Golf IV / Jetta IV :: CEL Came On Along With Hard Shifts
Aug 2, 2016
My brother has a 2005 MKIV Jetta 1.8T with the auto transmission. He called me this morning saying that his check engine light came on this morning (a regular occurrence; it's not flashing) and the car is 'shifting funny.' He said that the car is not shifting out of first gear until about 3000 rpm, and when it does it's a 'hard shift' with an audible clunk/thump, then it shifts fine after that. He's has a number of small issues with this car lately, but nothing strange with the transmission.
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Will overfilling transmission fluid cause hard shifts? I used ~4.3 quarts to refill. How much should I drain out? My check engine light came on.
Basically, I am having hard shifts from 2-3 and 3-4 in tip mode and auto. more tip mode tho.
-I did a complete solenoid change b/c of cold start problem with n92 solenoid.
Fixed the cold start shifting out of first.
-Did a trans fluid change with Mercon V ATF Fluid works fine.
-Just changed oil on 4th of July last week.
Yesterday my check engine light came on. It's been about 500 miles since the solenoid change/trans fluid change, and 100 miles since the oil change.
Now my Mk4 is having this obnoxious shifting. I am thinking I possibly added too much trans fluid into my system as I do not have the VAGcom tool.
I drained out (bone dry drain till no more dripping from check/drain plug), roughly 4 quarts. I added 4.3 give or take 0.1 quarts back into the car.
Now I'm worried because everywhere I'm reading says anywhere from as little as 2.1 quarts to 3.5 quarts.
Should I drain out 0.5 quarts (because I know theres over 4 in there now) to make it 3.5 quarts?
Or should I just redrain the whole thing and start by measure one quart at a time?
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A little background: My 2015 DSG is just shy of 40k miles. I have recently the DSG fluid hoping it would fix my issue. I also have a DSG tune, but the problem has been around well before the tune.
So here's the intermittent issue.
When I leave a corner or from a stop, the DSG tries racing toward 6th as quick as it can and even with my pedal beyond the 50% margin. When it does and my window is down, I can hear a slight squeak when it shifts, and you can feel the hard engagement of the gear. What the issue could be or what could be causing the squeak? I also get a slight vibration under WOT in 5th and 6th at low RPM's. I am thinking its either the mechatronics unit or the clutch packs that are prematurely wearing out.
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I have 99 f350 v10 4x4 and trans shifts great under light rpms but 2-3 shifts very hard. At wide open from about 35 mph it will shift down and take off like a bullet but wont shift until I lift my foot and then it bangs hard from 2-3. All other gears are smooth. I did some searching and have found some threads saying it could be an accumulator spring that is broken? Truck has 115,000 miles on it. love the truck but want to fix this before it does some damage.
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I'm sure this has been brought up before. Whats the rattle you hear when accelerating hard when the transmission shifts? Exhaust note, exhaust hardware, dsg transmission, engine sound?
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A few days ago I changed the transmission fluid in my 03 jetta with an 02J. After this it felt nice for a day or two, but then it became very hard, and sometimes impossible to select 3rd and 5th gear. The other gears feel a little funny as well, but they are working fine. I used OEM VW/Audi fluid from German auto parts, and when I used the same stuff in my old GTI, it was great. Maybe a motor/trans mount got loose and its messing with the shifter cables? I really don't know what it can be, but it is very frustrating as this is my daily driver, and I am starting college on Tuesday, so I just need my car to work properly without a lot of downtime at this point.
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Just bought a 2005 Jetta 2.0 4 speed automatic (non tiptronic) with 92,000 miles. This is the old 1999-2005 style, not the New Jetta that was introduced that year.
I've done research and have found that the transmissions on these bodied Jettas seem to be acting up.
This one shifts fine with a few weird things. When I start the car cold (this is in LA, so even over night the temps don't go below 60), and I put it in reverse, the car does not go into reverse for a good 3-5 seconds. This does not happen after the car has been driven for a while. After that it shifts fine, no delay.
The other symptom is sometimes the shifts from 1st to 2nd gear are a bit rough, with a thump sound, but nothing too out of the ordinary...if it wasn't for the other mentioned problem above, I wouldn't think twice about the 1st to 2nd shift as many automatic cars have some rough shifts. All the other gears shift fine.
I've done the basic research to know there could be a couple things causing this such as clutch piston seals and excessive drainback. I want some more info since I know there are my experienced people on this forum. Should I be worried and are there any things I should do immediately?
