Golf IV / Jetta IV :: Car Starts Rubbing In Winter
Jan 28, 2016
Have a mk4 GTi vr6 with long beaches with sit at an offset of 38. Honestly the offset thing confuses me quite a bit. I'm running 235/17/45 tires. I had my car lowered before the winter and I can only go so low before it starts rubbing. What size spacers i should go with to basically go as low as possible. If not as low as possible, I love a wide rear end so maybe poking in the rear end and lowered in the front for like a rake effect.
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Whenever I let off the gas there's a rubbing/knocking noise under the car, the sound will slow down as the car slows down but as soon as i press the gas pedal it starts again, it also doesn't do it if I am stopped and in neutral and rev the engine not sure what this could be?
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I recently lowered my mk4 golf with coilovers, now the sway bar is rubbing on the right driveshaft axle... could I just get a small diameter driveshaft instead of getting sway bars? My driveshift is about 2 inches wide...
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Had the common problem of ARB rubbing the drive shaft after I lowered an extra 15mm - It didn't rub before I went this extra 15mm. I got adjustable drop links on and they also didn't work. I basically told the garage to sort it out and they put standard drop links back on (not genuine) and also new wishbones because I needed them. Got my car back and the rubbing was even worse. So I raised it back up the 15mm, to where it was before the rubbing started, yet it's still rubbing like crazy. I'm wondering if the new wishbones may be causing this because of new bushings or something and it all being tighter. And also what am I supposed to do? I shouldn't have to buy a whiteline ARB because it wasn't rubbing at this ride height before the wishbones and drop links were changed.
To summarize:
>Lowered car extra 15mm, rubbing started
>Drop links and wishbones changed, rubbing is worse
>Raised back to the point where rubbing started and still rubbing just as badly.
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I've got an 03 Jetta TDI 5-speed with 210k. I just replaced tie rod ends, ball joints, struts, shocks, springs, and bushings/bearings on the front.
After I took the car off the jack stands, I tried to reverse and the car is held in place pretty firmly. I gave it a bit of gas and it sounded like the brakes were rubbing. The brakes feel a little soft.
I checked the wheel clearance (I didn't lower the car) and everything looks fine. Did I pinch a brake line or something?
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While switching freeways yesterday and shifting down into 3rd before hitting the exit ramp I heard I a slight clunk, and then this continual noise began. I initially wasn't quite sure if it was my car or the sound of the of the large semi engine braking in front of me so I continued on to the freeway and was able to shift back up to 5th and get to speed.
However, I held back to around 60Mph because the noise started to worry me as I continued to hear it after passing the 18 wheeler semi. I got off at the next exit and noticed that the noise ONLY occurs when the car is decelerating. It happens in every gear as well as neutral; having the clutch in or out doesn't make a difference either.
*When accelerating in any gear, even the slightest bit, the noise disappears.
I've scavenged the forums to find a similar issue but to no avail.
I've uploaded a video that shows the issue occurring. The video is taken from the driver's side wheel, but the sound resonates throughout the front of the car, can't really pinpoint where though.
2002 Jetta 1.8t possible transmission noise
[URL] ....
2002 Jetta 1.8t ... 210k Miles
I've recently replaced the Control arms, outer tie rod ends, ball joints, springs, struts, all for rotors/pads, rear calipers, handbrake cables, timing belt (with pulley kit) water pump, etc. full syn Oil changes every 3k-3.5k miles, Premium petrol only.
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So I've had a low rubbing sound specifically when I'm turning or banking right. I don't want to put much more money into this mk4 because I'm planning on getting a new car in the next 12 months. How do I know which bearing needs replacing?
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My front left tire is rubbing to the point where I can feel it in the steering wheel slightly slowing the car down. This happens only going over about 40-50 and only when i turn the steering wheel like an inch to the left. To better clarify it doesn't rub while turning left going down a slope.
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I have a 2004 GLI that I just completed the slave cylinder on, after i got everything back together my driver side axle is now rubbing really bad on the sway bar where it connects to the endlinks. What could be wrong?
