Golf IV / Jetta IV :: After Start Up Goes Up To 2000 And Then Dies?
Dec 13, 2015
I just bought this car in it's current state. I got a really good deal on it so I wasn't too concerned that it wouldn't start. And I did a compression test before I bought it which had really good results.
It's starting up pretty effortlessly. and its really consistent how it goes up to 2000, and then dies. I though it might be the immobilizer but the light turns off like it should.
The previous owner claims it was rebuilt 40k miles ago professionally. I think I believe it. the car has 210,000 miles and 190 psi compression.
It also has a bunch of preventative maintenance done to it. waterpump, timing belt, thermostat, clutch, lightweight flywheel. What it could be? it's got to be something simple. I'm pretty sure this engine is nearly flawless
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This is the second time the car has died mid-drive. was getting off an exit on the interstate, popped it into neutral from 5th. suddenly had no power steering/brakes. engine just shut off. pulled over to start it, and engine just turned over. no starting-just the cheerful noise of a cranking engine. nice motorist pulled over and gave me a jump, which worked. The first time was the same story. going into neutral to coast down a hill, and it died. was about to get a jump and it started after sitting for about 10 mins. What is going on here?! fuel filter? pump? I'm at a loss.
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I have a 2004 mk4 GTi 1.8t and this has happened to me a few times now, I came home from work shut my car off and like 2 minutes later went out to go out to eat and before I left my neighborhood I stopped at a stop sign and my car just died wouldn't start back up so I push started it and then stopped again and the same thing so I tried to jump start it nothing happened so I push started my car got it home came home like 2 hours later and my car ran just fine, the second time it happened I was on my way to work and-and I was coming up on a red light and right before my car shut off my oil light came on so I checked my oil and it looks like I had oil and it was never ticking or anything but the first thing I tried was adding oil and it started up right away and today I went to school to drop papers off and when I came back out my car wouldn't start so I just sat there for like 20 minutes and it finally started and then once again on my way home my car died as I was pulling into my driveway.
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2004 PD TDI. been a little hard to start these days, hot or cold, and suddenly dies on me in middle of the road. Tank pump is working, new fuel filter so lots of fuel. Replaced engine speed sensor as there was no tach function. Glow plug light comes on, so ECU has power. Not a hiccup. Don't have the advanced VW diagnostic software, just generic scan tool. No engine codes.
I checked the wiring diagram in my manual and it shows 3 wires to speed sensor, one of which should be ground. getting various resistances across all 3 to ground (measuring through the ecu end of the connector, sensor unplugged), but no direct to ground which seems strange, but I'm not sure I trust the Haynes manual as the colour codes listed aren't the same as in my car - I've got white brown and black, and none show direct ground. Not sure if it matters as it's only a shield anyway.
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Have a 2000 1.8t Jetta that turns over but won't start, What I should be looking into?
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I have a vw jetta 2000 and U checked the check engine light fuse. Just took it out and put it back in. Now the car wont start, it maybe the security ignition cut-out ? Can I reset it myself, or do I have to take it to the dealer?
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Over the past few weeks my 2000 Jetta GL has been occasionally been grinding on start up. The car starts fine, but it sounds like the starter doesn't realize that the engine is running and it makes that oh so lovely grinding noise for an additional half a second or so. It doesn't do it every time, just when it feels like being ornery. Is the starter going, or what?
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2000 GTI MK4 200,000 miles
I have had a grinding noise during engine start up for a few month but had no problem is engine starting up so left the grinding noise problem untouched.
About two days ago both lowbeam headlights blew up and left signal blinker on headlight lamp cluster didn't turn on while rear left blinker blinked at twice faster speed. At the same time I began to have starter motor stall while starting up the engine!
Wonder if this is a problem involving solenoid as well.
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This noise happens usually on the first startup of the day, but it can happen at least 2 or 3 times a day randomly. I am not great with cars but if i had to guess it sounds like a belt is to tight or its a electrical problem but i have no clue. I attached a video of the noise for better in site. Apart from all the looks i get when i start my car up I'm just afraid my engine is gonna blow up on me randomly. The car is a 2000 vw golf automatic.
