. Problem with disconnected MAF when going in Drive at 30-40mph all of a sudden it jumped into 1st gear and felt like I was slamming on the brakes.
With the MAF connected and I shift manually in tiptronic mode each gear runs real good with no slipping at all. But same problem happens when switching gears. I can drive it smooth if i accelerate to 3000 rpm and then left off the gas a little and it shifts fine.. Same with the other gears.
I got a used TCM to rule that out and the problem is close to the same. It tries to shift at lower rpm but still does about the same problem. I did recently had a MAF go out. Put in a new bosch and no change. Did my VCDS scan and only codes I get is "17840 secondary air". I can get operational data on some solenoids but not sure what parameters to look for.
I tore it apart and there was no gasket or donut ring in the flange. Is there supposed to be a gasket or donut ring? I can feel the leak with my hand. I have retightened & it still "tick-ticks" real bad.
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