Golf IV / Jetta IV :: CEL Comes On / ASR Light Follows Shortly After Every Startup
Jan 13, 2016
2003 gti 1.8t. I'm having a problem with this engine code, it keeps coming back and when the CEL comes on the ASR light follows shortly and will then come on after every start up.
For the p0171 I've replaced:
Crankcase vent hose.
Y split running to the pcv
MAF
Coil packs
Spark plugs
Fuel pump
I also have done a seafoam treatment through tbe intake and ran a bottle (twice) of injector cleaners through the gas tank.
Nothing has fixed the code. I found cracks in the brake Booster vac line and had the line replaced (brake light would flash under boost, doesn't anymore). Can't find any other leaks except for maybe the secondary air pump (which I haven't replaced yet).
The OBD2 monitors all run. the EVAP and catalytic monitor won't click over to ready. I have a new pcv and a fuel filter coming in the mail in another vain attempt to fix the issue.
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I am getting this sound when I start driving. After I reverse out of my driveway or parking space and start driving forward, it usually happens right after I shift into 2nd, although I have intentionally left it in 1st before and duplicated the sound. It sounds like a short "puff" coming from near where right in front of my legs. It's not very loud but is definitely noticeable without the radio on. I thought maybe it was the clutch, or maybe the front driver's side brakes, or even some sort of valve opening, but not sure...
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So like the title states I have a MK4 VR6 Jetta that was running before I ran into this issue and was idling but wouldn't reach over 2k before sputtering and stopping acceleration and the EPC light would turn on. Now the car starts for a second at a time before dying which to me sounds like the Immobilizer but the vehicle shows no blinking immobilizer code while starting. What I can check to get this straightened out. I miss my VR6 ... I have been thinking it could be:
1) Fuel pump/ Fuel pump relay
2) Ecu Issue
3) Crank/Knock Sensor
I'm just confused because it was throwing no codes before, the temp sensor worked as the car warmed and the only engine light occurred upon reaching operating temp and due to me being catless upon restarting the vehicle it threw an o2 fault code. Just so confused ...
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V6 diesel engine producing white smoke shortly after startup. I noticed it this evening when leaving to come back to London and shortly after starting the journey the exhaust was laying down a rather nice smoke screen that stopped very quickly after about 750 metres.
I only noticed a small amount of smoke later in journey when pulling away from some lights and it was illuminated by the car behind. The smoke definitely wasn't black and the only thing I can think of that's been out of order recently was the oil being overfilled by the dealer. I did an oil change this weekend and removed about 8 litres (the engine accepted about 6.75).
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I've bought new starter cleaned starter contacts battery contacts jumped it bypassed the ignition and relay but taking a wire and touching the positive to the signal wire..used jumper cables as a direct ground to to the starter the torque converter spins so it's not seased...I don't understand what could possibly be stopping this thing...it's just one click like the starter is jumping out but not enough power to turn... 2002 Jetta 1.8t auto
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I noticed last week when I leave the house in the morning my car was leaving oil striped down my road. Jacked car up Saturday AFTER RUNNING TO STORE found a little oil on bottom of my car but not nowhere near what I was thinking there would be. Cleaned motor fired up found no leaks at all . However this morning after car had sat 20hrs or so I looked under car before I cranked her up clean.
Got it cranked her up and oil was streaming from the oil cooler. Not on the block side but towards the front of car side of cooler. It did this for a few seconds then stopped. I am gonna order new front and rear orings for oil cooler. I am just stumped why it only happens at a cold start and for a few seconds not consistently.
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I've noticed recently that on startup I'll hear a minor grinding noise after the engine has kicked over. Seems to happen more when the car is really cold.
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Just got this vr6 a week ago and noticed what sounds like a valve clicking, I thought maybe it was low on oil or something, so I just changed the oil and filter yesterday, clicking was gone from what i could hear. Start up today to go to work, clicking is back, I've noticed after the engine heats up the clicking subsides, but when you first start up I'm hearing it tick in the same area. Thinking maybe a intake/fuel cleaner next? My other 24v never did this. I've never taken it over 3k or anything until after it's warmed up.
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My 01 Jetta 2.0 recently started making a grinding sound on start up! had the crank sensor and the starter changed about a month ago and everything was fine but yesterday, for absolutely no reason it would make a horrible grinding sound on start up.Not the typical one where the engine starts and 2 seconds later it screeches (I searched) but while the engine is turning over it grinds. Once it didn't turn over at all just grinding sound. It's not all the time tho either?
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So my VR6 shakes quite a bit on startup and when I turn it off. I figured it was the dogbone mount. I did the clutch trick, jacked up the front end and engaged the transmission. Of course the engine shook a lot, in a forward to back motion, signalling the dogbone was bad. Shifts into and out of 1st and 2nd were pretty rough and i could feel it in both the driver and passenger seats during idle.
Well I just installed the ECS dogbone and while I can't really feel it much in the seats anymore, it still shakes quite a bit once the transmission is engaged. Low end shifts really haven't gotten much better either.
So I am thinking its either one of the other mounts, or the polyurethane bushing needs to be worked in. I am leading toward the former.
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So I was on my to get some food and when started my car it was shaking really bad and had a ticking sound. I popped the hood and the engine was shaking violently, it drove fine one day to walmart and the next day started doing this. I am thinking it could be the coil pack because it was raining when I went to start it.
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My 2000 Golf 2.0 started making a bit of noise on start-up and also if I rev it to say 2000RPM and then when the RPM goes back down it will hear some sort of "knock". After the car heats up as far as I know the noise is not there anymore.
