Two control arms and a passenger side cv axle I get a bad engine vibration @3800 rpm. Feels like solid motor mounts. It goes away @4500 rpm.
The old cv axle was making noise from the inner joint and the control arm bushings were broken apart.
The engine vibration was not there with the old parts.
When I'm idling and I rev the engine to exactly 1200 rpm i can feel an extra vibration coming from the engine. If i hold it at this rpm it will continue on. now this is not a violent vibration but more so of a buzz i can feel that travels to my steering wheel as well. what could it be ?
Another question is when i travel up my driveway and i hit the sloped curb at a angle i can hear a specific "clunk" sound coming from around the drivers foot well area what could this be? perhaps my axle going bad? I also heard it when I was reversing out of my parking space while turning.
I am new to this car and trying to make sure I'm doing everything i can to put it into good shape.
I lamented in the past a lot of vibrations when the engine was at 3500RPM (in any gear). I read on the forums and many people blamed the aftermarket "EMPI" axles that I mounted too. In fact, my OEM outer CV joints where seized inside the hub/spindle and one of the inner CV joints was clicking; the boots were all worn. This was the reason I went with aftermarket axles. Anyway, I rebuilt the OEM axles by keeping the shaft only, and getting good quality inner and outer CV joints. I finished today to swap back the OEM axles and, finally, no more vibrations!
View 10 RepliesThe following occurs: When car is in PARK there is no strange vibration even with AC on.
When DRIVE is engaged, vibration begins, even worse with AC on. Once the car accelerates vibration is gone.
I went to the authorized dealer service shop and they told me that this symptom is typical of these cars, they even sat me in some other cars to prove that these vibrations are normal.....
I have a 2000 Jetta with the 2.0 automatic and just like the title states, I have recently developed a engine vibration that is felt at all times. It is much worse when the car is in gear. I only seem to feel it in the gas and brake pedals. It does not seem to depend on speed nor does it only occur at certain rpms. It feels like someone zip tied a vibrating back messager to my pedals. I want to find out what it is because on long commutes my foot begins to feel like its falling asleep. I can visually see the engine vibrating with the car in gear. I am leaning towards motor mounts.
View 1 RepliesI am hearing a vibrating sound only between 2000 - 2500 rpm while accelerating from inside/under engine bay. No impact on ride quality and no engine harshness is felt. Only it sounds like some metal sheet is vibrating for a while. After crossing 2500 rpm it simply disappears.
Checked inside the engine compartment by revving the engine while stationery and I don't get that sound. What could it be? Some shield of the exhaust? cat?
So I replaced the engine and trans engine mounts on my 2004 R32 today. After I got done and drove it there was some serious vibration and gear whine. It also seemed like I wasn't able to transfer all the power to the wheels, it was definitely slower to accelerate. Did something go out of alignment?
View 10 RepliesI just started a daily commute of 85 miles each way and I am wondering if it is as bad for my car as it is on my mind. My question...
My car is a Honda Fit with a small 1.5L engine. I usually cruise at a constant speed of 78-79mph for about 80 miles of the commute each way. The Fit has a 5-speed and in 5th gear the engine is humming at around 3,800-3,900 RPM. The question is, as I put around 1k on my car a week, is it bad for my engine to run it this way? I've heard highways miles are better as far as brakes, starters, so on but I am wondering if I am just not driving a car suitable for my commute.
Would it be beneficial to ditch the small 1.5L engine for a bigger V6? Or, is it perfectly fine to drive at a constant interstate speed with RPMs near 4,000 RPM. What problems could this potentially cause? Any recommended maintenance tips for this type of wear and tear?
My Jetta is working again (I have done head gasket and suspension replacement).
It drives OK but when the engine hits 3.5k RPM... I get a vibration on the whole car, that disappears right away when the RPM increase or decrease a little from ~3500. What could it be? What should I look for? Some engine mount that is getting old?
I have a vibration that shows up when I am going 70 to 75 mph. I don't really feel it much at all in the steering wheel (not shaking side to side at all). It's more the whole car like I feel it in the seat more than anything. It's definitely a fast vibration so I'm sure it has something to do with wheel speed (wheels, bearings or axles?) I thought it was a bad wheel as my rear passenger wheel was bent and out of round making that tire become cupped real bad.
So time came for new tires and I decided to get a new set of wheels to put the new tires on. Got my wheels and tires from tire rack already mounted and balanced. Put the new wheels and tires on and the vibration is still there just the same. Wheel bearings all seem good. The front wheel bearings were replaced about 4 or 5 months ago (vibration was there before wheel bearings were replaced) along with a front suspension refresh kit from ECS with new lower control arms.
I'm curious if the CV axles could cause this type of vibration even though they are not making any noise. My car is not lowered at all and I am running stock wheel and tire sizes. I'm not above trying new axles as ECS has them for a good price. Checked with Raxles first but for the 24v VR6 they only have the performance ones.
I have an 04 Jetta that I recently had the trans replaced and ever since I picked it up there is a vibration in the front end. I took the car back and they said it was my DP hitting the cross member. They suspected mounts. I ordered and installed all 3 new mounts but the noise is still there and the trans mount looks crooked where the mount bolts to the trans bracket.
View 8 RepliesI drive a 12v VR6 and this morning the cars idle was very rough and different than normal, while at idle the engine vibrates a good amount but once I push on the gas the vibration goes away? Bad motor/ trans mounts? She also sounds a lot deeper now, is there anything I should be looking for? Doesn't sound like my chains are off or anything and just pulled the wires and cleaned out around the plugs, should I check the throttle body?
