Golf IV / Jetta IV :: Assuming Car Clogged Because Of Rough Idle
Sep 22, 2016
After putting on a o2 spacer my CEL cleared. I finally got some downtime so I parked the car in the garage to chase electrical gremlins, do the timing belt, and replace the downpipe and catalytic converter. Lately it's been sounding like I have quite the exhaust leak so that spurred me into doing a little quicker. Long story short I got the cat out and after looking inside of it I see this .
The inside of the cat is completely bare, not even a remnant of any form of honeycomb. So was this a hollowed out cat or did everything deteriorate and blowout. I was assuming my cat was clogged because of my rough idle lately... but looks like I was dead wrong.
Now for additional info.
2001 Jetta 2.0 AEG 220K miles
Previously had a CEL for the catylst below threshold
I can't currently check my codes because the OBD2 isn't reading/connecting, but that's not related.
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I only removed the standard air filter housing and fresh air intake yesterday to get access to the VSS and Speedo drive to change the differential fluid on my 01M transmission. I was surprised to find that there was a fine metal mesh screen installed at the entrance to this air intake tube. This would be located behind the battery and just behind the drivers side headlight is where this metal mesh screen is located. Anyways, this was easily disassembled to clean and reassemble. However, I did not find anything about this mesh screen in my Chilton's manual, but this is now on my annual maintenance list. I added some pic's to show the clogged air tube. There was also a spring loaded door on this air intake tube...
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My golf 2.0 vw isn't doing so good right now. It has 227000 miles on it. It has been driving great, and then last week it started to idle rough. It idles between 600-800 rpms. it fluctuates between 600-800 rpms. It had the check engine light on before this happened i was told by my brother that it was an 02 sensor. I had it checked for what is causing the engine light to come on today at o Rileys, and it came up with 11 codes. Some of the codes where 02 sensors, it was running to rich, needed a new computer, evaps system, fuel pump, fuses, coil pack, spark plugs, It shakes when you sit in it when it is idling like not a bad shake but a small one you cal feel, l'm including a video of it running.
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The problems seems to be getting progressively worse, it has a rough idle and when it smooths out is only at about 600 rpms and still sounds strange. Also, I am running extremely rich, blows flames quite often and in OCMD I went 100 miles on a half tank. Car is stage 1 unitonic with sai and evap deleted. I changed the maf and that didn't change anything. I was searching for vacuum leaks yesterday and noticed that one of the vacuum caps I have on the bottom of the intake manifold was dried out so I took it off so i could put my finger over it and see if it ran better, when the cap was off it ran great but when I put my finger over it it would go back to an awful idle Now when I come to a stop it will sometimes drop the rpm so low that it shuts off, when I am driving you can't tell a difference.
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2002.5 VW Jetta GLI VR6 24V 6-Speed. Barely accepts a small can of Freon from full empty, and pressure goes to over 100 psi in the red, compressor does not kick in, idle fluctuates with A/C button on, small fan kicks on fine, some air pump turns on and off with the erratic idle and sounds like shot of compressed air. When I turn the A/C button off, idle comes back to normal and that psss sound is gone. I already changed compressors and that made no difference. Video below.....
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2005 gti 1.8t having really rough idle and misfires at idle fine while driving pulling codes:
P0300
P0301
P0302
P0304
Unplugged MAF and didn't make a difference...
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the last couple weeks the engine has been running poorly, rough idle .... and sputters until about 4k rpm with a noticeable loss in power. No clue what it is ... it seems to spring up after I got a coolant hose leak on top of the motor.
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I have a 2003 2.0 gas Jetta (181k miles, automatic.) that won't rev over 3k, starts rough, idles rough and wont stop setting a P0341 cam position sensor code.
The car was not running when I got it, I replaced the coil pack and it ran but not over 3k. Cleared codes, it sets the P0341 immediately.
Had timing belt, water pump, tensioner and cam pos sensor replaced. Still, sets p0341 code, starts rough, idles rough and wont rev over 3k.
The throttle servo makes a little noise when actuated, shop thinks this is my demon - suggests replace throttle body. This car is for my son who will be taking it to college soon.
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I have a 2000 jetta 2.0, and the idle seems to rough and when I start the car it seems like I might stall.
