Alright I drive a 05 1.8t with 68k original miles.. nder a full load my car bogs and hesitates. also my turbo will stop spooling and my boost gauge will go from 10 pounds to about 4 and i will have to let go of the gas and push down again for my turbo to spool.. What this could be I can't figure it out..
Here is my car.....
I have a 97 Pontiac Grand Am w 3.1 engine that is my son's college car. We recently rebuilt the original engine and put it in after having a 99 monte carlo 3.1 engine in it's place and it had a head gasket problem as well. Just before we switched engines my son was noticing that it would kind of hesitate under acceleration from about 1500 rpm to around 2000 rpm especially when it was wanting to up shift. I figured it would resolve itself with the engine change. It did not. It has now gradually gotten worse.
My son drove it to Liberal about 4 hours away and he stated it was worse and especially when you would get into overdrive it would drop down to around 2000 rpm then start sputtering or loading up or just being dead then would down shift to 3rd and try to clean itself out and speed up and then up shift to OD and do the same cycle again. I drove it back and kept it in 3rd gear and seemed to run fine at 2500 or higher. I also had to go thru low, and 2 and feather it up from a standing start. It idles fine as well.
I thought it might be like one of the saturns I had which ended up having a plugged Catalytic converter and a bad coolant temp sensor. This morning I did a test hole and it made no difference. I tried a different coil pack/ESC and it made no difference. I cleaned the MAF sensor and no change. The fuel pressure is 41 then 38 when idling then 43 when remove the fuel pressure regulator vacuum hose. I also changed the fuel filter.
I was kind of ruling out the tps, iac, and egr and water temp sensor as those were part of the other engine when I put the other engine in so they are different and I am assuming they must be good. Plugs and plug wires are new as well. It has not thrown any codes. I did notice that when it is just in park and you press on the accelerator to rev it up it only will rev to 3500 rpm and will shut down like a rev limiter is kicking in and just do a kind of surge thing. My saturn did that too and it was a plugged cat and when I knocked the biskit out of the manifold on that car it stopped. I have already got that ruled out though.
My friend has 2000 12v vr6 auto and recently he experienced his car bogging under acceleration. He had the plugs and wires recently done to solve the problem and the problem went away for a day and has since returned. I scanned it and here are the codes that its threw. After doing some research i'm thinking its the coil pack, since it was pretty foggy/damp today (when the problem started again).
17626.p1218 - fuel injector for cylinder 6 (N84): short to b+
16690.p0306 - Cylinder 6 Misfire Detected
16684.p0300 - Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
2002 Hyundia Accent -- 1.6 DOHC 2D
When I get to 2700-2900 RPM Under load my car will chug out (basically lose power all together for a brief second) then it will come back and chug out again. I am able to max out RPM's while doing this however under load it still chugs along. WHEN not under load it rev's up fine and purr's like a kitten.
So I went and got a new motor for this car same model as was in the car before a 1.6 DOHC. However upon replacing it (also attached still was the timing belt and clutch assembly, never taken off)
So it seems to be getting spark just fine. and I replaced the MAP sensor thinking it was a intake issue however still problem exists when I am under load between 2700 - 2900 RPM it bogs out for a second losing all power.
My 01 tundra can bog down under load - going up a long hill or towing a trailer - with the speed and RPMs steadily dropping until it finally downshifts, and the RPMS shoot up to 4k or so, but I don't regain much speed. This is without cruise control. If I have the cruise control on the problem does not occur. The truck slows, but in a normal way expected under the circumstances. The CEL is not on. No codes are being recorded. The Tranny fluid is full and smells fine.
View 18 RepliesI have a 2007 Volkswagen Jetta MKIV with an automatic 4 speed transmission (m01), and the car has only 100,000 kms on it, was always maintained either by myself or at the dealer, and never abused...ever!. Recently, I noticed that the transmission, going from 2nd to 3rd gear (and only 2nd to 3rd gear) will only sometimes hesitate...meaning the engine either revs a little bit (about 100rpm...yes one hundred) right before it changes gear, or if I'm going up-hill and it happens, it struggles to find the gear from 2nd to 3rd. However, this does not happen all the time, in fact, if someone who may not be as informed about cars, drove the car, the may never notice it. I checked with VCDS and no fault codes for transmission, only 2 fault codes from the engine misfiring because I sprayed the engine bay with water a while ago, and water accumulated in the dizzy.
View 24 RepliesI am having a problem with my car today. When I started it today while going home from work I noticed that it's idling a bit rough. Then i noticed that the pressure is going under -0.8 bar. Golf 4 1.8t boost going under 20 hg at idle. While driving it is normal but when i slow down it hesitates like it's gonna turn off and the pressure goes less than -1 bar .. What the problem may be ?
View 4 RepliesThis problem showed up this summer, different times under load: on hot days, going uphill, AC on. Also, always happens when the temp gauge is just above halfway. Even after a stall, I am able to limp home, and it improves the longer the car runs after the problem starts. First I replaced the fuel filter which was pretty dirty, the problem didn't improve, so had the shop run codes -- low ignition voltage. They replaced the coil, and that seemed to work for a while. Now, in109 degree heat, it's starting to hesitate again, but the engine light hasn't come on this time. I had to replace the radiator about 4 months back, when it was cooler, and don't know if it's somehow temp related. Also, haven't replaced the timing belt since I bought it with 90K (its has 119K now).
