Golf IV / Jetta IV :: Battery Dying Repeatedly - Comfort Control Module Failure?
May 1, 2014
Battery kept dying. Had the battery tested. Bench tested as OK but kept dying. Replaced the battery with a new OEM. In a week, that battery was dying too. Alternator was putting out 13V but would dip down to 11V. Also did a parasitic current draw test. Car is only drawing 20mA at rest. Replaced the alternator with brand new. New alternator putting out 14.4V. Battery keeps dying. Still no parasitic current draw.
I did two things right around the same time I started having the issue. I put in a new head unit. I already had an aftermarket head unit and I simply upgraded. I know this isn't the issue because I ripped the thing out completely, including wiring harness, and I still kept having a problem. The other change I made was going from a MFSW to a 3-spoke. I removed the MFSW relay and switched the pins in the column so that the horn and airbag work properly. I tried the cruise control and it doesn't work. When I try to turn on the cruise control, it blows the horn fuse. Replaced the horn fuse and I just don't use the cruise.
What I'm wondering is if I messed up the CCM when I did the steering wheel swap. I've read that bad CCMs can kill batteries. I'm not having the typical faulty CCM issues. The only issues, besides the battery dying, are that the unlock on the keyfob will stop working at random, and the "door ajar" light on my dash flickers at random.
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We began to get an intermittent cruise control failure (big exclamation point in the lower left of the MFD and no green "cruise" when the lever was clicked to "on") in my wife's 2007 2.0T Passat several months ago. During the same period she told me that the car occasionally didn't want to crank...although it always started on a second try. Well, to make a long story short, I had the battery replaced at the 60K service a couple weeks ago and the cruise has worked flawlessly ever since.
I put two and two together just before I took it in for service when the car showed failure of the antiskid system in addition to the cruise following a particularly difficult start. Sure enough, the new battery fixed it. Apparently some of the accessory systems go into a failure mode when they don't get enough current on startup.
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Need to check and not sure where it is!
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How to recode in gateway park assist because someone in the service I thought didin;t mark this option and now I didn't have got pdc in my car even though that I have physically this module in my car and formerly it was working. And another question is : Is it possible to close a windows and sunroof from the key remote control for example when I close my car I want that all windows will close automatic when I press the unlock button on key....
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Trying to figure out whether to fix or scrap our 2005 Prius with 193,000 miles and a mysterious 12V battery problem. What would you do in my situation?
We've had a recurring problem with the 12V accessory battery: I have replaced it myself three times. The last failure was the most mysterious, because after replacing the 12V battery for the third time, I conducted nearly daily voltage tests using the Prius' "secret" vehicle signal check. Voltage coming off of the 12V was normal, if not high the entire time in all of the Prius's various starting and ready modes. I wired up a solar panel to trickle-charge the 12V battery when we weren't around, and we plugged the 12V in at night to a trickle charger to keep the battery topped up.
Nonetheless the day came a few months after the latest replacement when we had our usual 12V failure symptoms: the time on the clock started resetting, the car didn't turn on on the first press, the Prius computer rebooted, and eventually the car wouldn't start without a jump start. This has been super-frustrating, and googling around, I haven't been impressed by people's reported experiences trying to have the dealer try to resolve such problems. My worry is that a dealer repair person will change the accessory 12V battery without fixing the underlying problem. I would suspect a parasitic draw somewhere, but voltage tests when the car was overnighted without any kind of charging did not suggest a serious voltage draw on the 12V battery.
Other details about the car: our keyless entry hasn't worked for several years (dead batteries in the key fob?) and we open the car manually using the key each time. We stick the fob in the slot each time we want to start it. MPG is comparatively low vs. other Priuses, perhaps 44-45 MPG, and lower when the 12V battery starts to die (37-40). I have had the car serviced (oil, etc.) like clockwork every three months; recently, I've noticed the engine is starting to burn oil a bit (level is reported low on each change).
