Golf IV / Jetta IV :: Brake Fault Coming On Since Transmission Replaced But Never Before
Sep 1, 2015
I have a 2003 VW GTI VR6. Prior to replacing the transmission there was no brake problems what so ever. Since the transmission was done I get the "Stop Brake Fault" light on the cluster Intermittently. It never seems to happen when braking. I have new brakes and rotors on all 4 corners. As I said this only started happening immediately after the transmission was replaced. I did check the wear sensor on the pad to make sure it wasn't disconnected during the install. Where else should I be looking? Could it be triggered if they didn't bleed the clutch slave properly?
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Keep getting o2 fault codes. Replaced sensors came back. tried another set of sensors came back. Checked wiring for breaks no luck. Replaced ecu still no luck. So going through wiring again and checking for continuity. Looking for a list of what pins to check for voltages, and what each should be from ecu to sensor connectors. Looking for what wire is signal and how to and what voltages to check for...
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The vehicle is a 2004 Jetta MK4 1.8t.
Last thing I had replaced about 2 months ago was the Solenoid valve, the MAF and Solenoid hose. Car ran fine for about a month, and bam...engine light came back on, along with the ASR light. At first it was saying "cat converter" so I researched that, and what a surprise, it spoke about being a $1k piece to replace. NOTHING HAS BEEN CHEAP ON THIS CAR, and I'm losing my mind.
The latest adventure happened today coming back from the gym. Car started jerking (which has been normal since every now and then the ASR light will come on, which I'm told is the traction control light. Causing the car to jerk. Simple fix is pulling over, shutting the car off, and turning it back on. That always clears it, and then I'm back on the road.) but instantly it lost power. It wont shift, but the traction control light didn't come on. I plugged my OBD2 tool up, and came back with these fault codes:
P0420: Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1)
P0753: Shift Solenoid "A" Electrical
P2637: Torque Management Feedback Signal A
I'm going to go to these guys tomorrow, but I would just like to get an educated guess on what might be going on, so I don't look like a lost dog while they're figuring out what to do next. These guys seem knowledgeable, but they're missing something since I've been in and out of their shop several times and still getting my traction control light on at random times, and now all 3 of these codes.
Does that Solenoid code have anything to do with the Solenoid valve they put in? I was told that cleaning the throttle body and the cat converter might work. Would those be cheaper options to consider, and see if that works?
I also read that unplugging the alternator and plugging it back in, then cleaning the male and female with electrical cleaner might work. I was told about a month ago that my battery barely passed. Could this be causing any of my issues? I also did a log while I was driving, but all that's showing up is a google map document.
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Put new pads on by 2006 Passat tonight. Disconnected the battery removed the calipers and used a 12 volt battery to retract the pbrake then pushed back the pistons. Buttoned everything up but when I started the car had the park brake fault light and car is now in limp mode (3rd gear only with harsh engagements.
Disconnected the battery again and will let it sit.
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I replaced all the bearings and put in a rebuilt transmission and still have bearing like noise , seems like the front, directly increasing with speed . Same in neutral, no change with turning or breaking. Getting worse over the past few months.
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When I look back into the rear view the top brake light isn't a solid light, it keeps blinking but sometimes it won't blink and just have a solid light. Also, my friend pointed out to me that both of my reverse lights arenot even coming on. I suspect a loose wire somewhere. Where should I look? Or something else?
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So i just bought my 2003 passat wagone gls 1.8tand it has this "STOP" "BRAKE FAULT" coming up on the dash display and the ABS light and traction control light is on steady and the BRAKE light is flashing....a code was ran for the speed sensor and that was replaced but the light is still on....what could it be?????
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I was driving last night and all the sudden my brake light came on and then on the display it said "brake fault, STOP" and flashed twice and went off... I didn't stop driving cause it was late and my brakes seemed to work fine and i was driving very fast.
What this could be? i tried to look in my manual and couldn't seem to find anything about this exact problem.
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I am getting 20 intermittent ground fault codes and the kid I bought the car from had an alternator put in. I see a terminal closest to the front of the car on the alternator that has no thick wire attached to it and when I was at the junkyard they had wires connected to them. I cleaned all other grounds on the car that I can access so I think that could be the issue but I don't know where the wire should lead to and how the alternator should be grounded!
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This morning, I wanted to drive to work, but all of my coolant was gone. In the last couple of weeks, I had some errors with my speedometer and had it replaced a week ago, which did not fix my problem (the P0722 sometimes still came up).
Could it be that my coolant leaked over the last weeks and somehow messed with my speedometer, or are those most likely independent errors?
My car is a 2000 Jetta VR6 and at this point I don't want to put too much into it any more. If you need more input, let me know.
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I bought an 05 golf GL with a 2.0 and 5 speed in January for commuting to work.
Well, recently. I was on my way home from work, I'm an engine tech for Cummins Inc, and I notice my CEL came on and the car stalled multiple times at red lights. So I limped it home, connected my scanner and the fault was "Implausible signal from Mass Air Flow sensor". I cleared the fault code and tried to start the car. Nothing, no crank no start. Just an audible click from under the hood.
I disconnected the battery for 5 min reconnected it and it started fine. Drove it to work the next day, no issues. I tried to start it again and nothing, CEL was on again for the MAF sensor. I pop started it, car ran like hell, rough idle, low power, etc. luckily I have a dualy that I can drive in the mean time.
