Bought lucas oil additive, but have not used it yet. Waiting to burn some more oil and a lower reading on the dipstick before adding the quart of lucas.
Or should I just oil change with some mobile 1 synthetic 0w-40 work?
Engines around 225k miles on it.
Ones moving I notice no smoke at all. Worn out rings? Valve seals or guides?
I have a 99 Jetta MK4 2.0L. I purchased it last month and have been having issues since.
First it was the coilpack that made my engine bog.. (at the time, my transmission was also clunking into gear, getting stuck in gears etc.) changed coilpack and it went away.
Then I had issues where the car would turn, but not start. Changed the Crankshaft Position sensor.
All was good again, then my transmission started to do the clunking (but no getting stuck in gear) and then i started losing power during takeoff.
Then it got really bad, I got home and tried to start it up again, i can floor it on the gas and the car will studder and bog out for a good 3 seconds, and then slowly accelerate into gear.
Some points i was in neutral trying to rev and it was bogging then also.
Btw, coilpacks were changed, all o2 sensors were changed, and the spark plugs have been done recently. Pulled codes,
- P0422 Main catalyst efficiency below threshold
- P0103 Mass or volume air flow circuit high input
- P1127 Long term fuel trim be system too rich
- P0715 Turbine/input shift speed sensor circuit
Also tested driving again, bogged out initially then started to move. Checked if i could get past 40km/hr and i hit 60km/h. After driving a little bit it seemed to be a little bit more responsive, but still boggy.
My 2003 VW Jetta TDI has a major problem. The engine has likely been damaged by an oil leak that was not discovered until the oil ran out. I now have much reduced compression (340lbs or less) and the car doesn't like to start in cold weather and when it does it smokes much. I need to know if it is worth rebuilding and, if so, where I might have this work done.
View 3 RepliesDoes your Golf R Rev past 5K when at a standstill in Neutral? I just finished installing the New South performance Gauge. I routed the boost line hose through the firewall. I used the supplied T fitting and replaced the stock one. I hooked everything up but the power for the boost gauge, just testing and checking everything before I proceed.
I put back on the battery without replacing the battery clamp at the bottom. But I connect and tighten the terminals. I am testing it now to see if all is functioning as it should. I start up the car, and I the vac sucks down to -10 PSI as I expect it.
Then I give it a rev to see if it will build boost. Almost immediately I notice a problem. Seems that the engine wont rev past 4-5K.
So I think, okay, well I probably didn't tighten it down properly, and I have a boost leak. So I pull off the engine cover, and put back on the stock hose. clamp it down, put back on the engine cover, and start the engine again.. The same thing... wont rev past 4-5
I look on the dash and two things pop up. one, the check tire light, and two the tires slipping light is solid. (I thought that VW didn't have active TPS sensors in the these cars anymore, but instead are using wheel rotation to calculate air pressure loss, if this is the case, then why would the check tires light just turn on when it wasn't moved. Could the fact that I disconnected the battery cause an issue? with this?)
I am still thinking boost leak. So I get some soapy water and spray around the only hose that I took off on all the joints, I put back the cover and connect the MAF again. then I start the engine, I figure a few revs will build enough boost to show any leaks in that area with bubbles. But no bubbles...
So now I am wondering if VW put a safety that prevents the engine from revving past 5k when in neutral. I would rather not move the car, until I know for sure that there is nothing wrong.
I got a VW Certified R32 back in August and I'm loving every minute of it! I just have two little issues. When I floor it from a standstill, the acceleration seems hesitant almost as if something is holding back the power until I hit about 3500 RPM there's a slight break (as if it were shifting but its in 1st the whole time) and then there's a lot more power available.
Also, when ever I'm shifting there is a slight delay between when I press the paddle or push the shifter. I push the '+' paddle wait half a second or so, and then it starts the shift sequence. Only seems to happen when I try to shift between 2k and 4.5k RPM (4.5k+, the second I hit the paddle it starts shifting). Is this normal? Is this because of the AWD(never had an AWD car before)? Should I complain to the dealer?