Most of the driving has been done in the flats and the heat of California's Central Valley, and we've put something like 120,000 miles on it just in the last five years. Besides the fact that the 12V battery keeps dying, the car has been very reliable.
We just inherited a free Prius with just 60,000 miles on it, and I have a 1993 Camry with 150k miles on the chassis and maybe 60k miles on the replacement engine I had dropped into it a few years ago. The Camry just passed California's smog test and seems to be running well. We don't want or need three cars.
Our choice is to try to fix the Prius with 193k miles on it and donate the Camry (which gets about 20 miles to the gallon, the horror...), or keep the Camry and donate the Prius. My instinct is to not drop thousands of dollars into the high-mileage Prius, especially if these issues might be pointing to a dying main battery.
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How to fix SES P0670?? I understand there's a whole procedure on checking fault.
P0670:GPCM Glow plug control module control line failure. Open/grounded circuit, open/shorted GPCM, failed PCM
But how did you resolve problem? replaced GPCM, found open circuit, short --if so where?-- or replaced with updated harness.
(4C3Z-12B568-AA connector upgrade kit as in picture)???
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In 13 months my 1991 Dodge Grand Caravan has managed to kill 4 transmission control modules -- the original plus three factory replacements. The first replacement (by a Dodge garage) failed within weeks, after which they threw up their hands in despair (never recognizing the defective part) and sent me to an electrical specialist. The specialist's first replacement survived until April; their 2nd has just died. I find it hard to accept that all of these TCMs were simply defective.
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The MRS Control Module (that makes the airbags function) on my 2001 Mini CooperS (with only 66,000 miles on it) has failed and going to get it repaired. The dealer said it is really rare for the MRS to fail...
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I have been posting about P3125 fault which is inhibiting ICE from starting. During this time I have been charging and also testing the traction battery so that I could continue to investigate the P3125 problem.
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My battery want stay charged in my Mercury. I want to know if the light control module could cause it to drain....
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I've been having several issues with my 06 Jetta. First, it began by the car dying out of battery, and than i figured out that during the night the break lightswitch would turn on. I would be able to turn them off by getting in and pressing the breaks but they turn on a while after. Now, today I purchased a stoplight switch to replace the old one however, when I recharged my battery before installing the piece the car died a few minutes later, but when the car was off there was a strange clicking sound under the steering wheel it kept clicking for about 10 minutes before it finally stopped. What could be a possible issue or issues that are going on?
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So I bought a 2004 Jetta with the 2.0 engine yesterday. I got the car pretty cheap and was told that the issue with the A/C was because it was low on freon. I've never owned a Volkswagen before, but I assume A/C units are all similar. So I go to put in some freon into the low end of unit. I get about half of a 12 oz can or so in and I hear a loud Psst or shooting of the propellant. I look down and it looks like the the side of the compressor shot the oil filter with the coolant. I'm not sure if I sprung a leak of if it was just a valve that releases when there is too much pressure. I've only driven it for about 10-20 mins since and I can still occasionally hear the Psst sound. It is 96 degrees in my area if that makes a difference or not?
Some other information, I noticed that the compressor kicks on, but only for like a second or two and then it shuts off for about 15 seconds or so and then repeats itself. What could be wrong?
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I have a 2004 Ford Escape that seems to have developed an appetite for one of its O2 sensors, about 1 a month for the past 3 months. Specifically Bank 1 Sensor 2. That is this the downstream sensor for cylinders closest to the firewall. I have replaced the sensor twice and the last sensor just popped the code to let me know it's passed on. The code is P0136 is the code that has popped every time. The live data shows a flat 0.0 off of the sensor.
So before I replace another sensor, what would cause the same sensor to die 3 times in a 3 month time period?
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My car battery keeps draining when my car is off, lights off, everything is off....... the only thing that ive figured out is that if i pull the fuse to my radio, it wont die, but sometimes if i dont pull the fuse it still wont die......
