Golf IV / Jetta IV :: Car Is Sliding Back And Forth When Go Above 55 Mph
Feb 28, 2015
Not sure what's up with my car at the moment guys, but it seems. Whenever I go above about 55mph it feels as if the car is sliding back and forth. Its most noticeable at about 65mph where you can see the speedometer nudge backwards and forwards maybe 2/3mph at a time. I'm not sure if the engine is doing this but it does feel like it stops the starts then stop and starts etc. I'd say its also more noticeable in cruise control also. Car is an automatic 2.0L engine ...
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I tightened the bolt behind the black cap, however, I got a piece in return. Does this have to do with the lock cylinder sliding out on its own?
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I have a 99 1.8t and my sunroof motor is dead when i try to manually shut it, it just keeps sliding back . How to properly shut it manually if it's raining outside.
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The middle sliding seat has jammed and I cannot get it back into the regular sitting position. I don't see any obvious obstructions, but there are a couple of springs not attached, and I may be missing a connecting rod.
Any pictures of how a "normal" mechanism should look like?
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My driver seat has started moving on its own, sliding back and reclining. 1 have a 2008 Azera, 45,000 mi
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One of my Aerostar pet peeves is to do with the sliding door alignment, or should I say slight misalignment.
Some of the alignment problems can be attributed to worn out nylon roller bearings. Make sure the roller guide ways are clean of any foreign debris. When you car wash your Aero, make sure to also clean the interior roller guide way (open the sliding door and thoroughly clean around the area where the bottom sliding door wheel travels).
After 20 years of usage, the sliding door will eventually drop down and back a few millimeters. Some of the symptoms associated with this will be a sporadic loss of electrical contact with those that are outfitted with electrical door locks. Also, the sliding door may also require some manual assistance at back edge to open the door. It can become somewhat frustrating, and perhaps a little embarrassing when parked beside a newer vehicle outfitted with automatic door opening/closing mechanisms.
I am not sure if the elevation of the sliding door can be adjusted at the rear or in the middle, but I do know that the horizontal position of the sliding door can be adjusted to a certain degree. The vertical position can be only adjusted by a very tiny amount.
1) Remove all of screws on the sliding door interior panel, and as well as the torx screw on the open/close barbaric door handle.
2) The bottom panel, other than the screws, has 2 plastic/nylon semi-resuble flat headed holder fittings.
3) Remove the two interior rubber grommets at the rear edge of the door. This will reveal 3 adjustment bolts.
4) Loosen the bolts, then push the door a bit forward while holding the middle hinge. Don't push too much! Just a little.
5) Re-tighten the middle handle bolts, and subsequently re-adjust the striker bolt. This is a PITA to align properly.
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So i decided to be a man and finish my 3.6vr in my gti project. Filled the coolant system with g13 and let the car run for a good half hour but the temperature only went to 130 degrees and would go back down to 120 and back to 130 and back and forth. With the heat turned on it was only slightly warm. Top hose was slightly hot and the bottom hose was just warm. So i tried massaging the hoses some more to let any air out and saw no bubbles. So i decided to go for a drive around the block and temps still stayed the same. So i'm leaning towards a thermostat but the motor was pulled out of a running passat with no problems.
Also its a brand new oem temp sensor
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Under load, the car shimmies back and forth. Left to right. But only under load. It will even do it in 5th gear at 1500 rpm. The problem goes away when foot off the gas, or in neutral.
Already did a drivers side axle, passenger side axle, and dog bone mount.
I removed the intake to inspect the transmission mount and this is what I found below. Should it be able to wiggle this much? I imagine the mount is original to the car. Which has 156,000 on it currently.
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So i was driving and I went to shift and my clutch never came back up. Long story short after searching the forums i think it might be my slave cylinder and throwout bearing. There was a puddle of fluid under the car.
I was planning on using this DIY : [URL] ....
