Golf IV / Jetta IV :: CEL, TC Light Never Went Off / Sprayed MAF Cleaner On Sensor
May 24, 2014
.About a week ago NC got some really bad rain and in about 5 minutes the roads were under water. I had to end up driving through about a foot of water to get home, then parked the car. On my way home from work the next morning my car barely made it home, would cut out over 2k rpms and die if i didn't push the clutch in.
I sprayed some MAF cleaner on the sensor and tried that, it now will not idle when slowing down and will shut off every-time while rolling. (Also, while it is running it idles HORRIBLY and doesn't seem like it wants to pull boost efficiently)
I unplugged the maf and it does run a little better but when i pull the full 21lbs of boost then let off of the gas it dies.
Also i scanned the CEL and it says something about the MAF, i cleared it but the TC light never went off. and the CEL came back on in minutes.
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My oil sensor light goes off under specific conditions, and it's consistent and 100% repeatable.
It's an MK4 Golf GTI 5-sp Manual, and whenever I'm slowing down and the engine is under 2000 revs, the sensor light goes off. This includes stopping, slowing going down or up hills, and really anytime the engine is lower than 2000 revs.
I've replaced the oil sensor, no dice. I don't know what else the issue might be?
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I've been having an issue with my car and the check engine light is on.
The code reads : P0030
Heated oxygen sensor - bank 1 sensor 1
heater control circuit
2001 VW GTI VR6 ....
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I have a 2002 Jetta 1.8t. My check engine light came on and it gave me the code P0135 sensor heater circuit. Bank 1 Sensor 1. We bought a new 02 sensor and replaced it. We definitely bought the right one too. Cleared the codes. After a little driving the CEL came back on with the same code P0135. What is wrong and how I can fix this?
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I recently picked up a 2000 jetta vr6 for a very good price its a glx I have owned a vr6 before and done timing chains myself on it this one is a glx , I am having 5 fault engine codes on my vagcom they are cam position sensor , knock sensor, secondary injection pump, and mass air flow it ran fine 100 miles yesterday this morning the epc came on then went off and ran bad can these codes all be related or do I have to replace each sensor individually..
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My wife called me on her way to work this morning and said her car(2.0T auto) was not running right and her engine light was on. We had it towed to the dealer and they said that the air cleaner assembly broke and was creating a false air run. The car has 33k miles and he said it was not covered under warrantee because it looks like somebody broke the part based on it being cracked in several areas. Well I haven't touched it and the last one to even open the hood on the car was them, when they had to replace the valve body 3k miles ago. How would that thing even break unless they did it? It was idling at a light, then started shaking and running poorly. I'm going back in tomorrow morning to talk to them about it, but I'm not sure what to say here...what do you think?
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So I recently found my GTI (10 months, 6000 miles) showing noticeable vibration in idle. Nothing too serious or abnormal. My reasonable guess it was caused by my recent driving pattern.
In the last couple months, I drove 99% local, short trip, low speed, plus stop-n-go traffic. Yes I knew this might be the worst condition for any car, but seriously I was extremely busy these days and didn't get chance to take it to a good run (Italian tune-up?).
So does it mean the rough idle was caused by carbon build-up or dirty fuel system? Should I add some cleaner to a tank of gas? If yes, what product would be a good one?
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I recently started to notice what sounds like a vacuum cleaner coming from the engine at start up, usually in the morning. The sound continues for about a minute or less then goes away. Haven't noticed it after repeated starts during the course of the day. Car runs fine, no CEL's.
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I need to know but I'm not near the car.
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What are the symptoms of a bad o2 sensor, 2.0.. My son is having some problems with his car hesitating when he gets into the throttle and the only codes we are getting shows bad O2 sensor pre cat.
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2000 Jetta 2.0. 140k miles. Cranked, but would not fire. Sprayed starter fluid... nothing. No spark. Checked fuel pump and fuel pump relay, all is well. I let it sit over night. I tried starting it, ran for 4 to 5 seconds shut off. Disconnected MAF sensor, it ran. Put in a new MAF sensor, back to cranking no fire. Let it sit over night, started up again. Tried to drive, stalled. Unpliged MAF sensor, now its running. Drove around parking lot. Afraid to take it out, don't want to be stranded.
