Golf IV / Jetta IV :: Belt Squealing After Replacing Water Pump And Crack Pipe
Jun 22, 2015
So I have a 2002 GTI VR6 with the 24v BDF Engine. I have been having a problem with my belt squealing. It started after I replaced my water pump and crack pipe. While I was at it I replaced the belt tensioner and belt with a kit from ECS than had an aftermarket tensioner and a Conti drive belt(has 6 ribs). When starting the car up for the first time after doing the water pump I noticed the belt was squealing. It would only squeal when I gave it some good throttle.
After a few minutes it stopped squealing so I figured it was some coolant or something on the belt. Well its been a few weeks and it continues to squeal when I give it throttle, but only if the ac is on and it will only do it for a few minutes. After a few minutes of the car running or driving down the road it doesn't squeal anymore. I did make a long drive in the rain very shortly after replacing the belt and it was a really heavy rain storm. There was a lot of water on the road and my belt was squealing pretty much the whole drive if I had the ac on. I had to alternate ac on and off so I could keep the windows defogged.
After that experience I put on a set of engine splash guards from ECS. (note these guards were the ECS branded ones and were a terrible fit. Holes didn't line up with studs on bottom of frame and ended up taking the middle belly pan section out as it would hang down way too low even with the side covers connected to it.) That seemed to keep it from squealing while driving in the rain but it still squeals after first starting the cold engine with ac on.
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I replaced a timing belt and related parts on a v 6 atq motor and three weeks later there's a pretty good oil leak, where its from or if oil leak can be related to timing belt replacement... leak seems to be in same area as crank pulley but not sure...
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I have a mkiv and before I got to work in the morning, I warm up my car for about 10 min. When I start it up the belt squeals. I do believe that it only does it in the morning. Should I have it checked out? i put belt dressing on it last night but it squealed when i started it up this morning so I don't think that worked......
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So I drove my car (2000 vw golf tdi auto) to work fine. When I started it to drive home, it squealed and then all of a sudden stopped squealing so I popped my hood and looked and the belt can fit 2 fingers under it. Is there anything I can check diagnose this? I hear it could b a tensioner pulley.
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So I was getting my car flashed to stage 1 at a dealership here in the Chicago suburbs and there was CSG R in there with the timing belt shredded. Turns out water pump came apart, shreded the timing belt, and apparently the pistons smashed the valves. I got a call from my friend whos a mechanic and said another one is getting towed there today with the same issue. Both have between 2k and 3k miles on them.
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So, I somehow ended up with a hole in my oil pan. Long story short: water pump seized which shredded the serpentine belt. Had the car towed to the dealer. They found the hole in the oil pan. Pretty sure it wasn't there prior to the tow, and unfortunately I didn't watch the driver unload the car when we got there. Both tow company and dealer have just shrugged their shoulders on it.
I let the dealer replace the water pump because it's not something I was interested in tackling with everything that needs to be moved out of the way to get to it. However, I towed the car home myself (flatbed carrier from U-haul) to do the oil pan. I just got
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2003 vr6
Belt squeal but when I have clutch pushed in no noticeable noise.Abs kicks in at low speed stops. I sprayed the belts with dressing noise went away momentarily actually sounded like it could have killed it almost. Right now I have the and fuse pulled to just get me by.
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The part that appears in the pic I have attached to this post has been making a lot of noise lately - ping, bang, knock etc... but the car has driven fine for a few months like that. but today it seized up causing the belt to smoke and make a squealing noise - I was stuck in a parking lot so I just cut the belt off and drove home - now the car runs great - it no longer makes noise and I was watching the gauges and seems like no difference at all during my 5 mile trip home.
So my question to you car pros is - how important is that part? I'm low income in a ghetto apartment so money is tight and getting money for car repairs is hard right now - I assume that part is an oil pump and don't oil pumps just circulate oil just to clean it through the filter or is there something I am missing? Can I safely run the car without that part?