So my R32 just recently started to stall at any stand still longer than 1-2 mins with the A/C on. Every thing works perfectly fine as avertised as long as the engine has not warmed up yet, I am driving at a cruising speed, or the A/C is not turned on. I'm thinking the issue maybe be heat related causing the crank position sensor to malfunction. Is there anyway to check the cps with Vagcom?
View 18 RepliesSymptoms as follows: High RPM at idle (1100 rpm), colored smoke ( not white.....maybe blue/gray....hard to tell) from tail pipes during higher than normal rpm. No noticeable plume of smoke during spirited runs either. Only shows high idle symptoms/ smoke once heated up and running for a while. First noticed while stopped and idling for a spell. No CEL and have not ran it for codes. Cold start shows no smoke and normal rpm.
Vacuum showing 18-20" at idle. AFR kinda all,over the place....but nothing completely out of whack. Can't hear any exhaust leaks and turbo still spools up fine. All IC piping intact.
Noticed A Slight Hesitation On Take off?
View 23 RepliesI have purchased number 4024, in CW, and I am posting to ask about the transmission. During take off from a dead stop, the car tends to jitter. Not a fast repetitive jitter, more like a slow, stalling out feeling. a go stop go stop go stop go that blends in to each perspective motion. Now when I purchased the car, it had already been modified by member CWR32. The mods included GIAC software, intake, exhaust as well as suspension, bar, skid plate and all of that good jazz.
What I am trying to figure out is if any of your cars do or has done the same, either stock or modified. I have read something stating that the software controlling transmissions such as DSG determines how smooth the transition of gears will be. Is it possible that the tranny software was upgraded, is this tranny REALLY that clunky, does yours tend to do the same.
There is also a slight tendency for the car to jar roughly when put into reverse or first if i let off the brake quickly.
I've recently been hearing a grinding/vibration noise on takeoff. I only hear it pretty much as soon as my foot comes off the brake, when the car is in drive, and the car gets its first bit of forward engagement/movement. It seems to only happen when the DSG engages in drive, before I put my foot on the gas pedal.
The closest thing I can say it sounds like is an exhaust rattle, but way less violent/not metal on metal sounding.
When my car is cold... sitting 8 hours below freezing I've noticed until the car warms up I hear almost like a quick scraping sound when I take off from a stop or when shifting. It's almost like when the engine is put under load the movement causes something to shift and makes this noise. Any chance I have a loose mount or a portion of the exhaust could be shifting coming in contact with something?
View 13 RepliesI have a 98 Dodge Intrepid and it smokes when I pull out. I was told it may be the valve seals. Is this true? Could it be the rings? It doesnt seem to smoke when I go up hills just when I pull out.. Is there an easy fix?
What are some problems I can expect with this car? I have 107,000 miles and am wondering when can I expect the timing belt to fail? What are some things I may have to fix?
Let's change from conventional oil to synthetic nothing but the best for my old 65, c-10, 6 cylinder. Now she smokes all the time. Tell me it is not too late to switch her back to conventional oil. I have been told yes I can and no I cannot. What I may have done that can or cannot be undone?
View 10 Replies1995 Subaru Legacy wagon.
If I drive up a steep hill for 5-10 minutes, the engine will smoke copiously.
It's fine when I drive 200 miles over lightly rolling terrain.
The temperature gauge doesn't get above medium.
It's been doing this for at least two years (since I bought it from a friend).
What's the story?
So, I got stuck in standstill traffic for about an hour due to bad weather and wreck up ahead, and barely inching along the highway, I was surprised how fast the battery was dropping and having to turn on the engine to recharge it, killing the MPG; normal drive home I get around 50 MPG, it dropped to 38 due to all the idling. In such situations, just place the Prius in "Park" in order to shut down the electric motor (I'm assuming that's what park does) so it doesn't idle to conserve power? Would probably be an annoying way to drive regularly, but if you know you're gonna get stuck for awhile, I may try it next time...