This only happened today so I though I would check the oil level. It is fine but the dipstick was almost completely covered by air bubbles.
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2000 Jetta MKIV ... 2.0L GL
I've been dealing with random misfire codes on my Jetta (P0300, P0301-P0304). I've since replaced the spark plugs, wires, fuel filter, MAF senor, & camshaft positioning sensor but the problem still persists. The misfires occur right on start-up and don't stop which is leading me to the coil pack being bad.
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I have a 1999.5 jetta vr6, the CEL is on (p0102 MAF sensor circuit low or something like that...). When i start it up, it often dies really soon after and until its warm it will idle really roughly. I'll have to start it up between 5 and 15 times... Once its warm and about 190 F oil temp it runs just fine, but still has a slightly rough idle.
I have a new MAF sensor coming in, or if there are any other things i should check that might contribute to the problem.
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I have a raspy exhaust leak sounding noise when I start my 2003 GTi 1.8t that cuts off just a few minutes after I start the car and a fellow owner told me he thought it was a vacuum pump that has rivets that fail and allow the case to separate and cause this noise. Where this pump is located? This former coworker of mine said he replaced the rivets with long slender screws and nuts after removing the rivets but I lost contact with him and don't know where this pump is located.
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Every time I start my Golf there is a beep, the EPC light and ABS light come on and stay on, and the brake warning light starts flashing and continues to flash.
I have had the fault codes read and it came up with the following:
0414 Control unit improperly coded Faulty
0606 Yaw rate sensor Circuit defective.
What these faults actually mean and what might cause them? I'm quite keen to resolve the issue as anything brakes related makes me nervous, plus I do drive the car hard and use the 4Motion system, which I believe utilises the ABS system?
Probably worth mentioning that the car is fitted with a Series 1 Blue Haldex controller, in case that makes any difference?
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I've got a 2003 Jetta Wolfsberg that is acting up, I'll do my best to describe and outline the steps I've taken with the mechanic to fix the problem,
Occasionally, when starting the car one of two things happens, (1) engine turns over, fires, and then dies. Removing the key, letting the car sit for 30 seconds and trying again usually gets the car started. (2) The car will start but will run VERY roughly (misfiring, sounding like the engine is choking out). Very much like this (only sometimes much worse, usually ending in a stall): [URL] ....
Turning the car off, removing the key, letting it sit, and then trying it again will eventually work, even though it might take a few cycles. Once the car gets running it almost always runs fine from thereon. (There have been a couple occasions where the car has gone into limp mode, even on the freeway. Pulling over, letting it sit, and starting it again almost always fixes the problem. I've not yet been stranded.)
Diagnosis & Steps taken:
I get regular codes for the camshaft position sensor and also for the MAP (Barometric pressure) sensor. Both have been replaced.The MAP sensor and the atmospheric pressure readings are off by about 30 (something like 960 and 990). My mechanic thought that maybe it was an electrical problem, he noted that the two sensors mentioned above share a common ground. He replaced the ground because it looked corroded. This brought the pressure numbers both to 990 and the car ran perfectly for a few weeks.One thought was to splice in a new wire to the MAP sensor, to see whether it was a signal problem, this hasn't been done yet. Another possibility was that there is a problem with the ECM.
I THINK, that the problems began just after having the computer flashed at the dealership two years ago. I'd got a code about an update and so the dealership did this. I don't know whether this could have had any effect on these problems, but the times lined up too well to not mention it.
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1999 Olds Intrigue, 3.8 eng.Last month, I replaced the Oil Level sensor while changing the oil, which was causing an oil leak due to a broke seal. Three weeks later, the "Low Oil" light came on and stayed on shortly after starting the car. I checked the oil level and it was full. I went ahead and drove it to work. No engine operating errors during the drive. While continuing to drive the car (yes, driving it), I did notice that the light stays off after starting the engine at operating temps, but comes on while the engine is cool (Faulty sensor?) I asked an Autozone associate about a Oil Pressure gauge to test the engine but was told that they dont sell such a thing. Chiltons repair manual says to use a 3amp fuse jumper to test the Oil Level and Oil Pressure sensor. What a fuse jumper is.
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My exhaust system light came on today shortly after re-fueling. I called the dealer and the service advisor suggested that I open the gas cap and re-close it making sure that it clicks. If that is the problem he said the light should go off in a few key cycles. There is no warning in the MFI. In the manual it says that there is an MFI warning about the fuel cap that says "CHECK FUEL CAP" and that the message will go away in about 10 minutes after you click the gas cap and restart the vehicle. I do not have anything in the MFI and it seems to be running just fine. (V-8)
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Just replaced the RR speed sensor (that was fun) nothing a big hammer and flit tip screw driver can't fix there. Just 2 days ago the abs and asr light popped on the dash AGAIN. Ode too joy. Used a simple universal scanner too see if I could pull any codes, always worked for me, sure the scanner sees manufacturer specific codes it didn't bother me given I have the Bentley manuals. Already searched and found these lights related too codes or srs and brake light. Not my case. Given it's pretty odd I figured for future events of other mk4 owners this would be a good idea.
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Was taking an exit ramp going about 90km/h, not doing anything crazy or abnormal, and my ASR light on my dash flicked on a couple of times and it cut the power, as though I was slipping while accelerating in snow. I hit the ASR switch on my console, and all problems went away.... then I parked my car for a few hours, took it for a drive later on in the night and all was well.
Not sure if this makes a difference but I bottomed out kinda hard on highway about 20 minutes before this happened going about 80km/h.
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