Golf IV / Jetta IV :: AC Not Working - Pipes That Go To Evaporator Stay Warm
Jul 12, 2016
My AC is not working. I just tried to put in some freon and it did nothing for me. Hopefully this doesn't make matters worse, I'm finding that it may have..
From what I can tell everything is working fine except the pipes at the firewall that go to the evaporator stay warm and don't cool at all after ten minutes.
The clutch is engaging when the AC button is pressed and stays on fine.
I found this thread : [URL] .....
about the blend door, that could be it haven't checked yet but does it suggest that the condenser isn't working since the pipes don't get cold?
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Recently I started leaking coolant on the driver side area to the right of the engine:
I am assuming I need to replace some part/tubing that has a leak in it, but I am not sure what any of these things are called. How to identify what leaking part here is?
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My wife's 2000 Jeep Cherokee has a failing A/C system. Last year it was blowing warm air in the middle of the summer so I took it to a local mechanic who recharged the freon and it was fine through the rest of the summer. This year it is blowing warm again so we took it in for another recharge and it only lasted a few days. The mechanic said there is a leak at the evaporator coil(?) He said the entire dash needs to be removed to repair and it would run about $1000 to fix. This seems a bit steep. Any thoughts or experience with this issue?
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So I am at a loss. My gti starts and runs great, but not for long its like the fuel just cuts off. It won't stay running long enough for the computer to even pop a code...
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2005 1.8t gti. so my left blinker bulb went out and it was acting normally for a burnt bulb but then my right blinker started to randomly come on and stay on, my blinker arrow on my dash will stay on but very dimly and when i go over bumps it will click on and off and sometimes stay on then shut off when i go over another bump.
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The coolant gauge jumps from 0 to 190, comes down to 0, stays at 1/4 the way down... jumps to 190, sometimes stays at 190, sometimes stays at 0. All this while driving. I was thinking it could be the temperature sensor since it's not a green top? I also read there are other parts like the sender that could be the problem. I have been trying to find similar problems and was unlucky.
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My girlfriend's 2005 Jetta has started intermittently leaving its lights on after she locks the car. It seems to happen with the fob OR with the keys in the lock. It started a few weeks ago with just the left rear turn signal. Now it is starting to do all four corners and the repeater on the front fenders.
The lights don't blink, they stay on solid usually after doing the normal "lock blink" and noise. This obviously drains the battery so we've had to jump it a few times.
How to fix this? To me it is obviously something electronic, but I didn't know if I should look to replace relays/fuses/wires/etc.
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I am trying to take my stock headers and flex pipe out, I have removed the all the bolts but cant seem to get the pipes out between small space between the subframe and the firewall. how to drop the subframe to get these pipes out?
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When my car is at idle or cruising the AC works well. When I'm driving normally from stop light to stop light the AC gets warm.
I did have the pressures checked and they topped off the refrigerant. They also said the compressor is working well. I had all this checked before it started getting warm during accelerating.
Are there some things that I can look at?
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99 Jetta, installed a new AC compressor a month ago, has been working great, not clutch will engage for a few moments, then turn off for a minute, then engage again. Seems, like there is Freon in there by the gauge on the low side.
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I hit a pillar with the driver side door and it bent a bit and now the open door alarm stays on while I drive and its even worse when the lights are turned on, how do I disconnect the door open alarm?
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When the weather gets cold, (lower than 45 deg. F) my Jetta does not want to stay running. It turns over and starts just fine but it does not like to stay on. When I turn the key to the #2 position I can hear the fuel pump fire up and pressurize the system. I always attempt to start it after that, and after 1-2 seconds of running, it seems like it chokes itself out. I have the new coolant temp. sensor (green top), my MAF has been replaced, all spark plugs are new with the correct gap (approx. .030"), new air filter, I run 93 octane fuel.
The worst part is, once the car is warmed up (After forcing it fuel and starting it over, and over, and over again) it runs awesome! I have had this problem since I bought the car (about 2 years ago). The owner told me about it and mentioned that he has never been able to figure it out either (trips to the dealer included). I have been dealing with it for 2 years, but it is getting much worse. Over the past 2 days I have not been able to get my car to stay on long enough to get it to move.
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I have a 2001 jetta 1.8 turbo. when I turn the car off the cooling fans stay on and kill my battery. Ive been told it could either be a relay or temp sending unit but i dont know what one to tackle first, also my coolent temp stays way low almost as if the thermostat is stuck open.
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Is there any good product recommendations to clean the caked on carbon build up on the exhaust pipes? I want these pristine shiny again.
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Mmkay.. 2000 GTI VR6.. Will start initially, when engine is cold (sat overnight, or through the work day) but once the engine is at normal running temp, if you shut it off, it wont start. Acts like its out of gas.. have to "prime" and keep hitting the gas pedal while cranking, to (sometimes) get it to start when warm, and then it runs like crap until I get a few miles down the road.
Brand new plugs and wires, and just this evening, pulled a plug, and its obviously fouled, and covered with unburnt gas. Coil Pack maybe?
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I swapped transmissions in an 01 vr6 glx automatic car. The car will start and run perfectly until it reaches operating temperature. Once it hits 190 f it shuts down and will only start again if u wait a few minutes. It has me stumped. I have unpluged the coolant temp sensor, and Have checked for vacuum leaks and loose connections but no luck.
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I've got a 2004 wagon and occasionally, when it's warmed up, if I shut it off it's hard to start again. When I turn the key it fires up, but when I release the starter it dies, like I've shut the car off. Giving it throttle makes no difference. I have to do this several times, and then it keeps running. Never does it cold. No codes.
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Low ac line is cold
Fans kick on
Compressor clutch kicks on and spins with pulley till I turn ac button off
Added r134
Changed pressure switch
Changed ambient temp sensor
Car is just manual ac control and car blows at 80 degrees.what else could it be?cars 02 gti 1.8t
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Heat blows warm at best and A/C isn't all that cold. I want to believe its a blend door issue and dive into it this weekend and fix it but there isn't a single piece of foam coming out of any of the vents. Of all the systems on the car, HVAC isn't my cup of tea I don't know anything about it. What else could be the problem? I can live without A/C but the heat things must be fixed.
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So i just had my R32 at the stealership to get my AC recharged. Ever since ive noticed that my AC doesn't always blow cold. It will vary from cold to warm and back to cold then warm. Im not even sure what to start looking for as the issue
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I have a 99.5 golf gls with an 02' engine in it. 5 Speed, neuspeed supercharged with a bunch of other stuff done to it.
I've had this issue as long as I've owned the car (3-4 years). Starting the car cold, it usually fires right up and can drive it e, no problem. However, when I get the car up to operating temp and turn the car off, if I immediately try and restart the car it either :
A.) chokes but will fire or
B.) will have a long crank and usually starts hard.
Another thing I noticed is that at low RPM right after the clutch has been engaged, the car seems to almost hesitate like something is holding it back, even if I give it more gas. I have checked my codes with Vag com and the only CEL I have it for not having a post cat o2 sensor (picks up that the heater circuit is unplugged). I also have run some diagnostics on my fuel trim and both long and short term fuel trim are within spec. I tested two different mafs and both were around 2.5g/s at idle. Checked for vac leaks and didn't have any.
I have read that a dead/dying crank sensor can give me the symptoms I have, but I seem to be lacking a symptom where the CEL is on for the sensor, and my car doesn't randomly die when driving. So my question is, have any of you had the same symptoms but no CEL?
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