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When I first start me car up, doesn't matter the outdoor temperature it idles terrible jumping up and down. When I go to put it in first gear and attempt to pull out it's very jumpy/jerky because of this rough idle. Once I drive a little bit if I stop it will idle fine. This problem seems be slightly worse when it's wet/raining/humid.
Its throwing codes P1128 Manf Control p0300 multiple misfires and then p0301,0302,0303,0304 which is misfire for that individual cylinder. Also my oil light blinks once in awhile, think that could possible be sep issue though.
I changed plugs, the old ones were really white... I believe that means running lean?
Put in new coil/wires
Gas Filter
Mass air flow sensor
Changed 02 sensors
Also did the seafoam treatment, none of it seemed to work...
Though about possibly changing temp sensor next. I hope it has nothing to do with fuel injectors....
2000 Jetta 2.0l 4cy AEGengine
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I'm having a little issue with my 03' vr6. I've had the car for almost 2 months now, which it's pretty new to me, since about the time I got it, the car would sometime roughly idle on start, just for a few seconds, maybe for 10-15 seconds, and then it'll go back to idling at 600-800 rpm and being normal.
This has happened maybe 5 times since I've owned the car, and since then I've changed the battery, and cleaned my MAF. The other day when I started my car it (the rough idle on start) lasted for maybe 30 seconds, so it kinda scared me a bit.
Also there is no check engine light. Other than the weird idle on start, the car feels responsive, quick and there doesn't seem to be lack of power. This is the only mk4 gti I've driven fast in, so there may be lack of power and I just don't know it.
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I have an 03 vr6. I'm getting codes p0300, 0303, and 0304. I changed the plugs and the coils and still has changed nothing. In the morning when I first go to start the car it has a rough start and idles rough. But after letting it warm up it is fine. It drives perfectly fine, no misfires. None of this started happening until the car ran hot a few weeks ago. Did a compression test and everything came up fine. So would could my issue be? I'm at a loss here. I was thinking fuel issue but if it was a fuel issue, wouldn't it run rough all the time?
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Just bought a 2.0l 2001 golf four door. the previous owner had the car for only a short time. They claimed the CEL came on and the code was for the MAF. He cleaned it and when I test drove the car there was no light or sign of any issues with how the car ran. Today while figuring out why the alarm kept going off(battery died in key fob and i replaced them), it began idling rough. It had just started to rain as well. From what i could find from older thread is it could still be the MAF, TCV/ISV, or O2 sensor. Is there any good way to diagnose without a vag-com cable. Mine wont update its firmware and i'm screwed at the moment in terms of gathering info on the problem.
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I have a 01 vw bora 1.8t and recently I let it sit for one day and now it has trouble starting when it's cold and when it does start it has a very rough idle and often stalls out of you try and press the gas. Once it has warmed up she runs fine. My check engine light is on but I have no way to take her down to a shop to get the codes read. What is wrong with my car? One of my friends told me it could be a cool pack or a sensor.
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So this morning when I started my car to warm up everything was fine. I went inside to make some coffee and I heard my idle change slightly and didn't think to much about it but when I got in I could feel my car shaking a little bit then when I pulled off my road there was a little hesitation in first gear taking off and when I would shift I would get a little rev hang between gears. So I've realized when idling its slightly fluctuating between 6-7 hundred rpm. I have no loss of power and it has not hesitated since the first take off. I'm thinking its something to deal with air. I checked my airbox and realized the bolt closest to the battery wasn't threaded so I fixed that and tried looking for any leaks but haven't found anything.
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To start I drive a mliv 1.8t jetta. The car has a stage II custom tune, a turbo back exhaust straight piped, and a splitter valve. The valve cover gasket, spark plugs and coil packs, rear o2 sensor (with a 42dd spacer as well) were all changed recently to try and stop my problems from reoccurring. Also the MAF sensor was cleaned too, but was not very dirty. The problem tends to cease when I delete the codes and it has to relearn the fuel mapping. When the check engine light comes back on, the problems re occur. The code thrown is catalytic converter below threshold, but i have no cats. What happens with my car is, when the car is fully warmed, the car has a rough idle, to where it sounds like a heavy duty diesel truck when idling, the car will shake from the vibrations, when i go to start moving, the car bogs down to where it feels like it will stall, but it will buck and shoot off. Also when driving the car randomly bogs down, but then will shoot off will power! Sometimes at idle when its bad, if i tap the gas, the car will back fire very loudly.