Just wondering if all i have to do is follow this up to step 48 and replace the throwout bearing and slave cylinder.
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12v VR6. Have smoke pouring out of the back here. The coolant is really hot but its not smoking from the reservoir. In the second picture you can see a liquid its that brown green stuff. It is fresh and wet not a stain. Also in the third pick there is some of that around the sparkplug wire. Also smells burnt.
The oil in the dipstick isn't milky like a blown headgasket would. However the oil inside the oil cap is a very dark brown. What is it? I'm thinking head gasket but this is my only lead.
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Putting a straight pipe from the cat back on 1.8T mk4? I was thinking going 2.5 inches from the cat back with a tip. But I wanna know how loud it is.
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I just purchased a used 01 Jetta GLS. It came with only 1 key and no fob. My key fits the door and ignition but does not seem to fit the trunk or the back seat lock that gives better access to the trunk. The fuel door switch works but the trunk release switch does not (no sound, haven't checked wires yet).
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So I was driving down the road today and my car just shut off. No turning back at all. It is still trying to start. Battery is fine, terminals are fine, it acts like it wants to start but won't start. It's been running fine for a long time now. I think it may be the fuel pump. I'm going to take the fuel line out when I get home and see if it's getting fuel.
Door doesn't make the buzzing sound when you open the door. The car is also on air ride...
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I have a 2000 golf 1.8t 4 door Looking to make my car a little bit louder than the stock system. I am looking at getting a new downpipes from neuspeed. I don't know if I should go ahead to and get a new ecu, I don't have a ton of plans for the car just want to make it a fun daily.
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It feels like I have zero back pressure until I hit about 3500rpm. The car kind of struggles and chugs a bit until it hits the power band and then it takes off like everything is normal...
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I'm bench testing my starter and wanted to make sure that it's working as it should before I install it. The plunger comes out and the gear spins as expected, but it takes a second for the gear to pop back in after I disconnect it. I'm worried that it might get stuck on the flywheel if the return spring isn't working as it should.
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I have a 2006 Jetta and can not open my 2 back doors either from inside or out. You can hear the electronic locks lock/unlock, but doors will not open. Took it to the dealer and they said " Testing found FRONT door latches have an internal open circuit malfunction. They want to replace switches.
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Now I've had this constant problem with this code that I just cannot get rid of. I've read many threads on here but nothing seems to be working. I currently am on the third maf that I've been able to test out, still throws the code. Connector is all clean, nothing wrong there. It is clean every time I just can't figure it out.
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I have a 2004 1.8t Jetta with 97000 mile that seems to run fine. Every once in a while when I hammer the throttle a huge cloud of light bluish smoke comes from the back of the car and seems to lose its power until it hits second gear and then all is fine. It doesn't happen all the time but freaks me out when it does. I don't get any warnings on the dash. I just bought this car 3 weeks ago and of course this didn't happen when I drove it.
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Keep getting o2 fault codes. Replaced sensors came back. tried another set of sensors came back. Checked wiring for breaks no luck. Replaced ecu still no luck. So going through wiring again and checking for continuity. Looking for a list of what pins to check for voltages, and what each should be from ecu to sensor connectors. Looking for what wire is signal and how to and what voltages to check for...
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I was driving tonight and all of a sudden my car dies and wont start back up. I try to go and start it and only thing that happens is it clicks once. Battery is around one year old and the alternator was replaced with it. Lately there has been a rattle in the engine bay and i couldnt figure out what was going on. I tried to replace the intake manifold bushings with OEM ones and no luck with that.
I was going to replace with oversized bushing by friday but I don't think that's going to happen now. Whether it could be the starter or if the timing chain could have broke or if the engine could have seized. *(BTW the car is a 2003 Jetta GLI with a 2.8l 24v vr6 6 speed manual.)*
Last time i did an oil change was around 50 miles ago. 6 quarts of 0w-40 mobil 1 full synthetic.
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