Golf IV / Jetta IV :: Car Shuts Off With EBrake Engaged
Aug 2, 2015
Throwing the following codes:
p2401- evap emission system leak detection pump control circuit low
p0261- cyl 1 injector circuit low
p0267- cyl 3 "
p0270- cyl 4 "
p0264- cyl 2 "
p0445- evap emission system purge control valve circuit shorted
p2257- secondary air injection system control A circuit low
p0010- A camshaft position actuator/open bank 1
p0414- secondary air injection system switching valve A circuit shorted
Obviously an electrical issue, no way all these codes spring up all at once for separate reasons. Any fuses, relays, harnesses or grounds that relate to all or most of these problems.
Car has trouble at start up, takes a little longer to turn over. If I don't stay on the gas it will eventually cut off. Once I am driving its fine. Its only once the E brake is up, it will cut off right after the brake light comes on.
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I am having a problem with my MK4 Jetta. The problem is that the light that says "Brake" on the dash is on and it is very dimly lit when the ebrake is down/ disengaged. But when I pull it up, it is lit up as much as it should. Also most of the time it will get even more dim if you tap the brake pedal or the clutch. My Jetta is scheduled to go get inspected in a few days and I need to fix this or it wont pass. I included a video of what it's doing so click on it and maybe y'all will be able to tell me what's wrong with it. [URL] ....
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So I picked this clean mk4 up and its my daily but what to do. It already has new coilovers and little things here and there.I recently noticed my e brake doesn't work I tried adjusting but no luck what can it be the cables seem to be intake. Also if I get a bov does it make my gas mileage crappy?
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I just recently replaced all timing chains on a 2000 VR6 jetta, all is working great but now I have an ABS, traction control on and ebrake on (flashing) constantly. Did I miss a ground somewhere? the only one I know of was from battery
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Where to begin, I've checked things i thought could be the issue but aren't. I am having a constant e-brake light on which as you know emits the loud and annoying beep sound. What I've checked and done:
I checked the brake fluid, its fully topped off. I also removed the ebrake switch (the thing under it that when depressed pushes the button and turns the light off) and just crossed the wires to complete the circuit (this does the same as the button essentially) before buying a new one to see if that was the issue, which is doesn't seem to be. I had my buddy run vagcom which turned up no codes that SHOULD make this issue occur. I even popped in a new brake light switch which didn't work.
At the same time of this happening my car is making ZERO boost at all. Is it a coincidence? I don't know... it's just weird they would both happen at the same exact time. Again, no codes are showing up. Checked lines and didn't see any potential boost leaks. What to do.
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I have a 2003 2.8 GLI and my compressor clutch will not engaged i provided the clutch with a direct power and ground from the battery and it engaged. i also went to the junk yard and got a couple of Fan Control Module ($4 each) and it still does not engaged.
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OK, here's the update so far.
- new battery
- all fuses fine in panel, all fuses fine on battery pack.
- am getting power to trigger switch upon engine crank (tested w lamp and volt meter).
- did the 'mechanics tap' on the starter motor body
Still no crank when key is turned, instrument panel/gauges light up as normal
So am I right in thinking that I've narrowed the problems down to:
1) bad solenoid
2) bad starter
3) bad connection between battery and starter
or have I missed something?
Also, is there a way to directly test the starter (or indirectly test the solenoid) by applying power to the starter?
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99 Jetta, installed a new AC compressor a month ago, has been working great, not clutch will engage for a few moments, then turn off for a minute, then engage again. Seems, like there is Freon in there by the gauge on the low side.
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I picked up a 2004 GTI not long ago for pretty cheap because it had a few issues. I am working my way through them. However, having 3rd gear issue.
All other gears are perfectly fine but there is way less play in the shifter in the 3rd gear position and I have to hold the shifter in position until the clutch is engaged (pedal up) to avoid the gear grinding. Once the clutch is engaged it stays in 3rd gear fine. It doesn't matter if I am moving from 2nd to 3rd or 4th to 3rd. Same deal. I have aligned the shifter several times using to proper procedures with no effect.
It never grinds 3rd with the clutch disengaged (so the synchro is fine?) and it will bang shift no problem. Oh and the clutch is less than a year old. It was installed by a shop before I bought the car. It's not really a big deal, but I would like to fix it. If I have to swap the trans that's fine, but need to figure out if it is a trans or linkage issue first.
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Symptoms:
1. As I'm coming to a stop the rpms drop to about 4-500 and the battery light comes on.
2. But instead of shutting off the car revs itself to about 1.5k and does this about 2 or 3 times. (bouncing between 500 and 1.5k rpms.)
3. Car then either settles at a normal idle, or it turns off.
This happens when I'm coming to a stop in neutral or 1st with the clutch pressed down. If I come to a stop in 2nd gear with the clutch down it either does nothing, or just 1 and 2 but doesn't shut off.
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I have a 2.0 Avh jetta. Around January I started getting intermittent cel coming up. I pulled the code back then and it said it was misfiring cylinders. It'd give me some rough idling when it was on. Since then the light would come on during wet weather. About a week ago the light came on and stayed on. I haven't been able to pull a code recently though to see if it is the same as before (cant get vcds to connect to my car for some reason).
