Golf IV / Jetta IV :: CEL Came On After Running Idle For About 45 Seconds
Aug 1, 2015
I was coming at the climb, my car hit limp mode twice and later I noticed my CEL was on. I let it sit over night when I got where I was going and started it up today started fine but the CEL came on after it ran idle for about 45 seconds. I check the oil and it was on the low end. What it could be?
I drive a mk4 tdi with a malone tune. I am heading back to the valley tomorrow evening I'm just by kamloops right now. Also what oil should I top it with just so it isn't so low for the return trip? (Always get my oil done at the shop)
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Weird A/C issue that started yesterday. Had ac on all morning, start my car after lunch, a/c runs for a few seconds, hear a squeak (like a belt sticking) no more a/c. Moving the temp knob makes no change just all hot air. Both fans engage, compressor and what I believe is the clutch engage, hoses get cold, and no CEL's. Really stumped here.
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Random rough idle about every 30 seconds at low 700s (rpms) and it'll bounce up and down a little. The code was p1515 (No CEL or other lights have come on yet) which is something about the intake manifold valve and there is an air-shooting noise that is pretty loud but just sounds like air that's being lost somewhere like maybe a leak and that happens when i rev right before you can hear the engine rev the air/shooting noise occurs. I don't really think I'm losing power but I got the car recently so maybe I am and don't notice it. If this is a common leak or something with the intake manifold valve let me know,
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the last couple weeks the engine has been running poorly, rough idle .... and sputters until about 4k rpm with a noticeable loss in power. No clue what it is ... it seems to spring up after I got a coolant hose leak on top of the motor.
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So after taking my car to the stealership to get defective door seals fixed, I start driving home and I realize the front tire is flat. After changing to the awesome 17" spare, I decide to get gas. After filling the car up, it started for a few seconds running real rough and then shut off. I tried restarting it multiple times for about 10 minutes and the car kept turning over, but no start. I finally just shut it completely off for five minutes and it restarted, but is running roughly with the CEL light on and another green light, EPL, or something like that. I was able to drive home, but the check engine light is on still and runs like crap.....Back to the dealership in the morning. What this could be? I noticed lately sometimes when I push the gas hard it kinds of bogs down for a sec before accelerating. I had them check this and they said nothing looked wrong when they tested it. Fuel pump maybe?
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I've been having some issues with my mk4 R32. Right now i'm leaning toward changing the fuel pump and filter but i want to be sure before i do.....
Problem: I've been daily driving my r32 to work for the past couple weeks and about once a week it will start, idle for a couple seconds and then just bog out and die. no codes, just idle, then chugging and dying. it will fire with some starter fluid and will sometimes hold a very sickly idle but most the time will just run the starter fluid out. the weird thing is is that it's intermittent and will happen randomly and if i leave it overnight or sitting for a couple hours it will fire up like nothing was wrong. i just wanted some input on what it might be before i replace the pump. i have already done the relay so its not that.... the only code that it has ever thrown while i have owned it was for the intake changeover valve (N156) which i cleared and it hasnt yet to come up again.....
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During the winter, i always noticed that when starting up the car for the first time, the rpm always jumped high for about 60sec - probably around 1100. i know is normal - just the antichoke kicking in. However, summer is almost here and today was a hot day, and when i started the car and it automatically idled at 600rpm straight away. Is this normal ? or has something happened to my autochoke?
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I have my VRT to the point where it should be able to be started and run but it just cuts off after about 2 seconds.
Here are a few videos I took while trying to start it. To me or sounds like an immobilizer issue but I don't know for sure.
Please ignore my mess of an engine bay... that's only temporary while it try to get this thing running.
[URL] ....