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I have the most terrible clunking/rubbing sound on my right passenger side, especially when I'm turning left. When I drive straight it sounds like the wheel is hopping even when going over minuscule imperfections in the road. I also get a terrible rub when going over speed bumps or into grooves and dips in the road.
I've searched and searched but cannot come up with a answer towards rectifying the issue. My car hasn't been lowered; I'm running the stop 337 suspension. I've replaced the following within the past two years:
-control arm bushings
-ball joints
-tie rod ends
-upper strut bushings and bearings
-passenger side axle
-dog bone mount
-engine mount
-tranny mount
Most recently:
-front struts
-sway bar end-links
-driver's side axle
It seems to like everything should be solid considering I've done all of this crap. I don't understand why I'm having this issue and why it sounds like it is getting worse and worse.
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I have a 2008 VW Jetta 2.5s. In winter i have noticed that my car takes too much time to heat up when the AC is turned ON. Generally, if i drive for 5 minutes and the temperature of the engine comes to the center ( in the temperature dial on the dash board), the hot air starts coming out. Is this normal. I haven't noticed this in other cars. Do i need to check anything?I do have the coolant liquid full.
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2000 Golf GTi 1.8t
Key fob has not worked for awhile so I use the physical key to lock and unlock the door. I locked the doors when I went to the movies last night come out and unlocked the doors as I always do, Get in and start my car and the alarm starts going off.
So of course I have a little freak out moment after about 30 seconds it went off. So I turn the car off and start it again same thing happened. I say screw it and drive it and the alarm shuts off once more.
I did notice when I got home and turned the car off the red light by the drivers side door lock knob was blinking.
I have looked all over the place and everything that I read says the car won't start. My car starts and drives just fine it's just when I first start it the alarm goes off for about 30-45 seconds.
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02 Jetta GLS Turbo 1.8. The car runs perfectly fine, and has good power, but one out of 5 starts at minimum it sets the check engine light exactly 6 seconds after starting the engine. It is most commonly a P0340 - Cam Position Sensor Circ Error, I'd say 70% of the time. The other 30% of the time it is a P0011 - Camshaft Position Timing-Over-Advanced. And once or twice it set a P0012 - Camshaft Position Timing-Over-Retarded. It will only ever set one of the codes. I clear it after it sets, and it will never set the code while driving the car.
- I've double-checked the timing belt, and it is spot on. Could not ask for a more perfect lineup of the timing marks.
- There is no noise or rattle on cold start
- The car carries good oil pressure and I'm on a fresh change with Pentosin 5w40
- I checked continuity on the outer two pins on the cam position sensor with a result of 1.910 ohms.
What I should be looking for next? Almost spent for a new cam position sensor, but hate to throw money if there is something I could test to narrow this down. I can't find any test procedures in the Bentley manuals, but maybe I'm not looking in the right spots. The index has no mention of the camshaft position sensor.
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I own a 2004.5 PG GLI. The vibration starts at 55mph and gets worse from there. 75mph and you can hardly hold onto the steering wheel.
Some history, I bought the car in feb of 2013. When I got the car it drove fine. It was super low so I raised it a bit. The trans had the input shaft bearing issue so I got a reman trans, while I was there I put a new clutch and flywheel in. Since then the car has never driven right, feels like the tires are really out of balance.
Recently I took the car to the place I got the trans from and they told me the motor mounts were not aligned right, the subframe was bent, the bushings in the control arms were not in correctly, and some other small stuff. Ok, no biggie...? I fixed all this and still have this vibration that I never had before. The tech also told me the alignment was way out cause the car pulls hard left when you give it a good amount of gas. I had the car aligned the day before..
At this point I had replaced:
Ball joints
Wheel bearings
Clutch, flywheel
Trans
Left axle
Strut bushing - usrt race
Now I am onto replacing the subframe and junk. Long story short here is my current list of repairs.
