I know this isn't the usual ticking of the injectors and I believe it's to fast to be a lifter tapping. I believe it's the camshaft chain hitting against the valve cover. I took the valve cover off and the chain is still tensioned tightly so it makes me wonder what this could be..
View 1 RepliesYesterday the check engine light came on in my 2006 Prius. I took it to the dealer, and they said that the camshaft gear and valve cover need to be replaced. Specifically, the diagnostic report says "P0011. Camshaft position A timing over. Advanced or system performance bank 1. Pin point check LED to CUV gear not switching."
View 9 RepliesI have a 98 F-150 which has a loud knocking at the passenger side valve cover. I am not a mechanic but thought it was a rocker arm knocking. I dropped some oil from the oil pan and did not see and metal shavings. I added some mystery oil but the knocking continued.Loaded the truck on a trailer and hauled to a mechanic to check for the problem. He said the oil ports are clogged and oil can not get to the cam shaft and the cam shaft bearings are probably causing the knocking. He said there is no way to fix this problem and I will have to replace the motor.
I called another mechanic and described what the other mechanic described. The 2nd mechanic said it would require a complete tear down of the motor and would be cheaper to replace the motor. I recently bought this truck just to use for hunting and around town since it already has 198k miles on it.
Is there any way to clean the gunk from the oil ports? The truck will still run but just has the loud knocking so I don't let it run for more that a couple minutes. I have been reading many opinions for sludge blocking the oil passages and am considering removing the valve cover gasket and filling with diesel and let sit for 24 hours then repeat then put in fresh oil and filter. Maybe this will clean the blocked passages.
My 2003' Explorer XLT (4.0L V6) has an oil leak. I tracked it down to the passenger side, rear, bolt head on the valve cover (back by firewall). I took it to a guy who replaced the valve cover gaskets, but it is still leaking. He claimed when he had the cover off he looked for any cracks on it, but did not see any at the time.
Anyways, I was searching around and found several explorers leaking in or around the same area of the valve cover. And it turned out that there issue stemmed from bad timing chain guides, causing the valve cover to crack.
I do notice that on a cold start, I hear a rattling when I first start it up. It rattles for maybe that first 1-2 seconds when starting. Is this my timing chain rattling around? If that is the case, how much this could set a guy back on repairs?
I guess I don't know whether to just replace the valve cover, or if I should dig into it to see if the real issue is the timing chain guides/tensioner. Mileage is approximately 121,000....
I drive a 2003 24V VR6 GLI
I recently did a valve cover repair to stop the dreaded misfire problem. Well, I'm still waiting on a few things but during the spark plug change obviously some of the oil from where the valve cover leaked previously fell into the pistons because I couldn't really clean it all out efficiently. This seems like it would cause a lot of problems? Do you think I should throw old spark plugs in there and let all the oil burn up before finally replacing them? I really don't want to foul up my brand new NGK's.
Also, I pulled p0300, p0305, p0306, so I am guessing oil in the spark plug/coil pack connection may cause some of the misfires, but do you think two of my coil packs are bad still? My plan was to move them around to see what happens after I get the new parts and am actually running again.
I did a valve cover gasket replacement. Changed all spark plugs and coilpacks. The car is still misfiring. I also just did the timing belt and water pump. Why it's still misfiring?? I'm new to this whole forum thing so bear with me lol. I'm wondering if it would be my cat, fuel pump, fuel filter. Or could it be a sensor?
View 2 RepliesI'm thinking of purchasing a 2001 GLX VR6 Jetta with lots of deferred maintenance (shocks/struts, brakes, exhaust). Most worryingly, the valve cover gasket is leaking oil. The price is pretty low, but is such a beast worthwhile at any price or is it better parted out? And the interior is about as beat up as the mechanical--screeching passenger window motor, broken glove compartment ... Is this thing worth being brought back to life?
View 6 RepliesIn order to replace the valve cover do the spark plugs have to be taken off ?
View 12 RepliesMy mk4 sat for a while and upon starting up was misfiring. I checked for pvc leaks and didn't see anything but went ahead and cleaned my maf sensor and decided to pull my coils. Cylinder 1 had oil on the tip and around the spark plug which to me spelled out a bad valve cover gasket. I got all the parts to do the inner and outer gaskets and replace the coil and spark plug, however we got a snowstorm and my luck a rabbit got in and ate the wiring on one of my fuel injector connectors.
So went ahead and put on the new gasket, replaced the coil and plug and bought a new Fuel Injector Connector and spliced in onto the Injector "Pigtail'. I double checked everything was reattached properly and let the gasket sealant dry for 24 hours. I went to start it tonight and after trying to turnover it completely cuts out, wont even start up. I'm extremely frustrated at this point and am thinking the rabbit must have gotten to something else unless I did something wrong in the process of repairing.
New valve cover gasket on my 03 VR6 GTI, new plugs, oil filter and cooler seals, new gaskets on the intake manifold and when we started it up . . . .
[URL] .....
It runs rough.
EPC light is on.
Stall at idle.
Runs great at full throttle.
