I was riding along today everything running fine then I came to a stop sign and when I pulled off my car wouldn't run 10 psi of boost it was only running 5 psi so I when to a buddys checked everything over and all my piping looked fine so I went up the road and everything was fine so when I started going home it did the same thing pulled of shut the car off pulled off and it was fine again.
View 5 RepliesOkay so I bought this car and a week later tranny wouldn't shift out of first when I would slow down or at least it would take a min. I would hit 4or 5 grand then it would jolt me back. It wouldn't do it every time though. I bought it to go to college drove it the 900 miles on the highway and had no problems except right before I left town but then fine. All I did was change the tranny fluid before I left which I can confidently say I don't think has been changed before that. stunk bad bud no metal.
Alright now I'll go jump in the car to go to class and it will not leave first. If I put it in the manual mode it thinks it's in third but clearly if in doing 15 mph at 4000 rpm that's not the case. It doesn't do it every time. Kinda hit or miss. After driving for a min it usually shifts. Sometimes I make it the two miles without it shifting though. Also sometimes It will shift but once I slow down it won't shift out of first again.
I have seen a code for torque management since I bought the car. The check engine light is on now but I haven't seen the torque code since I change the MassES. that's not to say it's not still there. I used a different handheld computer for the check engine light the last time I did it and I could have missed it because I was unfamiliar with it. I have put a mass airflow sensor, battery, alternator, and changed the tranny fluid since I have owned the car. drained 3L of tranny fluid and put 3L back in. Oh and the last time I checked the light it said lean in bank 1 but I was assuming that was an unrelated issue.
Just as I was talking up my 03 jetta with 250,000 miles to a buddy, it developed a problem. It started to take a while to start, and wouldn't rev over 3000 while driving. (like all the other posts, would just die at 3k). So, I installed new Crank and Cam position sensors. Started up...a little stumble...running. Take it for a drive and able to rev over 3k rpm. Now it just spits, sputters, dies, stumbles.....push in clutch, engine dies....???? I know i will have to probably take it to VW for them to check it out....
View 6 Replies03 Jetta 1.8T AC is giving me fits. When the compressor comes on the AC is nice and cold. Problem is that it isn't on very much. Today was a good example. No AC for about the first 30 min drive to get an oil change (local driving). Next 40 min highway drive, AC only got cold for the last 20 minutes and then started to warm up before I got to work. Drove to auto parts place at lunch, AC cold from start to finish. No AC all the way back to work.
So, this evening I started the car with the hood up and watched. Compressor wouldn't engage. Pushed the AC button a couple of times and clutch engages. Compressor stayed on for 7 minutes and ice cold air. Clutch then disengaged and immediately both fans went to high speed for about 5 minutes with warm air out the vents.
Fans cycled back to low speed and compressor clutch engaged again for about 2 minutes this time. Fans to high speed again for 3 minutes, then compressor engaged for only a minute. Each time the compressor shut down, both fans would go to high revs. The minute they would go to low speed, the compressor clutch would engage and I'd get nice cold air..
Just had the expansion valve replaced and r134a charged by and AC shop last week. I have had the on/off AC problem for months and then could not get the compressor to engage at all for about one month. Of course, just as I was getting to the shop, it started blowing cold air.
Not sure whether I'm looking at an electrical problem or what. Just seems odd that both fans suddenly speed up and slow down and the compressor engages only on low speed.
The only other odd thing I've noticed is that cold or hot, as soon as I turn the ignition on (engine off), one fan continually starts cycling on and off. It does that continuously. I've checked the fuses on top of the battery and they all look fine. No appreciable drop in RPMs when the compressor engages. Fan control module?
I was driving today and my cruise control light came on and wouldn't turn off. i vagcom'd the car and a code came up which was:
Cruise control switch (E45): Implausable signal
P1569 - 35 - 10 ---- Intermittent
I tried clearing it but it would but the light remains on. I noticed that when i hit the RES button on the stalk, the light goes away and when that when I scanned the car and held the RES button the code would come back. My cruise control also stopped working.
My wife drives a 2002 Golf 2.0L with about 214k on it at the moment. It runs really well and I'd like to keep it that way. Last week she told me that the car wouldn't start sometimes and that she would hear a buzzing noise when she turned the key. If she turned the key off and then on again the car would start. The problem was occurring more consistently as time went by and sometimes she would have to try to start the car four or five times.
