Golf IV / Jetta IV :: Air Conditioning Won't Blow Cold Air
Aug 24, 2014
I have an 01 Jetta 1.8t wolfsburg eddition and the AC won't blow cold air. The AC Clutch does engage when I press the AC button on the control unit The refrigerant pressure is good The fan blows, but its hot air. the condenser is working because the pipe is cold when the ac is running I am curious if any of you know what other possible problems could be causing this. It is currently 100 degrees with 100% humidity
View 11 Replies
Advertisement
Ok here is the issue, my girlfriend owns a MK4 '99 Jetta. Through the search I was able to figure out why she is having so many issues with her door locks and how they can be fixed on the cheap..thats awesome. But here is the problem. She was driving down the road the other day, A/C working...then suddenly it stopped blowing cold. Fan is still working, just blows hot air. She said it started blowing warm suddenly and hasnt been getting warmer through out the past days or anything.
With the hood popped and the a/c on, you can see that the compressor isnt engaging. The car makes a noise like its engaging the compressor, but nothing is happening that I can see visually. Seems as if the compressor is not getting the signal to engage. It sounds like its trying to make the compressor kick on about every 5 seconds or so. Basically that initial clicking sound that your hear RIGHT before the compressor comes on when its working normally.
We have checked the fuses and no luck with those, all look good. Seems like its an electrical issue to me. What this may be? Bad pressure switch? Low pressure in the system? I know the car has had the compressor replaced before...and the clutch seems to spin freely when the car is off.
View 24 Replies
I have a 2003 Santa fe 2.0 diesel which I got 2 weeks ago, but the air con does not blow cold, I suspect that the air conditioning needs re-gassing, my question is how often does the air con need re-gassing on the santa fe, I've had cars before and for a number of years and the sir con always have been fine, I just hope it needs a re-service , are there any common faults with the air cons on a santa fe?
View 1 Replies
The A/C does not blow cold. The Compressor clutch does kick on and stay on The passenger side fan kicks on only (I think the driver side is toast but i need to test it to confirm) The system has 45psi on the low side
I did not check the high side as I don't have a gauge for it but will get one if I need to test that. So my thoughts are that my expansion valve is toast which is what expands the hot liquid and turns it to cool liquid so the A/C gets cold. I think this because it seems all of the other components work.
View 2 Replies
I seem to be having an issue with my air conditioning. I don't think it's an ID-10T error, but it is very peculiar.
My driver side vents blow hot or lukewarm air, however my passenger vents are ice cold. I have the 15 limited, so it does have the "dual" control, and as such I think the issue may be related to that.
Both controls are set to low, max fan, head only, and AC. The "Sync" and "Auto" buttons have no effect.
Any things I can check? I really do not want to bring it into the dealer as they treated me very poorly the last time I came in and my car was out for a month.
View 2 Replies
Here's the story: was on my way downtown last night to get a new suit (I'm in Savannah, GA so it's hot) and AC was working great. The Jetta (2003 AWP) is a stock-everything-1.8T that has never had any AC work done to it from the day I bought it new. I figured it was doing just fine so just leave it alone. Anyway, leave the suit shop (bought a gray three-piece) and go back to the parking lot, start up and get ready to leave, no cold air from the vents. I get it home and do some reading on here and also in the Bentley manual and get into some preliminary troubleshooting. Here's what I have so far:
- Engine running/AC button ON/Blower on "3"/Recirculation OFF/Engine at operating temperature
- Turn blower ON - visually verified that clutch is not engaged and compressor is not spinning
- Shut car off, compressor does turn by hand easily
- With AC button on and blower on, passenger side cooling fan (behind radiator) is ON but driver side cooling fan IS NOT on - I think this indicates a problem from what I've read
- Checked cabin fuses 5, 16, & 25. All have low resistance (good continuity) and are not discolored. Just to make sure I scuffed the contacts with a scotchbrite pad and reinstalled them
- Same deal for the top-of-the-battery power distribution block. All fuses checked okay and were scuffed and reinstalled
- Moved on to the pressure switch/pressure sensor. My vehicle has the 3-pin sensor so jumping contacts is not a possibility. I need to rent/buy a duty cycle meter to check it. Any good tutorial on how to do this? Do I disconnect the connector and check it right at the switch or must I break out the wires and check it in parallel with the connector attached to the sensor?
- I grabbed a flat-head screwdriver and gave the high-pressure and low-pressure service valves a poke and got a good blast of pressure from them so I don't think the system is empty.
- Did a little more reading and found I needed to check voltage at the 3-pin connector on top of the battery power distribution block. I did this with the key ON - no power at any of the pins. Repeated with key ON and engine running with AC button ON and blower ON - still no voltage. For these measurements, the connector was DISCONNECTED. Does this matter? Do I need to have it plugged in to get voltage there (i.e., read the voltage from the rear of the connector with it installed?)
