Golf IV / Jetta IV :: Brake Malfunction - Mushy And Non Stopping
Jul 21, 2015
I go my R32 calipers powder coated, I rebuilt the err m and got 20th rears while I was at it.
I did make a noob mistake and pressed the brake pedal to try to manually bleed my rear brakes (used a vacuum pump prior) then I remembered my front calipers were off.I might have pressed it 3-4 times.I re-bled all 4 corners, once all 4 calipers were on, and did so until I was sure there was no air.I read in a few places that our rear calipers bleed because the bleeder screw isnt at the high point, which makes sense. So Im wondering if this is what I'm experiencing or is there something, via VAGCOM, I have over looked?
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When stopping my 2004 VW GTI 1.8T at a low speed the brakes (sounds like from the front) make a strange noise from the front. The best way to describe the noise would like when you would put cardboard or the like in your bicycle tires as a child and make that whirring noise. I have checked the brake pads, rotors and the like and cannot find any evidence of grinding or anything of the sort. It only happens at low stopping speeds and not at harsher stops. There seems to be no evidence of problems stopping or anything like that, just an aggravating noise that will not go away! What it could be because I am completely lost on this topic and have checked all the basics (pads, calipers and rotors) for wear/tear and just did my brakes about 5 months ago with no noted issues at that point with everything broken down.
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I recently switched from stock rotors to a pair of SP slotted rotors. The pads are stock. I thoroughly followed the bedding process and had no problems until now. For the past 2 weeks I noticed brake shudder when stopping from highway speeds. My first reaction was that it was a warped rotor. Since it was a fairly new pair.
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05 Toyota Tacoma without traction control but has ABS. A few weeks ago I noticed the brake pedal felt mushy. I had my wife step on the brakes with the engine running. I could hear a swoosh of air coming from the rear of the engine near the firewall but more towards the passenger side. I did the following tests:
With engine off pump brake pedal and it built preassure and stayed firm.
With engine RUNNING held foot on brake and turned engine off. The brake pedal moved slowly to the floor.
Check the check valve in the brake booster and its good.
So, I replaced the Brake booster, bleed the air out of the master cylinder and bleed the brakes. Now it feels great for about the first 20min of driving but then goes soft again. and I'm still getting the swoosh of air escaping from somewhere in the same place as before.
I'm wondering if I have a vacuum leak somewhere before it goes into the brake booster? the connection is good where the vacuum hose comes from the engine to the brake booster. OR should I replaced the master cylinder?
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So I just but my golf about a month ago and have hit many problems but the most annoying is the hum I get at 3500 rpms. In my searching I feel somewhat confident this is caused by a cheap right axle replacement. I also went under and found on the left axle markings that indicate its is oem VW and I was unable to find these on the right side. anyway I have found this: [URL]....
It says it is a hollow axle right there and it is 170 less than the cheapest oem one I have found. would this workout?
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2001 F350 XL... Fitting on PS pump broke and I lost PS and PB with fluid everywhere. Replaced the hose with a new one from Autozone and I have no noticeable leaks.
I know I lost more than a quart but I could only add less than a quart (Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF). I'm also getting a whine from the steering wheel when I turn stop to stop. The power steering is back and there are no leaks (that I see) but the brake pedal is mushy. I've pumped and turned stop to stop for a while. Do I have to bleed the system like I'm doing a fluid flush? I hate to waste the synthetic fluid that I changed about two years ago.
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I have an 05 GLI and it makes noises when it's off. I don't know what it is. It's a 4 second hum then kicks off.I don't know if it's a pump of some sort or what. Today when I opened my car door for the first time of the day it did it. My **new** battery dies a lot. I've always thought that I've just left stuff on because I am a ding dong.
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I recently bought a used 2003 jetta wagon with 159k. Is it normal to feel and hear a growling sound when the air cond is running and you stop for a red light. It's a 2.0 automatic jetta wagon. I never had a 4 cylinder automatic car and this is my first VW.
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I've just about had it with this car:
- Car always had a "mushy" clutch feel. Not proper pushback against your foot feel.
- brought in several times under warranty, all was fine (documented by several dealers) from Jun- November 2015.
- Clutch then goes out at 52k, slipping in high gears. Dealer noted the pressure plate was blackened/burnt. June 2016
- I replace clutch at dealer, $1700 later. Pressure plate, slave cylinder, clutch disc, resurfaced flywheel. Pedal feel is awesome for about a month. Pedal "mush" comes back 1000 miles later. July 2016
- Take it in under the 12k warranty again, and they replace clutch master cylinder. It's about 60% better, but pedal will lose pressure occasionally and at higher altitudes (over 4000 feet) July 2016
What else haven't I replaced? And would a failed clutch master cylinder cause premature clutch wear if not replaced for months?
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Been the proud owner of a '04 Golf for a few years but it hasn't been without its share of hiccups. I recently had my battery die on me. Got the car looked at and apparently the alternator was the culprit, ie, it wasn't functioning and re-charging the battery. Swapped out the OEM for a rebuilt Bosch 120A (my car is a 2.0GL, so it's supposed to be 90a default, but I looked online and saw that I could use the 120). Even put in a new battery as the old one was past its prime. Now the new alternator (which was not fun to install) isn't working either. I had a different mechanic look at it and they said that while the auto shop gave me the right part number, that apparently VWs are hinky with aftermarket parts and I'd have to take it to a VW dealer for a diagnostic? Makes no sense as I've seen tons of people online who've used aftermarket alternators with no problem.
So now the car essentially is dead in the water. Battery light comes on when the car is started and I'm not tempted to not drive the car anywhere out of fear that the new battery will die in mid-traffic. I've checked the grounds, pulley, etc, everything looks fine and connected proper. What could be going on?
