Golf IV / Jetta IV :: Car Came With No Sunroof But Seals Started Leaking
Jul 10, 2016
So I bought my 03 golf 2.slow about 10 years ago used and it came with a moonroof... not a sunroof. I never really thought about it and just assumed it was a option from the factory but the seals have been leaking lately and I was looking for a replacement seal and could not find anything only sunroof parts. Is this an aftermarket moonroof where they cut a hole in the roof and added this?..I really hope not. Or did someone take the sunroof assembly out and put this in its place.
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So over the weekend my 2000 jetta VR6 started leaking coolant and getting way to hot. So i parked it at work and eventually got it towed to a friends shop. I haven't looked at the car since then so bear with me on the descriptions I'm giving as they are just what he told me over the phone. I'm going to try and get to the shop in the morning to check it out some more. He says I have a leak in 2 hoses that look like they are just rotted out.
First hose he says "Comes from the back of the head and is about a half inch wide. it goes into a Y and then the top half goes into a smaller hose." The 2nd hose he says "on the top of the coolant bottle there is a line that goes across the back of the firewall then comes into a rubber hose and from that hose their is a T going into other places."
Obviously that's not a lot to go on. and when I'm looking at replacement hoses at shops online I'm not seeing ones that match these descriptions really. I've been looking for a diagram or some kind of illustration of these hoses so that i can send it to him and he can figure out which ones they are but I have not been able to find one.
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Recently I started leaking coolant on the driver side area to the right of the engine:
I am assuming I need to replace some part/tubing that has a leak in it, but I am not sure what any of these things are called. How to identify what leaking part here is?
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I bought my RS a little more than a month ago. Low and behold about two weeks later my drivers side footwell and behind the drivers seat collected about 2 inches of rain water.
I have searched far and wide and perhaps I'm missing something...My leak is not in the rear which I have seen plenty of info and a couple awesome DIY's. My leak is coming from the panels by the fuse box and hood release. The original owner had done the service to it where the nipples are cut and drained. When I poured a cup of water in the front left drain in the sunroof water comes out of the nipple as well...
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I have a few different rattles going on that I am not sure how to fix. I did a quick search and didn't find exactly what I was looking for.
1) Sunroof sunshade - about a week ago, the sunshade on the sunroof has started to rattle when the sunroof is open. If I lightly push up on the sunshade the rattle stops. The rattle goes away when the sunroof is closed.
2) Armrest - I get a rattle when driving over anything but super smooth roads if the armrest is any position but all the way down and pushed in. When armrest is extended, if I put any weight on it, the rattle pretty much goes away.
3) Driver side dash vent - again over anything but super smooth roads, the driver's side vent on the dash (next to the top of the drivers door) will rattle. If I push on the vent, the rattle is reduced but doesn't go away completely.
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As the title says, my car has been leaking oil. I noticed it several months ago and took it to a shop and they said that it it might be leaking from the engine seals. I think they replaced all but the rear seal, because that would have cost a lot more because they would have to pull the engine.
It seemed ok for a while (or maybe I just didn't notice), but now I've noticed that it continues to drip oil, but since it hasn't been fixed by replacing the other seals, I am hesitant to bring it back to the guys who worked on it the first time.
I looked under the car and hood and tried to see if I could tell where the oil is leaking from but it's not apparent to me. I looked at the oil pressure sending switch and, as far as I can tell, I don't see any dripping there, although it does look kinda grimy around that area, but it's hard to tell if it's oil or just run-of-the-mill dirt.
I took a few pics : mauk52.jpg1600x1200
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I have replaced all the injector seals as well as the ball cup seals but when I crank the truck over after a few cranks I see oil bubbling up from the top of all the injectors. When looking at the injectors from the "top" side all looks well but when I use an inspection cam from down below I can see this happening. Any thoughts?
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I got a 97 aerostar from my parents. Front Shocks are done for (seals leaking). Any good brands? Does one just unbolt and replace shocks or do they have the mcpherson strut assemblies. It only has 48,000 miles on it. No rust and pretty good condition overall.
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I have a 2002 Honda Accord SE with 228K miles. Leaking oil (oil spots on garage floor). My mechanic, where I get my oil change, said it looks like it is leaking oil and transmission fluid- he referred me to a reputable auto repair shop. The auto repair shop put some kind of dye in my car and told be to bring it back after driving 50 miles. Two days later I took my car back. They said I was not leaking transmission fluid but oil. They said my valve gasket, and my cam, crank, and balance shaft seals are bad.
They replaced the gasket and seals. I also had them to replace my timing belt and water pump since it was last changed at 113K miles. I continued to find fresh oil spots on my garage floor. I returned to the auto repair shop. They inspected my car and said I need to replace the VTEC gasket. I had them to replace the VTEC gasket. A few days later, I noticed some more oil drops on my garage floor. I returned to the auto repair shop and told them to keep it until they discover where the leak is coming from. My car is currently at the auto repair shop two days later. Do you think this oil leak problem mean that the end of my car is near? Is it worth repairing?
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The engine runs beautifully, but we cannot stop an oil leak. The Machine Shop replaced the front and rear main crank seal three times and it is still leaking. We took the truck to Ford who put the dye in and checked for the leak with a black light.Their analysis was that they would START with the oil pan gasket. We then took that info to the Machine Shop who said they could see the oil leaking from the rear main and front seal again and replaced the seals in it again. There is still oil leaking from the engine. From the same place. Why we can't seem to stop the leak,and ultimately how to fix the problem?