- Finally, and perhaps most enlightening, I suspected I may simply be low on R134a so I bought a can with a pressure gauge on it. Connected it to low-pressure side with engine running, AC button ON, blower on "4", recirculation OFF. The gauge read ~150 PSIG. Yes, this seems high to me too; however, the compressor is still not turning at this point. Does it need to turn to get a good pressure reading from the LP service valve? I recall from everything I read that if pressure is too low, the clutch won't engage, and if pressure is too high, the clutch won't engage
So, as far as I can tell I have a few problems...
1. The driver side fan doesn't run when AC button is ON
2. No voltage at the 3-pin connector on the battery power distribution block Incorrect methods...there is voltage there.
3. Low-pressure side of the AC system is too high Called and checked with a local mechanic...I won't receive correct pressures if the compressor is not turning.
My next steps are to check the voltage at the compressor connector for 12VDC. I suspect I'll get 0V because it's clearly not turning. I'll do this once I can figure out how to get the dang connectors apart without breaking them. 11-year-old heat fatigued plastic is brittle...
Finally got the compressor connector apart.. there is 12VDC on pin 1 and 0VDC on pin 2 (it's a ground, so there shouldn't be..ground continuity check good). Ohmed out the clutch...from what I can tell, that circuit is open. However, I am not 100% sure I was on the contacts because of how the connector is positioned. I'm going to get a dummy connector from a salvage yard and connect it up and make sure I have good contact before I call it a bad clutch.
View 9 Replies
I had just picked my car up from the shop after getting a new 3" downpipe installed (welded to stock cat) and attached to stock catback exhaust. I mention this because I never had this problem before and have already had installed a TIP, boost hose kit, DV, larger intercooler, and breather hose kit, all for a Unitronic Stage 2 tune.
So I go to turn on the A/C and the idle drops to about 400 rpm, almost stalls, interior shudders, vacuum jumps from about 20 to 10 as the engine revs itself a bit, and then it settles back out and the car runs fine (awesome with the new tune) and A/c works great. I have used the A/C a bit since getting all other upgrades done and never had a problem, or I didn't notice, but I'm wondering why a new downpipe would make a difference. I tried turning it on and off a few more times and the same things happened at idle, but after that initial dip and near-stall the engine was just fine around town and on the highway.
View 6 Replies
How many degrees should cool the air conditioning? My Golf 4 has about 14 years and doesn't seem to cool as much as before. Measuring with the probe of a multimeter, the temperature of the air coming through the air vents drops 10 C below ambient temperature. For example at 28 C ambient temperature I can get 18 C through the air vents, but doesn't seem that low. After the air mixes inside you don't really notice a big drop.
View 2 Replies
2001 jetta 4 dr. 2.0 gas
The other day I was driving and the air just quit. No screeches bangs or anything. I checked all the fuses and realized my main fan wasn't working.
I replaced both fans but still no air. When I push the button on the dash for recirculate my brake light on the instrument panel comes on.
View 1 Replies
I have a 2003 Model F150 4x4 that has always ran good for me, and has only had minor issues ever since I've had it. Not too bad considering it has 266,xxx miles on it and running 100 miles a day on the original motor & transmission.
Here's my problem - my air conditioning will only blow thru the defrost. I can hit vent on the control panel and it will blow thru the vents, but if i hit max ac it switches to defrost. It has gotten super hot around here and i really need this to work correctly. I'm not very knowledgeable about this stuff (have worked more on older vehicles) so i guess I'll need a fairly detailed reply if possible. I have looked under the hood looking for messed up vacuum lines but haven't seen any that looked bad.
View 7 Replies
I have a 2003 Model F150 4x4 that has always ran good for me, and has only had minor issues ever since I've had it. Not too bad considering it has 266,xxx miles on it and running 100 miles a day on the original motor & transmission.
Here's my problem - my air conditioning will only blow thru the defrost. I can hit vent on the control panel and it will blow thru the vents, but if i hit max ac it switches to defrost. I live close to Memphis, and it has gotten super hot around here and i really need this to work correctly. I have looked under the hood looking for messed up vacuum lines but haven't seen any that looked bad.
View 1 Replies
I'm at the end of my rope! My 2005 Ford Five Hundred Limited has a constant problem with the A/C system and overheating. In the last year I've replaced the compress, expansion valve, dryer FOUR times. They have replaced the condenser, blower motor, and added Freon, and checked for leaks. It will blow cold when running fast and then blow hot. They have replaced belts pulleys, They have replaced the thermostat, fans, coolant reservoir, hoses. and it still overheats. I've taken it to 4 difference mechanics including two dealerships. No one can seem to fix this problem.
View 9 Replies
Let the car run for roughly 15-20 min still not at full operating temp 90 celuis, and when it is at 90 only blows warm air not hot hot air advice> water pump and timing belt have been done in nov as well as coolant flush.
