Golf IV / Jetta IV :: Car Seem Sluggish On First And Second Gear / N249 Malfunction Code
Oct 25, 2010
Scanned my APR chipped 2001 1.8T for a CEL and found the following codes.
17608 - Boost Pressure Control Valve (N249): Mechanical Malfunction
P1200 - 35-00 - -
17536 - Fuel Trim: Bank 1 (Mult): System too Lean
P1128 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
16795 - Secondary Air Injection System: Incorrect Flow Detected
P0411 - 35-00 - -
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00943 - Heated Exterior Mirror: Driver Side (Z4)
35-00 - -
01358 - Internal Central Locking Switch: Driver Side (E150)
27-00 - Implausible Signal
I don't the think last two codes are related. I did a thorough search on Vortex and there doesn't seem to be any posts on this combo of codes, the first 3 that is. There are a few posts about the N249 and Fuel trim codes which may seem to be relate to vac leaks around the N249.
In terms of symptoms, I haven't noticed anything new. The car does seem sluggish on first and second and gear but it's been like that for months if not a year but no codes. I've had rough cold starts which has also been around for a very long time and I attributed this to the secondary air pump since the dealer found nothing wrong. The only real problem I've had for about a year is the car seems to have a global power loss at times where the entire cluster would start blink and beeping, usually after I use the power windows when the lights are on. All interior and exterior lights would also dim when this happens. Sometimes, the entire car would even shut off when I'm stopped. I've taken it to the dealer multiple times and no one has been able to figure it out. They think it's a look wire somewhere. Anyways, it comes and goes.
I do have an APR chip and it's been in for probably 8 years. So, basically no new symptoms really and all the codes are new. I've erased them and rescanned after driving and they all came back.
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What could be the issue at hand here. I just recently bought a 337 edition gti and I absolutely love it. But the guy I bought it from says that it was chipped but he doesn't know what brand tune it is. But the problem, like the title suggests, is that in first gear the car pulls incredibly hard but as soon as I shift into second I lose all my momentum and it just feels sluggish.everyone that I've seen on these threads have said that I should be getting the most power I'm second and third gear. Is this tune just not a good one? Could there be something more?
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So, I recently picked up mt 2000 vr6 has 200k on it runs great well taken care of. I was just driving not getting crazy or any sort of thing. it has ground in 2nd a little from when I got it. I put it in neutral then went to put it in 2nd and it went but nothing there. it will go into 2nd but won't stay and when I hold it in 2nd gear it just revs no noise or anything just sits and rolls. tried doing the reading but all I fold was 1st and 2nd I just have no 2nd.
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When I'm driving, the Jetta will sometimes not shift from 3rd to 4th gear, so I just turn of the car a start it and it seems to work, but eventually does it again. Once it is in 3rd gear it does not downshift and stays in 3rd even when stopped. The trouble code is P0785 which is the shift/timing solenoid. Not sure if I need to get a new part or which solenoid to get. Also I cannot figure out where this solenoid is actually located or what it looks like.
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Damn car is stuck in 3rd gear! Hooked up scanner and the screen just says error! I have to keep the scanner in the vehicle, hooked up, just to drive the car. That's just so it'll shift as its supposed to! Now it's not letting me pull the code out, in order for me to erase it! It just keeps saying "error".
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Just picked up a 2002 golf 2.0 auto for $200. Get the car home start it up and it runs great but... transmission shifts all kinds of funky. Starts in first then shifts to third. If I give it some gas it shifts down to second but has nothing there, just revs. Will not go into 4th at all. Throw my little mac scanner on it some codes come up. Only one that mattered was p0277 if I remember. Do a little search and it comes up as the g68 under the tranny mount. Change that out and had not cel. Still shifting the same but no code at all. Throw my scanner on just to see and get p0730 incorrect gear ratio.
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I started my car the other day and found that it only drives the first gear and I can also put it in reverse. VCDS gave me a 00281 code saying no signal from Vehicle Speed Sensor G68. I replaced the sensor, but it still doesn't go into gear beyond 1st.
VCDS gives me the following codes after replacing G68.
2 Faults Found:
00652 - Gear Monitoring
27-10 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent
00281 - Vehicle Speed Sensor (G68)
03-00 - No Signal
I came across TSB 01-99-02 which says something about the codes being incorrect. It seemed a little vague about whether it is actually G38 or G22. I don't want to buy more sensors only to have it be something else. The speedometer and tach work fine so G22 doesn't seem likely to me.
The VCDS site says it could be several things including bad G68 or G38 sensor, low fluid & bad valve body. Was it the G38 sensor?
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Bought a Mk4 1.8T gti last year had only about 75,000 on it and drove it for about 10,000 miles. The check engine light went on about 2 months ago and the code read 3rd gear incorrect ratio. It still rode fine until about a week ago when it started slipping. Brought it to the local transmission guys in my town and got a quote at about $3,000-$3,500 to have the transmission rebuilt. The transmission is a tiptronic automatic 6-speed.
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I have 1 month left on my AAMCO rebuilt transmission. I took it in a few weeks ago when it went into "limp mode" (Stuck in 1st gear). Eventually, they got an error code of P0730, which I believe is electrical-related. All was pretty good but then today, driving @ high speed on the interstate, I could not get into 4th gear...
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Is this a warm stall issue and if so what is the actual solution to it ?
