Both my radiator fans run all the time, even if the engine is cold. Soon as I fire it up, even if it's 0 degrees, they are running. To be clear, as expected, the fans do not run if the car is off.
Based on these symptoms, what components could be the culprit?
A few days ago I was driving around. I get back in my car and when i turn it on no air blows and the radiator fans aren't working at all. My car hasn't overheated but have stopped driving until I can figure the issue out. I have since replaced the fuse box on top of the battery to no avail. I was thinking that it could possibly be the fan control module but in all the posts I am reading not one says that theirs don't work, they just keep running. So is there something else i should be looking at?
View 1 RepliesI'm having an issue with my fans on my radiator. They don't turn on when the engine gets warm and the A/C is off. I've replaced the crack pipe, water pump, and belt tensioner. I've replaced the fans not to long ago because the low speed wasn't working. I tested low speed at the fan connector and it wasn't working. After replacing fans I tested and it was working when jumping the pins on the thermo switch connector. I got both low and high speeds to work during that test. I've since replaced the thermo switch to see if it would fix the issue but the fans still won't come on without turning the A/C on. Any other tests I could do or should I just try to get another thermo switch.
View 4 RepliesI have an odd problem. My AC will not activate until the engine gets hot enough that the radiator fans turn on. Once they do, the engine RPMs drop, the clutch kicks in, and I get frosty cold air with no problems. I already replaced my FCM and checked all fuses. It worked consistently all last summer and considering the AC is nice and cold once it kicks in, I don't think this is a pressure issue and it was recharged at the beginning of last summer by a good shop.
I changed my coolant flange a few months ago, same temp sensor. Didn't try AC back then as it was cool outside still. Could this have something to do with it? I have proper readout on my dash. Maybe it's the ambient temp sensor?
2.0 Getta GL AEG 230,000 miles.
As it was such a matter of time, my fans on my 24v gave up during winter, no big deal as it was a pretty cold winter but now that spring is around the corner, I gotta fix this issue. To they change for the same OEM unit that will die in the next 30k miles.
View 3 RepliesI don't understand what is going on I noticed smoke coming from my fans radiator fans and I'm pretty sure that it was motor being fried I've gone to the junkyard and bought a used assembly hooked it up and still nothing could be a possibility that when the motor fried it fried the control module for the fans
View 1 RepliesRadiator fans making tons of noise on my newly purchased gli jetta...
View 3 RepliesI have a quick question, I got a 2005 mk4 gli, and when the cooling fans go on, only one works, the other one does not, I checked the fuse and its fine.
View 13 RepliesI have a 1.6 8v mk4 Golf, and my fans started staying on all the time. There are 2 coolant sensors on this model, one is the green one, and the other is the black one which seems to be hardwired into the thermostat housing. Anyway, I changed the green one, and that didn't solve it, so changed the whole thermostat, which obviously came with a new sensor build on....Hey, it worked, for 2 weeks, and then the fans started coming on again as soon as you turned the ignition key...and the temp needle doesn't move much, as before.
My suspicions have moved to the sensor wiring loom, that was fiddled with, while changing the thermostat...I hear they can become brittle over time, and so behave as if the sensor is unplugged, i guess.... Do these wires unplug anywhere in there so I can test the loom properly?
I have Golf MK4 1.6 16V BCB '02 and problem while engine is running on idle. Engine works at 1100 rpm (doesn't matter is it cold or warm engine) all the time.
Dashboard turns CHECK ENGINE and EPC lamps and says : "engine workshop". At the beggining of problem VAG-COM diagnostic found this error:
17953 - Throttle Valve Controller: Malfunction
P1545 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
But after I've changed my old throttle body with new one VAG-COM diagnostic haven't reported any error (no permanent error) and idle issue stays.
While engine is running and Check engine and EPC lapms are turned on diagnostic reports this error:
17961 Barometric/Manifold pressure signals: Implausible Correlation
P1553-35-10 ----Intermittent
After engine is turned off diagnostic doesn't report any error!
Beside of changing throttle body, I've changed ECM, MAP sensor, temperature sensor, EGR valve, . Also checked intake manifold and hoses if is it leaky (doesn't leak anywhere), and timing belt is ok and checked complete wiring installation!!!
Lately, I've noticed that when I start the car in the morning, the radiator fans come on at full blast, even though it's around 20 degrees F (not all the time, but most days). My temperature gauges all show (what I assume are) correct temps as it starts out cold, water first goes to 200 and stops, then oil slowly climbs and stops at 200 I believe.
They don't climb any faster or slower that I've seen, and usually by the time I get to work (around 20 minutes), the oil temp has probably climbed about 3/4 of the way to normal while the water is steady at 200.
Is this normal? I don't recall this happening, as I would've noticed as the fans are quite loud at full blast. I haven't had a chance to run a diagnostic scan yet, but the car hasn't warned me of anything either.
