Golf IV / Jetta IV :: Airbag / ABS And Brake Light Came On - Car Dies When Coasting To The Side Of Road
Dec 2, 2014
Driving my car (2001 Jetta Wolfsburg w/ 1.8T) to work yesterday and all of a sudden the airbag light comes on... As I was almost to my exit I continued another 500 yards. The ABS/and brake light come on as well and the car dies as I coast to the side of the road. I would not start so I had my spouse bring the trailer and another battery to see if it would start up. It started up and we loaded onto the trailer.
Took the battery to Napa and they said battery was bad. Today I buy another battery and the voltage of the battery not running is 12.2V and with the car running the alternator to battery voltage is the same. How do I know if the voltage regulator is bad or the diode or something internally in the alternator? Also how to I get the airbag light reset?
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I have a 2000 VW Jetta GL. A few weeks ago I noticed my charging light come on followed by abs and airbag lights. Which would mean that the alternator is not charging the battery. However I kept on driving and this light would go off. However when I hit a bump on the road this light goes off meaning that the battery is being charged by the alternator. I recently installed a sound system in the vehicle which worked without problems for a few weeks before I started having this problem. Since then I have changed the alternator, battery and taken out the sound system. I now have a 125 amp alternator instead of a 90 amp alternator. The charge light doesn't come on anymore after startup but the abs, airbag and emergency brake light with a beep is now occurring.
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I just bought a 2013 Golf R and have been driving around with some kind of road noise since the day I got it. The sound occurs when coasting only, and is most audible above 55mph. It is best described as a mid-high-pitched hum or drone, kind of like a much quieter semi (when you drive next to them on the highway).
I took the car in to a VW dealer and they were able to hear the sound on a test drive but were unable to diagnose the source. They rotated tires, checked all bearings/hubs, and eventually called VW to find out that it is a "characteristic of the vehicle" and that VW is aware of it and nothing more.
Aside form the noise there are absolutely no issues with the car and it only has about 8k miles on it...
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I purchased a 2002 2.0 jetta a couple of months ago and not long after I had it I noticed that the airbag light had come on. I brought it to a garage and had them check it out and they came back with a code that read 01218 side airbag igniter passenger side. When. I asked about getting this fixed they really couldn't say much about what exactly the problem was other then to say that it could be a problem with the whole system...which I don't get as the code only came back for the side airbag igniter. I also went and spoke to the dealer here in town and they wouldn't even speak to me about it unless I let them have the car be seen by one of their mechanics and putting the computer on it to read the code which I had already told them about.
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I was check fuses looking to see if taillight bulb was bad. I pulled out a few while the car was running, then there was a beep, and airbag light came on. Tailight fuse was ok, just had a bad bulb. Put in new bulb, everything works fine but airbag light stays on. All fuses are good.
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I'm looking for the secret to eliminating the airbag light when running an after market wheel. I realize that not everyone agrees with this modification, but could we stick to the subject at hand. I know there are some hubs that come with a premade resistor that you plug in that eliminates the light, and I've read that some people use a 4.7 resistor. I don't have a plug in resistor, I've tried the 4.7 and that didn't work for me. I've never been able to find any place that would sell the plug in resistor separately, is this possible? What I might have done wrong?
[URL]........
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When opening driver side door, engine dies.Cannot access the convenience control module with VAGcom.
Swapped in another CCM, same behavior. Have not tried yet to access the swap module with VAGcom.
What might cause the 'engine kill' when door is opened? How to further troubleshoot?
Quick fix: disable 'door contact' (not sure, but assume it is integrated into the door lock/actuator (as a microswitch likely?).
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Not permanently, but temporarily? I can't really figured out any obvious reason why it is on, all the connections seem good, but I don't really know if I've covered all my bases. I obviously care that it functions properly in the event of a collision, however I was curious if there is a way to manually turn it off for a duration? I have an inspection coming up which doesn't allow for this light to be on.