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This is my first VW. My first European car at all. I've been having what I think are battery issues, but they're weird. Every... I'd say 3rd or 4th start, I just get the clickclickclickclickclick thing. Then I jump it and it starts fine. When I don't have to jump it, it's been starting rough. When I jump it is the only time it starts smoothly. To me that screams battery.
The other day, I went to start it and it wouldn't start. But I had nothing to do that day so I went back inside and did whatever. Went out about 5 hours later, and it started just fine.
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So i just had my R32 at the stealership to get my AC recharged. Ever since ive noticed that my AC doesn't always blow cold. It will vary from cold to warm and back to cold then warm. Im not even sure what to start looking for as the issue
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This morning my AC was working just fine, air blew cold and nothing seemed wrong. But then tonight when I went out it was cold outside so I decided to turn the heat on.. That's when a problem happened. Tried turning the AC on but no air came out the vents at all. Tried all the air settings, nothing at all, even when it's on "4". The only thing that seems to work is the re-cycilation button, it lights up and I can hear it working. So to sum it up, no air coming out the vents and the AC light won't turn on when I push it in.
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So when I pull my E-brake the BRAKE light is hit or miss. Sometimes it goes on then flickers for a bit then shuts off, sometimes it stays on, and sometimes it doesn't come on at all. The owners manual says it's an electrical issue.
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Scanned my APR chipped 2001 1.8T for a CEL and found the following codes.
17608 - Boost Pressure Control Valve (N249): Mechanical Malfunction
P1200 - 35-00 - -
17536 - Fuel Trim: Bank 1 (Mult): System too Lean
P1128 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
16795 - Secondary Air Injection System: Incorrect Flow Detected
P0411 - 35-00 - -
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00943 - Heated Exterior Mirror: Driver Side (Z4)
35-00 - -
01358 - Internal Central Locking Switch: Driver Side (E150)
27-00 - Implausible Signal
I don't the think last two codes are related. I did a thorough search on Vortex and there doesn't seem to be any posts on this combo of codes, the first 3 that is. There are a few posts about the N249 and Fuel trim codes which may seem to be relate to vac leaks around the N249.
In terms of symptoms, I haven't noticed anything new. The car does seem sluggish on first and second and gear but it's been like that for months if not a year but no codes. I've had rough cold starts which has also been around for a very long time and I attributed this to the secondary air pump since the dealer found nothing wrong. The only real problem I've had for about a year is the car seems to have a global power loss at times where the entire cluster would start blink and beeping, usually after I use the power windows when the lights are on. All interior and exterior lights would also dim when this happens. Sometimes, the entire car would even shut off when I'm stopped. I've taken it to the dealer multiple times and no one has been able to figure it out. They think it's a look wire somewhere. Anyways, it comes and goes.
I do have an APR chip and it's been in for probably 8 years. So, basically no new symptoms really and all the codes are new. I've erased them and rescanned after driving and they all came back.
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So, I recently picked up mt 2000 vr6 has 200k on it runs great well taken care of. I was just driving not getting crazy or any sort of thing. it has ground in 2nd a little from when I got it. I put it in neutral then went to put it in 2nd and it went but nothing there. it will go into 2nd but won't stay and when I hold it in 2nd gear it just revs no noise or anything just sits and rolls. tried doing the reading but all I fold was 1st and 2nd I just have no 2nd.
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Upon installing LED interior lights in the dome lighting in my 2003 Jetta GL 5 Speed, my power door locks, power windows, interior lighting, and license plates lights no longer work. I looked at fuse 14 (the fuse associated with interior lighting) and it was not blown. I also tried replacing the LED lights with the lights I had removed while putting in the LEDs, and everything still does not work. Another thing to note is that during installation, the 3 lights in between the drive and passenger seats in the front worked when LEDs were inserted into them. It was not until I replaced the passenger side rear light with an LED that all of these malfunctions started to occur.
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when unlocking the car, half of the time the passenger front and back door do not open from the outside even though the little door opening/closing pin has jumped up into the open position. then i need to give the door a good push near the lock , i can hear a little click and then the door opens.
how to fix this?
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I am having problems with ALL my driver door electronics, except the fuel door. my passenger side works fine, sunroof works fine. Ive removed the door panel to look for obvious problems, like broken wires.. Fuses are good, looking for a good place to start. Power winder/locks.
Little update, i reset my battery and they worked, waited like twenty minutes, nothing works again.. why would i have to reset the battery every time for the windows to work?
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Bought a mk4 1.8 gti golf last week and day after I got it I filled it up with petrol at Tesco. Since I did that, the engine management light has been on. It hasn't affected the drive or anything so haven't done anything about it yet.
One of the guys at work plugged in his computer thing to it to find out the fault and the code was coming up as 'cooling system malfunction'. He took the fault off so the light no longer comes on but now it makes the most horrendous noise like a grinder or something when the engine is running. I have not driven it anywhere and won't until it has been looked at but just wondered what others thoughts on it might be? Could the noise be something to do with the turbo? Had new cam belt, water pump etc at about 138000/139000 miles (November 2013) and hasn't done more than 10000 since.
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So I bought an 01 GTI last week with a decent amount of things pre-modified including a Jetta front end swap? Anyway the guy I bought it from knew absolutely nothing about what had been done to the car other than the fact that there was an HID kit installed and it was set up to run high beams only.
I figured I'd remove the HID's until i drop some cash on a pair of nice projector housings. I removed them and plugged up some nice sylvania bulbs as per the OEM standard 9007, and figured I'd have no issues... They are still stuck on high beam only... What could be causing this?
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