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I recently bought a 2000 Golf VR6 and I've noticed that my fan to the radiator stays in way too long and think it might be draining my battery. I don't even have to start the engine, once I put my key in the fan starts going. I'm getting really annoyed of having to take the out the fuse to get it to turn off. The battery is brand new so I don't think that's the problem.
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I have a jetta that sat inside for 3 months. and when i went to start it it ran great but when i went to restart after shutting it off it wouldn't restart until I disconnected the battery for a few min and reconnected it , and that is when the check eng light came on the car runs great but having to disconnect the battery each time so I also took it to get the codes read and this is what i got po725, p1780, p1850, po605, po113, po102. I find these codes to be well to say it is a little unbelievable as the car runs fine and i had no trouble before i parked it for 3months. The car only has 58,000 miles on it ?
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I own a 2000 Jetta VR6 5 speed. Car has over 300,xxxkm on it, with documented maintenance including chains within the past 12k. Car has intake, 2.5" resonated exhaust, stock software.
I have recently noticed that the car has a cold start issue. Its winter here in Canada, so in the morning when i go to start the car and let it warm up for a couple minutes, the idle is choppy at first and then evens out at around 900-1k rpm. If i try to blip the throttle, or even hold it (half way or WOT) the car just wants to bog out, EXTREMELY rough idle. It will eventually, after about 2 mins of idling, go away and i can drive.
I have absolutely no issue with allowing the car to idle for a few mins to warm up, but i know for a fact that whether a car is cold or not, it should be able to rev freely.
I also have horrible fuel milage. I use 91 octane, and average about 250-300km per tank. 70% city 30% hwy driving.
The following parts have been replaced in the past 1200 to try and resolve the issue
OE Mass air flow sensor
OE spark plugs
BREMI wires
OE Bosch front O2 sensor
I have scanned the car several times, which led me to change the parts i did. Only had a CEL once and it was for the front O2 sensor which i just replaced. Any other codes were for random multiple and a cat efficiency fault. Again those were fault found off a GFF test done at VW, they were not enough to trigger a CEL, but i still changed the parts.
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My wife drove the car to work, and it ran good. She got a check engine light, but it was not on when I got home from work. I started the car and it idled fine for a couple of minutes and then it stalled. I check the codes and there was nothing locked in. There was a pending coding P0321. I am not sure what a pending code is, but I assume not enough to trigger the check engine light.
After work each night this week I tried troubleshooting but I have not gotten anything accomplished. Each night the car would start fine but if I turned it off it would not start until many tries if at all. It turns over strong but won't start. I drove it around the neighborhood today and it stalled and wouldn't restart.
The fuel pump primes. When the car won't start the fuel pump relay clicks constantly. Is this normal? I replaced the fuel filter because it has been 50k miles. Is the crank shaft sensor the problem? I hate to throw money at parts that aren't the problem when I can't get a code to trip the check engine light.
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Having trouble with my '00 Jetta 2.0 A/T w/ 98K miles. Had the water pump replaced @ a year ago (for the 2nd time, the 1st replacement died after <15K miles.) The car has had issues with rough idle when started, especially with a cold engine, since before the 2nd water pump. I've replaced the coil pack, thermostat, and coolant temperature sensor in the recent past in addition to the water pump & timing belt.
The gas mileage sucks, and when it's idling rough it doesn't "idle up", & will stall if the gas pedal is pressed with 30 secs. of starting. Otherwise it seems to run fine. The coolant temp. sensor was replaced after a CEL indicating it was bad. The CEL went off after it was replaced, but it's now throwing a P1296 Cooling System Malfunction. I have noticed the temperature gauge fluctuates instead of staying around the "middle" since the 2nd water pump replacement, and will run "colder" in colder weather. Since spring is here, the temp. gauge stays around "normal", or the middle.
Some research online says thermostat OR coolant temperature sensor. Since the gauge registers normal now, I'm leaning towards a bad temp. sensor...?
Does the hard start/rough idle and the cooling system malfunction CEL could be related?
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I got 2000 tdi with 270000km on it and have a few issues with it and am looking for some information before i start doing some work to it.
First problem excessive blue smoke on start up also runs ruff tell it warms up.
Second the is a screeching noise on start up some times. happens most of the time when the car is cold.
Third sounds like something is dragging or rattling but i have checked and there is i can see.
Fourth when the clutch is in and the brake is on the car runs ruff at idle. i think it has something to do with vacuum used for the brake booster but not sure.