I have a a 02 jetta 1.8 turbo the code po343 came up after new temp sensor,valve cover gasket and full tune up. is it an easy fix the car is misfiring an very hard starting.
View 1 RepliesThis is a 2000 Passat GLS 1.8 turbo that is in great shape and loaded. It recently had all new tires, brakes, belts, and tune up 98,000 miles. Now the not so good, after died while driving it was taken to the garage and the mechanic told us it needed a new camshaft and timing chain. I didn't have the money to start dumping into the car so I am stuck in limbo.
View 9 RepliesI had it checked out at the dealer and they called it a "weep" so they went on to tell me that VW probably wont approve warranty work for it. I pushed for them to take pictures and send it in anyway.
Now assuming they won't do it, I have been looking for a DIY or a technical order on the job but I can't find anything.
I've got a coolant leak here (I wiped away some of it before taking the picture):
Close up
This is the only place I can find coolant leaking and it's running down all the way to the water pump:
When I wiped away from just below the valve cover gasket it flaked right off and it doesn't appear there is any oil mixed in. I changed the oil today and it didn't appear to have any coolant mixed in either.
The coolant doesn't appear to have any oil in it's nice and pink as it should be. I started the car from a cold start and sat and watched the area waiting for it to leak but nothing ever came out, of course.
I know there shouldn't be coolant leaking from this area anyways but I don't know how else to explain the trail pictured. I definitely have a small leak somewhere as I've found coolant on the floor of the garage before.
Do I just replace the valve cover gasket and move on or is there something else I should be concerned with here?
I just noticed what appeared to be an oil leak around the valve cover gasket, which the VW dealer has determined to be a defective cam sensor. Apparently the VW parts distribution center in Wisconsin has 530 of these in stock, so it may be a common failure. This is on a 2010 GTI with 28,xxx miles. Thought the community would like to know.
View 2 RepliesA couple months ago I was hearing a hissing noise under the hood throwing the same code replaced the Valve cover, after there was no issues. Yesterday saw I had CEL and I was throwing P0174 code and there is a similar vacuum leak sound coming from under the hood but the Breather in the valve cover is not sucking in air. The Oil cap comes off but the engine starts to bog, what it could be now?
View 2 RepliesI have to replace the valve cover gasket this weekend.
View 5 RepliesShe is a 1999.5 Golf 2.0 (although, she just has a rabbit symbol on the hatch, is she a Rabbit or did someone remove the Golf badge?) I just bought the car, with less than 160,000 miles. The dome lights work sometimes, Door Ding works intermittently as well, but sometimes will "glitch" in other words it will be making the sound but it kind of stutters? Odd? The horn sometimes works, however it is very silent? Check engine light is on with a camshaft position sensor code and miss on cylinder 3. Someone told me to replace the "109 relay"... could this be the problem or is this the CCM?
View 5 RepliesI have a 2004 MK4 Golf 2.0l that's been throwing a CPS error code. My brother was going to come down to visit for a weekend. He had done some diagnostic work and had me order a timing kit and a camshaft position sensor from ECS.
So, with my assembled parts, I brought the car in to a reputable shop. Anyway, the guy does the work and now the car is ready and saying that the CPS took nearly 4 hours more of work.
I've got a 2003 Jetta Wolfsberg that is acting up, I'll do my best to describe and outline the steps I've taken with the mechanic to fix the problem,
Occasionally, when starting the car one of two things happens, (1) engine turns over, fires, and then dies. Removing the key, letting the car sit for 30 seconds and trying again usually gets the car started. (2) The car will start but will run VERY roughly (misfiring, sounding like the engine is choking out). Very much like this (only sometimes much worse, usually ending in a stall): [URL] ....
Turning the car off, removing the key, letting it sit, and then trying it again will eventually work, even though it might take a few cycles. Once the car gets running it almost always runs fine from thereon. (There have been a couple occasions where the car has gone into limp mode, even on the freeway. Pulling over, letting it sit, and starting it again almost always fixes the problem. I've not yet been stranded.)
Diagnosis & Steps taken:
I get regular codes for the camshaft position sensor and also for the MAP (Barometric pressure) sensor. Both have been replaced.The MAP sensor and the atmospheric pressure readings are off by about 30 (something like 960 and 990). My mechanic thought that maybe it was an electrical problem, he noted that the two sensors mentioned above share a common ground. He replaced the ground because it looked corroded. This brought the pressure numbers both to 990 and the car ran perfectly for a few weeks.One thought was to splice in a new wire to the MAP sensor, to see whether it was a signal problem, this hasn't been done yet. Another possibility was that there is a problem with the ECM.
I THINK, that the problems began just after having the computer flashed at the dealership two years ago. I'd got a code about an update and so the dealership did this. I don't know whether this could have had any effect on these problems, but the times lined up too well to not mention it.
My 2007 3.3l SF timing chain cover is leaking.It has 93,000Kms and is still covered by warranty.The Dealer said it was a 17hr break down job to do.
I am wondering if there are things I should get done/replaced when they open the engine up. I had asked at the dealer if there were other parts that should be replaced at this time, but was told that there was not.