I replaced all the bearings and put in a rebuilt transmission and still have bearing like noise , seems like the front, directly increasing with speed . Same in neutral, no change with turning or breaking. Getting worse over the past few months.
View 1 RepliesWondering how I would take the A/C pulley off to change the bearing or fix the chirp squeal it is making.
I have spun this pulley by hand and it is the culprit making the noise.
It has an inner pulley and an outer pulley(belt pulley). Both spin freely and are not bound up. Just want the terrible noise to go away.
so lately I've been noticing a slight rattling/knocking noise coming from my car while it is in neutral and the clutch is not pushed it. When I push the clutch in, the noise goes away. I've read that this could be a sign of a bad throw out bearing? Is this right? If it is the throw out bearing, how long can I expect until it completely craps out on me? It seems to only do it on cold starts and sometimes on the uneven ground. I figured I should start saving some money to have this done because I'm not comfortable doing it myself.
Some other questions I had is my car is a 24v VR6 and it has 144k original miles. The timing chains and guides have not been replaced (to my knowledge at least). I know that replacing the throwout bearing requires removal of the transmission and so does doing the lower timing chain. If I get my throw out bearing replaced, should I have them do the chains also since they are already in there? I have no noise coming from my chains at all so there are no signs that they are going bad. Also, should I have my clutch replaced while they are in there? Again, no signs of a bad clutch either.
I have a '10 manual trans gti. Only 16k miles on it. When starting cold and on an incline/decline at a certain level of clutch play, the transmission emits an odd chirping/whirring noise. Aside from the noise, the transmission is butter.
I brought in into the shop to get inspected and was able to replicate the noise for the technician. His thought was a bad throwout bearing.
Here's where it gets interesting. They quoted me about $600 labor just to confirm the issue. Should it be the throwout bearing, the replacement would be covered under warranty. labor would also be included. However, if they found it to be a wear product it would obviously be on me and stupid expensive.
Some people also thought maybe the clutch plate fingers are slipping? (I don't know that much about cars..)
So just to sum it up. Past few days I had been hearing a grinding/clicking noise from my left front tire. I had an accident on that side a few months back. Went to the mechanic and they said it is most probably the wheel bearing and possible the hub also.
They took it apart and changed the wheel bearing. After two days of getting the wheel bearing changed the noise is back. It is not nearly as loud but it is definitely there.
What it could be? Could it be the hub itself? I have a 07 Sonata with 100k+ miles on it
I had the front right wheel bearing replaced on my Toyota Corolla (60,000 miles) replaced a couple days ago. One day after the repair, I heard a high pitched clicking noise which was noticeable around 20-30 mph. Yesterday, I still noticed the high-pitched sound but also a grinding/popping sound in front left side when coming to a stop upon every rotation of the tire. Took the car back to the shop to let them listen to the noise, but really weren't very compliant since it doesn't sound like a wheel bearing problem.
Here is YouTube link to noise car is making : [URL] .....
I have a 2001 f250 v-10 4wd with 117,000 miles. I just replaced drivers side front hub bearing assy and not sure if it's the new bearing or what but now I keep hearing this crazy noise from suspension area. It has had bangs and pops for a while now. It almost sounds like abs motor going off but louder. Does it going slow fast or whatever. Brakes on or off. Trucks ball joints were done about two months ago and new shocks, trac bar replaced this summer only thing not done was tie rod ends and all bushings. Brakes are good new rotors and pads this summer also. It's like taking two inflated balloons and rub them together real fast. It may be the timken bearing maybe bad from get go.
View 14 RepliesI found out that the bearing in the compressor clutch is the one making my car sound like crap... but I have been looking for it and everywhere I call they only sell the whole compressor that is expensive. I was thinking on get the clutch out and lube the bearing up or something but I don't know if I have to discharge the freon for doing it ... How to remove the AC clutch ?? Its an mk4 btw....
View 4 Replies2005 Jetta. My passenger side door emits the most high pitched, eye-gougingly disturbing noise when opening. I don't have any wd40 handy, would it be okay to just spread dome Mag1 wheel bearing grease over the hinge? Might be a stupid question, but that won't damage anything right?