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02 Jetta GLS ... 1.8 Liter Turbo ... 5 speed manual
Threw a lot of codes I don't know the #s but I can get them tomorrow, but I know there was a throttle pedal sensor, cam sensor, MAF, turbo, and a computer one.
I've had the car 2 weeks and its driven fine every day until today I backed out of my drive way after doing some driving earlier in the day and popped it into first and she fell on her face, no power rpm's were near 300. shut it off start it back up idles a little rough and I have a traction control light CEL and EPC lights all on. when I first take off it chugs and is hard to even get going and then it takes miles to get up to speed. I can put the pedal to the metal and my rpms barely budge and the car ever so slowly gains speed, she eventually will top out around 70. but that's after quite a stretch.
This happened one other time and after a few minutes everything went back to normal for nearly a week , this time no such luck.
Possibilities to shoot down maybe?
-fuel filter/system
-Cat. converter
-MAF sensor
-Coil packs
-computer something??
-throttle body
-turbo
-electrical
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I am having a problem with my car today. When I started it today while going home from work I noticed that it's idling a bit rough. Then i noticed that the pressure is going under -0.8 bar. Golf 4 1.8t boost going under 20 hg at idle. While driving it is normal but when i slow down it hesitates like it's gonna turn off and the pressure goes less than -1 bar .. What the problem may be ?
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Random rough idle about every 30 seconds at low 700s (rpms) and it'll bounce up and down a little. The code was p1515 (No CEL or other lights have come on yet) which is something about the intake manifold valve and there is an air-shooting noise that is pretty loud but just sounds like air that's being lost somewhere like maybe a leak and that happens when i rev right before you can hear the engine rev the air/shooting noise occurs. I don't really think I'm losing power but I got the car recently so maybe I am and don't notice it. If this is a common leak or something with the intake manifold valve let me know,
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2002 GTI 1.8t (No Tune) 95k
Car becomes harder to start before the problem starts occurring. When the car is started, the idle will rise above what it normally does (750rpm) to 1200-1300rpms and drop back down and raise back up again. Its like its constantly revving itself, this continues the whole time the gas is not being applied. With this comes the EPC light, the Traction Control light and a hardness to the brake pedal (as if the brake booster hose is disconnected or its not getting its vacuum assist, very hard to brake when rpms are at idle). Sometimes im able to boost but most of the time, i am not able to exceed 2lbs of boost. Limp Mode? This has happened before about 5k ago.
I sacked up and got it diagnosed and it turned out to be the Throttle Body, Crankshaft position sensor and the brake booster hose. All at the same time, which is weird. But all those items were replaced by me and the car ran fantastic. until now. This will be the 3rd throttle body put in since the car came off the line. it seems like thats the problem since the brake booster hose is fed vacuum to the throttle body? But i would love second or third opinion before money is spent. If it is the throttle body, what could make this unit go out so systematically and slowly? If it was wiring then you would thing itd kill the part quicker than 5-10k miles. I will post the CEL codes when i can get one to come on.
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I have a 2004 gls 1.8t Jetta. It has a straight piped turbo back exhaust, and a stage 2 tune. I recently had a problem with my car starting to rough idle when the engine gets to proper temp. The car starts to idle roughly, and when driving the car will bog down, if I keep my foot on the gas, the car acts like it is coasting and the rpms fall, but at some point the car will shoot off like i floored it. At lower rpms in the 1st and second gear, the car will randomly and periodically start bucking, with the same symptoms. I already replaced my coil packs and spark plugs with a kit off ecs, and when i went to change the spark plugs i had oil on the spark plugs and oil leaking from a bad valve cover gasket, so that was replaced as well. I replaced the fuel filter already.
The MAF sensor was just cleaned and didn't look too dirty. When I unplug the MAF it still idles rough. The fuel pump relay can be heard working properly when the door opens. Another problem that sometimes occurs on cold start is if I don't wait long enough for the pump to activate or sometime right after it starts, the car will start partly then stall out. When driving and the car is bucking the exhaust gives rich fuel smell. Also when 2 stepping in the car (which I don't do very often), the CEL starts to blink and the car misfires and drives rough. I figure since I don't have many parts on it yet I probably shouldn't do it anyway so I don't blow up the engine.
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