Golf IV / Jetta IV :: Blower Works Intermittently / Strange Odor Coming From Vents
Nov 6, 2014
Co-Worker's '03 Jetta TDI
Blower works intermittently. Sometimes all speeds will work. Sometimes only on high. Sometimes on all speeds but at a slower speed than normal. Sometimes it doesn't work on any speed.
Switch doesn't bind, blower motor doesn't make any unusual noises and I don't think it is the blower resistor. He did notice a strange odor coming from the vents the other day and, it appears that the foam on the blend door is starting to disintegrate.
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The blower fan works just fine, when i put my hand up to the vent i can barely feel air coming out, but something is blocking it. this is for all vents (floor, windshield and all four vents on dash).
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Just bought a '15 Golf TSI S/sunroof with the 5MT (night blue, for the curious). Anyway, I've been getting a strange noise that was not present on the test drives, but that I first heard driving home from the dealer about a week ago. Since then it has happened intermittently, and not reliably enough that I've brought it back to inquire about. It is hard to describe, but sounds something like a whir and whine together. Typically it starts when I am in gear -- 4th, usually, though I can't figure why that would matter -- and then take my foot off the gas. If, however, I put the clutch in or put my foot back on the gas, it won't stop right away. It does stop when the car comes to a full stop. I'm beginning to suspect that it happens more when the car and/or the day is very hot. The times I've heard it most often, it has been over 90* outside, and the car has been driven for at least about 10 minutes.
I drove around for 25 minutes this morning and it finally did it, so I hit the sound recorder on my iPad. For reference, this morning it was about 81* out.
Here's a video link to it. It occurs at the 1:13 mark, if you want to skip ahead, but it's pretty faint over the background hum. The sound is clearer on the actual recording when I play it back on my iPad. [URL]........................................
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I have a 2000 vw 2.8 v6.
I got it back in February and it ran great up until now. A couple months ago while driving home my cel started flashing and right when the light came on I could immediately feel an immense loss in power and when I got to a red light it would shake like mofo. Gettin up to speed was suddenly a huge problem and the car would make a strange noise and I could smell a strong odor of gas and slight oil. I have a valve cover gasket leak that I paid 300 bucks to replace but after a week I realized it's still leaking oil so that 300 bucks just went out the window. The sluggish performance and cel went away the next time I drove the car and it ran awesome for over a month till one day while I was on my way home from grabbing some lunch it all of a sudden started happening again. Sluggish performance, smell of gas and slight oil, wouldn't get up to speed.
I brought it to my local vw dealership to have it looked at yesterday figuring that they'd be able to tell me exactly what was going wrong. I got a call early this morning saying that the oil leak in my valve covers are causing my coil pack to short out and foul my plugs and wires and then told me it was going to cost 1,700 bucks with all the parts and labor. I'm not very mechanically inclined when it comes to vehicles so it's not like I can do the work myself but my main question is, how can the oil cause the coil pack to short out seeing that oil is not conductive and some cars actually use oil to cool the packs down. Is that a legitimate diagnosis or is the dealership mechanic Actually right or is he just getting creative trying to squeeze some money out of me.
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I purchased a used 2007 prius last month. Back then, I noticed a faint smell that reminded me of a barn, horse along those lines. I didn't smell too often because the car still smelled of whatever dealer cleaned with. Now that "fragrance" has worn off, the "horse" odor is more intense. I notice that it smells more in the back seat.
This morning I smelled the vent, and it seems to be coming from there.I heard it was the battery duct battery insulators that accumulate a sticky substance that smells.
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About 2 or so weeks ago, I picked up an .:R for a STEAL! I don't have all that much to complain about (because let's face it, it's an R32 ...) but I have noticed a few issues with it that I am hoping are related.
