Golf IV / Jetta IV :: Add Brake Fluid As Level Slightly Low?
Apr 21, 2015
The brake light came on randomly yesterday, flashing foe about 5 seconds, then shut off. Hasn't come on since, but I looked at the brake fluid resovior and the level is about .5cm (.2inches) below the "min" marker.
Can I just open the resovior, pour in the fluid, recap it and go? I remember hearing from someone that if you open the resovior cap at any time, air rushes in and you must bleed the entire system before you can drive again
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I removed my washer fluid reservoir and saw that I can just twist together the wires and it would keep my light off. That lasted a few days. And now the light is on. I tried soldering them to see if it was a bad connection but still the light is still on. How I can get it off?
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What are the odds of the brake fluid being low, and not being indicative of a leak, in my new-to-me 2012 prius two? It's at the "low" line. The dealer said they put all new brakes on it before they sold it to me as pre-owned & certified, so the low fluid level shouldn't be low because of related brake component wear.
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I have an 04 GLI 1.8T 6speed. It is very clear to me that the car has some hydraulic issues. I can't leave the clutch in for more than 10 seconds or it stays on the floor and I have to pull it back up with my foot. So what does this mean? (Besides the fact that I'm a double clutch king now) I couldn't wrap my head around why this was happening and thought at first it may have something to do with a hole in the Slave Cylinder that is allowing air into the lines. Neither confirmed nor denied yet.
My other problem I have is that my car is losing brake fluid at about a quart every 3 weeks. I'm no expert but that is alarmingly fast, and it is getting worse by the month. When driving I get the error message of STOP and my brake light flashes, which is how I know it is low. I can't locate the leak but I do see a drip coming from somewhere behind the drivers side front tire, relatively close to the firewall. I don't know if I have a broken brake fluid line that is dripping down, or if something else could be broken that is causing the leak.
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I only get a brake warning light when it is below 40F and I take a turn. It then goes off by itself. I suspect the brake fluid level sensor may be going off. But when I looked, I didn't see a 'float' sensor.
So today the cold soaked car showed midway between Max-Min. Ok, top it off and drove to parts store only find it was just over Min. Lesson learned, check AFTER driving.
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80km on my accent, the brake pedal was getting softer and brake fluid was a bit low as normal due to brake pads were worn up over time. Brake pads were never changed. I thought changing the pads would change the softness of the brake pedal. I changed the brake pads, left and right, the brake fluid in the reservoir went up as normal but I drove around but the softness of the brake pedal did not change. I still had a little less than half size on the old pads. I need to press the pedal a bit much to feel the brakes. I am wondering maybe the brake pedal was always like that when I bought the car.
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my third brake light, hatch wiper and fluid stuff all don't work. can't really tell if defrost works either but considering the amount of damage they probably don't. there was a hole in one of the grommets leading into the hatch on my gti and they all got wet and damaged. It looks like I barely even have enough room to cut out the damage and be able to replace it with new wiring. is there any kind of product where I could just replace an entire section or no
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Just bought a 2007 supercab with the 5.4 in nice shape, but have an intermittent brake light on the dash. (No ABS, just the brake light.) Our mech. diagnosed a bad Brake Fluid Level switch. I can get a new sensor. I'd like to try and replace this myself and save a lot of money if it's not too difficult.
I'm looking for some clear step-by-step directions on doing this, and have a couple of questions:
Do I need to disconnect the battery first?
Do I need to empty the brake fluid reservoir? (Looks like the sensor is in the bottom of the reservoir, if I take it out without draining res, will I have a mess?)
When looking up the sensor online, I also saw the plug/connector for sale, should I replace that as well?
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About a week after my wreck I got the Parking brake light and the message brake fluid level low. The fluid level is fine and I read some other threads where people said the vacuum system was connected somehow. I knew the ESOF didn't work so I replaced the broken line and nothing changed, except the ESOF works now.
Anyway I can't for the life of me find a replacement sensor, part number or anything.
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So my 2007 Accent/Hatchback started having this weird issue the other day.
My Parking Brake/Low Brake fluid Level Warning Light will coming on while driving and then all the gauges drop down. The light goes off and the gauges come right back up. All this happens within 2-4 seconds maybe. And usual happens maybe once every 6-7 times I drive it so not all the time.
I am driving, not braking so even more confused.
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I started to feel the brakes get spongy. So I pulled the master cylinder forward and turned the 7mm about a half turn. Also noticed the brake fluid level low. I topped it off. Drove down a steep hill....red dash brake light comes on.....plow truck stopped at the base of hill with on coming car. Used emergency brake.
