Golf IV / Jetta IV :: Car Is Too Low To Drive Up Onto The Lift After Alignment
Aug 8, 2015
So I installed coilovers a short while ago and now I need an alignment bad (obviously), but when I took it to get aligned, I was told my car is too low to drive up onto the lift , so I was wondering if I would be able to adjust my coils to a better height and then after the alignment just drop them back down a bit, it won't be too major of a drop back down but I just want to make sure I wouldn't be wasting my money. There is a place up the road that will do the alignment at my current height but for a pretty steep price considering how low my car is.
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I removed the old muffler but it was severed at the pipe so there was no issue getting it over the rear cross member. I dropped the center brace to remove the resonator from cat back.
My question is, is it possible to install a new OEM rear muffler without a lift? I have stands but I do not know of I can get it high enough, or if I even need to get it that high? Not sure the bend of the pipe before it meets the resonator.
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I bought a gonzo tune with no lift shift and launch control. I backfire during the launch but not when I no lift shift. It only happens once in a while. Mind you my friend had the same car with same upgrades and his was working better. Both gonzo tuned. What could be the issue?
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Feel this is a bit stupid, but whatever. I was jacking up the front wheel of the car today on the pinch welds (one part of it got super bent) and while the jack was almost maxed out, my front wheel didn't go anywhere. I must've had almost a foot gap between the wheel and the fender..
Took some pictures of where I jacked, and the suspension/wheel of the car. What it could've been or how I'm supposed to properly lift it so the wheel comes up?
can see the pics here: [URL].....
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I've done the center console with cup holders conversion, but I've never bothered installing the rear cup holder, until now. Is it supposed to have this gap?
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My mkiv gti leans a lot to the right whenever I let off the steering wheel. I brought it to a shop and they put it up on a lift and told me that I needed a tie rod flip kit because it's lowered. Long story short, they charged me $70 to look at it for 10 minutes. Do you really need a flip kit for a car lowered on coilovers? I have several friends with lowered cars and none off them have had to do this. I'm thinking it's something else such as a bad shock but I'm no expert.
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I just had an alignment done and the steering wheel is turned counter clockwise a little. I know very little about alignment. I know the terminology and what it means and i heard the the rear camber and toe isn't adjustable on mk4s. I did lower my car,only about one inch though.
Here is the sheet that came with the alignment:
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I need to replace a cv joint on my mk4 golf and was wondering if I will need to get a front end wheel alignment done once I have completed the job...
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Recently I've noticed that every time when shifting from park to drive and occasionally from reverse to drive in my 05 Golf GLS, I would have to remain off the gas for 3-4 seconds otherwise the car would jerk forward. If I press on the gas ever so slightly, the rpm would go up to around 1000 then jerk. Why this is happening?
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I finally got my lift installed the other day from PMF. My question is how do I get my pinion angle corrected on the front drive shaft? I know Trevor sells a Tcase clocking adapter may have to go that route IDK Unlike the rear there's only so much pitch you can put on the front axle until it causes issues with steering. I was thinking of going with an aftermarket front drive shaft designed to handle harsher angles.
I live in the mountains and after installing the lift and pulling a trailer on some of theses steeper gravel roads I can feel a harshness or something coming from under to front of the truck. I'm unable to post pics since I'm back on the road but I can visually see the front drive shaft angle is definitely not in line like it was.
I'm currently running PMF 2.5 alpha with a 1'' spacer and 3 link kit up front and 5'' progressive leafs and traction bars out back. I was able to fix my rear shaft angle using shims on my carrier bearing ( not really a big fan having 1 1/2'' of stacked shims BTW ) ....
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I have a 1994 Black Ford F150 and i was wondering if i could lift the truck 6 inches only using lift blocks (or any other cheap way to get my truck off the ground)....
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I bought a MK4 GLS 2.0 5 spd with 200,000km on it back in february, It currently has 208,000km on it.
Whenever I drive in reverse, I get this loud shuddering/rattling noise with a slight vibration. I've noticed that it is louder from a stop and when the clutch it partially depressed accelerating,but pretty much goes away when the clutch is let out or when coasting.
It is sounds like it is coming from behind the front seats to the rear of the car. It almost sounds like the rear shock mounts are rattling. I also sometimes still here a slight knock, similar to the sound of worn sway bar bushings, but replaced those a few weeks ago.
I also get the same knock whenever I screw up a shift and the engine moves. I also considered and engine or transmission mount but i don't really get any vibration through the steering wheel other than a small amount which could be attributed to the poly dog bone bushings.
About two months ago but I replaced the RR shock mount with a new one. The old one looked fine. I replaced the RL shock mount with the one that I removed from the RR side.
Changing the shock mounts made no difference but I noticed that I could easily compress the RL rear shock with my hand. Could worn rear shocks be causing this noise/vibration? I've searched but I can't find an explanation besides the shock mounts.
I have replaced a few suspension components in the last few months:
-rear beam bushings in august
-front sway bar bushings a few weeks ago
-RR rear shock mount (new)
-RL rear shock mount (used from other side, but looked fine and replacing it made no difference)
-energy suspension poly dog bone bushings about six months ago
I don't think the car was really maintained that well due to it having original sway bar bushings and having tires that were worn very unevenly due to the rear beam bushings when I got it.
