Golf IV / Jetta IV :: Axle Popped Loose, Spilling All The Tranny Oil
Aug 12, 2013
So I just had my transmission replaced because my cv axle popped loose and tore a hole right into my old one spilling all the tranny oil all over the road. I was able to find another used one and then bolt it up and now I have a small issue. Its been leaking a little bit of tranny oil through the one piece on the bottom that has two bolts on it and a VW logo on it.
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I have an 02 Jetta the the left CV Axle came loose from the tranny/axle flange. I checked the Bentley and it shows that a bolt holds the flange on, I guess a spline. My question when taking one off, is there anything inside that will drop/pop off when I pull it? The reason I need to take it off is that some of the bolts actually broke off, while others screwed their way out. Not sure why they came out or what made the others break but they did. It would be so much easier to get the broken bolts out with the flange out.
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Somehow, I managed to pop out the light module in the driver's side footwell. It still works, but was dangling loose by the cord. I stuffed it temporarilly behind the side trim panel, just to get it out of the way of the clutch.
It doesn't look damaged, but I can't see where/how this attaches to the structure in the footwell. I tried looking how the passenger side module is attached, but it's set into/covered by a trip panel the driver's side doesn't have.
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I just installed my brand new coil overs. I went to drop the car from the jack and as it lowered I noticed my strut mount fully popped out of the strut mount housing. I can't even close my hood. Did I do something wrong?
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So I was pulling out of the parking lot at work in first gear going about 10mph when I heard a loud clang and lost power to the wheels, I just had the car towed home and its dark out so i haven't gotten a chance to really take a good look.
My question is, how did this happen? the car is lowered on coils. I also Installed a B&M short shiftier about 3 weeks ago, i doubt it but could that have anything to do with this?
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This weekend I replaced the transmission in my 2000 12v vr6 5 speed golf. Got In drive around block going through each gear all seemed fine. Then I tried reverse and couldnt find it. Seem like it reverse was more like 5th cause car would try and move forward. I have the new style shifter and the bearing is quite a bit beat up. However if I in engine bay operating the gears directly on shift paddle I still can't seem to find reverse. Is there some kind of lock out or what could I be missing. I tried adjusting the cables but that seemed to make things worse not better.
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I have a 05 1.8t jetta wagon , my transmission went out and it wouldnt grab it would be revving at 5k and 6k going about 20 mph then when i turn it on again, it worked fine but it was switching gear on time but very rough what could the problem be?
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I just picked up a 2000 VR6 golf a few weeks ago. been doing lots and lots of reading. It needs a transmission and was wondering what other things should I do why tranny is out of the way. I know some things can either only be done with tranny out or are a hell of a lot easier with it out of way. So what are your recommendations. Looking to pick up a tranny and get this bad boy on the road asap. Car ran great no issues or sounds my buddie just shifted to 3rd on highway and something walked loose in tranny and kaboom she went.
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Okay so I bought this car and a week later tranny wouldn't shift out of first when I would slow down or at least it would take a min. I would hit 4or 5 grand then it would jolt me back. It wouldn't do it every time though. I bought it to go to college drove it the 900 miles on the highway and had no problems except right before I left town but then fine. All I did was change the tranny fluid before I left which I can confidently say I don't think has been changed before that. stunk bad bud no metal.
Alright now I'll go jump in the car to go to class and it will not leave first. If I put it in the manual mode it thinks it's in third but clearly if in doing 15 mph at 4000 rpm that's not the case. It doesn't do it every time. Kinda hit or miss. After driving for a min it usually shifts. Sometimes I make it the two miles without it shifting though. Also sometimes It will shift but once I slow down it won't shift out of first again.
I have seen a code for torque management since I bought the car. The check engine light is on now but I haven't seen the torque code since I change the MassES. that's not to say it's not still there. I used a different handheld computer for the check engine light the last time I did it and I could have missed it because I was unfamiliar with it. I have put a mass airflow sensor, battery, alternator, and changed the tranny fluid since I have owned the car. drained 3L of tranny fluid and put 3L back in. Oh and the last time I checked the light it said lean in bank 1 but I was assuming that was an unrelated issue.
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The little folding drawer/shelf inside my console popped loose and when I took the car in for scheduled maintenance, I asked the service dept to put it back together. They advised me that after trying to fix it for a while, it could not be repaired.
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So long story short, last week I destroyed my first gear in the tranny. This weekend I did the complete swap and put a used o2j in. 5 speed. 2.0 motor.
Right after the swap, on the first startup I noticed the clutch felt softer. The grip is also a little less than it used to be.