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My girlfriend has a jetta and I work at a DODGE dealership in service. I recently replaced the water pump and flushed the coolant twice and replaced the coolant with G13 coolant from the local VW dealership. After I finished burping the coolant system of air bubble. After I finished I took it for a spin and being the speed demon I am, I don't hold back on the throttle. I noticed immediately the engine lagging and being extremely sluggish. I ran my shops snap on code scanner on it and I came up with cylinder 1 fuel injector open circuit. Cylinder 6 fuel injector limited power. And last but not least o2 sensor 1 open circuit. If your facing the motor I undid the left motor mount from the frame, lifted the car on a hoist and took the bottom side motor mount off of the motor. I took the cv shaft off of the transmission and lowered the car and jacked the motor up by the oil pan to expose the water pump for removal and replacement. I'm wondering if possibly the o2 sensor could cause the ECU to seize power to two of the cylinders to ensure no engine damage or if its 3 separate problems.
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My aux water pump was acting up and started leaking a year or two ago. I replaced it and it seemed to be doing fine. Recently it has started buzzing very loudly right when I turn the car off and keeps buzzing loudly for a few minutes (5-10) after the car is shut down. I know that is when it is supposed to be running, but why would it be so loud? Is it being over-heated or something?
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So my coolant system woes have continued! I recently replaced my thermostat ,thermostat housing, thermostat cover and all of the rings and gaskets. I finally stopped the leak on the driver side which seem to be the thermostat now about seven days later I am experiencing leaking on the passenger side. I walked out from work today and noticed I pool of coolant under the car. I can't tell exactly where it's coming from but it's coming from one of the components that runs off of the large belt. I snapped a few pics from the bottom of the car I don't think this is the actual component that's leaking. I think the leak is just falling off of it . I was wondering where the water pump is located.
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First off new jetta owner. I changed the thermostat. There is no heat coming into the car upper radiator hose hot lower hose is cold & seems there is no pressure. I bought the book to repair the car but it doesn't give me troubleshooting directions other than it might be the water pump or a blockage in the radiator.
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Some how my aux water pump wires got ripped out and I'm not sure if they shorted out. I pig tailed the wires on the pump and ran the car up to temp and turned car off and pump was not running. If the wires did or can short out what would I look for to replace (ie fuse, relay). Also I'm not sure which wire goes to what pin as the plug got ripped off. Wires are black red, and brown black.
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My son has a 2002 Jetta, we just changed the water pump and the thermostat. The car will sit at idle and the temperature will stay around 190. When you drive down the road the temerature will rise and when you let off teh gas the temperature goes back down. What this could be, I have tried everything I can think of to fix this car.
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I am bringing in my V6 2005 Camry XLE in for a pulley recall and have reached 90,000 miles. The dealer told me I should also have the timing belt, water pump and engine seals replaced since they are all under the same engine side cover. I am considering the timing belt, but do I need to replace the oil seals and water pump?
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2005 Camry XLE with 4 cylinder. Is it a good idea to change engine oil after replacing the water pump? Another words, is there a chance of getting antifreeze or debris in the engine oil when changing the pump or are the 2 separate in the 4 cyl. engine?
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I have a 2.0l Jetta that has been giving me problems for about a year now.
First, the car started dying out on me after long trips at en excessive rate where it would shut off and have trouble starting multiple times consistently. So I got the fuel lines cleaned, a new fuel filter, the fuel pump checked, and did a basic tune up by changing the sparks and oil.
Still the same problem. after some troubleshooting i gave up and decided to take it to the stealer dealer. after a $130 diagnostic fee and a $300 repair fee they told me that they had fixed it by replacing a speed sensor in the transmission. the car was noticeably running better and did not stall during the short driving i did. I am a student so not much driving was done initially. A couple of months later i took a ~150 mile trip and upon stopping at a red light and trying to go once the light turned green the car stalled.
I took it back to the dealer that told me they would check if the speed sensor was faulty. it was not and they could not refund me my money. i paid for another diagnostic for another $130 and this time they said it was a bad coil pack, a $400 repair fee that i was not going to pay. i went out and got myself a coil pack and installed it myself. still the same problem.
I met a guy that worked for the dealer and had the same tech as the dealers so i took the car to him. he had it for 2 days and drove it for over 80 miles to test run it. he could no replicate the problem and just charged me 80 dollars just for his time.