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2000 jetta vr6 manual 150k miles, i have trouble starting the engine so I thought i'd start by replacing the crankshaft sensor. I notice that its wet with oil when i pull it out, and wasn't sure if tits supposed to be dry. I may have a bad ECU in the end...
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I would like to check the continuity between the sensor and the ecu. Looking for the diagram for this or know what pin # they would be on the ECU side.
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I dont see anything attached to the manifold....
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Looking at my circle track car when they told me my air intake temperature sensor was missing this is a picture online I found: [URL] ....
The hole is filled with a bolt and some epoxy. I don't see where the cable is for it. What will this do to my car? It is a track only car.
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My car doesn't start right now and a shop diagnosed it as an ecu, but I'm starting to think that is not the case. The tach doesn't move when I try to start it and pushing the gas doesn't change it, so I'm thinking it is the crankshaft position sensor. Unfortunately, down at school, I don't have access to a jack, so I was wondering if there is any way to get to the cpa without a jack? I'd rather not have it towed to another shop.
Also, my coil pack has a huge crack in it. Could that be causing my problem? And my sai has some really frayed wires and I'd rather not replace it if I don't have to because these repairs are really adding up, but could that be causing problems too? it's not causing gas mileage issues and I live in an emissions-free county, so simply not allowing me to pass emissions isn't a problem.
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2002 Jetta 2.0L...
The Haynes Manual tells you to lift the car up and un-mount the engine mount on the drivers side of the transaxil to get access to the VSS underneath the vehicle, but you can do it from the top of the engine!
1. Take out your Air filter box for easier access
2. My VSS was covered by a metallic heat pouch with snaps. (not mentioned in Haynes Manual)
3. I got Needle nose pliers to wedge in the small area to unscrew the bottom half of the VSS. It is a small area to get your hand in, but with the needle pliers was actually pretty easy.
4. Then get something small enough to release the clip for the top plug. I used my screwdriver.
5. Screw in your new VSS and plug the top cable back, then put your air filter back in place.
If you look at the pictures I took, you can see the VSS and the silver pouch I mentioned. I had a lot of trouble finding the location of the VSS with no real good pictures or explanations online. Note these pictures were taken from the drivers side, which the empty space is where the air filter was and on the right you can see the battery.
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New to the jetta (used to own Saabs so not new to issues) OK, 2003 jetta 2.0 CEL is on for the CAM Post sensor. Car is in limp mode. has been for a while before I touched the car. I have replaced the Cam post sensor, I replaced the Crank Post sensor, replaced the coil pack, replaced the water pump and the timing belt. I have searched a lot of the other threads before posting this one. Triple checked the timing (3 people did not just me) I replace all the other stuff because I had codes the water pump and the timing belt just because they were due. i had one last code P0343 so when i replaced the WP and the TB i replaced the sensor. Still in limp mode, still have the code i pulled the plug on the Cam post sensor. then i said to my self this car should NOT start. but it did start and i drove it around a little, shut it down and car started up again so I am at a complete loss.
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So my check engine light came on in my 04 jetta sw, and when I had the car read, it gave me a code that tracked down to be a bad coolant temp sensor. I bought the replacement part from my local VW dealership, installed it and the check engine light went away. Now about 2 weeks late it came back on, and I am getting a reading of "Coolant temp sensor high voltage". So it goes from needing replaced, then the replacement is running high voltage?
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Monday get CEL with codes p0722 and p0322. Car is in limp mode during these codes. Yesterday I change g68 sensor. Cleared codes, rough start but was sitting most of the week. Drove around fine, no limp mode, shifted fine. Started up a few times immediately after. Hours go by I go to leave and it won't turn over though it sounds its wants to. No clue why this is happening or what changing the sensor could have done. This is a 01 GLS 2.0 auto. Not sure where to from here especially since it drove so well afterwards.
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I replaced the knock sensor because I was getting the p0327 for the front knock sensor. Drove it again and still sputtering and CEL came back. What are other causes of this? N75 solenoid? Low fuel pressure?? It has a spectre air filter kit on it. Didn't know if this would do it. I cleaned maf. Just put new plugs in it too.
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