Right before my transmission blew I upgraded from 15" alloys to 17" longbeaches with spacers all around- much heavier. It happened on my first drive with the new rims so I didn't get to feel the car much.
I reused my current slave cylinder. Did not disconnect it from the line while swapping. I did however notice my slave boot had a small little dent in it (super small) but no tears or anything. Also, reinstalling it i pushed it in and compressed the boot and secured it with the bolts - I hope I did this right.
I redid my rear brakes about a month ago, did not disconnect brake lines or bleed the system.
I have already driven about 50km on the new tranny. Today I am getting the tranny service (flush) done because I didn't have the sockets to check it after install. I'm going to ask the mechanic if he might know anything. The brakes also feel a touch less but I'm not sure if this is cause of the 17" wheels.. does the system just need to be bled?
All gears go in smooth - clutch in.
All gears go in smooth with car off.
No grinding of gears when switching or driving.
No reverse grind.
No slipping in any gears.
Just a soft pedal and feels like softer bite. I did the tranny swap in a rush, did not replace fork, TOB or anything. They should all be fine, I'm thinking it's just air but need confirmation. I just want this car to last another year or so..
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I am stuck in the process of replacing a driver side CV axle on a 2000 Jetta VR6 automatic. I followed a Youtube video that may have misguided me. I removed the ball joint connection to take out the axle. (I will need a alignment after all this.) I was able to take out the old cv axle, but unable to put the new one on. While taking out the old one, the strut sank 2 inches. I then disconnected the suspension from the braking system, so it would be lighter and easier to push the strut up. However, it will not budge upwards. Do I need to compress the spring? How to move the strut up?
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I have a 2001 gti that I just changed the cv axle on and it feels like it's failing already but there's no play in the axle or place it mounts to the tranny.. Doesn't feel like the last one I removed but rumbles and clicks at 30+mph.
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Recently i noticed that my gear stick is very loose. I have read that this is a problem with the linkage bushes. I have found that the bushes are in the engine bay (3 i think) but i was wondering if there are more bushes under the gear stick that i need to change. Looking for a complete kit for all the parts needed ? Do i have to change something else ?
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I recently just lowered my gti and I noticed that the sway bar was laying on my passenger side axle. I put adjustable end links on but that did not got the problem either, this car I daily drive.
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So I just but my golf about a month ago and have hit many problems but the most annoying is the hum I get at 3500 rpms. In my searching I feel somewhat confident this is caused by a cheap right axle replacement. I also went under and found on the left axle markings that indicate its is oem VW and I was unable to find these on the right side. anyway I have found this: [URL]....
It says it is a hollow axle right there and it is 170 less than the cheapest oem one I have found. would this workout?
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I changed the driver side axle on my 03 GLI 24v VR6 today and the driver side of the car now seems higher than it was. I was given the wrong axle twice so the car sat on a jack stand for hours could this be why? If so how long will it take to revert? Only things that was undone was the ball joint and tie rod so I'm not too sure why it seems higher.
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I am replacing the mid and rear (suitcase) mufflers on my daughter's 2001 2.0L Jetta wagon. She is not interested in anything that would be louder than stock. What I am seeing is that the rear axle needs to be dropped to remove / install the rear muffler. Can this be correct? I know I can continue to cut off parts of the old muffler but that does me no good when it comes to install the new unit.
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I have a 2004 GLI that I just completed the slave cylinder on, after i got everything back together my driver side axle is now rubbing really bad on the sway bar where it connects to the endlinks. What could be wrong?
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I have an 04 GLI 1.8T 6speed. It is very clear to me that the car has some hydraulic issues. I can't leave the clutch in for more than 10 seconds or it stays on the floor and I have to pull it back up with my foot. So what does this mean? (Besides the fact that I'm a double clutch king now) I couldn't wrap my head around why this was happening and thought at first it may have something to do with a hole in the Slave Cylinder that is allowing air into the lines. Neither confirmed nor denied yet.
My other problem I have is that my car is losing brake fluid at about a quart every 3 weeks. I'm no expert but that is alarmingly fast, and it is getting worse by the month. When driving I get the error message of STOP and my brake light flashes, which is how I know it is low. I can't locate the leak but I do see a drip coming from somewhere behind the drivers side front tire, relatively close to the firewall. I don't know if I have a broken brake fluid line that is dripping down, or if something else could be broken that is causing the leak.
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So I drove my car (2000 vw golf tdi auto) to work fine. When I started it to drive home, it squealed and then all of a sudden stopped squealing so I popped my hood and looked and the belt can fit 2 fingers under it. Is there anything I can check diagnose this? I hear it could b a tensioner pulley.
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