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So I have a 2.0 jetta and I'm having this problem where my rpms fluctuate at idle and sometimes the car dies unless I give it gas.but when I'm driving if I'm not in gear and stop it sometimes dies.
I'm getting 5 codes : P0445, P0135, P0037, P0418, P1473
I checked all my grounds I changed the 02 sensor on the manifold checked for cut wires and nothing ...
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I'm going to preface this by saying I've already had the immobilizer problem and I know about the light on the dash of the car + key flashing when you try to start the car without the immobilizer chip in the key fob.
My car has been running completely fine, I go out to start it, it fires up then immediately dies. If I hit the throttle while it starts up it will rev up but still dies even if I hold the throttle all the way open. After doing some research I was pointed to crank position sensor. Bought a new one, didn't change anything.
The strange thing about it is ever once in a while I can get it to start up and then it will run for as long as I let it, so its obviously getting air, fuel, and spark. I have also disconnected the battery and left it for a few hours, didn't work either.
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I bought a 03 GTI 1.8T. It was hit in the front so it needs a new bumper. The intercooler is smashed to bits. The car will start and idle but as soon as you go to drive into the shop it wants to stall and die out. Will not drive at all. Would the smashed intercooler cause this? No check engine light at all. Car is a 5 speed. All wheels turn free so nothing is keeping it from not rolling.
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My girlfriend's 2000 Nissan Sentra has about 130k on it. The car has a lot of issues to say the least. The catalytic converter needs to be replaced, the car barely passed inspection, and it periodically stalls out at stop lights and in traffic. Those issues aside, the car has been running well until this week. On monday, the car suddenly died when stopped at a light and the ABS and other lights all went on. Now the car only starts with a jump and will not stay running if the jumper cables are disconnected. Additionally, all of the electronics in the car are nor working. The radio will not work and the windows and power locks barely work.
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So here's whats going on now. My girlfriend has had her car for about 10 months now, and besides the last 3 weeks it has been a perfect car. In these last 3 weeks though her car has been a real pain.
Her car randomly dies while its being driven/at a stop. It doesn't matter how fast she is going or how long she has been at a stop.
It first started 3 weeks ago when i was driving it to the mall with her and the car started to slow down on the freeway, going about 65. I pushed on the accelerator and got no response. After about 5 seconds all power came back and we were off. At no point in time did the power inside or the headlights dim/turn off.
Next time it died it wouldn't get going again. Battery was fine. My first assumption was the fuel pump. Replaced the fuel pump and it ran fine.
A couple days later the car did the exact same thing, except this time the battery was completely shot. Took a look at it and it was almost 8 years old. Went and replaced it.
The following day it died again, this time it was the battery again but since it was a brand new battery we knew it couldn't be the issue. So i went ahead and replaced the alternator. Turned on the car and it ran perfect. While it was running i even disconnected the battery just to make sure the alternator could still power the car, no issues.
A few days went by with everything working perfectly fine, not a single issue that is, until tonight. As my girlfriend was coming to pick me up her car died. She was coming up to a stop light and starting to slow down when her car lost power again. All the lights and radio stayed on but the car died. Battery light came on as well. I walked to her car and told her to try to start it. Fired up right away and ran fine like nothing ever happened. Drove it to my house without another issue.
At this point i'm stumped. The CEL is not coming on, which is a bummer because that would make this much easier. I cleaned off the terminals for the battery and the connecting wires (which weren't dirt or corroded).
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My friends car suddenly quit running while he was on a trip, he went through the carwash and as he pulled out the car died. He had it towed to a shop and they charged him $400 to run a few tests and replace the fuel pump relay thinking it would fix the problem, obviously didn't or i wouldn't be typing this. At this point the car cranks but won't start.
This is what the sheet from the shop says, "retest through PCM to locate problem. Ran diagnostics per flow chart. all power, grounds and G28 engine speed spensor output to ECM test good excepting pin T121/86, wire color Lilac/yellow. Signal between camshaft position sensor to ecm. No voltage signal recommend replace PCM and RETEST."
I've put a used ecm (ecu? i've read both terms used) in and the car cranks, starts, gets to idle and dies. If i give it gas after it starts it'll rev up once, then die. I'll call it progress, but i want this damn car out of my driveway.
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