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Need coding info for 2010 Jetta sedan 2.5 Air bag control module. The part # is 1K0 909 605 AD/004, Component # Airbag VW8R 036 8900. I am using a Vag-Com version 10.6 ....
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I have a mk4 jetta 2.0l with about 130,000 miles. The issue with my car is that is has a rough idle and dies out completely when I put the car in neutral. I currently have codes 16839- EVAP system leak detected, 16487- Mass air flow sensor, 17978 - Engine start blocked by immobilizer, and 16795 - secondary air injection system incorrect flow detected. The secondary air pump was taken off the car before i bought it, so i do not think that code is responsible. Also all of my spark plugs and wires are new. I think the issue is either with my maf sensor or with a vacuum line. I have tried cleaner my maf and also unplugging it, and the car still has problem. Unfortunately i do not know where all of my vacuum line are. I have only checked the two the go into the sensor on towards the firewall. The one has vacuum, but the one coming for the egr valve did have any vaccum even when i tried with my other line on it. Im not sure if this is the issue, and if it would cause my car to die.
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I'm getting used to just expecting a problem with this car every 3 months or so. Anyway, I have a 2004 1.8T GLI which lately has been idling and then stutters and dies. The first time it happened it turned right back over and started driving. So I drove it home and cleaned up the battery terminals and it didn't seem to have a problem since. Now about a month later I was just parked and turned it over.
It was on for about 1 second and then it stuttered and died. I can hear the starter engaging and turning the engine, but it won't turn over. I also checked the battery levels and its showing 12v so I don't think it's electrical? From scanning forums here it seems like the two prime suspects are spark plugs or the fuel pump?
Also checked the fuses and none are burnt. I could see it being the fuel pump because that would explain it randomly stuttering and dying. Also the car is at 149k miles and that is the original pump. Wondering if maybe it being at 1/4 tank isn't working either? Going out to buy a vagcom and see what codes it throws!
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Installed a used comp controller and now vag-com is giving me the a code:
1 Fault Found
01315 - Transmission Control Module
004 - No Signal/Communication
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 01100100
Fault Priority: 4
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset Counter: 138
Mileage: 69085 km
Time Indication: 0
I have taken it off and put it back on, I have cleared that code and re-scanned and still receive it. Have not driven car to see what it feels like as of yet.
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The code the R threw was p0606 which is the Powertrain/ Engine control module? Where these components are in my R? Or how I can go about trouble shooting this problem?
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This is on a 2001 golf, 5 speed, ALH.
Just went for a drive the other day and the ABS light started to flicker on, and then it was accompanied by 3 loud beeps, which I understand is the ABS warning.
Then the gauges all died like I turned the car off, but the engine was still running. No limp mode, no stumbling, nothing.
The needles then bounce back to where they should be, and various lights on the dash flicker, oil pressure, battery, etc. Not any pattern to them, they all just kind of blink on and off randomly. Then it will stop and run fine for 20-30 minutes (longest I have driven it like this)
Sometimes when I put the key in the on position before starting it, the gauges will do the same thing, without the beeping, and it is like I am cylcing the key on and off several times, needles on the fuel and temp gauge bounce between zero and their actual reading (other gauges don't move because I'm at zero rpm and zero mph)
I have replaced fuses 11 and 15, checked battery voltage with the car off, idling and at 2000 rpm, 12.3 volts with the car off, 14.3 with it idling and at 2000 rpm
The cheap code reader at the parts store gave me a P1650 code, which is intermittent communication error on canbus (paraphrasing) which makes sense for the symptoms, but I know on these cars sometimes a totally different system in the car can interfere elsewhere.
I am going to check/clean grounds, what else should I be looking for?
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Getting this code. 01309 - Power Steering Control Module (J500) on my 2012 GTI. Does the module need to be reset or does it need to be replaced?
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