2000 jetta 2.0
I had my a/c checked out as it would not come on nor would my fans come on when the interior a/c switch was pushed and yes the switch lit up.
The mechanic said i needed a new compressor and high pressure switch.
Do I have to have the system evacuated first or can i change out the switch with the system loaded??
I have question about power steering pressure switch in golf 4 1.8t
Idle go high to 2000 rpm .. when i plug-off the Power Steering Pressure Switch its go fine .. i want know is this " Power Steering Pressure Switch " effect stability in high ?
So I think my A/c high pressure switch went out/failed. I came out from a shop and I had just bought 2 new front tires and got them mounted 1 hour prior and I though that I had ran over something. I felt around the passenger tire but didn't find a anything-but there was a hissing noise behind the passenger tire and the air smelled a little funny. So when I got in the car and turned the a/c on nothing happened/No cold air and I had just used the A/c on the way over to the shop. So when I got home I pulled these codes:
00792.Air Conditioner pressure switch F129
01274.Motor for Air Recirculation flap V71
One of the high-pressure lines on the back of the rack, close to the exhaust, has rotted out. It was smoking as it leaked right under the exhaust pipe and burned off. The rest of the freshly filled fluid was all over the ground. I crawled under and got a good look at the high pressure line, but where to source these, and if they are even replaceable? I have not tried to remove it yet, but perhaps a shop could bend a new one as a cheap alternative to a new rack. I was also thinking of checking out the pick n pull for a line.
View 2 RepliesI just had the good fortune of buying a 1988 F250 Diesel (IH 7.3 non turbo) from an older couple - few miles, always garaged and always dealer serviced. It hasnt been driven muvch in the last few years and has only 67K miles.
The air conditioner isnt blowing cold. It was converted to 134a by the dealership in 2000 with all the correct fittings, labels etc - a nice conversion. When I attach a guage to the low side the compressor starts up, the pressure quickly rises to approx 45lbs and what I presume is a high pressure cut off stops the compressor, the system pressure then quickly drops and the compressor restarts. the whole cycle only takes about 15 seconds or so...
I assumed that slow leakage over time had occurred so began by adding a small amount of a combination of 2oz of oil and 2 oz of 134a...I saw no difference in the pressure fluctuations nor the cycle times so shut down the system. There are two valves (needle valves) on both sides of the compressor but they don't look closed.
I'm trying to add some 134 to the AC to see if it will work at all. it slowly stopped last year. I got a charge hose and a can of just 134a. When I attached the hose the gauge pegs on the high pressure side. I know I'm on the low pressure side and the compressor isn't running. It starts and stops. Should the pressure be that high with the compressor not running?
View 2 RepliesI need to replace a cv joint on my mk4 golf and was wondering if I will need to get a front end wheel alignment done once I have completed the job...
View 3 RepliesProbably needs to get, f I had a part number for the A/C high pressure cutoff switch, and the 4 wire connector (2006 MY)? I guess for the 6.0L it is actually called "Dual Function Pressure Switch, DFPS".
Was dealing with some chaffing and wanted to add to my "parts list spreadsheet".
Base numbers:
A/C high pressure cutoff switch: 19D594
A/C cycling switch: 19E561
Found the clutch connector part number: Aftermarket - DD1085
Probably need to call this thread "I hate electrical problems also!"
AC compressor won't kick on at all. I know the system doesn't have much refrigerant (just replaced the line that runs from the expansion valve to the bottom of the drier, the drier itself, and the condenser)..
Evacuated the entire system with a pump. Tried putting refrigerant in and the pressure on the gauge goes up immediately into the yellow/red...jumped the connector on the high pressure switch and the fans came on, shouldn't the compressor kick on too?
Checked the 14 pin connector on the fcm for 12V...PIN number 8 is barely seeing any power which leads to no power getting to the compressor...
The dealer diagnosed my a/c as needing a new compressor and clutch. I had an a/c specialty shop install a remanufactured compressor and clutch. however, they could not get the compressor to kick on. I checked all fuses (all are good).
I checked the compressor continuity (good, 0 ohms). I checked the plug where the compressor clutch plugs in (it reads 12 volts). the funny thing is, it reads 12 volts anytime the engine is running (even if the climatroinc is turned off). I am definitely not an a/c expert and really don't know how this stuff works.
2003 jetta gls 1.8t 5spd - gts stage 1 tune(gonzo stage 2)
tt 2-1/2" downpipe with high flow cat
turbo smart splitter valve(set to divert only)
turbo inlet pipe
homemade intake with k&n filter
stock n75 valve (f)
So in first through 3rd gear my car gets 20psi of boost then at 3,500 ish rpm smoothly starts to lower down to 15psi. but in forth and 5th gear the boost drops faster, enough so the diverter valve actually opens. then the boost will bounce up and down, around 15psi. the car still accelerates but with obvious power loss.