- Car is warm it will stall out at times after start . Giving it some gas will save it from stalling
- When dead cold it will have a very sluggish start
New plugs and coils. New fuel pump fuel filter & regulator . New crank sensor . Throttle body cleaned as well as maf. evap leaks all sealed up too. battery is good too
Very frustrating. Only solution would be to leave it at a shop for at least two hours so they could do live scans. But I'd rather not pay two hours of labor for nothing.
[URL] ....
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I have two codes P0760 and P0755, malfunction shift solenoid B and C, today I took it to Hyundai here in queens ny, I was told that It would cost e 2684.00 to fix my issue, I can't believe that if those two codes are the problem why would it cost 2684.00 ? Where are these solenoids located?
The car feels like your one of the flintstones, it's stuck in 3rd gear and cant get out, then it jerks when it tries to shift, tranny oil is fine not burnt like if the clutches are gone.
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I just traded my MKIV GTI yesterday for an R32. Super happy.
But I have a question, Should I put in new tranny fluid? cause when I try to go fast and go from 1st to 2nd it gets blocked, but if I'm going slow and slowly feather the clutch it goes into the second fine.
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Been the proud owner of a '04 Golf for a few years but it hasn't been without its share of hiccups. I recently had my battery die on me. Got the car looked at and apparently the alternator was the culprit, ie, it wasn't functioning and re-charging the battery. Swapped out the OEM for a rebuilt Bosch 120A (my car is a 2.0GL, so it's supposed to be 90a default, but I looked online and saw that I could use the 120). Even put in a new battery as the old one was past its prime. Now the new alternator (which was not fun to install) isn't working either. I had a different mechanic look at it and they said that while the auto shop gave me the right part number, that apparently VWs are hinky with aftermarket parts and I'd have to take it to a VW dealer for a diagnostic? Makes no sense as I've seen tons of people online who've used aftermarket alternators with no problem.
So now the car essentially is dead in the water. Battery light comes on when the car is started and I'm not tempted to not drive the car anywhere out of fear that the new battery will die in mid-traffic. I've checked the grounds, pulley, etc, everything looks fine and connected proper. What could be going on?
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This is my first VW. My first European car at all. I've been having what I think are battery issues, but they're weird. Every... I'd say 3rd or 4th start, I just get the clickclickclickclickclick thing. Then I jump it and it starts fine. When I don't have to jump it, it's been starting rough. When I jump it is the only time it starts smoothly. To me that screams battery.
The other day, I went to start it and it wouldn't start. But I had nothing to do that day so I went back inside and did whatever. Went out about 5 hours later, and it started just fine.
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I go my R32 calipers powder coated, I rebuilt the err m and got 20th rears while I was at it.
I did make a noob mistake and pressed the brake pedal to try to manually bleed my rear brakes (used a vacuum pump prior) then I remembered my front calipers were off.I might have pressed it 3-4 times.I re-bled all 4 corners, once all 4 calipers were on, and did so until I was sure there was no air.I read in a few places that our rear calipers bleed because the bleeder screw isnt at the high point, which makes sense. So Im wondering if this is what I'm experiencing or is there something, via VAGCOM, I have over looked?
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So i just had my R32 at the stealership to get my AC recharged. Ever since ive noticed that my AC doesn't always blow cold. It will vary from cold to warm and back to cold then warm. Im not even sure what to start looking for as the issue
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This morning my AC was working just fine, air blew cold and nothing seemed wrong. But then tonight when I went out it was cold outside so I decided to turn the heat on.. That's when a problem happened. Tried turning the AC on but no air came out the vents at all. Tried all the air settings, nothing at all, even when it's on "4". The only thing that seems to work is the re-cycilation button, it lights up and I can hear it working. So to sum it up, no air coming out the vents and the AC light won't turn on when I push it in.
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Upon installing LED interior lights in the dome lighting in my 2003 Jetta GL 5 Speed, my power door locks, power windows, interior lighting, and license plates lights no longer work. I looked at fuse 14 (the fuse associated with interior lighting) and it was not blown. I also tried replacing the LED lights with the lights I had removed while putting in the LEDs, and everything still does not work. Another thing to note is that during installation, the 3 lights in between the drive and passenger seats in the front worked when LEDs were inserted into them. It was not until I replaced the passenger side rear light with an LED that all of these malfunctions started to occur.
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when unlocking the car, half of the time the passenger front and back door do not open from the outside even though the little door opening/closing pin has jumped up into the open position. then i need to give the door a good push near the lock , i can hear a little click and then the door opens.
how to fix this?
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I am having problems with ALL my driver door electronics, except the fuel door. my passenger side works fine, sunroof works fine. Ive removed the door panel to look for obvious problems, like broken wires.. Fuses are good, looking for a good place to start. Power winder/locks.
Little update, i reset my battery and they worked, waited like twenty minutes, nothing works again.. why would i have to reset the battery every time for the windows to work?
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The code in question is:
18613 - Performance Malfunction in Cooling System
P2181 - 008 - Implausible Signal - MIL ON
Long story short, there are 5 main reasons this problem can pop up, listed in order of likelihood, least to greatest:
1) Coolant sensor
2) Thermostat
3) Bad fans
4) Coolant mixture
5) Water pump
It's a fun catch-all code that can be thrown from any of those. Given that our cars are approaching the 6 year mark, the coolant sensor & thermostat are the most likely culprits. Most of us up on maintenance have already done the green-top sensor, so it's probably the thermostat. In which case, here is the official changing the thermostat DIY: [URL] .....
If you get this code, first check your fans. They're running? Okay, change your sensor & clear it. If it comes back, change the thermostat. If it still comes back, which has been known to happen, investigate further. [IMG] [URL] .....
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