During one car ride I needed to charge my phone, but unfortunately the 12v port doesn't work (I checked all of the side panel fuses and even changed the whole jack, nothing). Another issue that I noticed, was that the passenger door lock intermittently works... sometimes it will work, and other times I have to unlock the door by opening it from the inside. On those freak occasions when it does work, than the driver's door lock won't work... That being irritating in itself, tonight I went to pop the hatch, and it wouldn't unlock! I had to put the key in to open it... that was the first time that I had encountered this issue...
My question is, could all of these issues be related somehow? I highly doubt that all of the lock modules are faulty.The PO did have a record about having the issue checked by the dealership, but they couldn't recreate it.
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Every morning, just as I get into my car and right before I press start engine, I have to hold my breath for a few seconds because there is odor coming from my vents. It lasts for a few seconds. 2013 RX ...
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My mom has a 1988 350 Econoline van chasis that is a motorhome class C.
The front heater/AC blower motor only works when it wants to. It starts very intermittently and then shuts off then you go down the road a little more and it comes back on, it will do the same thing sitting in the driveway just idling. There is no timing it, it just turns on when it wants to and then back off again.
I checked the fuses and the fuses are fine. The blower motor when hooked up directly to the battery blows fine. When it isnt working of course there is no juice going to the blower motor through the hotwire of the blower motor, I have checked this with my volt meter.
I did replace the switch that turns the blower on in the dahs, and it didnt do the trick.
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09 Corolla S. Odor from the vents when air / AC is on. I know about the TSB. [URL] …..
Has it been pegged to one particular problem ? Is it a clogged drain, evaporator / coil , cabin air filter, or all of the above ?
I can do the CAF and probably even the foam - out / deodorizer before hitting up the dealer. Was curious what other's course of action was.
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I am having this serious issue with my 2007 gs350 awd, whenever I'm on the highway or any were, the air is contaminated with any odor for example (skunk, garbage, smoke from old car) the smell comes in through the vents, I've changed the cabin air filter and still same problem, how to get it resolved?
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So for a few months now, my car has been making a subtle clicking noise whenever I have the ac or heat on, kind of similar to the noise spokes on a bike would make when children put a card in them. The noise increases/decreases in speed as I adjust the ac/heater speed.
Recently though, it's gotten to a point where sometimes, the blower motor would completely stop working. I can still feel heat and cold coming through the vents when I turn the AC on, but the it doesn't always blow air. I've noticed that sometimes when I hit a bump in the road, it starts working again. It works at all settings and all temperatures perfectly (when it's working that is).
How should I proceed? I don't know much about cars, but from what I've seen on the internet, it doesn't seem too difficult to replace the blower motor. I just want to be sure that the blower motor is indeed the cause, because I don't want to install a new one to be disappointed when I turn it on and still have the same issue. And winter is just around the corner so I would love to get this taken care of.
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My wife has a 06 Sonata with the Manual AC controls. The blower motor works intermittently. Sometimes it works, other times it does not. It does not matter which setting the HVAC is in. Yesterday while driving it, we went over a bump in the road and the motor started running again. Since the motor runs, I want to discount the fuse and relay.
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My 2006 F150 was purchased by me in early 2009 with about 28,000 miles on it. It's an XLT crew cab 4X4 with the 5.4. Stock except for a leveling kit and an aftermarket head unit. It currently has about 59,000 miles and has been babied since I purchased it. About 3 years ago I started noting some issues:
A. Oil pressure dummy gauge is all over the place. Some times it will show no oil pressure. Other times it is all the way to the highest mark. Other times the needle has gone 180 degrees past where normal is and is actualy pointing straight down towards the floor.
B. Recently my alternator dummy gauge has started doing the same thing as my oil pressure gauge.
C. The backlight behind my odometer works intermittently, but mostly not at all.
D. My dome light will flicker when first turned on. It doesn't matter which door is opened or if the override switch it turned on. It takes several seconds to come on and will flicker like there is a poor connection somewhere, but stays on once its on.
E. Blower fan will occasionally stop blowing. Once the climate control switch is turned to off, then back to on it resumes working. This doesn't happen often, but does occasionally.