The down side is that I don't have a dry area to pump and check where the leak is. The up side is I have a 2nd car to drive (yaris).....the truck only has 45k miles on it. Where is that area that is prone to leakage on these trucks....... 2004 heritage 4.2 v6 with stick shift.... only 45k miles ....
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Was bleeding my brakes and clutch. Using a power bleeder and it seems as though I put a little too much pressure into the system. The Slave cylinder's green rubber boot filled with brake fluid and began leaking a little. Did I blow a seal? Is this normal with pressure like that? I feel like pushing the clutch in would give more pressure than my little hand pump gives...
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Yesterday the brake warning light came on in my 13 350. I checked, and the fluid level in the master cylinder was at the "min" line. I don't think I've ever had to had brake fluid in any car before. Seems to be Ok today, but I was wondering if other folks have had this happen? Of course if it happens again I'll have to check the brake system. Just wanted to check.
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How since the container is not see-through?
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Where to check my trans fluid level and looking for info on changing the fluid (The process). I'm pretty familiar with mechanics and changing fluids this is just my first time on this car.
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I have an 03 Golf VR6 and only has 76k on it. Ive only had it a week but I have come to notice a couple peculiarities. So first off at night regardless of speed or RPMs, ALL OF MY LIGHTS have a slight flicker. Its not a huge difference, but its definitely noticeable. Engine runs fine. No battery light. Additionally, twice when I go to start it in the morning, after starting the alternator workshop light will kick on. after giving it a tiny bit of gas it goes away and doesn't come back. Everything else seems fine. no check engine lights, no trip meter resetting, and the flickering seems to be sporadically. Tonight I tested the battery and alternator and both tested good. My only thought is that it might be a loose ground. Tomorrow I plan on taking a look at the ground under the battery. I've tried searching the threads here, but Im having trouble finding any relevant info. Also, is the voltage regulator inside the alternator, a separate piece, or in the ecm?
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So I just noticed now that my car is popping slightly at idle occasionally...It doesn't do it all the time and the idle is kinda lumpy but always holds at 800-900. Sometimes it drops a bit lower.
Also when starting it up in the morning, or when the engine is cold it doesnt rev up to 1500rpms it just starts and immediately drops to 800-900??
When I press on the gas and keep the pedal at one spot, say 2000rpms, it slowly drops down to 1500??
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So to start off, its 10 degrees here with a -7 degree windchill. With that in mind, I was driving home just now from dropping off a friend, and noticed my engine temp was slightly about 190. Didn't think much of it, but within a mile down the road the temp was crossing the final line before the red 260 degree line. I pulled over and let it get down to 190 (luckily didn't take long) but in the next 3 miles home it rose again, then fell, and then rose again as I drove through my neighborhood. I'm thinking maybe the thermostat is going bad...? There's no way it went from normal operating temp to almost overheating as cold as it is....
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So I was waiting in line at a drive through, because Fast Food is the breakfast of champions. And suddenly my Oil Light started blinking. It beeped, then blinked. It didn't stay on solid.
So I figured I was suddenly low on oil. I then noticed my engine temp was pegged to the max. So I abandoned my Egg McMuffin (Not an easy choice by the way) and I pulled out of line into a parking spot and shut down my engine.
I gave it a few moments to cool down and checked the oil level. In the past my oil light has come on if I was low on oil and a 1/2 quart or so was all I needed. But after 20 minutes of cooling down, I checked the oil level and it was fine. Not even close to low.
I made some calls, talked to some people, ate a McMuffin and checked the level again. It was still good. So I restarted the car now that it was totally cooled down. It warmed up fine, right to normal temp, no overheating, no oil light and all seemed well. So I drove it home (About 12 miles) without issue.
Also, Prior to this issue (within a couple months) I switched to Synthetic Blend. And it may just be a coincidence, but my AC also failed about 3 days ago.
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I'm trying to adjust the headlights on my Jetta wagon. I know the basic way to go about doing that theoretically, but how to actually adjust the headlights? Are there screws or something somewhere? I also thought I read somewhere that the car automatically adjusts the headlights slightly as your driving? How do I account for that?
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I swapped my fluid and ever since I did that my clutch and brake pedal are pulsing/vibrating only when I start the car. It almost feels like ABS pulsing but on both pedals and the car is obviously stationary.
I followed the procedure from the manual and did all 4 corners and slave.
Brakes work fine/clutch is fine...
I must have done something to upset the BRAKE system?
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