View 5 Replies
A few months ago, when I used the AC, it would kick in cold for a minute, then blow hot air for three minutes or so... and repeat. I checked into it, and the only error I got was the N42 resistor short to ground code. Looked it up, and it's supposed to be located here:
(#1 in the pic).
Funny thing... Cars with Climatronic don't have that resistor in that location (or at all from the searching I've done... and my blower works fine on all speeds). A week later (after a cold front), the AC worked flawlessly... Through SOWO. Wasn't until earlier last week that I noticed it crapped the bed again. The compressor isn't even kicking on... I haven't had the chance to scan the car again, but I'm going out on a limb to say it's the same error, to a resistor that isn't on our cars...
The compressor seems to work perfectly when it does work... So I'm thinking something's not kicking it on like it should. I'll be checking all fuses/relays tomorrow in the daylight.
View 5 Replies
Air conditioner was acting weird. (It doesn't blow cold air when the car stops at the lights or in the parking lots. But it works great while driving). Then I went to dealer. And they scan my computer. And they said we need to change Aux Fan control unit and also one of the fan .I ordered OEM Aux Fan Control Unit . And I installed it. I connected Vagcom and cleared the Fault code but It still acts same. I checked the fans. They both works fine to me. They run 10 seconds and stops. So I didn't get this part. How the heck this AC works fine while I am driving but it doesn't work when I stop ?
View 7 Replies
My car recently started making strange noises sometimes. Sometimes I hear a whirling sounds coming from the bottom half of the block which I'd hope it isn't the water pump. Also when i start my car and it cranks over, I hear what sounds like a blow off sounds but its not from my diverter valve.
View 5 Replies
Of the 4 vents that blow into the passenger's face in my jetta, only 1 really works. All other vents seem to work well (i.e., windshield defrost, footwell etc) but the ones that blow the heat/AC in your face seem to be affected. the one working vent is the driver's side of the 2 central vents (the ones above the stereo) neither of the 2 for the passenger work, and the one by the Driver's door works a bit.
I've tried opening them with the dial on the dash and closing, but that seems to have little effect. Are there dampers or something that can be adjusted on the inside of the vents?
I've spent some time searching on this one and I mostly found how to replace the heater-core and the blower itself. The blower works as does A/C, that one vent is ice-cold, but the other 3 don't really do anything.
View 1 Replies
Mk4 problem: my interior fan in my Jetta doesn't work on any of the levels, the ac button doesn't work either, and nothing is lit up except the recirculating button.. Resistor?
View 3 Replies
I have a 2003 Jetta GLI. When i turn my a/c on some of the vents blow harder and colder than the others. Why that would be?
View 10 Replies
Let's start from the beginning. 3 months ago, I replaced my oil pan, and since then I've noticed that white smoke would randomly blow out of my exhaust- A couple times when I really got on her, and a few times when sitting idling for 10-15 minutes.
Two days ago, I was driving and about to hop on the highway to make my 40 minute commute home, realized that my temp had gone up about an eighth over 190 (usually stone cold centered)... Watched it for another 2 minutes and the temp was 3/4 of the way to the red, so I pulled over and popped the hood.
The coolant reservoir was COMPLETELY empty, which didn't really make any sense- I had been running my AC all day because it was hot out, but I don't think I was idling with the AC on for too long.
I let her cool off, had a friend bring me some coolant (not much at all) and a TON of water. Filled her up and went home; temp was trying to climb but I wouldn't accelerate too much so she wouldn't go much higher than that eighth over the 190 mark.
Next morning, dropped her off at a mechanic's before work, asked for an oil change, inspection, and to check out this temp issue. These guys told me that they ran a compression test and everything was okay, no leaks or cracks in any hoses so it is a faulty turbo. They also stated that in idle, there seems to be intermittent white smoke out of the exhaust- coolant burning, obviously).
Drove it from them to a spot nearby to let her cool off because I wanted to see if there was more white smoke.. Driving TO the location, I blew A LOT of white smoke on acceleration, I had the heat blasting the entire time so the temp didn't really rise too much.
I'm hoping it's not the turbo, reading up on these issues in here it could be a number of things, but the ONLY reason why I don't want to spend a fortune on replacing the turbo right now is because one or two mechanics i spoke to today said it's not the turbo, but 3 others said it was...
I have no loss of power, no hesitation, and no abnormal sounds from the turbo. Actually, she sounds amazing. I don't however thing it's a head gasket because the dipstick and oil cap aren't milky.
View 24 Replies
My 2005 Jetta gli 220k miles just spurred going down the road now every time I accelerate and get into high Rpms the Ac vents start to blow harder and feels like loss of power. It's fines at idle and first gear but 2nd and up its does it I'm stumped....
View 2 Replies