View 19 RepliesI've been hearing a slight clunk when accelerating from a stop, a very faint split second clunk between in 1st year.
Last week, I pointed the noise to a technician at my dealer and he diagnosed it as the cam adjuster lurching backward as the car moves forward.
He replaced the cam adjuster and the gasket set (058-109-088-E, 058-198-217, and 058-198-025-A). When I got the car back, it seemed like he had fixed the problem. However a week later, the noise is back.
I have a 2012 Ford Focus with automatic transmission with about 22k miles on it. No check engine lights on. When accelerating from standstill it always stutters a little as if it's not really 'catching on' properly (just in "first gear" it seems). It doesn't do it once you're beyond 5 - 10 mph and it doesn't do it either when for instance stepping on the gas pedal while driving. Only from standstill. It also doesn't seem to go away when the car has been driven for a little while. It's always there. What could be causing this?
View 4 Replies I have a 2001 Accent, manual transmission 1.5L. The lady who had it before me overfilled it and stuffed the charcoal canister. She had this replaced, but when I bought it she reported that it still had a fuel issue immediately after refueling. She said it would stall and run rough and hesitate.
After I bought it I took it to refuel and confirmed the problem. I had read that the ECU may be trying to draw fuel through following refueling, but the new canister might be messing something up. She used to only drive it commuting distance in a city, so I took it for a long drive. Running at steady cruising state for a prolonged period seemed like a good idea, to allow any ECU learning. This partially fixed the problem! Now, most of the time, I can leave a fuel stop without a 20km drama before the car settles down, although the problem hasn't entirely gone away and it still does play up sometimes.
There's a more pressing problem which may or may not be related, however. When launching from idle, the engine goes through this 2-5 second hesitation of no power at all. If I rev up before letting the clutch out it's ok, but there's a certain minimum revs needed to avoid the problem. This is killing my clutch, and if I get it wrong it sometimes leaves me in the middle of a busy junction with no power for an uncomfortable period! During the hesitation, I've found the best way to force it is to put clutch back in and go full throttle. After 1 second or so the revs come back. The problem is much worse when the air conditioning is on.
So the clues are:
1. the previous charcoal canister issue
2. the full throttle thing might indicate something with the TPS
3. the worsening of the problem with the a/c on
Things I've tried so far...
1. prolonged cruising; seemed to improve things after refueling but overall fueling issues not fixed.
2. disconnected the battery -ve and applied brake light circuit to drain ECU capacitor, then left for any power-hold relays etc. then reconnected battery and took it for a normal drive for 30 minutes or so. No effect.
...and things I've yet to try (all gleaned from searching this forum)
1. checking / replacing plugs and HT leads
2. checking / replacing o2 sensor
3. checking the TPS plug connections. Checking the sensor itself sounds expensive - would it involve more than standard OBD?
4. checking vac hoses, in particular the hose which draws from the cannister
5. checking alternator (not sure how); the worsening of the problem with the a/c on could indicate low power getting to injectors etc? (bit of a wild guess)
In a former life I was a diesel engine calibration engineer, so I know the tricks which manufacturers can put into ECUs. What I don't know is the tricks specific to this car.
I've got a camry 2001 4cly 2.4l vvti auto with 120 000kms. Recently i had a issue with the car car suddenly jerking while driving and at a stand still and stalling too. i done a bit of scouting around and come to the conclusion the tps has gone (checked on a multimeter) Change it and the car come good till about 1 week ago now it is doing it a lot more frequent.
View 3 RepliesHave a 1999 f150 replaced tranny. truck started out ok for first 10 miles now it putters when starting from stand still can not figure it out.
View 3 RepliesI had an engine transplant (JDM) and am now getting P0300, P0301, P0302 and P0302 OBD2 codes with my Check Engine light. These are all cylinder misfire codes. A post on Google suggested these may be due to a leaking intake manifold gasket and suggested a replacement. My 2001 Celica GT is stalling out from standstill, idling roughly and hesitating.
View 8 Replies