Golf IV / Jetta IV :: Car Won't Shift Out Of Park When Turned On
Oct 27, 2014
I have a 2002 Golf GLS. About a week ago I was driving around like a raped ape and spilled some soda down the gear shifter. I cleaned it up and didn't think anything of it. Recently, now that it's been getting colder out I found that my car doesn't want to shift out of park when I turn it on. No worries, just did the ("Step on the brake pedal five times,
hold the brake pedal down, start the car, shut off the car, turn the key a quarter turn, move the shift lever between neutral & drive, start the car and then you can move it into drive.") and shifted into gear fine.
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So i was trying to adjust my freinds shift linkage on his o2j and i got a little ahead of myself and forgot to put the shift tower in the home position before making the adjustment. after i realized you can't shift into second ( either that or 2nd and 4th are extremely close together now and feel like the same gear ). I try to get it in home position even with the cables off ( did this for experimentation) and still wouldn't go into home position...meh. still have all the other gears including reverse .
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My 03 Jetta is having transmission trouble. It will shift from 1st to 2nd but wont shift to 3rd. It is an automatic 2.0.
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1992 Buick Park Avenue, Base. For awhile now I've had trouble shifting into park from other gears. Sometimes, it'll flow right into park without trouble. Other times, I have to work it, to kind of baby it in. However, it simply will not shift into park from reverse. Period. If I'm in reverse and want to park, I have to go into drive, neutral, etc, and then try to move it into park.
A mechanic I know looked at the neutral safety switch and thought it could be causing the problem. We figured it wasn't in the steering column or the cable to the switch because if we disconnect the cable, you can slide that lever all day long. So I purchased a new neutral safety switch and had him install it, but the same problem is there. Actually, let me clarify: while it was in his garage, with the old switch, it would no longer go into park at all, regardless (kind of decided to just stop altogether). At least with the new switch we can baby it into park, but it is basically back to where it was last week. He mentioned it might be deeper in the transmission, but that's out of his league.
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Today, without explanation the shift indicator on the dash on my 98 Passat Wagon highlights all gears. When you shift to any gear. . . . the display does not change. Further, shifting is rough from 'park.'
I noticed this problem after looking at all the fuses to see why the radio was not powering up. I have checked fuses. . . . and unplugged the battery and plugged it back in.
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My Jetta is leaking gas like a sieve when the fuel pump starts. Its pretty obvious where its coming from. What this part is called or if there is more to it than just replacing it. Its coming from the round looking part on the fuel rail. Let me know what you think.
2000 Jetta 2.0 GLS Manual
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I have been trying to tackle my AC problems for quite some time now...I noticed my AC was not working properly a little while back, so I ran the diagnostics on climatronic. It came back saying AC high pressure switch. I replaced that -- still nothing. I continued to run more diagnostics. My fans run when the car heats up, so its not overheating, but when I turn on the AC, no fans come on automatically. I jumpered the fans directly off the battery and they both work on both speeds. When I hook it up to the thermo switch plug, it only works on low speed. I replaced the FCM, which had a lot of corrosion on it -- I Even had to run repair wire for 2 of the pin ports. I Jumpered the compressor too, and it seems to have kicked on as well. Even if the compressor were bad, wouldn't the fans still try to run when AC was on.
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I've recently had some problems with my 2000 Jetta VR6, so in the past couple months I've replaced the alternator and the coolant flange/thermostat housing. I bring this up because right after i finished fixing the coolant leak, i got a check engine light. I had screwed up, though, and switched 2 of the spark plugs when i was putting things back together and I assumed that was what caused the CEL to turn on. I put the spark plugs back in the right place after a minute or 2 of confusion... but the light has stayed on for about the past month. Got it to turn off by unplugging the battery for a bit, but it came back on after a couple minutes at idle. Took it to Autozone... and the P1116 code that pops up says "O2 sensor heater circuit open bank1 sensor 1." I feel like it was probably something that I have done to cause this problem, not actually just a part I need to replace based on the timing of the CEL.
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So I go to start up the old girl the other day and she turned right over, ran for about 2 seconds, and shut down. I tried to start it again with the same result. When I turn the ignition forward, before starting it, this image with a car and a key below it starts flashing on the gauge and the odometer starts flashing "service". I tried using a different key with the same results, what this might be?