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02 Jetta GLS Turbo 1.8. The car runs perfectly fine, and has good power, but one out of 5 starts at minimum it sets the check engine light exactly 6 seconds after starting the engine. It is most commonly a P0340 - Cam Position Sensor Circ Error, I'd say 70% of the time. The other 30% of the time it is a P0011 - Camshaft Position Timing-Over-Advanced. And once or twice it set a P0012 - Camshaft Position Timing-Over-Retarded. It will only ever set one of the codes. I clear it after it sets, and it will never set the code while driving the car.
- I've double-checked the timing belt, and it is spot on. Could not ask for a more perfect lineup of the timing marks.
- There is no noise or rattle on cold start
- The car carries good oil pressure and I'm on a fresh change with Pentosin 5w40
- I checked continuity on the outer two pins on the cam position sensor with a result of 1.910 ohms.
What I should be looking for next? Almost spent for a new cam position sensor, but hate to throw money if there is something I could test to narrow this down. I can't find any test procedures in the Bentley manuals, but maybe I'm not looking in the right spots. The index has no mention of the camshaft position sensor.
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The car will start and run for about 10 seconds and stall. The engine has been completely rebuilt 20k miles ago. The timing is perfect and the car makes 190psi on every cylinder
I should point out that it is NOT the immobilizer. it has been checked over and over and verified to not be the immobilizer. Here is everything that has been done.
- New fuel pump
- fuel filter
- fuel pump relay
- fuel pressure regulator
- fuel injectors
- fuel pressure has been verified
- spark plugs
- ignition coils
- crankshaft position sensor
- cam position sensor
- MAF sensor
- throttle body
- CU has been tried in another Jetta. worked fine
- gauge cluster worked fine in other Jetta as well.
- brand new battery
- alternator checked and passed
- grounds checked, all fine
The car has been scanned with VCDS. Here are the results:
6 Faults Found:
01330 - Central Control Module for Central Convenience (J393)
53-10 - Supply Voltage Too Low - Intermittent
00955 - Key 1
09-10 - Adaptation Limit Surpassed - Intermittent
01331 - Door Control Module; Driver Side (J386)
53-10 - Supply Voltage Too Low - Intermittent
01332 - Door Control Module; Passenger Side (J387)
53-10 - Supply Voltage Too Low - Intermittent
01333 - Door Control Module; Rear Left (J388)
53-10 - Supply Voltage Too Low - Intermittent
01334 - Door Control Module; Rear Right (J389)
53-10 - Supply Voltage Too Low - Intermittent
Here is a video of what the car is doing.
I am able to rev the engine but it dies quickly afterwards. vacuum pressure looks completely fine on the boost gauge.
My roommate has a 1.8t jetta as well so I have access to his car for trying things with.
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So I go to start up the old girl the other day and she turned right over, ran for about 2 seconds, and shut down. I tried to start it again with the same result. When I turn the ignition forward, before starting it, this image with a car and a key below it starts flashing on the gauge and the odometer starts flashing "service". I tried using a different key with the same results, what this might be?
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So CEL had been on since I got it, but last week, the CEL would flash briefly for about 10secs and go away.
I know I shouldn't be driving it when it flashes but I gotta work.... I've noticed some shuddering when driving so I checked it for some codes and came back with the following:
16684 Random misfire detected
16689 Cylinder 5 misfire
16687 Cylinder 3 misfire
17524 Bank 1 sensor 1 circuit open
16524 Oxygen sensor circuit bank 1 sensor 2
17606 02 Sensor Heater circuit Bank1 Sensor 2- Electrical malfunction
The car would run perfectly smooth most times but every now and then I can feel the shudder in my seat, kind of worrying.. (I know I shouldn't be driving it when it flashes but I gotta work...). Noticed its more of a problem when cold and wet, so could it actually be coils/sparkplugs? Super poor right now cuz of school but don't want a dead car, which approach to take and what part to fix first?
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I have a question about my Golf MK4 1998 - 1.6
I was out driving to work today, and when i cam to a roundabout, the engine stopped. The battery light was lighting as if the ignition only was on, and the steering wheel was extremely hard to use. The gal pedal didn't even work either. After a few(2-3-4) seconds, the car automatic started again, and i could gas and steer normally.
