2003 Jetta 1.8T (Manual Transmission)
It does this while driving. Seems like when the car is under load or lots of gas driving there is no sound, but when less gas pedal like coasting it makes this sound.
Car has leaking turbo seal. And bad catalytic converter.
Lately, my vehicle has been squeaking like crazy. Any grease points that might need to be looked at?
View 1 RepliesUnder load, the car shimmies back and forth. Left to right. But only under load. It will even do it in 5th gear at 1500 rpm. The problem goes away when foot off the gas, or in neutral.
Already did a drivers side axle, passenger side axle, and dog bone mount.
I removed the intake to inspect the transmission mount and this is what I found below. Should it be able to wiggle this much? I imagine the mount is original to the car. Which has 156,000 on it currently.
I'm getting misfiring after the engine is hot, but it only shows up under certain load. For example, if I'm in 3rd gear at about 2500 rpm and I give it some amount of throttle, it wont misfire at all but if I give it just a hair more (maybe past 50% or so), it will start misfiring badly and the blinking CEL comes on. The codes it's triggering are misfire on cyl 1 and multiple misfire.
I replaced the coilpack about 6 months ago, that's why I'm hoping for some feedback before I drop a few hundred dollars on another one. I had the plugs out very recently and they look fine. The shape of the wires are difficult to get multimeter probes on so I haven't checked them.
I bought a cheap golf in february. It's an akl engine (1.6sr). Everything was fine on the way home. The car then wasn't used for like a month or two, and was stored outside. When we started using the car it gradually got more and more stuttering. At first it was just a slight stutter when accelerating, but now it's horrible. It will stutter and hesitate like crazy when accelerating or under load, but will cruise just fine at normal rpms. So far I have changed the air filter, fuel filter, spark plugs and a bad spark plug wire, but nothing has worked. I bought a vag scanner but couldn't find any codes. The idle isn't too bad but not perfect. What the problem can be?
View 10 RepliesOk so lately I noticed a horrific rattling coming from the rear of my car. It happens mostly when I'm in a high gear going slow with a load on the gear. It's sort of like the rattle that comes from the exhaust with the same gear load but it's much looser and rattley sounding, and it doesn't always do it. It almost sounds like a piece of sheet metal in my spare tire well rattling when there's a gear load and the exhaust rattles. But I checked in there and it seems tight.
View 5 RepliesAlright I drive a 05 1.8t with 68k original miles.. nder a full load my car bogs and hesitates. also my turbo will stop spooling and my boost gauge will go from 10 pounds to about 4 and i will have to let go of the gas and push down again for my turbo to spool.. What this could be I can't figure it out..
Here is my car.....
I bought a 03 GTI 1.8T. It was hit in the front so it needs a new bumper. The intercooler is smashed to bits. The car will start and idle but as soon as you go to drive into the shop it wants to stall and die out. Will not drive at all. Would the smashed intercooler cause this? No check engine light at all. Car is a 5 speed. All wheels turn free so nothing is keeping it from not rolling.
View 11 RepliesI recently purchased a 2003 jetta 1.8t 5 speed manual and it wasn't making this noise when I first bought it.. It's almost like a growling/grinding noise. It's sounds like it's coming from my middle console but it could be coming from the engine bay hard to tell, but the only time this noise happens is at 1900 rpms when the car is under load like if I'm going a hill it's pretty loud when I'm going slow, the previous owner had the water pump, timing belt, and clutch done 10k miles ago. I have a feeling it's from the clutch/transmission or maybe from the timing belt?
View 2 RepliesInfo: O2J 1.8t, Peloquin LSD, clutchnet 6 puck, VF mounts
Getting a vibration on driver's side during either accel or load up a hill after driving for 20 miles. It's related to distance driven versus engine warm or cold. I can feel it in the pedals, definitely driver's side.
Things checked:
-axles, replaced driver's side, no change
-transmission is full of fluid, looks good
-motor mount bolts tight
-called Peloquins, they said the diff would cause issues while turning and would occur anytime under load, not just when cold
Wheel bearings have about 15k on them and were INA's, and those shouldn't vibrate only on accel or load. I thought about the dogbone, the poly bushings in it are about 35k miles, but makes no sense why it would appear after driving 20 miles.
I can't figure if it's a TB issue as I've just had it replaced or a mount problem. I only get the knock on biting point idle and pull away under load. This noise is driving me insane.
View 2 RepliesI have a 03 golf 2.0 with 82k on it. I am having a really weird issue with car pulling left under load and then going back to the right when letting off the gas. It's more noticeable at higher speeds....over 40mph or so. I did a quick check under the car at ball joints, cv joints and can't really see anything that would make this issue. Would a trans mount or motor mount cause this? Is there something I am missing?
View 2 RepliesIn the early AM I am driving with the heat on full blast, you can feel it is blowing HOT air and engine is fully warm.
However it feels that through the glove box, shifter, and other spots on the passenger side I am getting lots of cold air entering the cabin.