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P1128. Have had the code over and over!! No vacuum leaks and I've been through 2 MAFs. I've cleaned the throttle body, changed intake manifold gasket, changed plugs and wires, and put a new air filter in.
The code comes back every few months or so and the car becomes undriveable. Last changed my MAF back in December and the code is back already. What am I missing?
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So my 2002 Jetta 1.8t is overheating. The water pump was bad. Replaced. The thermostat. Replaced. Radiator. Replaced. Radiator cap. Replaced. We're running out of things to replace! I'm ready to go to a junk yard and get a new block! We've tried about 100 magical "ways to burp it" with no luck. We even tried running it without a thermostat. Without the heater core. EVERYTHING.
The car runs at operating temperature at 4 RPM. But when we take it for a drive, it overheats. There's no heat with the thermostat in unless you rev it at the high RPMs. As for the hoses, top is hot, bottom gets hot. As for the car, it runs beautifully. It gives no codes. No smoke either. Nothing in the oil, nothing in the coolant so I don't think it's the head. It just overheats. This has been FAR too long.
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Is it normal for my 2003 Jetta 1.8T to have trouble reaching operating temps from a cold start when letting it idle in the driveway with outside temps of 30F?
I recently had my thermostat replaced because my coolant temps never reached operating temps even when driving on the freeway.
Now with the replaced thermostat it reaches close to 190 after around 10 minutes of driving but if I am starting a cold engine and stay idle in the drive way it will not heat up to 190 even after 10 minutes.
When I tried a cold start with just letting it idle in the driveway for 10 minutes my check engine light came on giving me the P0118 code which I had before I changed my thermostat and a P0411 code.
After getting the thermostat changed I drove 100 miles to a destination and 100 miles back home the next day. A few days later I drove 22 miles to pick up a friend then 22 miles back without the check engine light coming on.
It was only when I let the car stay in idle from a cold start for 10 minutes that the check engine light came on and gave me the two error codes of P0118 and P0411.
Now I suspect the P0411 is from a leaking secondary air injection hose but the P0118 code confuses me as I switched out the thermostat and the coolant temp sensor.
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A week ago before I left for h20 my battery light came on, i drove for 10 mins and it went off. I also had a battery test and alternator test at that time and everything showed up ok. I drove 800 miles all good. Last night the battery light came on again, I was far from home so just tried making it back but the car dies on me. Before it died the traction and abs light turned on, the lights dimmed, when I gassed it the lights would get a tiny bit brighter. Also my gauges got stuck at the rpm i was driving at and 70 mph, even though i came to a stop already.
When i tried to gas the car it was backfiring, sometimes i couldn't even give it gas. Only way to start the car was to jump it, then i can drive a little before the car died again.
I drove with my battery box off the highway because highway patrol said i have to and got towed how from there last night. The ALTERNATOR AND BATTERY WERE CHANGED a year and a half ago apx 12000 miles, all oem equipment for the alternator. The serpentine belt and tensioner on top have also been changed and serviced.
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I've been having 2000 Jetta GLS VR6. It has an automatic transmission and lately I've noticed that when I put it into Drive, it starts out in 3rd gear. In other words I've lost 1st and 2nd gear when put in Drive. When I manually put it in 1st gear with the shifter, I have 1st gear and all the way up to Drive. The issue just seems to be while in Drive (D)
I've tried the Automatic Transmission Reset :
[URL]...................
Perhaps I'm not doing it right as I can't seem to see any switch under the Gas pedal, just a round piece of plastic that protrudes an inch. I've even removed that and still see no switch.
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Had the common problem of ARB rubbing the drive shaft after I lowered an extra 15mm - It didn't rub before I went this extra 15mm. I got adjustable drop links on and they also didn't work. I basically told the garage to sort it out and they put standard drop links back on (not genuine) and also new wishbones because I needed them. Got my car back and the rubbing was even worse. So I raised it back up the 15mm, to where it was before the rubbing started, yet it's still rubbing like crazy. I'm wondering if the new wishbones may be causing this because of new bushings or something and it all being tighter. And also what am I supposed to do? I shouldn't have to buy a whiteline ARB because it wasn't rubbing at this ride height before the wishbones and drop links were changed.
To summarize:
>Lowered car extra 15mm, rubbing started
>Drop links and wishbones changed, rubbing is worse
>Raised back to the point where rubbing started and still rubbing just as badly.
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Just recently replaced timing chains and clutch on a 2000 VR6, now I have a bit of drive-case whine but in 3rd & 4th gear only? Replaced throw out bearing with new and sachs clutch, Are my transmission bolts too tight or something?
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I just changed my oil in my mk4 jetta 1.8L and after draining the oil, changing filer, and adding new oil, the car will not move in drive or reverse. Once I give it gas it will move but that's at the higher rpms. I am almost positive I didn't remove the transmission oil but I am just not sure.
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Found some cracks in the outside of my driveshaft. 2002 Jetta 1.8T 5-Speed Manual.
Part number: 1J0 407 271 GJ
I'm guessing it's just rust/age. Honestly, I don't even know if this need to be replaced. CV boots are in perfect condition, now cracks or leaks whatsoever.
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