Is my diverter valve not "firm" enough? it is adjustable, so I've tightened it as much as it can. it doesn't seem to change anything. it came with spring spacers to make it tighter, but I haven't tried that yet.
Is it something with the tune? not enough fuel, need bigger injectors? The problem is only at about 100mph, so its not a big deal. I would like to get it straightened out if possible.
In my 2001 2.0, my AC has been blowing hot air for a while now. It was intermittent at first but now is constant.
The compressor runs without going off when the AC is switched on. I can tell because I see the compressor clutch engaged and spinning.
I tested with AC manifold gauges and these are the readings I got.
Engine off : Low is 0, High is 135
Engine on, AC on full blast after running 10 min at 1500 RPM:
Low is 4, High is 135
Looks pretty bad.
I am trying to figure out why my AC is not working. Both fans are coming on and the AC button is light up but it is not blowing cold. The charge was checked and it has a good charge. The compressor appears to not be engaging. I checked for power at the electrical connector for the AC compressor and my voltmeter is showing voltage between 3.1-8.3 volts. It jumps around between that voltage every few seconds. The fuses have all been checked and are in not broken. What else should I be checking?
View 2 Replies2000 jetta 2.0
so far i have replaced 2 fans ; thermal switch in radiator ; ran all the tests i can find ; all fuses and relays seem fine ; jumped compressor and it engages .
key on & car NOT running there is no power to the compressor.
I wanted to check the low pressure switch but every test is for a 2 wire set-up.... mine has 3 wires. which wires do i jump?
I have a 2004 Jetta wagon 2.0. About 2 years ago my compressor was replaced with a used one and the a/c was working perfectly fine. Last year the air from the a/c began to get warmer until it completely stopped blowing any cold air. A couple of weeks ago we checked the freon lines and they had plenty of pressure in them. We also checked the fuses in the car and on top of the battery along with the fan control module. The compressor spins from the serpentine belt but the clutch does not engage and there is no power in the wires going to the compressor. There is power at the high pressure switch but the condenser fan does not come on unless the switch is jumped. Could the culprit be the ambient temperature sensor?
View 9 RepliesOk My Ac doesn't work on my 05 Jetta 2.0 blows hot air. These are the steps taken so far to no avail
_Function test A/C System_ A/C is not cold_ Recover A/C, System was low
_Pressure test system with nitrogen for leaks_No Leaks Found
_Charge system and add dye
_Test operation
_Found compressor not cutting in_ Inspect for ground at compressor_OK
_Test for power at compressor_NO POWER GETTING TO COMPRESSOR
_Inspect fuses_OK
What's going on with this and what the next steps might be?
I have an 02' 2.0 Jetta Wagon, and the A/C is having some issues. Since I know close to nothing about A/C systems, I took it in to a few places to have it looked at. I've had the whole system Evac'd and recharged, and have had the low pressure fitting replaced (apparently there was a slight leak there), and the system is still not working.
The A/C worked fine when I first purchased the car a few months ago. Shortly after my 800 mile trek from Oregon, back to home, the A/C started to only work intermittently. The compressor would engage, then disengage, repeat...It seemed like a bad idea to keep trying to use it in its sad state so I stopped using it altogether. As I said, I had the system emptied and recharged, but it still only works intermittently. It sort of follows a pattern where upon start up it works longer, and switches on and off at shorter intervals, until it doesn't engage at all.
There are no strange noises from the compressor, and when it was hooked up to the machine, it proved to be performing its function well.
Compressor does not engage, and my fans do not come on when I turn on the A/C. They do come on low speed when I jumper pins 1 and 2 on the temp switch plug, but they do not come on high speed when I jumper pins 2 and 3.
I have replaced the FCM with a new one, as well as a guaranteed working used one; neither one changed anything. I assumed right away that it was the fcm because my original one has a hole eaten through it from battery acid.
Compressor clutch ohms out within spec, and it will engage if jumpered.
I have a 2003 2.8 GLI and my compressor clutch will not engaged i provided the clutch with a direct power and ground from the battery and it engaged. i also went to the junk yard and got a couple of Fan Control Module ($4 each) and it still does not engaged.
View 3 RepliesGolf 2.0 ... Finding the location of the AC Clutch/Compressor relay location. On the TDI its behind the the dash and I looked on mine and it doesn't seem to be the same. I've seen a thread where some said it was under the battery? Where it is and what number will be stamped on it. Another thread said it should be behind the dash and number 385 or 358, I looked and I don't have those numbers back there.
View 2 Replies2002.5 VW Jetta GLI VR6 24V 6-Speed. Barely accepts a small can of Freon from full empty, and pressure goes to over 100 psi in the red, compressor does not kick in, idle fluctuates with A/C button on, small fan kicks on fine, some air pump turns on and off with the erratic idle and sounds like shot of compressed air. When I turn the A/C button off, idle comes back to normal and that psss sound is gone. I already changed compressors and that made no difference. Video below.....
View 5 Replies