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I only see this issue after I've been driving a while and I've just topped off. I don't always use the same octane, (I'll use higher octane on long drives) so I may be mixing octanes on these occurrences. But I will have a problem getting the car turned over after filling up. I hold the starter on and pump the gas to get it started (maybe 5-10 seconds).
2.slow BEV engine
2004 GL
107K miles
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2000 VR6 automatic. Yesterday my car was stuck in park couldn't move the shifter . Figured it was the brake sensor switch when the brake is engaged food pedal lights do not go out, I replaced it this morning but still won't work I've been driving it around in limp mode?
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My 1.8T with auto trans is stuck in park. I've read that the likely culprit is the break light switch but before I order the part and install it I wanted to check what else it can be because it was working fine before I fixed some coil wires. Basically I unplugged the ECU and tested continuity from the coil connectors to the ecu connectors.
I found an issues, resolved it, plugged everything back in, fire the car up, turned it off, re-installed all the covers, etc. Then I repaired a broken wire in the trunk lid wiring that was broken. But when I went to back it out of my garage I couldn't get it out of park.
If it's just happened to go while doing all this other work then it's just a coincidence, but are there other things I can check based on the ignition work I've been doing?
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2001 Jetta GL, 2.0L, 170k miles.... It won't start and it's not likely the fuel pump. After the car has sat for a while, I hear the fuel pump spin up when I open the door. It turns over just fine. I pulled a spark plug, attached it back to the wire, held it close to the head, and when the engine turned over, no spark. Is that still a valid test for spark? I haven't had to diagnose a spark issue for so many years, I don't know whether that has changed.
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Why does my front windshield wipers come on when I turn on my rear defroster?
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Had an issue arise today where out of the blue my turn signal decided to turn on and stay on... and i do not mean it was blinking as if i was going to turn i mean solid on, no clue what caused the issue, the stalk is still in the middle position, and when i turn the other side on (passenger/right) it blinks normally, now if I turn the hazards on they both come on and stay on solid, this problem does not even stop when i pull the key out of the ignition, I have to remove the negative battery strap for it to turn off completely.
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This morning my cars battery was dead and when I tried to pop the clutch to start it it went into gear but nothing turned on. When jump starting the car it turned on I drove it for a little while and was idling when it shut back off (battery was dead again). I came back to the car in a couple minutes, tried to start it and it started right up. I'm not sure what to think of this.
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I was driving around and I got a low oil light flashing and it turned off straight away.
So I checked my oil. When I first removed the dipstick it shows full, wiped it clean and put it back and it showed empty.
I put have a bottle (small one can't remember size) of oil in. I drove around parked waited a bit, and it does this same thing.
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So my VR6 shakes quite a bit on startup and when I turn it off. I figured it was the dogbone mount. I did the clutch trick, jacked up the front end and engaged the transmission. Of course the engine shook a lot, in a forward to back motion, signalling the dogbone was bad. Shifts into and out of 1st and 2nd were pretty rough and i could feel it in both the driver and passenger seats during idle.
Well I just installed the ECS dogbone and while I can't really feel it much in the seats anymore, it still shakes quite a bit once the transmission is engaged. Low end shifts really haven't gotten much better either.
So I am thinking its either one of the other mounts, or the polyurethane bushing needs to be worked in. I am leading toward the former.
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Its a 2005 awp 1.8t gti with 180K stage 2 apr. When i tune the key to the accessories on position I used to hear the fuel pump priming but now I don't and the car wont start.
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I have a 2003 Jetta GLI. When i turn my a/c on some of the vents blow harder and colder than the others. Why that would be?
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I have 2002 2.0 Jetta that I totaled. I found a 2000 2.0 Jetta that had no engine or tran. I swapped the entire wiring harness with the engine and trans from 2002 into 2000. I even swapped the doors. The cluster, steering column and all. I am still in the process of getting a few parts to finish it up. At this point, the only thing not hooked up is the headlights and the radiator. I hooked up a battery and tried to get it to turn over today. I turned the key to the on position and the cluster did not do anything. The engine turned over very slowly in the start position.
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