I took a look at the car and her description was correct. The 53 relay under the dash was buzzing once the clutch was depressed and the key was turned, but the car wouldn't start. I took out the relay and put it back in and the car started fine. I swapped it with the other 53 relay in the panel (dual horns), and started the car a bunch of time with no problem. Then I gave the car back to her to drive to work. Everything was fine for a while.But now the problem is starting to return.
2003 1.8t gti ... Today when I got in my car...it fired up perfectly normal but when I got in it from leaving school it took 5min to fire up. The engine turned over but wouldn't fire all the time as if the spark plugs were bad. So I bought new NGK spark plugs and had the same issue just a little bit ago.
I know the obvious thing would be to change the ignition coils but they're out of stock everywhere so I have to have them shipped. My question is is the ignition coils the problem? They looked a bit worn but nothing serious.
my car into VAG COM and since then it hasn't boosted past 4 lbs. it has Revo stg 2, K04, aftermarket side mount, full exhaust and a couple other bolt ons. Before the car was spiking at around 23/24 lbs. after pressure testing the system I found that the turbo inlet pipe was lose, so I tightened it. Still no change. I tried holding the battery terminals together for 10 minutes to reset the ecu and I also tried clearing the codes through a handheld code reader. No codes even come up anyways for this. The car is a 1.8T.
View 4 RepliesSo my 2001 1.8t Golf is having some issues holding boost. I have a Gonzo stage 2 tune, CTS FMIC, Forge 008 Diverter, Silicone inlet and MagnaFlow Exhaust. I've also done the whole Evap, SAI delete and installed a catch can.
Starting in 2nd or 3rd at WOT the car spikes up to 18psi and then progressively loses boost throughout the rev range. Close to redline the boost drops to 5 psi or so. It seems to be dependent on the revs. In fifth gear the car holds 18 psi much longer as the revs don't increase as fast.
There are no CELs. I've done multiple leak tests starting at the air box and plugging the pcv/catch can system as well as at the compressor side of the turbo. None of the tests revealed a leak anywhere in the intake system. However, when I stuck my ear very close to the valve cover I could hear what sounded like a very small air leak coming from inside the valve cover. I took a look at the wastegate actuator and it seemed fine, no play in the rod, no loose bolts and to move it just requires enough force to compress the spring and it returned to its original position.
My thoughts are that it could be a fueling issue or turbo in the process of dying maybe.
Just noticed today that I have a slight drop in boost. Normal boost is 1.5 bar but today it is running slightly lower boost and does not have the same pull through all the gears.
2001 mk4 1.9 tdi golf
I just recently notice a whistling noise when I hit boost. I'm not sure but it sounds like it is coming from my gauge. I'm not losing boost pressure. I do have a glow shift gauge. The most recent install was the TIP which I clamped on to the turbo but I'm wondering if it isn't on tight enough.
View 2 RepliesI think my stock DV is going bad, my car makes a weird noise under boost?
1. Only happens when first starting the car after it has been sitting for an hour or a few. (not overnight)
2. Does NOT happen when first start in morning.
3. Goes away after like 5 minutes every time and the normal WHIIISHH sound comes back like it should when I step on the gas.
4. It does not make the sound at idle.
This recording I made was of my car being revved up after it sat for one hour.
[URL] ...
Replaced my coil packs/sparks, and just got around to changing my N75 valve today. The rough idle issue is gone but now when I go WOT it boosts but goes from 15psi-12-13-12-14-12...etc. I've checked and there are no boost leaks. I do have a CEL saying I need a new bank 1 sensor 1 Oxygen sensor. If it is that, why did this problem arise as soon as I changed the N75 valve and wasn't present earlier?
View 1 RepliesI was having an issue with my car not going into boost so I plugged my code reader in and it had 2 codes 1 was p1200 n249 malfunction and the other was diverter valve malfunction so I did the quick easy one and got a new factory diverter valve but it still doesn't go into boost and still reads p1200 n249 what do I need to replace or should I do the n249 bypass it's a bone stock jetta 5 speed.