What could this be due to? I know i have some problems with the starter on the car(when i start it sometimes it gives me this loud elephant noise), but it should not have anything to do with it..
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I have a 2002 Jetta TDI Manuel. New to me from brother. While there are some issues I can deal with ....soft touch turned to goo, etc there is one thing I am worried about.
He said the lights(all electrics) will go out intermittently. Head lights, turn signals, radio, interior lights. He says the car runs fine while the electronics are out (except no headlights). Usually only happens for a few seconds but occasionally will last minutes. Longest it has happened is 10 minutes and the lights all come back on by themselves.
What could cause this and what needs to be done for fixing? He is a outboard mechanic and has kept the car up great, but he doesn't like to mess with wiring/electrics. I'm sure he has checked the basics.
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I have a 04.5 gli 1.8t. When I start the car in the am and give it some gas to go it sputters for a couple seconds and then goes just fine and I have no more issues with it. Where to start looking? No trouble codes thrown either...
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I have a 2002 jetta 1.8t that overheated on me out of no where i have read some post and couldn't really find what i need it never overheated on me before and this was the first time and when ever i open the reservoir where you put in coolant everything spills out its my first time owning a volkswagen, it happens as soon as i start driving like 30 secs and temperature starts to rise.
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My vr6 some times loses its power but it's weird because the check engine light does not appear. It does for like 30 seconds then it goes back to driving normally.
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I recently installed the CTS Turbo Billet aluminum subframe stiffening kit. Now when the car is idling around 800 or so RPM (a little higher when A/C is running) there is a strong vibration in the cabin of the car. Once I rev it up to around 1,000 RPM the vibration is gone. Any solutions to lessen the vibrations?
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After running at normal temperature for about 10 minutes, my car starts to overheat. I noticed my radiator fan wasn't running at any speed, but my auxiliary fan was running fine. I checked the thermal switch and that was okay, because the auxiliary A/C fan still worked after jumping, and the big fan didn't. I replaced the fan assembly and now both fans work fine, so I assume that my thermostat is okay (maybe not and I'm missing something?). Even though both fans are running, my car still overheats, but maybe after 15 minutes now as opposed to 10. Water pump seems to be fine because I can see it pumping back into the coolant reservoir, and it doesn't seem to be sputtering or anything. Just replaced coolant recently after flushing with water, so I assume that the radiator isn't clogged. I also recently replaced the oil because it needed it anyway. It is still overheating so now I'm stuck. I can get to work and back because it's only a 5 minute trip and it doesn't have time to overheat, but I don't want to keep driving it obviously.
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So I am at a loss. My gti starts and runs great, but not for long its like the fuel just cuts off. It won't stay running long enough for the computer to even pop a code...
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I have been beatingy head against the wall for the last month with this car. It started out by just running really rough and stalling out. Found out that I had a bad clamp on the air intake that attaches to the throttle body. Replace that after I already replaced the MAF. Everything was great till couple days later then the car just crank crank crank no fire....
I cleaned the grounds pulled the plugs and coils, had perfect spark. Put everything back come to find out after going thru my Bentley manuals I jumped around the fuel pump relay fuel pump kicked on perfect started great! Replaced the fuel pump relay BAM! Ran great!!!! For 2 days..... After that right when I pulled into the drive way the car would not start.... So I tried everything again.... To no avail..... Check the codes again, now I'm throwing these codes which yes I did cross reference in my Bentley manual.
P1117- O2 sensor heater circuit bank 1 sensor 2 short to ground
P1198- O2 sensor heater circuit bank 1 sensor 2 electrical malfunction
P1472- EVAP emission control LDP circuit short to ground
P1516- Intake manifold changeover valve circuit open
And the dreaded same code I've had the whole time........
P0102- Mass or volume air flow circuit low input.
I have also tried tracking down any bad wires, and testing resistance...
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