View 3 RepliesNot sure where to even start this but ill try to keep in concise. 03 gli 24v 6 speed. 125500 miles. At about 123500, i start noticing this slightly growly bearing sound at idle, without the clutch pedal pressed. When you press the clutch pedal, it goes away. Waited a bit, and at 125k, i replaced the clutch, flywheel, and throwout bearing, thinking it was a bad throwout bearing. It wasnt that.
Next, after more research, it seemed the 02m 6 speeds have had some issue with input shaft bearings wearing out making similar noises. So, pull the trans back out, and send it to APTuning in PA. Have new input shaft bearings, upper and lower pinion shaft bearings, and diff bearings put in. Even though they said they saw no major wear to be worried about in any of them. And here we are, left with the same noise.
One of the guys at APTuning said they had a case with one car where the thrust bearings wore so bad it made for a similar condition. Where the car would make unpleasant noise without the pedal pressed, and would go away when a load was put on it with the pedal. SO, i guess what im asking is, is there validity to that? What are the chances my otherwise seemingly fine 24v has this issue and end play is so bad that is causing this noise?
The noise gets NOTICEABLY louder when the car is hot. Its almost silent on cold starts. But after 15 miles or so it can be heard almost voice level with the windows down when you're stopped and idling; it really hurts to drive it being a caring owner hearing it. The motor is still in the car with all accessories so i can't check the end play scientifically. But to be fair, if this is plausible, and is the issue, i dont think it'd take precision to tell.
I'm so deep into this, and thought I've ruled out everything yet the noise persists. Really at a loss..
Listen around :30 where I start to cycle the clutch pedal. When I press it, you hear the main shaft "spin down" and the noise go away. When I release the pedal again, you here the clunk and the noise again. Its also been sitting for 3 hours. Good bit louder when hot [URL] .....
I have an 02 Jetta with the 2.0 that I have been trying to resurrect. We've owned it from new and it's been a great commuting car but it was in desperate need for some TLC. The car has been very reliable for 250k-km and I want to make it last at least another 3 years. So, rather than sell the car for nothing - I've decided to invest some time in swapping parts in from a scrapped GLI w/24v VR6 (with ~130k km) that I picked up for $500. I figure that I'll never feel the pain of depreciation by just never selling the car!
I've already used the GLI to do some cosmetic upgrades (goodbye foggy head lights), replaced a rusted fender and a rock battered hood, a broken side view mirror - as well as do a full leather interior swap. The engine is destined for my Eurovan -- which has left me wondering what other parts I could use off the car before sending it to the wrecker.
So basically -- my 2.0 needs a wheel bearing and the stock suspension has been creaking and noisy for a long time. I see that the brakes and wheel bearing housings are different between 2.0 and VR6 -- but I'm thinking of swapping it all over at once and want to know if this is plausible. The brakes are definitely bigger (FN3 style) with nice factory painted calipers and just in better condition overall -- so I know I need the wheel bearing housing. So- is it possible to swap the entire strut out with the wheel bearing housing and all still attached? Seems this might be less work and faster than actually swapping out the just the wheel bearings.
Will the axles from the 2.0 still work?
I have a 94 Explorer. I recently swapped over from auto to manual hubs. I followed a detailed write-up that I found online. During the process I repacked my outer wheel bearings. Ever since then I hear a grinding noise coming from the front wheels. Sounds like the bearings aren't seated properly. The guide that I followed instructed to torque the spindle nut that sits next the the outer wheel bearing really tight in order to seat the bearing, then loosen it back up and hand tighten it. But when I loosened the spindle nut the wheel bearing would pop back out. What is the best way to get a wheel bearing to stay seated properly?
View 2 RepliesOur Prius is a second generation from 2006. Over the weekend the right front hub bearing was replaced. This was their diagnosis after we reported hearing "humming" noise from the front side of the car. They did a test drive around the block and they said that this was the problem. True enough, the noise went away after they have done the procedure. Unfortunately, the ! ABS VSC lights are now constantly on. I noticed this when I drove the car going home (about a mile away). I reset the jumper pins 4 and 13 on the DLC together with pumping the brake pedals.