View 5 RepliesI just got done with a complete engine rebuild on my 02 1.8t jetta, had everything hooked back up and went to start it for the first time and it wouldn't. I went back looking for loose connections, nothing. Worked and banged my head for a day or two, I had fuel and spark but couldn't get it to fire. Finally I "choked" the intake to see if it was getting too much air and it fired right up. I unplugged my map sensor giggles and it starts up perfectly. I then hooked everything back up and what do you know it starts up and runs fine, but if I plug the sensor back in it kills the motor after about 10 seconds of running and won't start until I unplug the map again.
Car runs and drives but wont boost over wg pressure but that's probably because sensor itself is unplugged. I just wanna know what could cause it besides the sensor itself being bad. I ordered a new one waiting for it to get here (hoping it fixes the problem).. And I'm talking map (manifold absolute pressure) not maf (mass air flow), just in case people are confused.
I got a Mk7 in October and my Mk4 has unfortunately been parked since. I started it and let it idle to warm once a week or so when I went on Vacation for 10 days. Before going on vacation I moved the car and after warming up everything seemed to be normal. Unfortunately I neglected it once I got back and haven't started it since the beginning of December. I'm selling it here soon and so went out to spruce her up tonight and upon trying to start the battery was dead so a buddy came over and jumped it.
It started right up but immediately was idling funny which I assumed was because of the cold (it's 25 degrees F tonight and has gotten in the negatives in the past few weeks due to snow storms). I shut it down and checked the fluids which were all pretty low especially the oil due to a small leak. So I topped off the all the fluids and started it again and let it idle to full warm.
I decided to take it for a drive around the block and it was still driving pretty rough, no knocking or anything but the engine was "sputtering" and the CEL was on and flashed when I gave it gas. I'm running stock boost so my gauge usually reads around 12psi but is now only going up to 3-5 psi and the vacuum is only at -15 which i think used to idle at -20. I drove it to the gas station and filled it up from a little less than a half tank but it's still running the same and there's a slight burning smell from the exhaust.
I was worried it was my turbo but it was perfectly fine a month ago. I was thinking of throwing some Seafoam or Heat.
Okay, here's the car
AWP 1.8t mk4 GTI.
- stock DP
- Forge 007 splitter adjusted 25 clicks
- Swiss cheese stock intake with k&N high flow
- APR stage 1 93 tune.
My boost gauge is currently reading peak of about 15-16 psi. I replaces some vacuum hoses that appeared to be worn, and to no avail. I have no CEL, and no codes thrown at all. This sound like a boost leak.
I just replaced my my k03s with another one with only 20k on it. After I did this, I noticed a loud screech sound when in WOT. The screech lasts a little bit after i left off the gas when revving in neutral. I've been doing research on here, and I've read that it could be a boost leak somewhere or even the turbo dying. The shaft play is minimal though.
View 17 RepliesRecently got my VCDS USB cable that I can use on the newer 1.8T Jettas and I haven't found a measuring block for boost or MAP data. My Scan Gauges don't give a MAP data field either for the 1.8T engine, while it does for the TDIs.
Where do I find this data? Surely the ECU monitors boost?
Couldn't find anything while hooked up to the Buddys Passat 1.8 that we did a TB and thermostat on yesterday.
Ok so my 2002 gti is having some boost problems... Instead of hitting boost consistently the boost is fluctuating for example hitting 12 psi then 15 psi and it just hits and bounces back to 0. what could be problem I was thinking bad downpipe, bad waste gate, or bad n75 valve.
View 6 RepliesBought a 1.8t 04 gli. Was boosting 15 pounds so i did a boost leak test. Found pcv up hose from valve to y pipe at valve cover was almost blown in half, so i replace all of that stuff with oem.
Boost leak test again, found where boost gauge is hooked up to, turbo outlet to n75, the hose was leaking, i fixed that.
Boost leak test yet again, n75 was not clamped down, so clamped that.
Boost leak test one last time, held 10 psi before blowing the cap out of the intake. Which is pretty dangerous, my cap is made out of a spray can cut in half. Sounds like a canon. Anyways i heard zero leaks.
So now I am boosting 18psi and holding perfectly fine. Why I am showing ZERO vacuum on my boost gauge??