I have also found that these transmissions are sealed and can not be checked for oil levels with out taking to expert shop. I've also seen that they are very sensitive to overfill and any service needs to be performed by experts. Should I just continue and come back to this if symptoms get worse?
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I bought this car and I've changed out the Clutch Position Sensor, the black one on the clutch mount. Started to work and start but now it's doing the same symptoms as before. So here is what is going on.
1. Randomly doesn't start, full power comes on, and fuel system turns on, immobilizer works just fine as far as I can tell (key light turns off)
2. Cruise control doesn't work (which lead me to the CPS)
3. High revs between shift, once I push the clutch to shift it revs up high, I noticed that if I stay under 3k it doesn't do it as much, but if I go HAM on it it revs up about 1k rpm more than at shift point. But if I shift nice it revs about 2-400 rpm.
It's been tuned by C2 Motorsports, done by a certified mechanic, that's the only mod on the car, besides suspension. I bought the car and dropped 1100 to fix it to drive right, newish throttle body, and a major vacuum hose, and the tune within a month of getting the car and the tune was to mainly flash the ecu so it wouldn't pull two codes for a leak that wasn't there anymore.
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So I have a 2010 jetta 2.5 and my key is stuck in the ignition has been for a couple weeks also don't know if it's related but when I start the car I can pull the shifter out of park without pressing shifter button just have to press brake and after I shut the car off if I take it out of park and put it in gear it just freely rolls only stops if it's in park. NOT A DSG
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I'm wondering if this piece of plastic has anything to do with it,also it is a 2001 jetta 2.0 .I just don't know what it is, or what to look up as a part # or name.
About 2 months ago,it just started acting up, shifts fine, but I have to push down hard 75% of the time to get it into reverse.
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I have a 2.0. Custom gt28 turbo project. Been up and running for awhile now. Took it on a 4 hr trip home and drove it back.
All of a sudden after the holidays it started to overheat and I had no heat. It will not overheat when idling. I replaced the thermostat recently. Lower hose gets warm when it opens. I replaced the green top sensor. I have done a wire tuck etc and I am running a closed coolant system. I believe I have gotten the air out of the system.
It will idle all day at 190. But as soon as I drive and accelerate hard or go over 50 mph it overheats and will not cool off unless I pull over and turn the car off. It will steam as if it's losing coolant somewhere but I think it's at the cap (too much pressure?).
I am thinking water pump but I am not sure. I got the car with 124k miles I'm at 127000. I was told timing was done at 90 could the pump be failing already? Also when it overheats I get a cel for misfire is that normal?
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When the car is in gear it's great! Or at least it seems great. However, trying to place the Shift Lever in the car into the gear "slots?" is troublesome.
It feels as though there is a wall in the way for each gear, and i have to force my way through the wall. It's not absolutely Terrible, for i've been driving like this for months. But i want a smother shift! I want to be able to just slide the Shift Lever into gear without any hangups or major resistance.
Double Clutching seems to work, however it might just be from the small loss of RPMs through the process of double clutching.
Personally I would rather not have to double clutch just to see a slight improvement. I have big feet and they constantly are rubbing on the floor mat as well as the plastic above the pedals, so double clutching always feels like i'm wedging my foot into a hole, then back out and in, before i can go into another gear lol.
The problem is only a real issue when i'm in higher RPMs giving the car more gas. I.E. after a fast launch in first, shifting even around 5500 puts a WALL up on second gear making it impossible for me to get it into second gear, after not getting it into second i usually throw it in third, and essentially lose all the acceleration i had from the first gear launch.
As well is there anyway to make the clutch a little stiffer? She grabs fine, i just like stiffer clutch, it requires less of me trying to wedge my huge foot on the pedal.
It's an un-molested MKIV Jetta VR6 with 167k.
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Last Saturday I got gas on my way home from work then let my car sit all day. Sunday morning i go to start my car and it starts terribly along with a very rough idle. The ride to work was hideous as the car could barely climb a hill (max 25mph and high RPMs 3000 to 4000). Along with bad hill climbing power the car could barely get to 60mph.
I added a bottle of Gumout as I thought I might have gotten bad gas this had no result. While trying to figure out what was wrong I also replaced the air filter.
Fast forward to Tuesday I decide to inspect the fuses in the car and under the hood (all of which looks in good condition). I started the car before i went inside and it seemed the same as it has been all week. Wednesday morning I go to leave and the car refuses to start. It tries to start but immediately quits and then shakes wildly while trying to start. I have since changed the fuel filter, replaced 5 ignition coils, and given it 5 new spark plugs. The car is still doing the exact same thing it was Wednesday morning.
