Golf IV / Jetta IV :: AC Slowing Down / Refrigerant Low
Aug 10, 2014
My AC is slowing down and needed diagnostics. Fan system is fine. So I hooked up my manifold guage set from HF and got 90 on both high and low static, and 35/175 under load. Temp was 83 Fahrenheit with 36% humidity.
My diagnosis - refrigerant low. (i.e. low/low)
So what kind of quantity can I assume I'm down? Do these german ac run on the high side? I'm going to pour in the PAG 46 myself through the yellow line, and that runs roughly 5 to 1 to the refrigerant. NO SEALANT. Just a 12 ounce can of 134a and 3 ounces of PAG 46.
Just to verify - it is PAG 46 for the 2004 Jetta 2.0 GLS?
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My wife's Jetta slows down for a sec or so while driving. I've noticed it when you in 5th gear and just cruising down the road. it almost feels like the brakes are being applied a little for just a sec then it goes away but it will keep doing it every now and then. I cant make it do it. It just does it. I don't know if it would do it in any other gear cause i'm just accelerating and not staying at a constant speed so it might but you cant tell. the car seems to run well. My wife drives it a lot more than me so she complains all the time! gotta get it fixed!
Also, I believe the heater core is leaking. you can smell antifreeze when the heater is running slightly. And she says, but i have not seen this yet that the abs and the other traction light or whatever that are on the dash that has been on since we've bought the car, shut off and the brakes feel like they are not working...that's what she told me so I'm not sure how to explain it but want to mention incase it has something to do with the first prob! they come back on and everything is normal ...well with the brakes anyway.
I have a boost gauge that i want to put on just to make sure it's making boost. it doesn't seem as fast as it did but i don't drive it every day either. the motor is stock with a 2 1/2" exhaust with a 2 chamber Flowmaster from the turbo back so the engine light comes on but i just checked and they codes are for that missing cat
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I have a 02 gti with 1.8t and tiptronic trans. Anyways my gf said she was driving and traction light/battery light came on car started slowing down when she tried to accelerate. Said brakes were stuff to and car shut off..what would cause this. I had a maf code over the weekend i cleared.
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Looking for some hint regarding V6 AUE ? Regardless if engine is warm or cold, sometimes happens to me that during driving, while slowing down and pressing on clutch pedal, revs just drop down to 0 and engine shuts down (vehicle still moving). This usually happens while changing gears from 3rd to 2nd on low speeds in city, or while slowing down to full stop in 2nd gear and pressing clutch pedal.
While this happens, I quickly switch off the ignition and start the engine again, which is tricky and potentially dangerous, since vehicle is still moving but my power steering and brakes are not functioning because of stopped engine.
Some relevant info...I have K&N cone air filter intake and ECU is remapped by BTS Racing (German tuning house).
Car is running and pulling normally. In all other regimes of driving, there are no issues or whatsoever.
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We purchased our 2011 Jetta SE Automatic brand new - first people to drive it - and have had virtually no problems up until this summer. The car has stalled on us dozens of times now and been to two different dealerships for service a handful of times and no one knows what the problem is. We found that the car typically stalls when we're slowing down; however, it recently stalled when we were in Park. When it stalls, the steering wheel locks up, the breaks are nearly impossible to push and everything seems to shut down except the radio. We're virtually a sitting duck for other cars.
When this happens, we're able to put the car back in park, turn it off and back on and drive fine for a while. It seems to be happening more frequently but the dealership hasn't been able to replicate the issue - there are no codes left on the computer and they've literally taken the car apart and can't find anything wrong. They've even 'driven' it for 200 miles and still, nothing. Initially we were told it was bad gas, then we were told it was an operating system update. Now they're trying to tell us that it's our driving style but multiple people in my family have driven the car with the same effect - stalling spontaneously while slowing down, stopping or trying to break.
We've also noticed skipping or slipping between gears when we're at higher speeds but I'm not sure if that's related. It almost feels like your foot falls off the accelerator or slips while you're driving but instead you're actually applying constant pressure.
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Brand new 2012 jetta TDI (less than 1,000 miles). Standard, 6 speed. A few weeks ago, I went to brake, and my pedal went all the way to the floor (no resistance) w/o slowing me down. I let the pedal out (after freaking out a little), and when i went to try again, the brakes kicked in. I was a block from home, so I continued to drive, pulled in to park, and it happened again. Left foot on the clutch, right foot went to brake and went all the way to the floor. Took it straight to the dealer. They checked it, drove it, checked it again. Couldn't find anything.
I've driven about 500 miles since, with no incident. Then, it happened again. My brake pedal literally touched the floor, and didn't even slow me down. I tried pumping. Nothing. Took the pedal all the way out, and then recompressed- worked fine. Drove it to the dealer, happened one more time on the way (had to pull the ebrake to stop).
They have had it 2 days and still can't find anything wrong. I've been driving VWs since I got my license. I've never even owned an automatic, so the whole "maybe you were pressing the clutch instead of the brake" comment is out of the question. What is going on?!
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In stop and go traffic , it happened twice today, I slow down almost to a stop and accelerate, the RPM goes way above 5000, it seems it holds in gear 1 or 2 can't be sure and does not want to shift. I had to shift using paddle shifter. Is this a real problem or am I doing something wrong. ?
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So this has happened multiple times now. its always when I'm slowing down or at a stop. I have Apr stage 3 software with rfd. I ran the car for codes a couple of weeks ago and there were none. its a little scary since its done it at highway speeds when in neutral and the revs have dropped out. I still have ignition/terminal 15 power but the engine is no longer running. today I was at a stop light and the car died out. it took several attempts cranking it over to get it started, I was in busy traffic and it got a little worrisome. also I'm driving my kid around and can't have this happen anymore. Without any faults I'm not sure where to start since I don't have factory software.