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I swapped my cloth seats for leathers today and the airbag light came on after... the seats were out of a 2000 golf, so I was expecting to have to splice wires, but, the connectors were the exact same on the cloth from my car and leathers from the donor car... so I just did a plug and play... I scanned with vcds and got these codes:
Address 15 -------------------------------------------------------
Controller: 1C0 909 605 A
Component: 1M AIRBAG VW51 02 0006
Coding: 12621
Shop #: WSC 00000
2 Faults Found:
00592 - Seat Belt Switch: Right (E25)
30-10 - Open or Short to B+ - Intermittent
01218 - Side Airbag Igniter: Passenger Side (N200)
32-10 - Resistance too High - Intermittent
I take it the passenger seat is the problem... I didn't clear the codes, I wanted to ask here first before I did if I need to do anything to connectors there or just the clear the codes?
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I have a 2004 Jetta which has the 2-wire seat belt sensor on the passenger side and a 4-wire sensor for the drivers side. I swapped seats from an older style MKIV which had no seat belt sensor on the passenger side and a 2-wire seat belt sensor on the driver side.
As of now the seat belt sensors are disconnected and I am throwing seat belt sensor codes for both passenger and driver side. I have already tried to clear the codes via VAGcom...took care of 2 ignitor codes, but not these seat belt switch codes.
Is it possible to splice in the 2-wires from the older seats to the correct 2 out of 4 wires coming from my car? What's the difference between the 4-wire and 2-wire connector on the driver side?
Also, reading through the DIY here: [URL] ..... It states that I would need a recoding of the Airbag controller in VAG-COM to deal with the airbag light. What this code is suppose to be?
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Last winter I had to replace my front passenger seat. The seat was starting to burn a hole or two, generally getting too hot for the passenger. At about the same time my airbag warning idiot light came on! I changed my front seat. The seat change was no biggy, but I keep getting the airbag light! Can this be cleared simply or only by a dealer?
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I've got a 2004 Golf 2.0 GL.....and for some reason this morning out of the blue when I tried to start the car to go to work it fired right up....and then about 1-2 seconds later immediately dies. I tried several times to start it....but every time it fired right up, then dies in a second or two. I also noticed that I'm getting the Immobilizer light on the dash....I'm guessing this is the problem.
Why would I get this all of a sudden? Did something happen to the chip in my key? Could the sensor in the steering column by bad? I don't want to have to load this thing on a trailer and take it to the dealership. Why would this happen out of the blue??
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While driving on the highway I lowered my seat. Once it got to the lowest setting, I heard something sort of like a snap, and it threw an airbag light, so I raised the seat back up. I'm new to VW, but I know there's lots of possibilities for the light.
2000 Jetta GLS
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The remote locks on my 2000 Jetta GLX have been working intermittently for almost a year. I had been using the manual key to lock/unlock until finally the manual lock alarm disarm also became intermittent and I found myself stuck at a truck rest stop at 1:30 a.m. with my alarm repeatedly howling into the night and no way to disarm it. I felt caught. I felt trapped. Like I was found guilty of a crime I had never committed. I knew then - I had work to do.
My research in the forums indicated that the door lock assembly was a common culprit - a gremlin, often leaving headaches as it's only calling card. I worked quick, pulling a driver's side door lock assembly out of 2003 at the local junkyard and replacing it no problem. To my surprise, although this DID fix the manual locking/unlocking/alarm disarming problem, it DID NOT fix the remote unlock problem. The culprit was still at large.
Business as usual with intermittent remote unlocking/locking/trunk-popping for weeks until my dash threw the "AIR BAG FAULT" light. I decided to question a local garage owner who's VAGCOM told me that it was caused by something on the driver's side door. He was busy, but it reset fine and I was on my way. I know now that I should have asked for the code then but I was caught in the beauty of a girl who only nails polish was the grease and dirt of the car she worked under. And about a mile down the road, the light came back on.
