Golf IV / Jetta IV :: Air Hose Coming Off The Top Of Airbox On VR6
Apr 22, 2015
This hose comes off the top of the air box next to the air intake and goes down towards the front of the engine. I need to know what this hoses called or what the part number is as mine is missing.
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I bought this 2003 gti in July, noticed a little smoke coming out near the airbox but the motor had been cleaned recently so I assumed it was whatever they used cleaning it just burning off.
Today, installing an air filter, I see that there is a rubber hose dry rotted with smoke coming from it. I don't know what it goes to or how to replace it. The car drives fine. I do have CEL on for a coolant system fault, but all fluids are level it's not overheating and it doesn't seem to be losing any power.
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I have a really small leak coming from the lower end of my power steering hose, it's super small, I was wondering if I could fix this by wiping it down really well and dry, and then layering it with plasti-dip. I think the leak is small/slow enough for me to get in a few good layers. Would this be an okay fix, or would the plasti-dip separate fast?
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[URL] .... been home for 2 hrs now, and it still kicks in.
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broke down, finally installed dieselgeek SSK. Putting stock airbox back on, I pulled up the tube that clips onto the bottom of the airbox. And the bottom end wasn't attached to anything. Did I pull it out of somewhere? The end has a blue foam "plug". Didn't know if it was a water drainage tube or breather tube or what.
I re-attached it and stuck the bottom down towards the front bumper where I think it pulled out of. Second thing is getting the box seated and 'snapped down' onto the two rubber grommets that hold it in place. I couldn't get them to positively snap back on. Doing something wrong? Can take the box off and re-do it tomorrow as needed. VAG-COM doesn't show any codes and no CEL.
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So I had a hose come apart that is located under the intake manifold on my 1.8t. It's some type of air hose because I can hear and feel the air coming out when the car is running, and it's also making my car run rough and miss, mostly at idle.
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yesterday my upper radiator hose connector broke off and I replaced it filled it up with coolant and now the upper radiator hose gets really hot at normal temps while the lower hose is cold maybe and gets warm not hot or anything... I see some steam coming off the radiator but i think its all the coolant that splashed on it yesterday from the hose busting off and flooding it basically. the car does not overheat at idle or driving or anything so I am curious to what it could be
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After installing my cai, I couldn't find where to put this breather hose, I'm lost to if I need it and where to put it...
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I have a new hose I need to install because the one on now is cracked... I have pulled the metal clip down, but how do I remove this so I can install the new one? I don't want to break anything else yanking on it too hard.
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During the removal of my hood. I've broken my fluid line for the windshield washer. Not sure how to replace or if this is able to go back in my hood, I've searched and have fallen short to a decent answer.
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So I just bottomed out really hard and I pulled over to a gas station to check out my car to see if I busted anything. I noticed on the way to the gas station that for the first two times I hit the brakes hard there was a clunking noise but now it went away. Onto the leaking part though, there are two hoses that run just along the inside of the frame on the passenger side just behind the wheel and one of the lines is leaking a lot of water. What these lines run to/from? I'm going to get the car on the lift tomorrow.
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I have coolant leaking from the bottom of this hose on my brothers car. I am not very familiar with the BEW's as I drive an ALH. Just looking for info about part number or name on this hose so I can get a new one. Has a part number MH3364 on it but that is not working anywhere.
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2001 12v vr6 here, found my leak, now I need to know what the heck this is! Is this even removable?! It's basically a plastic elbow that connects to the radiator on the driver side, I have a photo. I tried fixing this crack with some glue and tape (It was late and couldn't get any temperature friendly glue), as you can see in the picture, it's covered in electric tape, and the hot coolant burned right through it all.
Another problem I had is my fuse box, burning through my fan fuse, looks something like this, the fuse was burned, but after placing a new fuse (just for contact), the fan worked, so I'm guessing a new fuse box is where to start ?
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I searched but couldn't immediately find anything about this particular line. I've been struggling with a rough idle for the past couple weeks, throwing codes that I'm running to lean all the time. I cleaned the throttle body and MAF, and was in the process of replacing the MAF and noticed a small hose fitting behind the MAF but before the throttle body was pretty much split in half. I don't know what it's for and I'm replacing it regardless, but could this be the source of my problem?