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Cracked my oil pan somehow on the way home. I didn't notice it at first because I didn't go out to start it till the following evening. I went out to let it warm up for 5 minutes that evening and it started perfectly fine. I went back in the house to grab a couple of things, and i could here a loud ticking so i run out side to shut the car off and just as i get to the car it dies. so i push it into the shop and of course i notice the huge splotch of oil on the gravel. It sat in the shop for close to a month, as I got busy with school, and what not, I didn't get a chance to replace the oil pan.
I finally replaced the oil pan on Friday night, there was no metal bits or shavings in the old oil pan. it wont start. everything turns on in the car just fine. It just wont start. Battery is at 12.6 v all the grounds are solid no corrosion. The car tries to start, but the starter will maybe turn over once or twice and then stop.
Is the Motor pooched or is there something I'm missing.
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This weekend I replaced the transmission in my 2000 12v vr6 5 speed golf. Got In drive around block going through each gear all seemed fine. Then I tried reverse and couldnt find it. Seem like it reverse was more like 5th cause car would try and move forward. I have the new style shifter and the bearing is quite a bit beat up. However if I in engine bay operating the gears directly on shift paddle I still can't seem to find reverse. Is there some kind of lock out or what could I be missing. I tried adjusting the cables but that seemed to make things worse not better.
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After changing my dead alternator and resulting dead battery, I am having what seems to be electrical issues with my 2.8L VR6.
Neither of my keys can unlock or lock the car remotely and when I try to start the car, all the regular lights turn on in the dash, but the engine dosn't make a sound. Inside the car there is no power apart form the gauges, no windows, no AC, no sunroof, nothing. I have checked the fuses, unplugged the battery and plugged it back in, even changed the batteries in my keys to make sure that they weren't out, and nothing works. I have also tried to reprogram both keys and neither of them unlock the doors.
I think that it might have something to do with the anti-theft system, since I didn't touch anything while changing out the alternator.
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I just replaced my radiator in my vr6 jetta. I've replaced my coolant before, with this same problem,but it never affected anything and did not find any answers. But here's the deal. It filled with about 2 gallons of mixed coolant. No noticeable air bubble sounds, coolant flows back into the reservoir. I opened my top rad hose and poured coolant in also. It is not overheating. My heater is also hot, no problems there. It just seems suspicious that my car takes so little coolant, and runs just fine. I also flushed the system with my garden hose, and let all the water drain out.
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Monday get CEL with codes p0722 and p0322. Car is in limp mode during these codes. Yesterday I change g68 sensor. Cleared codes, rough start but was sitting most of the week. Drove around fine, no limp mode, shifted fine. Started up a few times immediately after. Hours go by I go to leave and it won't turn over though it sounds its wants to. No clue why this is happening or what changing the sensor could have done. This is a 01 GLS 2.0 auto. Not sure where to from here especially since it drove so well afterwards.
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So I replaced my thermostat today... to do that I unhooked the negative terminal of the battery, removed the hose off the thermostat housing (I think that's what it's called) and disconnected the switch to the alternator as well as take off the 13mm jam nut holding the wire to the side of the alternator. I reconnected everything up, put the key into the ignition and just turned it before starting the car and the alarm started going off. I disabled the alarm from controlling the lights and horn by unplugging the electrical connector just behind the fuse panel so I could do some errands today. I then disconnected both terminals on the battery and touched them together to reset the ecu.
After reading that holding the key into the door lock until the windows roll down would reset the alarm; this weekend I'm going to hook up my driver side door lock mechanism (been a little lazy) and give that a try.
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I replaced the knock sensor because I was getting the p0327 for the front knock sensor. Drove it again and still sputtering and CEL came back. What are other causes of this? N75 solenoid? Low fuel pressure?? It has a spectre air filter kit on it. Didn't know if this would do it. I cleaned maf. Just put new plugs in it too.
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After running to operating temp, if the car is turned off then restarted (like you would at a gas station, which is where I notice this) the engine will turn and turn and turn but not fire. I have noticed that stomping on the acceleration will cough it into life during this procedure. This doesn't happen every time and I have recently run high octane gas during a long distance trip.
106K miles...
Recent p0441 fault codes and gas cap warning light...
No other problems or codes...
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My friends car suddenly quit running while he was on a trip, he went through the carwash and as he pulled out the car died. He had it towed to a shop and they charged him $400 to run a few tests and replace the fuel pump relay thinking it would fix the problem, obviously didn't or i wouldn't be typing this. At this point the car cranks but won't start.
This is what the sheet from the shop says, "retest through PCM to locate problem. Ran diagnostics per flow chart. all power, grounds and G28 engine speed spensor output to ECM test good excepting pin T121/86, wire color Lilac/yellow. Signal between camshaft position sensor to ecm. No voltage signal recommend replace PCM and RETEST."
I've put a used ecm (ecu? i've read both terms used) in and the car cranks, starts, gets to idle and dies. If i give it gas after it starts it'll rev up once, then die. I'll call it progress, but i want this damn car out of my driveway.
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I just replaced my evap box along with most everything connected to it (had some bad servos and replaced other stuff for good measure). AC works great now, but the heater still doesn't work. I've had this car 4 years and the heater has never worked. When I took the box apart, the doors were naked (no foam). Heater core looked ok, but thought it would be stupid not to replace it while I was there.
So, I was hoping this may cure my heater issue, but was really only looking to get the AC going. So, the car had been running for 30-45 minutes and while the heater was on, I went to check the heater core hoses, the pass side hose was hot, the driver's side wasn't. Driver's side goes to axillary pump and bottom of coolant reservoir. Not too long ago, I replaced the mechanical pump and t-stat along with other stuff (crack pipe, etc.). Thought I'd get everything while I had the system drained. Didn't work then, either.
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