My car has randomly died with a battery light (electronics stay on, engine shuts off) and I know this is pretty dangerous but it hasn't happened on a main road. I replaced the coilpack yesterday and planned to change the spark plugs as well but the spark plugs turned out to be more than i was equipped for (i do have them). Since I replaced the coilpack the car no longer rough idles but it did shut off with the battery light coming on. I'm really trying to avoid taking it in somewhere but I'm starting to think that is my only option left.
Should also add that the car starts up just fine initially but after a random battery light shut off it is a hard start and sometimes takes a few tries...
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I have narrowed down my starting issue to a faulty relay(409). When I pulled the relay and cleaned the contacts and reinstalled the pump primed and the car started. Car will idle for about a 1/2 hour and out of the blue it shuts off. If I try to restart, 9 times out of 10 it does not start. If i tap the relay, it starts right up. If the car is running and I tap on the relay the car stutters and if I tap it again it shuts off.
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When I parked this car 2 months ago it ran fine. Went to start it up and it starts and shuts down. I do not think its the security issue. Both keys do the same thing.
Battery is new recently. There are no MIL lights working on the dash except the battery light. The actual dash lights will not come on. Doors will unlock but not lock. My VAG tester will not communicate with the ECU.
I have checked all of the fuses multiple times. I can hear the fuel pump prime up when the key is turned on. It appears that there is an electrical issue. I took the connections off of the ecu, waited a bit, check for cleanliness and reinstalled also.
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My issue is on my 1999 Vw Golf MK4 2.0 L Automatic is that today I was heading home from my Moms house. I noticed a fuel smell coming from the engine . I was making a turn to head west then the car suddenly turned off while still in motion.. I let the car die completely turned it back on and it eventually turned back on .The check engine light was on I then headed home I also noticed while in 4-5 RPM the car would not have that much pressure . Like it wanted to shut off again .. I was doing some research from similar issues like mine . Someone said to replace my EGR Valve and my Speed sensor.
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I have 2003 Jetta GLI 24V VR6 original owner right from the showroom floor. Just the other day I was driving to work and all of the sudden the rpm's dropped the oil light came on (Beeping) and the car shuts off. I had just changed the oil several days ago and I know the oil level is correct and I check again and the oil level is correct.
So I started of very easy, like most blogs say "oil Sender"...replaced that and after driving for about 20 to 25 minutes...the same thing. So I also replace the oil pump and after driving 20 to 25 minutes the same thing.
No oil leaks. Oil pan is not cracked. So now I am at a loss. I have owned the car from day one and it is very well maintained.
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have a 2000 golf TDI 5 SPD Manuel. Was driving into work today and I got on the gas a bit and all the sudden the battery light comes on I hear the beep dash noise and my guage cluster shuts off. I pull into work. Car seems to be running fine.. All belts intact. battery brand new. Car starts and operates fine. At idle dash works. But when I tap the accelerator pedal that's when dash shuts off and battery light comes on. Bizarre. I checked a few fuses not exactly sure which one would be bad but. I didn't see any popped ones. I did notice that my top cluster of fuses all the connecting points are browning but fuses are good. So I am not sure if it was already like that....
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Looking for some hint regarding V6 AUE ? Regardless if engine is warm or cold, sometimes happens to me that during driving, while slowing down and pressing on clutch pedal, revs just drop down to 0 and engine shuts down (vehicle still moving). This usually happens while changing gears from 3rd to 2nd on low speeds in city, or while slowing down to full stop in 2nd gear and pressing clutch pedal.
While this happens, I quickly switch off the ignition and start the engine again, which is tricky and potentially dangerous, since vehicle is still moving but my power steering and brakes are not functioning because of stopped engine.
Some relevant info...I have K&N cone air filter intake and ECU is remapped by BTS Racing (German tuning house).
Car is running and pulling normally. In all other regimes of driving, there are no issues or whatsoever.
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2001 Jetta 1.8t... Recently made a change in the engine head because in broke the timing belt and had to do valves etc., the car was without power(battery disconnected almost a month), now when it start, a light(symbol orange)comes in the cluster and the engine shuts off, what is causing this problem.
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When I go to turn my car on, I have to give it 3 or 4 tries. The try before it actually turns on goes like this: turn key, engine sounds like it wants to turn, almost starts for a split second, and then shuts off. After this I can usually turn it on.
Usually the rpm's would be around 1.3k on a cold start, but when I finally get it to start it automatically dips below 1k. Then when I go to drive it, it feels like it wants to shut off on that first throttle push. It started with just an issue in cold weather, but has gotten progressively worse. Battery is only a few months old.
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Ever since i have had my car i have had a slight problem re-fueling. The pressure inside the tank doesn't seem to vent correctly and the filler neck seems to back up with fuel and shuts off the pump (too much back pressure) when i'm only ~30% full. I can elevate the problem by re-fuelling slow enough so that the pressure can vent back through the filler neck but it gets rather annoying to sit at the pump for 10 minutes re-fueling.
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I know- another noise diagnosis thread but I'm very confused and worried about these noises coming from the front of my car. It's a creaking noise that's most noticeable when I engaged the brakes. I first assumed it was an engine mount- hopefully it is. I'm replacing my vf dogbone bushings before Tod. But this doesn't sound like rubber creaking, by metal. Like the chassis by the strut mounts. I hope it's nothing regarding the v3's. Maybe it's something with the brakes? I also hear I slightly when going over speed bumps. Again, I doesn't sound like the rubbery rear sway creaking. What could be the cause? I'm replacing the pads and fluid before Tod as well..
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