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I've got a friend who had a leak repaired on his '98 Chevy S-10 pickup but didn't have the system recharged. I have a vacuum pump and gauges and told him I would pull a vacuum and recharge it for him, but he doesn't know the refrigerant capacity and I don't have manuals on this model. What is the capacity? I'm figuring 1.5-2 lbs but would like to know exactly what's recommended by GM before starting on it so I can tell him how much refrigerant to buy.
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2016 Hyundai Sonata SE
6000 miles, 3 months old
2.4 GDI engine, auto trans
Variable-Displacement Compressor (no clutch, anyway, so that's what I'm assuming)
Is it OKAY to drive the car without refrigerant to circulate lubricating oil, or am I going to be looking at a new compressor in a few years?
A week ago, a grasshopper put a hole in the condenser. Yes, a friggen BUG, complete with bug guts and wings stuck around the tiny dent and pinhole. I'm arguing with Hyundai over the warranty coverage, they say "outside forces" and I'm saying "defective part or crappy engineering"...
The dealer's service writer said there would be no problem driving the car while we wait for parts, as long as we didn't turn the AC on. Okay, it's not summer anymore, but doesn't the compressor want to be on in DEFROST setting? Supposedly the system won't try and turn on the compressor if it's low on charge, but...being a variable displacement compressor with no clutch...
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if I start my car and leave it in park and turn the air on max, on the 1st or 2nd fan setting, I usually get no cold air, its just normal temperature. if I begin to drive for a bit the air turns cold, then if I stop and park, the air usually stays cool sometimes.
however, last week we had a heatwave here in SoCal and it was around 100 or so, and my car was outside for a while. I started it up and the air was not blowing cold for quite some time, I had to drive for a while to get it going.
I drive mostly on the highway and my A/C works fine but I noticed hiccups like these here and there and want to know if its something I should look into before it gets worse
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My 01 excursion is leaking refrigerant. Added UV dye, and still can't find leak. It takes about 5-7 days to lose charge.
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My anti-lock brakes keep activating when i am slowing down from a speed above 10 mph once i reach a mphh. I have just installed koni sports on the front and bg springs all around with 20mm wheels spacers in the rear. The sound is coming from the driver side wheel and i can feel the brake pedal reacting in the way it does when the anti-lock brakes are activating. I haven't had a chance to take the wheel back of and check the sensors and wires.
It makes a grinding and popping kind of noise, which again remind me of anti-lock brakes.
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I'm replacing the compressor and accumulator on my Explorer. I'm having the shop evacuate the system, but they want to fill it with R134, so I'd rather use the cans if I can find out how many ounces it needs. I'm seeing conflicting information on the refrigerant capacity for the 94. Is there an authoritative source, like the factory service manual?
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So as the title states I'm getting a rear whine sounds more like a dump truck slowing down, anytime I go over 45 mph. I have an appointment tomorrow morning with VW to get it diagnosed and hopefully fixed.
I've checked and properly inflated my tires and there is still decent tread left. As far as I've seen it could be the rear diff or harmonic balancer.
I recently got my car tuned (apr stg I) and I'm lowered on neuspeed race springs with matched bilsteins. I doubt either of those would have any impact on my issue though.
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2002 1500 4WD 126K miles. A/C not working, compressor does not engage when A/C is switched on. Is there an interlock if the refrigerant level is too low to keep the compressor from engaging? Original owner, A/C has never been recharged. Is recharging my best first step.
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2004 Santa Fe, 130k, auto, 2.4L engine, FWD
Bought this car during the winter and didn't need to use the air conditioning until recently, which as you could guess blows warm. Filled up with R134a and all was good for a few days, nice and cold.
Then after about 5 days it was blowing warm again. About half of the refrigerant had leaked out. Looked like the schrader valve/valve core was leaking on the low side so pulled it out and put in a new one. Filled up with new refrigerant, same thing... lasted a few days and now warm air again.
Is there a common spot for leaks on this model? I know I need to get a can of r134 with dye in it to try and find the leak, but I heard it can be the evap core which you can't see openly. Do the hoses normally leak? should I replace all the O-rings, etc?
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Started working on the salvage W12 today and I need to remove the bent radiator and AC condenser. The AC refrigerant system is already low per the VCDS system (no surprise, the condenser has an imprint of the VW logo in it ) so I'm going to disconnect the lines from the condenser. Since I'm not going to put a new condenser in until I'm done with the rest of the work, I need to know how to plug the two refrigerant lines in a way to not contaminate the rest of the system. Are some rubber plugs over the connectors going to do it or is there a better way?
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Since then I have added some refrigerant, changed the Magnetic Clutch Relay. Fan kicks on only for a few seconds and then goes off. Pressure shows that it might be a little high on refrigerant. Could this be so that it would not allow the fan to turn on and stay on. when I let some refrigerant out it seems that it will kick on and stay on. I have not let any more out because to me this really does not make sense to me, hence why I am asking some more questions.
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04 F350 TD AC stopped cooling.
Compressor engages
Static pressure is ZERO
Running pressures are close to ZERO
Apparently I have lost refrigerant, but I see no signs of leaking (oil) and vacuum is holding at 30.
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The AC on our '04 RX330 has started acting up. Refrigerant level is fine. When the system works it's ice cold. It'll run more often than not, but occasionally the AC compressor just won't kick on. I searched the forum and found issues in other toyotas and lexus models with the magnetic clutch relay but for the life of me I can't find where that is on the RX. I also saw reference to an AC "servo" in another thread. What controls the AC compressor and what to check?
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