View 3 RepliesSo recently I have been feeling this weird rumbling/vibration in my gas pedal when I really gun it. Whats weird is i feel it mostly in first and second. But i feel it only on full throttle and under boost. I am assuming it has something to do with suspension. But whats weird is it happened after i installed my dp. So would this just be a coincidence or something else? I do know for a fact that I need new strut mounts and bearings, but I've been reading up on them, and the symptoms aren't really similar.
View 7 Replies42dd turboback ... Got it put on today and there is some pretty serious vibration on the driver seat. Why it's doing this? Or does it have to break in a bit
View 4 RepliesI own a 2004.5 PG GLI. The vibration starts at 55mph and gets worse from there. 75mph and you can hardly hold onto the steering wheel.
Some history, I bought the car in feb of 2013. When I got the car it drove fine. It was super low so I raised it a bit. The trans had the input shaft bearing issue so I got a reman trans, while I was there I put a new clutch and flywheel in. Since then the car has never driven right, feels like the tires are really out of balance.
Recently I took the car to the place I got the trans from and they told me the motor mounts were not aligned right, the subframe was bent, the bushings in the control arms were not in correctly, and some other small stuff. Ok, no biggie...? I fixed all this and still have this vibration that I never had before. The tech also told me the alignment was way out cause the car pulls hard left when you give it a good amount of gas. I had the car aligned the day before..
At this point I had replaced:
Ball joints
Wheel bearings
Clutch, flywheel
Trans
Left axle
Strut bushing - usrt race
Now I am onto replacing the subframe and junk. Long story short here is my current list of repairs.
Trans
Clutch,flywheel
Both axles
3 different kinds of wheel bearings-*** are currently in.
Ball joints
Inner and outer tie rods
R32 Control arm bushings
Front rotors and pads
Caliper slid pin rubbers
Subframe and bushings
Coilovers- put konis on, took fks off
Pretty much I have replaced the whole front end. All repairs are done by the book, correct tq specs and replacing hardware when needed.
You're thinking tires cause I have yet to talk about them. I have two sets of wheels and tires. My aftermarkets are 18x8.5 and then I have the factory bbs. I feel the vibration with both sets, the aftermarket are slightly worse but the greater rotating weight with wheel and tire comb I believe is why they are worse. I have had the wheels balanced twice and the car aligned twice. I had the car at a very well known shop in md that works with vw yesterday and they where clueless on the issue. Said maybe wheels and tires but that did not add up cause they balanced out fine.
Nothing I have replaced has made the vibration better or worse. Can you install the flywheel 180 out? It was lined up and went in fine.. Clutch install went beautiful, trans install was normal. Whys the car still pull hard left after being aligned?
Driving on the highway the other day and I was doing about 80 and I noticed that the front end started to vibrate pretty loud so I slowed down to around 70 and it stopped. I got home and called up the local tire shop had all my wheels re balanced as I heard that could be the cause they were near perfect. Tires have about 3,000 miles on them. so yesterday I took it out to see if it would do it again and I noticed when it starts to vibrate at about 80 and I push in the clutch it stops immediately. Could my clutch be going out? or possibly like the throw out bearing.
View 10 Replies1.8T Car only has 73k on it.? When I am sitting at a stop I can hear a vibration sound coming from the engine bay. It goes away as soon as RPMs hit about 2000. My best guess is old, worn out engine mounts.
View 6 Replies2003 Jetta 1.8t 83,000 miles
Mods - Coilovers and Spacers thats it
Issue - Once I hit about 40 mph I get a thump type of vibration. I originally thought it was bad tire balance, but tire balance usually become more noticeable around 60-65. My issue is mainly present at 40 - 55 and especially noticeable on deceleration. My thoughts are maybe a wheel bearing but most likely a axle on the way out. I heard it is common to blow axles on lowered MK4s. To explain the feeling better once you hit 40 mph there is a vibration that seems like a thumping or like that it matches with the rotation of the tire. The vibration is very noticeable between 40 - 55 then it fades but is still there, but to a lesser extent.
I had my A/C and dryer replaced because the last one basically wore itself out after 135K miles on my '01 TDI.
After I got the car back, whenever the air condition is turned out, I sometimes get a very loud intermittent vibration.
I made a video: [URL] ....
What could be the cause of this?
My new to me Golf makes a strange "whistle" sound around 2000+ RPM. In any gear only when accelerating. My car does not have a turbo so its not that, the sound is coming from the motor it self. Very strange.
I dont think it comes from the tranny or clutch.
Car has 95K miles on it, t-belt and water pump done at 68k (but in 2008!, inspected it and the belt looks fine, no cracks or fraying or anything) This whistle sound is so strange. My wife says it sound like a whistle then it changes to a slight vibration sound.
So here is my situation, back in September I had to replace my passenger side cv axle on my 99' Mk IV Jetta and ever since then I have had a vibration whenever I exceed speeds over 70. This vibration is accompanied with a droning sound that gets louder the faster I go. But the weird part is all of this only happens when I am accelerating. If I push in the clutch or take my foot off of the accelerator it goes away immediately. Since all that started (for other reasons I might add) I have replaced the tires, both front ball joints, the driver side steering knuckle and both front struts.
Additionally and I'm not sure if this is related but it does seem coincidental. The muffler bumps on the body when I'm accelerating as well, but only after the exhaust has warmed up. I am at a loss. When the tires were installed they did a balance on the wheels and they didn't say anything about the wheels being bent or "out of round".