View 3 Replies2003 Jetta 1.8T (Manual Transmission)
It does this while driving. Seems like when the car is under load or lots of gas driving there is no sound, but when less gas pedal like coasting it makes this sound.
Car has leaking turbo seal. And bad catalytic converter.
Check engine light is driving me crazy, comes and go depending on weather conditions.
When "ON" the code I get is P0441 and P0171. The engine hesitates for a second or two,then stabilizes.
I have a 1991 Audi 100 that is flawless and paid for. 215,000 miles and doesn't leak or use a drop of any vital fluid. It does have one problem: While under load and accelerating from a dead stop, about 75% of the time the engine hesitates as if it is not getting any fuel. You step on the accelerator, get no response for one second and then off you go, no problem. On occasion while accelerating from a dead stop, the engine will quickly cough, pop like a backfire, and then catch. I have replaced the fuel filter, and through accident inadvertently found out that I seem to have excellent fuel pressure. While at speed, I seem to have little or no problem with instant acceleration when the accelerator is pressed.
View 1 RepliesUnder load, the car shimmies back and forth. Left to right. But only under load. It will even do it in 5th gear at 1500 rpm. The problem goes away when foot off the gas, or in neutral.
Already did a drivers side axle, passenger side axle, and dog bone mount.
I removed the intake to inspect the transmission mount and this is what I found below. Should it be able to wiggle this much? I imagine the mount is original to the car. Which has 156,000 on it currently.
I'm getting misfiring after the engine is hot, but it only shows up under certain load. For example, if I'm in 3rd gear at about 2500 rpm and I give it some amount of throttle, it wont misfire at all but if I give it just a hair more (maybe past 50% or so), it will start misfiring badly and the blinking CEL comes on. The codes it's triggering are misfire on cyl 1 and multiple misfire.
I replaced the coilpack about 6 months ago, that's why I'm hoping for some feedback before I drop a few hundred dollars on another one. I had the plugs out very recently and they look fine. The shape of the wires are difficult to get multimeter probes on so I haven't checked them.
I bought a cheap golf in february. It's an akl engine (1.6sr). Everything was fine on the way home. The car then wasn't used for like a month or two, and was stored outside. When we started using the car it gradually got more and more stuttering. At first it was just a slight stutter when accelerating, but now it's horrible. It will stutter and hesitate like crazy when accelerating or under load, but will cruise just fine at normal rpms. So far I have changed the air filter, fuel filter, spark plugs and a bad spark plug wire, but nothing has worked. I bought a vag scanner but couldn't find any codes. The idle isn't too bad but not perfect. What the problem can be?
View 10 RepliesOk so lately I noticed a horrific rattling coming from the rear of my car. It happens mostly when I'm in a high gear going slow with a load on the gear. It's sort of like the rattle that comes from the exhaust with the same gear load but it's much looser and rattley sounding, and it doesn't always do it. It almost sounds like a piece of sheet metal in my spare tire well rattling when there's a gear load and the exhaust rattles. But I checked in there and it seems tight.
View 5 RepliesI bought a 03 GTI 1.8T. It was hit in the front so it needs a new bumper. The intercooler is smashed to bits. The car will start and idle but as soon as you go to drive into the shop it wants to stall and die out. Will not drive at all. Would the smashed intercooler cause this? No check engine light at all. Car is a 5 speed. All wheels turn free so nothing is keeping it from not rolling.
View 11 RepliesI recently purchased a 2003 jetta 1.8t 5 speed manual and it wasn't making this noise when I first bought it.. It's almost like a growling/grinding noise. It's sounds like it's coming from my middle console but it could be coming from the engine bay hard to tell, but the only time this noise happens is at 1900 rpms when the car is under load like if I'm going a hill it's pretty loud when I'm going slow, the previous owner had the water pump, timing belt, and clutch done 10k miles ago. I have a feeling it's from the clutch/transmission or maybe from the timing belt?
View 2 RepliesInfo: O2J 1.8t, Peloquin LSD, clutchnet 6 puck, VF mounts
Getting a vibration on driver's side during either accel or load up a hill after driving for 20 miles. It's related to distance driven versus engine warm or cold. I can feel it in the pedals, definitely driver's side.
Things checked:
-axles, replaced driver's side, no change
-transmission is full of fluid, looks good
-motor mount bolts tight
-called Peloquins, they said the diff would cause issues while turning and would occur anytime under load, not just when cold
Wheel bearings have about 15k on them and were INA's, and those shouldn't vibrate only on accel or load. I thought about the dogbone, the poly bushings in it are about 35k miles, but makes no sense why it would appear after driving 20 miles.
I just replaced my my k03s with another one with only 20k on it. After I did this, I noticed a loud screech sound when in WOT. The screech lasts a little bit after i left off the gas when revving in neutral. I've been doing research on here, and I've read that it could be a boost leak somewhere or even the turbo dying. The shaft play is minimal though.
View 17 RepliesI have a stage 2 2002 GTI with 135k & I'm having an issue once in a while where if I go WOT the car will only boost up to about 5 (around there, don't remember) psi but if I let go and accelerate again, it'll boost normally again.
No lights or CEL comes on when it happens though. I tried searching for any info but not sure what direction to look at. I have a stock K03S, Forge DV, 3" Turboback, Short Ram Intake, FMIC. Bad N75 or DV?
I can't figure if it's a TB issue as I've just had it replaced or a mount problem. I only get the knock on biting point idle and pull away under load. This noise is driving me insane.
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