I decided to take matters into my own hands and I read on these forums a couple of common solutions to the problem such as changing cam,crank,speed sensors etc etc and i started out with the crank..then speed...etc etc.
2 days ago my water pump had been leaking and i believe the antifreeze caused the timing belt to slip about 3 teeth in the middle of driving. luckily no bent valves or any damage to the engine but i did have the push the car about half a mile. After a 5 hour job i replaced the pump and the timing belt along with the cam sensor. I drove it around 70 miles and everything seemed fine. just yesterday i drove around 120 miles and the car had a small stall about 50 miles in when i was at a red light. The rest of the trip it ran fine. As i got to my apartments I decided to see if i could replicate the stall since the engine was hot. I stopped and waited around 10 seconds and then stepped on the gas, the car did almost stall but it stayed on since i let go of the gas. I tried it again and it would no longer do it.
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The gist is that my 2006 Prius would not start, even with an attempted jump, and now the dealer (Keany Mesa Toyota in San Diego) says the total cost of repair will be $2400 for a new junction box relay and water pump ($800/$2400). I am stunned at the cost and am questioning the need for both jbr and wp -- but apparently, wp is leaking. About a year ago, the expensive battery was replaced, luckily under warranty , so no cost. Don't know if jbr, wp and battery failures are related, typical repairs or we just have a lemon or getting ripped off. is the water pump recall from years ago relevant here? Should we get a competing bid from a non-dealer/Prius expert (is there one in SD, a search of Prius chat found 1 recommendation but it was rather weak), or just get the damn work done and have a stiff drink to deal with it, or maybe it is time to get a new car - Prius or other (what's the chance the dealer give us a good trade-in deal?)
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I bought an '04 Powerstroke from a dealer in Dallas. Problems started to crop up immediately, so I replaced the thermostat. This seemed to handle my cooling issues for a couple days, until when preparing to drive to Austin, I noticed coolant pouring from what appeared to be the location of the water pump. I turned around and drove the two blocks back home, and replaced the water pump. However, when i went to restart the truck, I got only a partial turn of the crank. I let off immediately and waited a couple seconds, then tried again; same result.
I haven't had the glow plugs out yet to see what type of fluid is causing the lock. I was so pissed last night that I just went and took a nap, but I intend to check it out today after work. If it's fuel, excellent. I'll replace an injector and be done with it. If it's coolant, however, what are my most likely culprits? The EGR and oil coolers are stock, so maybe them. I would consider head gaskets, but that seems a little unlikely; while it was still running, there was no smoking, no notable pressurizing of the coolant system, etc. I am as of yet too unfamiliar with the underpinnings of the 6.0 to come up with any other possibilities, but I'm more than capable of dealing with them if you guys can suggest anything.
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So after saying "We don't work on that model" when I asked for a timing belt / water pump change (yup, they actually said that), I went in today to try and get a second key made since the guy I bought the Phaeton from only had 1. I do not have the little code. I was told that there was nothing they could do without the code. My only hope would be to contact EVE directly.
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I am having a really tough month with finances, and life in general... and now my car's engine has died on me. I drive a Mazda Protege 2000 ES with 197,000 miles on it.
The problem started with the water pump failing; I decided not to drive the car that much, if at all until I could get it fixed. I always kept an eye for the water and the temp gauge, and I thought it could last a couple of short trips at least. Well today was my appointment with the mechanic, and the belt broke off... The water pump went all lose, and I suddenly felt the steering was starting to fail too. So I decided to pull over... before even reaching the side of the road, the battery indicator was lit, then all the other lights came in, and fumes were coming out from the front.
In the shop my mechanic tried starting the car and said that the compression was lost and that the engine was dead. I actually don't want to see the car go... And everyone think it is stupid, but what I am thinking is... All I can afford right now is another $2000 car, which will mean that I might need to fix a bunch of stuff again anyways. So why not just replace the engine? The engine is what basically makes a car... a car. The rest of the car seems fine, and I never thought it would die all suddenly .
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