Golf IV / Jetta IV :: Bogging Or Gargled Acceleration Occasionally
Jan 16, 2015
My car is stored outside rather than in a garage in winter. I do notice bogging or "gargled" acceleration maybe 4/10 on occasional days and sometimes the engine light will come once this happens and then other times it doesn't come on when it occurs. Engine light usually comes on rarely but when it does, it's when the bogging is really bad.
Question is what would be the most cost effective way to solve or find out what the issue is? And/ or, what would you think the underlying issue would be for starters? Also, does my year car have a MAF sensor? BTW the cabin filter and air filter were just changed a few months ago but unsure if this would include the shop cleaning the MAF if I do in fact have one.
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I have a 2001 vw jetta 2.0 and I was accelerating on the interstate the other day and the car just started bogging down and now the car only accelerates slowly at partial throttle any more and it makes a loud intake noise and bogs down also the car idles bad and even at partial throttle the car struggles to get above 3k rpm, I scan for codes and got MAF, O2 sensor before the cat and camshaft position sensor, I replaced the camshaft position sensor and car still runs like crap, what is the problem??
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To start I drive a mliv 1.8t jetta. The car has a stage II custom tune, a turbo back exhaust straight piped, and a splitter valve. The valve cover gasket, spark plugs and coil packs, rear o2 sensor (with a 42dd spacer as well) were all changed recently to try and stop my problems from reoccurring. Also the MAF sensor was cleaned too, but was not very dirty. The problem tends to cease when I delete the codes and it has to relearn the fuel mapping. When the check engine light comes back on, the problems re occur. The code thrown is catalytic converter below threshold, but i have no cats. What happens with my car is, when the car is fully warmed, the car has a rough idle, to where it sounds like a heavy duty diesel truck when idling, the car will shake from the vibrations, when i go to start moving, the car bogs down to where it feels like it will stall, but it will buck and shoot off. Also when driving the car randomly bogs down, but then will shoot off will power! Sometimes at idle when its bad, if i tap the gas, the car will back fire very loudly.
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My brother has an 03 GA GT. The car recently started bogging down on acceleration. It tops out at about 25 mph, and full throttle causes the car to stall. He was throwing a code for the egr valve, and replaced that. Then he threw a code for maf sensor, swapped it and no change. We've also changed the MAP, TPS, IAC, O2, Coolant Temp sensor; so far, no luck. I don't know much about these cars?
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My mom has a 2011 GL Hatchback about 20k km's... She decided to take my car this Saturday without telling me and I was stuck with hers.... All of a sudden the check engine comes on and at idle there is like a bogging going own. (Shaky putt-putt-putt-putt) early acceleration is lacking power and it smooths out at higher rpm's.
I can do minor things on my own like plugs and brakes, I would love to be able to get it running smooth again.
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04 Jetta GLI 1.8T... Just picked this girl up last week and I love it. Super smooth ride and shifts cleaner than any car I've driven and owned.
Originally wanted a TDI, but I couldn't resist this deal that fell in up my lap. Occasionally the EPC light comes on and goes away. Working on diagnosing it in the mean time...
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I've searched the other "screaming" problems but they don't seem to fit, they're either when starting and/or cold, or when flooring it.
My car screams occasionally after I start it. Get in, crank car, let go of key, good beat of pause, and then SCREAM! It's fairly loud. Doesn't do it every time, does it whether hot or cold. Once or twice it screamed again after I had backed up and stopped (no it's not the brakes, they do squeal but it's a different sound).
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While I'm in the engine troubleshooting the AC system, I figured I may as well get into a few other issues I've noticed.
I have a stock 1.8T and my turbo feels like it's surging occasionally. A few months ago my diverter valve started making the "blow off sound" when I shifted (manual transmission).
Is it possible for a faulty diverter valve to dump the boost overboard and cause the turbo, and engine hp, to surge? It almost feels like I let my foot off the gas for a second or two (i.e., engine power is very peaky).
A second thing that comes to mind is a clogged fuel filter. I know VW does not recommend ever changing it so it's never been done. Is this a possibility as well?