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what material is used for the stock airbox? The 90 degree "snorkel" intake tube that is held on by two rivets on my airbox has a tab at one rivet that is cracked. This allows the snorkel to move around and come unsealed from the main airbox. It is "pre-filter" so there is no performance issue, but I would like it to stay in place and look right.
Depending on the material, I was going to shave some slivers from a thicker part of the box and mix it with a solvent to make a paste and apply it to the crack. This will only work if the material "melts" in strong solvents like acetone/MEK. Once it dries, it will be good as new. I have done this many times with ABS and PVC. There is a small gap to fill so simply gluing might not be as strong.
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I have a 3.3L 1995 Dodge Caravan. I just noticed a white foam coming from the hose on top of the front valve cover. The hose leads to the air cleaner. The hose had clear water running out of it when I lifted it out (maybe half an ounce). Foamy stuff did not run out. The foamy stuff feels more slippery than water. The air filter and those little square debris pads were soaked. There is no water or foam that I can see on the dipstick. The inside of the oil filler cap had foam around it also . This just started. The car has many miles on it and has never had a head gasket replaced. The valve cover gaskets were just replaced and nothing unusual noted. The car runs fine when cold, but gets a little jerky when it heats up. The coolant level hasn't dropped (that I've noted) and the exhaust is clear (no white smoke.)
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The switch for my lights have been giving me some issues recently. When I switch it on its turns on all my exterior lights but my dash lights don't come on. If I play with it for a little switching back and forth it will eventually work but it's really annoying.
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Any good way of getting the spline shaft out of the hub? I got the big axle nut off ok.
Normally the CV then just pulls out (inside unbolted, lower control arms (3 bolts) out). This one not moving if air chisel, 5lb sledge hammer.
NEVER had a rusted one (90% of my cars are Audi, not VW).
Do I have to remove the entire hub (including take the strut out) and put on hydraulic press?
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As the title says, car is overheating. Car gets to 190F within a couple miles drive. Temperature fluctuates between 190F and 225F.
Water pump was replaced ~2 months ago. Was not overheating prior. Temp reached 190F and stayed. Currently has the "black top" coolant temp sensor.
I noticed the coolant fans are not running after I turn the ignition off. This time of year they would usually be running after turning the engine off. If car is overheated and with AC off the fans do not run while engine is running.
I used the guide below to try diagnosing the cause: [URL] ....
Remember both fans should come on in slow speed any time the key is on and the AC is on - if the temperature is above about 32 F (0 C). Both fans run with key on and AC on
S180 (fuse 8, 30 amps, green plastic, above battery) must be good for slow speed operation.
Fuse and holder look good: no melting, no discoloration.
S164 (fuse 3, 40 amps, metal strip, above battery) must be good for fast speed operation.
fuse looks good: unbroken.
To ensure the AC circuits and the Fan Control Module has power check:
Fuse 5 on the cabin fuse panel.
Fuse 16 on the cabin fuse panel. When this fuse is blown the radiator fans will often run unexpectedly.
Fuse 25 on the cabin fuse panel.
All three fuses look good: unbroken
For the first test of the slow speed fans from the radiator thermoswitch have the key off.....Both fans should run in slow speed.
Passed test: both fans run slow
The second test is for the fast speed fans, key on, AC off.... Both fans should run in fast speed.
Passed test: both fans run fast
If the fans run in the tests above, then you should be good to go. No further tests are needed.
If you have been seeing high coolant temperatures and the fans have not been running, then you may need a new thermoswitch.
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I got an 02 gti automatic. My low coolant light has been coming on often lately. I checked my coolant level and it was real low. I added coolant and the light didn't come back on. After a few weeks the light came back on. Again I had to add a lot of coolant..I have no leaks though. Where could all this coolant I add be going? I am not over heating or anything. Its like my car is literally drinking this and peeing it out, I have to add some almost every week now for the light to stay off.
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Been having an oil leak issue and found where it is coming from. Now the only issue is that what this is called. I do note believe its the hose but the connection to the hose. I attached a couple of images so that yall can take a look. This is a VW beetle 2006. 2.5 L 5 cylinder.
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