Trans
Clutch,flywheel
Both axles
3 different kinds of wheel bearings-*** are currently in.
Ball joints
Inner and outer tie rods
R32 Control arm bushings
Front rotors and pads
Caliper slid pin rubbers
Subframe and bushings
Coilovers- put konis on, took fks off
Pretty much I have replaced the whole front end. All repairs are done by the book, correct tq specs and replacing hardware when needed.
You're thinking tires cause I have yet to talk about them. I have two sets of wheels and tires. My aftermarkets are 18x8.5 and then I have the factory bbs. I feel the vibration with both sets, the aftermarket are slightly worse but the greater rotating weight with wheel and tire comb I believe is why they are worse. I have had the wheels balanced twice and the car aligned twice. I had the car at a very well known shop in md that works with vw yesterday and they where clueless on the issue. Said maybe wheels and tires but that did not add up cause they balanced out fine.
Nothing I have replaced has made the vibration better or worse. Can you install the flywheel 180 out? It was lined up and went in fine.. Clutch install went beautiful, trans install was normal. Whys the car still pull hard left after being aligned?
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I am having a no start issue with my 2008 golf city( it is a mk4 with a facelift) i have already replaced the ignition switch but the car still will not crank. it starts up easy if i get it rolling and pop the clutch but i cannot get it to crank. when the problem first happened the car cranked what seemed like halfway then stopped and now will not crank at all.
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When I parked this car 2 months ago it ran fine. Went to start it up and it starts and shuts down. I do not think its the security issue. Both keys do the same thing.
Battery is new recently. There are no MIL lights working on the dash except the battery light. The actual dash lights will not come on. Doors will unlock but not lock. My VAG tester will not communicate with the ECU.
I have checked all of the fuses multiple times. I can hear the fuel pump prime up when the key is turned on. It appears that there is an electrical issue. I took the connections off of the ecu, waited a bit, check for cleanliness and reinstalled also.
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I've been having 2000 Jetta GLS VR6. It has an automatic transmission and lately I've noticed that when I put it into Drive, it starts out in 3rd gear. In other words I've lost 1st and 2nd gear when put in Drive. When I manually put it in 1st gear with the shifter, I have 1st gear and all the way up to Drive. The issue just seems to be while in Drive (D)
I've tried the Automatic Transmission Reset :
[URL]...................
Perhaps I'm not doing it right as I can't seem to see any switch under the Gas pedal, just a round piece of plastic that protrudes an inch. I've even removed that and still see no switch.
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It will randomly not want to keep running when I goto start it so I just rev for a min and then it's fine after that. It doesn't happen to often. 2003 Jetta 1.8t
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I have a 2003 2.0 gas Jetta (181k miles, automatic.) that won't rev over 3k, starts rough, idles rough and wont stop setting a P0341 cam position sensor code.
The car was not running when i got it, i replaced the coil pack and it ran but not over 3k. Cleared codes, it sets the P0341 immediately.
Had timing belt, water pump, tensioner and cam pos sensor replaced. Still, sets p0341 code, starts rough, idles rough and wont rev over 3k.
The throttle servo makes a little noise when actuated, shop thinks this is my demon - suggests replace throttle body.
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My car will start the first time just fine but if I turn it off it won't start anymore it won't even attempt to crank ...
It does have a nasty grind noise before it starts tho idk if that could be related to it or not ...
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I'm going to preface this by saying I've already had the immobilizer problem and I know about the light on the dash of the car + key flashing when you try to start the car without the immobilizer chip in the key fob.
My car has been running completely fine, I go out to start it, it fires up then immediately dies. If I hit the throttle while it starts up it will rev up but still dies even if I hold the throttle all the way open. After doing some research I was pointed to crank position sensor. Bought a new one, didn't change anything.
The strange thing about it is ever once in a while I can get it to start up and then it will run for as long as I let it, so its obviously getting air, fuel, and spark. I have also disconnected the battery and left it for a few hours, didn't work either.
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