Air filter is clean, by the way. There's a K&N washable one in the stock air box and I can see daylight through it so it's not too dirty.
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The cruise worked perfect before I lowered the car and now it works occasionally.. It was on most of the 10 hour drive to this part of Florida and around town it's worked but has started to act up a bit again now.. Sometimes the cruise light will flash and then won't work but other times it's fine any input? The car is an otherwise stock AWP at 107k miles..
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So I just noticed now that my car is popping slightly at idle occasionally...It doesn't do it all the time and the idle is kinda lumpy but always holds at 800-900. Sometimes it drops a bit lower.
Also when starting it up in the morning, or when the engine is cold it doesnt rev up to 1500rpms it just starts and immediately drops to 800-900??
When I press on the gas and keep the pedal at one spot, say 2000rpms, it slowly drops down to 1500??
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Got a 2001 Jetta 2L automatic 200k miles with gremlins. possibly multiple unrelated problems. First problem that presented is that the transmission will occasionally not shift into 4th gear. I discovered that if I stop the engine, then restart it, it will again return to normal operation, hence the thought that it is electrical. After a year or so of this, second problem pops up: the engine will die while the car is driving, or some times idling at a light. I've also noticed that the interior lights flicker somewhat in intensity when on and the engine is operating, so there could definitely be a grounding issue somewhere. I have heard that the ECU/ECM connectors could become corroded, but haven't yet dug into it to look. Any guesses as to where to begin?
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MkIV 2.0 ... My 4th cylinder will occasionally misfire if I release the clutch at too high of a rev. It is intermittent but happens if I do a burn out or something. How to fix this other then stop doing burn outs and such.
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2002 1.8t Jetta Wagon with the automatic transmission. They've had it for about a week now and we've been trying to iron a few problems out. Mostly cosmetic until the last couple days.
The coil pack harness is trash. I bypassed a couple of the extreme cracked wires in attempt to keep it going until the new one comes in hopefully at the end of this week. We put new plugs in but only afterward did we find out that NGK or VW is the way to go. We put autolite iridiums in.
New fuel filter, however, the line connecting the tank to the filter will not click into place completely. We are able to start/drive the car without the line popping off from the pressure, but you just have to tug on it with your hand to get it off, no need to depress the clip.
The car seems to run better cold. Once it is warmed up and you've been driving around town for 10-15 minutes is when the shuddering starts. It ONLY dies when in Drive or Reverse while at a complete stop. The idle drops down to 400 rpm or so, you can't rev the motor/drive. Sometimes it will come back up to normal and you can go, sometimes it will go back and forth but you can't get any power to the wheels. Sometimes it will drop the RPMs and shudder at 400 for a couple seconds then just die. It always starts right up without hesitation. In park/neutral the idle is still slightly erratic, occasionally bumping up to around 1300 rpms for a second or two then back to around 900 or so.
When we bought the car, we test drove it and it was fine. Of course that is how it works out. They drove the car for about a week. In that time, it shuddered and died once, and would occasionally shudder at a stop light but there was no issue driving it or loss of power when accelerating.
What I'm wondering is if we should go ahead and order the R8 coil pack and spark plug kit from HSTuning. I'm hoping that the harness fixes the issue, but if it could be cheap spark plugs or a coil pack going out, I'd like to get it all done at once. My main concern is the possibility that it could be the transmission. The symptoms feel like loss of power, not slipping, but still, I'm worried that maybe it could be the issue.
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Got a Vr6 a couple weeks ago and recently the gauge has been acting strange. Few days ago the gauge went from normal to showing completely empty and did that for a couple days (gauge would just display normal and occasionally just drop straight to empty and sit there until restart) but yesterday it started just sitting on full. Even when restarted just goes to full. I assume its the sender unit ....
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My 2003 Jetta GLI was making a terrible grinding/knocking noise when i would turn and occasionally make this "Bong" sound especially when reversing. I took it to my local shop and they say my spring in the front left is "either broken or unattached" and that i need spings/struts. I have like 150k miles on this car so the timing is probably right. So my question is, how much should they charge for this? Also, what should i have them order and install? Im not trying to lower or anything like that, OEM or a slight upgrade is what im looking for....