Thus taking longer for cabin air to overcome the hot heat blowing out. (this is not a thermal test I swear!)
Where the air could be coming in? Is AC somehow on to cool glovebox?
I couldn't avoid seemingly a huge pothole when drove at night, and the sound was really awful. After that, I could feel vibration through the steering. The ride isn't the same anymore. What causing the problem? Try to get the car to the tires shop tomorrow. don't wanna bring it to the dealer. Bad experience when I tried to get an alignment after installed vwr lowering springs.
View 11 RepliesAir conditioner was acting weird. (It doesn't blow cold air when the car stops at the lights or in the parking lots. But it works great while driving). Then I went to dealer. And they scan my computer. And they said we need to change Aux Fan control unit and also one of the fan .I ordered OEM Aux Fan Control Unit . And I installed it. I connected Vagcom and cleared the Fault code but It still acts same. I checked the fans. They both works fine to me. They run 10 seconds and stops. So I didn't get this part. How the heck this AC works fine while I am driving but it doesn't work when I stop ?
View 7 RepliesI've got a GTI with a lot of engine vibrations, and I'm not sure if it's something to worry about or even if it's somewhat normal. I have 23,000 miles, Stage II for most of that. My motor ticks obviously but they all do. The idle is smooth (mostly, the needle never fluctuates it's idling at a specific RPM perfectly) but I feel little hiccups and inconsistencies in my steering wheel at a stop light.
Could this be bad motor mounts? Could this be a valvetrain issue? Is there any way to debug this?
I first noticed the issue (it might have been happening beforehand, but never noticed it) after getting my 20k dealer service. Until then I was changing my oil and filter every 6k with motul specific 5W-40. Could they have used a different weight of oil that might simply be changing the way the motor feels?
It seems the idling vibration characteristics of my motor have changed, and I'd like to fix the issue if one exists to prevent future damage to the motor.
About three weeks ago while accelerating in 2nd gear my car got a jolt. Then it happened again, then once more. Then I was able to reproduce it while watching RPMs- it happened around 4.5K. Now it happens almost every time when I floor it for 3-4 seconds in 2nd or 3rd. Did some runs with VCDS today and determined that both low fuel pressure (which sits around 5 bar at idle) and rail pressure (which sits around 50 bar at idle) drop sharply when this jolt happens. Low pressure stays in the 5-6 range then dips below 3 bar range. Rail pressure goes way up while accelerating and then there is sudden vertical drop on the chart while the car is in still in boost.
Fuel system is stock except for the fuel filter/pressure regulator which I swapped recently. The new filter is 6.6 bar just like the original was, and it came from the dealer. The prevailing thought is that my lift pump has reached end of its life.
So, in the last month or so I have been having trouble getting the car to go into second gear when mashing the go pedal. I have to try several times and seems to be that the car has to unload and then it will shift.
I am using the DG shifter and have been for 30k+ miles and I have the red HPA dogbone insert. The shift has not been a problem up until the last month or two.
Is it time for motor mounts?
I have some vibration issues with my car and i think it can be related to my left frontaxle, as i saw it was leaking a little under inspection. The vibration is not there when just rolling, it happens only when i give it a little load, like in high gears and low speed and light throttle and is gone when leaving off throttle. The vibration is felt in the steering wheel and in whole car. The strange with all this is that some days there is nothing and some days it is there constant, it seems to change with the weather, if its colder outside, can it still be the axle? I have contacted raxles 2-3 times without any response so my solution is to buy a oem axle for high $$ and see if the problem will be solved.
View 2 RepliesI've got a R32 with nearly 100K miles on it. Several days ago I was adjusting my shifter cables and am not sure if i accidentally leaned up against any sensors or their associated connectors that are in that vicinity. I took the car for a drive to feel how the shifter adjustment had turned out. I was building engine RPM from 2500-4000 RPM, I let off the acceleration pedal and felt a small and new kick as if something got loose, popped off, or backfired. Not sure what it was but my engine started to misfire in what seemed to be in several cylinders. It idles rough but the needle doesn't exceed 1000 RPM during idle. When driving calmly, there is sporadic misfire. If pushed hard to build RPM, it will misfire heavily.
I scanned the vehicle and got the following codes,
P0300
P0301
P0303
P0305
I've checked
- Every hose I can see and feel for Vacuum leaks
- Checked all my fuses
- Swapped coils from banks 1,3,5, with 2,4,6
- Disconnected, cleaned and reconnected camshaft hall sender sensors and tightened the bolts.
- Have erased the coded and the same codes are back.
I've got the the alternator workshop on my screen and the battery light, again. I've replaced the battery (it was bad) and it drove fine for about 15 min then it came back again. Now it comes back under load (accelerating, revving). The car starts fine now but after a lil but of driving, the car idles high (1k rpm) instead of the 500-700 rpm. I turn the car off and it will go back to the normal idle. I've obviously read about a poss bad alternator but I've read about loose alternator belts. Fixing this issue with tightening the belt or has everyone just replaced the alternator?
View 13 Replies