The two Radiator fans are always running even at start up on a cold day. I have not had time to investigate as yet but I am assuming it is the temperature sensor located near the thermostat or a relay. No CEL on. What it likely is and how to approach the trouble shooting?
View 10 RepliesAfter about 10-15 minutes, following a cold start, this 2007 BMW X3 3.0 six does the following:
1) automatic cabin fan behaves erratically, jumping back and forth between low and high speeds;
2) cabin air does not heat;
3) electric radiator fans run on high;
4) coolant temp rises to normal, but then will suddenly jump up to full hot.
At this point, driver of course pulls over and shuts off engine. The amazing part is this: the engine can be re-started IMMEDIATELY and all of the above problems vanish instantly. Radiator fans shut off, temp returns to normal, cabin fan works normally, and cabin heat comes on. I'm thinking sticking thermostat, but why does shutting off the car momentarily fix it? Change of water pressure when coolant pump stops running?
My 2003 camry LE 4 cyl cooling/radiator fans stay on all the time. As soon as I turn the ignition key both radiator fan start to spin even though the car is cold and not on. I checked all the relays and fuses. Checked the voltage on the coolant sensor harness with ignition switch on, there is no 5v or the green pin is not grounded. I am clueless where to go next.
View 14 RepliesMy independent mechanic says my radiator fan and AC fan are cycling too much. The dealer says they are not. I know it started about 6 months ago and that I get 2 miles per gallon less now. If the heat, defrost selector is in any position it happens as long as the fan control in not on off.The fans run for 5 seconds and then are off for 20 seconds. The independent says the AC has refrigerant but doesn't know what is causing it. It happens at all outside temperatures. It happens at all car temperatures. (Just started, been driving for an hour etc.)
View 15 RepliesI bought my 2001 Jetty w/2.0 only yesterday. While I was looking under the hood this morning, I noticed there was no fans running while engine was going so I took a trip to local auto parts store. O'Reilly's hooked up my Jetty and told me there was four error codes but they weren't sure what they meant. Here are the codes: P0302, P0301, P1128,and P1580. I have no clue of what these errors mean. I am not familiar with Volkswagen at all and there are no volkswagen dealerships close.
View 3 RepliesSo this seems to be a common code that is thrown when you near 100k miles, I'm at 77k .. This thread seems to be the most organized [URL] ....
"Long story short, there are 5 main reasons this problem can pop up, listed in order of likelihood, least to greatest:
1) Coolant sensor
2) Thermostat
3) Bad fans
4) Coolant mixture
5) Water pump "
My issue is that the only ones I'm (probably) able to rule out is coolant mixture and bad fans. My radiator fans do turn on from time to time, so I thought I'd ruled that out (unless it would throw a code for not turning on at appropriate times?)
I heard of a test to turn on your AC and see if they turn on, but my AC hasn't blown cold air like ever, so I don't know if that affects the test (probably not?)
A couple years ago I had a shop replace the original thermostat with the new one, or was it the coolant sensor, or both (ugh, I don't remember!) That leaves thermostat, coolant sensor, and water pump.
I guess my main question is is there anyway to find out which it is between these 3, without spending so time, money, parts etc? It doesn't seem the coolant sensor is easily accessible for one.
My car has been really slow recently but I also need to change the spark plugs, I'm doing that this week. I cleared the CEL/P2181 code and it returned a few weeks later,
I'm starting to change my mind about this car being easy to maintain/reliable, I'm always on time with maintenance and with only 77k miles on a 2004 car.
Strange question but is there a way to have the engine start up in this mode every time its started?
Just wondering for show purposes trying to make a video, as my GTI has a big ass cam and sounds evil in cold start mode and doesn't have that opportunity as its 90-100 degrees here all the damn time...
So I noticed my temp gauge was starting to rise when I was on the freeway. I figured my fans were out but I just opened my hood and both fans were spinning. When I turned the car off both fans turned off but the temp gauge was almost into the red.
In the morning I turned on my AC and only the passenger side fan was working.
So I am not really sure what my next diagnostic step should be. The engine was not radiating any heat so I am not sure that it is even actually running that hot. Could it possibly be the temperature gauge? If I got a vagcom would I be able to check the actual temperature from there?
I am also concerned on how to find out if the fans are running at both speeds at the appropriate times.
Not sure if this is related but my cruise control stopped working a few weeks ago also.
Both engine cooling fans on my 1986 Camry are running all the time; even when the engine is cold.
View 12 RepliesThe last few times I drove my car, I noticed the A/C didn't feel very cold. I checked today, and noticed that neither cooling fan comes on with the A/C on. My understanding is that both fans should be in LOW mode with the A/C on. Also, after idling for a while and even after doing some spirited driving and pulling over, the fans never turned on.
From what I'm reading, this sounds like it probably is either the fan control module or the fans themselves failed. Is the fact that both fans don't work in either high or low speed point to this being more likely to be a fan control module? Would this show up as a fault code on a VAG-Com scan?