This immediately solved the problem with the lights. They were off now and everything was back to normal. I then did a test drive, and lo and behold, when I hit on the brakes, no matter how soft, the car jerks as if the ABS was engaging. This happened twice before the ! ABS and VSC lights again went off. As soon as the error lights went back on, braking became normal once more - no more jerky and intermittent braking.
I then drove home and did the jumper procedure again to make sure that the first attempt wasn't just a fluke. I had the same experience as before, car braking became intermittent and jerky. The ! ABS and VSC lights again turned on - and right after, braking became normal.
So after doing wheel bearings in the car. both front and back. I'm still getting the "wheel-bearing hum" sound if you will. Don't know how this can be possible with all brand new wheel bearings and hub in the front passenger side. other hubs were fine. I do need tires which will be ordered soon/ alignment im sure.
View 5 RepliesI think it is cv joint not sure. [URL] .....
View 2 RepliesHave a whirring/wheel bearing metallic rubbing noise at 70-80 mph, 6th gear (manual transmission). It's hard to pinpoint the location but it's from the engine area! I heard about water pump failures but thought I'd hear that all the time not just at speed... MKVI GTI ...
View 15 RepliesThis thread is about suspension though. Ever since installing my B&G coils my car has been making all kinds of funny noises. Originally I realized that the the top nuts for my struts were not nearly tight enough... which led to one of my struts having about 6 or 7 threads completely stripped from rubbing against the mount and not being tight. Completely disassembled the front shocks, made sure everything was kosher, and filled the passenger side with some washers before tightening everything down like a mofo (by hand, no air!) a few weeks ago. All was good.
Now, flash forward to now and it rattles all the time. Driving straight is usually when it makes noise. I immediately assumed it was loose top bolts as I had the same noise previously. I went down to buy some loctite and more tools so I could do the fix myself. Upon inspection, the bolts are still tight as hell. Tightening them rotates the spring, I can feel feel it pop if I rotate my ratchet far enough as the spring finally gives from rotation.
I checked the sway bars, axels, etc.... and nothing. I even went so far as to wrap everything down there in blue masking tape, put the wheel back on, drove around a while (made the noise like 20 times) and then jacked the car up to look again... not a single scratch on the tape. Some of it was still not even 100% pressed down. So my axels, sway bar, etc... have nothing to do with this (at least rubbing wise).
After doing all kinds of research both here and in the MKV forum, I've decided that this is probably due to foobar strut bearings. I ordered some SKF ones from DBC and hope that they come soon... but until then I am still uneasy (duh, this car is my life) and can't stop obsessively thinking about it. Now I am beginning to doubt that it is the strut bearings because most people seem to only have the noise issue when turning their wheels. I have the noise issue all of the time, except when I am driving on the freeway.
Changing wheel bearing on mk4. makes noise when i turn to the right. what side is bad? i like working on my own car but this might be out of my hands.
View 12 RepliesSo my front right Wheel bearing is making noise and its a used Knuckle so its w/e. Guess ill use tonight to do all my bushings and fluids n stuff.
View 6 RepliesI have a 2003 Buick Lesabre Custom, 146K miles on it
1st problem was that the passenger front wheel bearing went bad, I replaced it with a new bearing from Napa(cheaper one) drove it 1 day everything seemed fine, next day it was raining, and Traction control and abs light came on and continues to do so almost everytime I run the car. My Mechanic friend said this was a defective wheel sensor and that i should get a new one, I do not know if I should get the better one, every time I've ever changed the wheel hubs I have had this problem except when I use the more expensive hubs. Maybe I answered my own question on this one!!
Today when my wife was driving the car, the Service engine Soon light lit and it started bucking and shuddering going uphill, and it threw a code that said that TCC was stuck etc. I had been running the failing hub for a few weeks prior to this with no problems but when I changed this the other day, I started having problems.
I have a Mk6 GTI 2010 and recently there has been some noise coming from the rear of the car and the noise changes with speed and sounds similar to a wheel bearing.. So I jacked up the rear and found that there was play in the passenger rear wheel.. The bolt holding the hub together was tight..
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