This is a VW Jetta 2005 2.5 Engine
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I only see this issue after I've been driving a while and I've just topped off. I don't always use the same octane, (I'll use higher octane on long drives) so I may be mixing octanes on these occurrences. But I will have a problem getting the car turned over after filling up. I hold the starter on and pump the gas to get it started (maybe 5-10 seconds).
2.slow BEV engine
2004 GL
107K miles
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1.8T ... Well, initially, engine light came on with a violent shake from the engine compartment. It was really really bad. I thought the engine mount just broke off or something...
First I looked at the coil packs and the spark plugs. The spark plugs were pretty old (I got the 02 Jetta 1.8T at ~140k miles for 1k, so no surprises). Spark plug on cylinder 2 was real bad, and that was the cylinder with the misfire code. Got a new set of spark plugs first. It worked a lot and the violent shuddering mostly went away.
The engine still idled erratically jumping and dipping at idle, even with the A/C off. So I replaced the coil pack on cylinder 2 after doing the coil pack switch test... After replacing the one coil pack, the engine idles like like it's new.
When I put the car in neutral and rev the engine to the redline, it revs nicely, very smooth. When I drive the car, when I accelerate reasonably slowly with the traffic, the car drives just fine. If I keep the car in lower gears and use light throttle to accelerate, it is smooth even past the rpm range where the turbo would be spooled up.
It is only when I dip into the throttle a bit more (no where near full throttle) to try to pass a car or accelerate just a bit harder, a little past ~2200rpm ish which is when the turbo starts spooling from the sound of it, it starts shuddering badly, and check engine light comes back on. The code shows misfire in cylinder 2.
My guess is there's something off with fuel system. My non-mechanic thought process is that maybe the injector is clogged and when it's light throttle, light acceleration, it injects little fuel and its ok, but when under heavier load / throttle, it tries to inject more fuel, but can't because it's clogged...
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Over the past few weeks, my car (2002 Golf 2.0L) has gotten really hard to shift into 1st and reverse (has crunched once or twice), but only when the car is hot, after driving it for a little while. When this happens, and I try to shift into reverse, the shifter feels really "sticky" and can get kind of stuck in the depressed position near reverse.
I bled the hydraulic system and replaced the slave cylinder, but no dice. I haven't noticed any clutch slipping. Shop wants to replace the whole clutch. Is this the right answer?
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I have 2002 1.8t jetta 5spd with 200k KM, last winter it was difficult getting into gear when it was cold. the fluid has never been changed, so that might be the issue.
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i have a 2001 saturn l200 2.2 about 160000 miles..sometimes when i drive the car it shifts hard and sometimes it shifts smoothly..i did have new transmission fluid and new filter put in..i did have transmission scan for codes and there was no codes..i do have a engine code came up it was Crankshaft Position Sensor..cud a Crankshaft Position Sensor cause a car to shifts hard sometimes...
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I have a 1993 4WD Toyota extended cab pickup with 200,000 miles on it that is getting hard to shift into first gear. I have to double/triple clutch run through the gears to get it to shift into first. It is not hard to shift all the time but the issue is getting more and more frequent.
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2000 cavalier z24 2.4 170k automatic....
At first I thought this was a transmission fluid problem but had it checked and it's full. This may be a combo of 2 issues. At first it shifted so hard I couldn't really drive the car. AutoZone computer said the tp sensor needed replaced. I got the tp sensor and the issue did change for the better in that I can drive the car now but there is still a problem.
Its an automatic 2000 cavalier z24 2.4. shifts hard into drive and through the gears, although a bit softer into 3rd and 4th. The weird thing is, and this is how I manage driving it with less issue, is that if I slightly let off the gas real quick and push again when I think it should shift normally, it does. Every time. If I don't let off the gas and push again slightly it will shift late and hard which I imagine isn't good for the trans to deal with.
Not sure if it might be something like a speed sensor or what.
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my wife has an 06 with 77,xxx miles on it. as far as i know there has never been any tranny upkeep done on the vehicle. we have owned the care for approx 15 months. it doesnt act up all the time. it will shift real hard into reverse, feels like it is popping into it real bad. then at times it feels like it slips very little going into overdrive. and at times it will pop when shifted into drive. it is hard to predict, i thought maybe when it was warmed up and the fluid was warm it might not do this, but it does. i know nothing about this thing, the dealer wants me to bring it in so they can plug it in?
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