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Well, I am getting a vibration In 4x4 99 f250 sd, pinion seals leaking and it has a little bit of movement. I have done a pinion bearing in a crown vic I had before. But not a dana 50. What am I in for, I searched but couldn't find a step by step , how long does it take a back yard guy.
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Really noisy rear with leaking axle seals. Looking to swap in a "yard" unit. Mine has 10" shoes. The door sticker says it's a code 86 rear. If I look for a ranger with a code 86, will everything be the same?
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So I want to remove a sunroof cover from a GTi that's being parted out but the problems are there is no power in the car. I know that you need to be able to tilt the sunroof up in order to remove the cover. So, is there any way to do this without power?
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2004 GLI ... Venting opens but when I turn the knob to open the sunroof completely, I can hear and see that it wants to open but it stays neutral and wont open up. I attempted the manual crank. Again, I can get it to vent manually, but when I turn the allan key the other way to fully open the roof, it will go as far as moving just below the roof line, but it will not continue to open. I'm concerned if I crank on it too hard, something will break.
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Trouble shooting my sunroof. When I first go the car the sunroof would open but not close, even when I pushed in the button to reset.
I have replace/ and calibrated replace the switch now I get the fallowing.
When I put it to open all the way, it goes in to vent mode ( the back opens up), ( when i put it close it closes fine).
When i put in vent the sunroof slide back 1/4 of the way. when I try to close it closes and opens back to 1/4 open. I have to close it and press the button in to close it.
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Have a sunroof that rattles when closed while going over bumps? I use my fingers to lift up on it and its barely budging, also floors are soaked....
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last weekend I was closing my sunroof and it went all the way shut, then started going back, just like your garage door does if you leave some stuff blocking the door. I stuck my hand in there and whisked around to see if there was anything blocking it but found nothing just dust. I didn't look closer because I was going down the highway 75mph at the time. Them the issue went away by itself and I left it shut.
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My 2003 Jetta sunroof drains aren't clogged. Nor are they simply cracked. They don't seem to be connected. I tried snaking them out with trimmer line- the thing took like 15 ft of line without resistance, from either end. I suspect they had a mechanic who tried to use compressed air to blow them out, and may have blow the line off its nipple instead.
So I can't install a new, smaller line inside the old one. There's no way to fish the line from one end to the other.
I'm doing the headliner anyways. I can replace them, but I need to know what type of tubing is actually used. Plus, how that tubing would go down the A-pillars and meet up with the rubber nipple? Can that thing be pulled out from the outside of the door jamb?
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So a dead thermostat forced me to drain the coolant in my E350 7.3L. I noticed the previous owner had green coolant in the van so I decided to do a flush and put in the right coolant. I used Shell Rotella ELC. Well, I noticed after coming home the other day that the van was leaking coolant, upon inspection I noticed its now leaking from the water pump, then today the drain valve sprang a leak! What the HECK is going on!? Is it possible that the seals were shocked when I changed the coolant? Not looking forward to doing a water pump replacement on an E350... sure is crammed under the hood.
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I own a 2002 GTI and my sunroof was damaged beyond repair.
A local headliner shop had a used 2004 Jetta sunroof which he sold to me. The shop owner said everything was in working order with the sunroof except the wire harness that runs to the sunroof was missing the plug since it was cut. He recommended just taking the plug from my GTI sunroof motor and soldering it onto the Jetta motor since it may throw off the "timing" of the sunroof motor and would need to be recalibrated if removed. Keep in mind he is an authorized Webasco dealer so I took him at his word.
I cut my plug off of my GTI sunroof motor harness and began to solder it onto the Jetta sunroof.
I quickly noticed the Jetta sunroof motor had one extra wire (Brown). I didn't think it would be a big deal since my GTI doesn't have 6 wires and only requires 5 so I mounted the new sunroof with the Jetta motor onto the car.
The sunroof retracted back into the "fully open" position and would close but would not go into the "vent" position. Each time I would turn the dial to the "vent" position, the sunroof would slide back into the "fully open" position.
I thought this was a bit strange and now I am beginning to wonder if I need to swap the GTI sunroof motor on my car due to it not have the extra wire or is the Jetta sunroof motor going to work fine but another issue is causing this to happen?
Below are the differences in the two sunroof motors. Both are Bosch products.
Jetta Sunroof Motor - Part Number : GDO 849 696 564
This part has 6 wires that connect to it.
White, Green, Gray, Blue, Purple, and Brown
Where as the GTI has only 5 wires on it.
GTI Sunroof Motor - Part Number : GDO 849 696 566
White, Green, Gray, Blue, and Purple
The difference between the two is the additional BROWN found in the Jetta sunroof motor.
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I've been getting some grayish/blueish smoke on cold starts lately and decided to do some investigation to see if there was a problem or just the cold temps.
I googled it and turbo oil seal problem was pretty common so I figured it was easiest to start there. I removed the pipe between turbo and CAC and it had quite a bit of oil it in. The pipe after the CAC had a fair amount as well. I checked the oil level in the engine and it was slightly down but I can't say how accurate the dipstick is nor it was completely full after the last oil change. Either way, not much oil is entering the intake but I would assume any is too much.
Here's my main concern - What's the likelihood of getting a runaway from this?? Is it possible for the oil seal to fail 'more' than it already has putting more oil in the intake allowing for a runaway condition?
Obviously the turbo needs replaced but is it safe to run it the way it is until it completely fails or replace immediately?
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