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So a while ago I had no power. The car seemed to idle fine but when I would accelerate, there was no power. Being I just took this into the dealer for the same issue, could I have a bad diverter from the dealer or a possible bigger issue.
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Currently on my 1.8T I'm running a 3 inch catless downpipe into a stock res and muffler, it's great noise on acceleration but I've been told and found through research that if I want idle noise and a deeper tone I should take out the resonator, my question is what's it going to sound like on a catless downpipe with the stock muffler and no res also will there be enough back pressure to start okay and not loose any power, my last question is what's it going to be like on the highway when I'm at high Rpms for a long period is it annoying or does it sound nice ? What about cutting out the res with a 3 inch catless downpipe
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I did some Autocross today and it was fun as always, but my launches had some serious issues. I seem to bog down no matter what RPM I launch at. I did not go particularly high, but I launched from 3500 to 4500. When drag racing, I was launching around 5000. I did not think that was correct for launching for autocross, but who knows. I know that the video is not that great, but the boging is very noticeable as the car jerks up and down. It just loses momentum and RPMs drop. BTW, I have a VF Stg II, stock clutch and ESP was off. Even with the issues, my best time was near the top. [URL].................
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My 01 gti VR6 just started shaking pretty hard under acceleration on the front end. I'm guessing I snapped something or loosened something on launch. It was running fine on the way to the hardware store. Then I took off quickly because of oncoming traffic and suddenly it started shaking on the whole front end. I can feel it and see it from the wheel to the dashboard. It happens around 30 Mph. I picked up the car put it on jack stands and when the load is off the tires it doesn't seem to shake. Being that it happened so suddenly I am not leaning towards a bent rim or alignment. I don't see much wear to the dog mount underneath and the engine doesn't seem to rock much when revving or putting in gear so I'm not thinking much for broken engine mounts.
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1.8T ... Well, initially, engine light came on with a violent shake from the engine compartment. It was really really bad. I thought the engine mount just broke off or something...
First I looked at the coil packs and the spark plugs. The spark plugs were pretty old (I got the 02 Jetta 1.8T at ~140k miles for 1k, so no surprises). Spark plug on cylinder 2 was real bad, and that was the cylinder with the misfire code. Got a new set of spark plugs first. It worked a lot and the violent shuddering mostly went away.
The engine still idled erratically jumping and dipping at idle, even with the A/C off. So I replaced the coil pack on cylinder 2 after doing the coil pack switch test... After replacing the one coil pack, the engine idles like like it's new.
When I put the car in neutral and rev the engine to the redline, it revs nicely, very smooth. When I drive the car, when I accelerate reasonably slowly with the traffic, the car drives just fine. If I keep the car in lower gears and use light throttle to accelerate, it is smooth even past the rpm range where the turbo would be spooled up.
It is only when I dip into the throttle a bit more (no where near full throttle) to try to pass a car or accelerate just a bit harder, a little past ~2200rpm ish which is when the turbo starts spooling from the sound of it, it starts shuddering badly, and check engine light comes back on. The code shows misfire in cylinder 2.
My guess is there's something off with fuel system. My non-mechanic thought process is that maybe the injector is clogged and when it's light throttle, light acceleration, it injects little fuel and its ok, but when under heavier load / throttle, it tries to inject more fuel, but can't because it's clogged...
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My GF recently picked up a 1.8t (AWW) and we scanned it with vag com before she bought. We knew it had some misfires and a few other small problems so when it ran at higher RPMs we didn't think anything of it.
Fast forward to now after replacing some parts (hoses, coil packs etc...) and still the RPMs seem a little high compared to my mk4 vr6. On the streets in 4th gear, my car stays around 2200 and on the hwy its probably around 3300 in 5th gear at 75mph.
On the streets, her 1.8t seems normal but on the hwy in 5th gear, she's at nearly 4k. So my question... Do 1.8ts run at higher rpms under normal driving?
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