Now, the "AIR BAG FAULT" light is on as soon as I start the car. However, the time seems to vary slightly before the Jetta beeps and tells me in faded red letters "AIR BAG FAULT". Sometimes right when I leave my driveway, sometimes not before I drive a mile or two down the road. My remote unlock is still working intermittently.
I need both my airbag fault and the remote unlock fixed. I'm wondering if these two problems are related? Like maybe there's a loose connection that is causing the airbag sensor to short and it's beeping when it bumps out of place and maybe the intermittent remotes are being caused by slamming of my driver's side door too hard & it's losing a connection as well. I tried putting a little conductivity jelly in the female clip that goes to the window regulator motor because I heard that the airbag sensor is in there somewhere but it didn't make a difference.
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My 2000 Jetta GLS is producing a clunking/knocking sound from the front end (possibly left-front) ONLY while coasting and going straight. It mostly goes away if I turn left or right and totally goes away when I give the wheels engine power or when I brake.
I recently replaced my front-left control arm due to a thrashed rear bushing. I didn't replace the bearing as I didn't have a pickle fork. Not sure if this is related.
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I’ve been having a bit of a problem with my 99 Nissan Sentra that is becoming more and more costly every day. It started with my airbag light flashing, so I pulled over to see what might be wrong. I turned the car off, and when I went to start it again it wouldn’t start. I had the battery checked out and it was fine; I ended up changing the starter and the ignition switch. This worked for a week. Later I left my car running in the morning to warm it up, and it did the same thing, the airbag light came on and the battery went dead.
I jumped it and the battery wore itself out again, so this time I took it to the mechanic to replace the alternator. This worked for a week. This time my wife was driving down the highway, the airbag light came on again, and the battery went dead. After a costly tow from the police impound to my home, it will jump, but the battery slowly dies. The only noticeable problems the car has (aside from the obvious battery going dead) is that there is a belt that squeals when I have the air conditioner turned on and I have an oil leak somewhere.
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I was just wondering if this is normal. On flat road I can coast without touching the gas pedal and go 15mph. Is the idle set up too high?
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Question, I have a 2003 VW Golf GLS 2.0L AHV (5 speed). The brake vacuum line is cracked after the check valve on the intake side. I looked up the part number on the hose (at work and don't have it on me at the moment), did some research and noticed some revisions to that part number. Eventually settled on [URL] ..... (I ordered a new one since I needed to order a few things). Needless to say, I am beginning to think I ordered wrong.
I noticed that the check valve on the new hose has a 3rd piece that a smaller hose looks to clamp on? The check valve that is in my car doesn't have that. Did I order the wrong part? or did I need to be a cap?
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I removed the rear shelf to do some reupholstering. Obviously, the third brake light is enclosed in this assy. Now every thing is back together and my 3rd brake light isn't working anymore. Probably got banged around when it was out. On troubleshooting it, it actually works but comes on so low that you can't even see it behind the glass. I even disassembled the whole thing and directly wired it to the car battery same results. All LEDs illuminate but at a fraction of what they should. I'd say maybe 1/10 of what they should. I checked continuity of the whole circuit board and every thing checks with no broken solder except for 1 diode. It's the black one on the far right that has no continuity. Why such a low illumination?
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My brake fluid is fine and fuses 5 & 9 are good. Brake lever is all the way down as well. Have read that for some simply replacing the cap worked. Car is a 2000 w/170K. BTW, A/C does not work, clutch not spinning, fuses ok there as well. I've made sure a/c button is not on nor is recirc button. Some have said probe can be related to this but that also can show up with a bad fuse # 5, but mine is good.
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So my brake light on my dash is on. The other morning when I started my car the like came on blinking with only 3 beeps. No more beeping after that just blinking. Now it has been doing this every time I start my car since (3 beeps and blinking). My abs light is also on but it has been on for years. I checked the brake fluid and it is full. I also never use my ebrake because it doesn't work so this shouldn't be the problem.
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