Fortunately, the truck has not left me stranded and I want to keep it that way. We are getting ready to sale my wife's Toyota and this will become her daily driver. I want to take care of any issues before she starts driving it. Are these all separate issues or is there one common issue which could be causing them all?
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I was driving home today when I accelerated to go up a hill and started smelling something burning, pulled over and noticed my flex pipe was completely blown apart and the heat shield behind it smoking. I pulled over and got some water on it and it stopped but after I started driving again the smoke got even worse. This time it was something different than the first time. Could it be the heater core going or the foam inside the hvac system burning?
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My car had the smell of antifreeze coming from the vents, but it goes away when I use the "recirculating" button. Do u think it's the heater core? I hope not though. Also how much is the coolant suppose to be filled up too? Mine filled up a lot more then half the reservoir.
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My father in law has an 04 EX with the 5.4. It has a weird sound coming from the front passenger side. He listened to the jiffy lube kid who told him it was the brakes. I pulled one side completely apart tonight and the brakes are fine. We took it for a drive so I could hear the noise. It is coming from the passenger side up front. It is intermittent.
Doesn't matter if we hit a bump or pot hole. It sounds like a cat being run over. It will either last for a few seconds or just really quick. I crawled underneath and could not find anything loose. The first time I heard it I thought it was a shock. But the second time it was way too long to be a shock. And they are only a year old.
Secondly, it has a cat, and two mufflers..... Is this normal?
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So I had a strange vibration coming from the drivers side wheel intermittently. Only when the hubs were in Auto , by locking them it would not happen. With hubs in Auto when it occurs switching into 4H made it stop immediately.
It would occur after small bumps and sound like driving over a rumble strip. I figured it sounds like a needle bearing in the hub going wonky and just replaced the entire sealed unit. So that should be it right? Nope.....
The vibration has changed tone and sound but still occurred after a slight bump to the right Driver Side tower. It now is a much deeper tone then before.
I made sure everything was reassembled correctly and tight. I notice however that if I remove the ESOF lockouts to rule them out it still occurs (no lockout in at all ) .
I can move the outer DS stub shaft quite a bit with one finger when the lockouts are not installed. Which would explain that why when the lockouts are installed and I lock the hubs it doesn't occur as the end of the stub shaft rides in the lockout.
I haven't changed the outer axle seals , but they really didn't look shot. It appears as if the play in the axle is coming from the pumpkin.
Side note: I took apart everything and cleaned it , there was mud, crud, dirt and water throughout the hum to and into the lockouts. see pix below for the mess and carnage. I cleaned and lubed everything up.
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My 2004 camry LE (235K miles) has had a noise associated with the blower for several months. The blower worked fine on all settings but had a subtle noise that was between a purr and a click. It's constant, fast-paced, rhythmic and rises in pitch as the blower setting is changed. Hot or cold settings don't make a difference. The closest I can approximate is the sound made when kids put (or used to put) playing cards in the spokes of their bikes.
However in the last couple months the blower has stopped working intermittently. Sometimes it will come back on if I went over some railroad tracks or a hard bump. If I turn the car off the blower may not work when it's restarted. The last couple days it's stopped doing even that, and since there's snow on the ground it has become an issue! The fan setting doesn't make a difference, high or low.
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In the last few weeks the odor coming out of my AC is pretty stinky. Is there something I can check easily or does this require a dealer visit? Also in the last month I hear a strange "warbling" noise as if my car was on SUV tires. I do not work on my own car but would love to learn if it isn't too hard .
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Sunday I got in my car and noticed a distinctive odor coming from the a/c and to my surprise not cold air. The temp seems to work as well as the fan and controls.
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I own a 99 Mk4 Golf 2.0L the issue I have been experiencing for almost a year now. Is that I'm getting a fuel odor smell every time the car is either idling or moving. My check engine light is on I have also noticed after pumping fuel the car has a difficult time turning on. It eventually turns on and runs .
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